Farleigh Hungerford Castle, a partially ruined fortified manor, is situated just 9 miles from Bath and close to the River Frome in Somerset, and has an incredible but pretty grisly history. Belonging to the powerful and influential Hungerford family for some 300 years, the castle has seen murder, 'dark' practices, scandal and civil war. It is now under the care of English Heritage.
We arrived early and used our English Heritage membership to enter the grounds, there is usually a charge so please check their website for up-to-date costs and events. There is a free (with ticket/membership) dedicated carpark on site (BA2 7RS).
The grounds are reputedly haunted by Lady Agnes Hungerford, who was arrested, charged and hung at Tyburn in 1523, for the murder of her first husband, John Cotell. It is understood that Agnes had her husband strangled (or did the deed herself after administering poison) and burnt in the manor's oven. She was also accused of practicing 'dark' arts such as necromancy. According to many, Agnes' ghost still remains close to the chapel, many 'ghost hunters' have tried to capture the lady but have failed. Her step son, Walter Hungerford, had three wives, two disappeared and were never heard of again and the third was locked into the Lady Tower and left to die under Walter's orders, she stayed alive by drinking urine and receiving titbits of food from servants. Eventually she managed to get a letter out begging Thomas Cromwell for help, the Hungerford's had foolishly aligned themselves with the ill fated Cromwell. He did not care and sent no aid to the suffering woman. Not long after, Cromwell and Walter fell out of favour with the crown and was tried and executed for treason and 'unnatural vices' (sorcery, satanic behaviours and b*ggery). Lady Hungerford survived her brutal captivity, remarried and had five children. The Hungerford's were not all gruesome individuals some were very influential, and helped shape British History. The architect of the castle, Thomas de Hungerford, was the first speaker in the house of commons and his son, was knighted by Henry iv and fought at Agincourt.
St Leonard the 15th Century chapel, is spectacular. A vibrant 15th Century wall painting of George and the Dragon is still displayed as if painted yesterday, along with many other Hungerford related adornments. The font , salvaged from an earlier chapel, sits proudly in the middle. The unusual stain glass windows and family tombs gives the chapel a museum-like quality.
However, the priest house, which is in excellent condition considering the turmoil, misfortune and civil war this castle has endured, is now acting as a small museum, showcasing what had been found on site during excavations.
We particularly liked the crypt, which is underneath the chapel and houses the best collection of lead lined, human shaped coffins in Britain. The coffins contain the embalmed remains of two children and four adults, all of the Hungerford family. The faces of the deceased are moulded into the lead, the death masks give a grisly but insightful glimpse into the faces of this family.
We had such a great day, trying to piece together all the changes this castle had gone through. It has seen so much, most of it awful but also some moments of grandeur and beauty. The artifacts that remain illustrates the riches and excellence of the day, and the ruined fortifications highlights the brilliance of people and what they were capable of.
‪@ramblingracheltrailtales‬ a mention for you as we visit this epic location!
Thank you for being here, all the best, Ceri & Kat!
/ teainvalhalla
/ teainvalhalla