In many lightcontrollers LEDs do have either a common plus or a common minus, and this is, what is probably difficult to understand. If they would make only one spot for all common + and one spot for each - of each LED, it would be less confusing.

Also love 2nd gear. Watch out for my Orlandoo trailer build video, will be up soon. It has 33 SMD LEDs and I will explain how to solder, mount and connect them

@donaldsneffe can I PayPal you and you make me a 2 red tail light and reverse white light harness?

Yes - but this was not yet available at the time of this video. Meanwhile there are also a couple of different boards coming with the trucks... this board is from the first version released.

Thank you. Motor connector is JST PH 2.0, battery balance connector is JST XH 2.54 mm, Servos are JST GH 1.25, I am 100% sure, but those are also sold under other names (Molex Pico etc.), all will fit (micro connector 1.25 mm 2-pin, 3-pin etc. on Ebay). For the battery power connectors ("Micro-Losi", "Walkera", "Syma", "Nine Eagles") with 2 mm pin distance tons of names are used, I guess the (or a) correct name is Molex 51006 and 51005 for the two connectors, male and female. Some dealers (Amazon, etc.) sell 1.25 mm under wrong names (mostly mix up GH 1.25 and ZH 1.5). I do have tons of those connectors here, for crimping (JST SH 1.0, GH 1.25, ZH 1.5, PH 2.0) and use those for nearly 15 years now in micro helis, planes and cars. JST GH1.25, Molex Picoblade... seem to differ in details (JST and Molex are two different companies), but they will always fit. Most of the GH1.25 I bought (from Ali, Ebay, Hobbyking) are probably not even JST or Molex, but some generic connectors. Maybe you have bought JST ZH (1.5 mm) under the wrong name JST GH (1.25 mm)? I always rely on "mm" when I buy (1.0, 1.25, 1.5, 2.0) and not on the names JST SH, GH, ZH, PH - because dealers quite often name those wrong.

Ah, ok, thank you! But the polarity is vice versa...?

@@donaldsneffe I think it is the same polarity as the original front connection, I connected the two, the rear position lights and they come on when the headlights are turned on, so I think it is the same polarity.

@@martinianofabrizio5870 Hmm... I tested it (even in this video?), and am sure that at least in my version it was reversed. Maybe they changed. I had to change the polarity in the 2-pin plug to make it work (easy to do). There are a lot of small changes in those small FMS FCX24 and Basher, without any notifications (v1 radio with 2 or 3 pos, v2 radio, v3 radio, plastic and metal gears, full ball bearings and only partly). Even in the CR-18Ps (same radio) there is a change in the light controller between Rock Van and T-Hunter (Rock Van can switch off turning lights, light controller of T-Hunter cannot).

@@donaldsneffe sorry for the delay of my response. Unfortunately I don't have another one to check if the polarities are different, but it's great that you were able to configure it. As for the turn signal lights, I still haven't been able to configure them, I reckon I'll try these days. I have not yet checked if the gears are metallic, I think not, but I will also check later.

Saw it, it was MiniRC. Yes, pretty cool ;-) However, my FCX24 (as all newer ones?) does only have 2 positions on CH3, so you cannot use this for steering the rear axle (need at least 3 positions). Different transmitter with 4WS would be the way to go, with "real 4WS" then (proportional, rear, crab, 4ws). But the stock ESC of the FCX24 is really super good, I think even better than SCX24 v2, and totally silent... and dragbrake force changeable via radio... so hard not to use the stock FCX24 elecronics (because they work very good). BTW: Receiver/ESC/lightcontroller unit is identical to that of the 1/12 Suzuki Jimny.

@@donaldsneffe I have 2 FCX24s. I bought them right away, so they have the 3 position toggle. What they do not have is the metal portal gears and my understanding is that when FMS first started shipping them, as an upgrade, the 14 tooth gear is 12 tooth and causes some problems. So, I am waiting to buy a couple of sets. I totally agree that true proportional steering would be better. I just thought that guy's work was creative and a nice work around using stock components. Loved your light testing. I have no idea how to get enough 3mm lights mounted around it though to take advantage of the controller (turn signals in particular). I am sure someone will find a way... ;)

@@gamingstokr7299 Yes, I also think it is a good ideal. Remember people making this kind of 4-wheel steering with the SCX24 (v1 radio). My (metal) stock portal gears are 12/21 t. Are there any troubles? Did not hear about this so far. Mine seem to work fine so far. Lights? Why only 3 mm? 3 mm, 4 mm, 5 mm, 1.8 mm, SMD LEDs... Rollcage-lightbar, bumper lights, rock lights, maybe brake lights (on the cage?). Guess no one needs turning lights here. But I am sure people will also use different bodies (longer wheelbase)... maybe 1/16... Mogrich has about the same wheelbase but is not as wide... which accept more lights incl. blinkers.

@@gamingstokr7299 contact FMS they will send you portal gears free. They sent me some and they were the correct 14 tooth.

Thanks. For me it is not that confusing, but guess for the viewers it is.

@@donaldsneffe totally understand it it's a hell of a lot easier if you have the patience to do all this but this is definitely not for beginners 😁 ( I'm not Btw )

The plug (metal part inside) is probably broken off or the wire has come out? Not an easy fix. Either buy contacts and crimp (need special crimping tool) or buy a JST GH 1.25 mm plug with wires, cut the old connector and solder the wire (with connector) to the cable of the lights. Check polarity! You could also use the small 2-pin connector (see video, you'll have to change polarity). You can pull out the 2 wires of the 2-pin connector and insert them into the 3-pin connector, or use 2-pin (with swapped polarity) on the "fog light place". Do not forget to insulate the wires of the 3-pin connector, if you do so. Dupont - JST GH (Molex) 1.25 Adapter? Crimping is the easiest way, if you cannot crimp JST 1.25, you probably can crimp DuPont (easy with every crimping tool). Buy JST 1.25 with wire and crimp DuPont to it. Probably there are adapters out there, but hard to find. Here, this Hobbyking adapter, ... buy is Y and 3-wire... you could adapt it (cut one part of the y). hobbyking.com/de_de/jst-molex-1-25mm-male-to-2-x-jr-female-1pc.html?affiliate_code=PREBYDYCUEBOAHL&_asc=989667413 If you buy adapters, always check polarity! And do not forget to insulate open ends.

@@donaldsneffe he metal parts are stuck inside the plastic connector can’t put the cable back or don’t know how plus how do I find polarity? all cables are black

@@TheAlxzHouz You have to pull out the metal parts (lift the lip on the connector with a needle, tiny flat screwdriver, fine forceps). But you will need a new connector anyway... (or crimping, what is difficult). Easiest: pull the connectors out of the 2-pin and insert those into the 3-pin and you are good (insulate the other wires). Polarity: Simply test, in LEDs wrong polarity will not destroy the LED, it will simply not work (THIS IS ONLY FOR LEDS!!! IN SERVO PLUGS YOU MUST PLUG IN IN CORRECT POLARITY (at least red), OTHERWISE YOU WILL DESTROY SERVO/BOARD). Plug in, if LEDs work, ok, if not, swap the 2 wires. Since "metal parts" are still in, you know which 2 out of the 3 positions you will have to use, best mark them on the plastic housing before removing).

@@donaldsneffe thank you but still didn’t tell you while I was messing with the wires trying to extend the 3 pin connector cable I pulled off the 2 pin cable like ripped it off … now it’s just 2 naked cables ?! Still have the connectors but I can’t reuse them?

@@TheAlxzHouz If there is still some wire on the 2-pin you can reuse it. Otherwise (assume you cannot crimp the tiny connectors) buy a 3-pin or a 2-pin. 3-pin: remove one wire, solder the other 2 to the cable to LED, 2-pin: pull the metal parts out of the housing, solder wires to the LED-wire, and plug them into the 3-pin. Search on Amazon, Ali, Ebay... for JST GH 1.25 mm (or Molex), even your local Hobbyshop should have those, those connectors are used for the small 1s Eflite UMX planes for example, and for many tiny drones...

Well, you will have to exchange electronics, receiver, radio, ESC and lightcontroller.

K5 unfortunately does have a different type of the receiver unit, without free plugs. Plugs are 1.25 mm (JST GH), not 1.5 (JST ZH). Red LEDs will not work in parallel with the white front LEDs, you could try to connect white LEDs in parallel (and maybe paint the light bulb red).

Seems the unused plug on the wiring loom will power the red led`s, i tried it today and lights up@@donaldsneffe

@@rctraildriversuk-lone-wolfvide No, I do not think so. This would be unusal, guess they did it because the 2-pin is used in the trucks with rx with few light-inputs (e.g. K5), and the 3-pin with trucks with the rx with numerous light inputs (e.g. my first generation Power Wagon). Not sure - I did test it in my Power Wagon and it lit up the white LEDs (but reversed polarity). But maybe you are right, normally red and white LEDs won't work in parallel - maybe the strands include different resistors. If it really works (white and red LEDs in parallel) I recommend to test the red LEDs before installing those... so let it lit up for some minutes and check if they run hot.

i could not risk putting multimeter on the spare plug for fear of shorting out so i pushed wires from red 3mm led into plug after taking a "good" guess on polarity and it came on with front lights, left it on for maybe 11/2 mins then switched on and of a good few times and all was well, so ordered some 1.5mm 3 pin JST to wire it correct, it seemed the led was not as bright as it would of been plugged into lipo pack @@donaldsneffe

@@rctraildriversuk-lone-wolfvide ok, red and white work in parallel? Surprising. Light plugs are 1.25 mm (GH), not 1.5 mm (ZH).

No, because the EazyRC board does not have a channel 2 (Throttle) out. You will need a receiver, an ESC and a light controller. The only RtR micro receiver units which can do this are SCX24 v1 (old) and Panda Hobby (at least my Tetra K1 1/18, I do not have a 1/24 Panda and do not know if it has a ch2 out). All others do not have a channel 2 out port.

@@donaldsneffe if I use the scx24 esc then it could work too use the eazy RC esc as a light controller? Would you solder a jst to the servo connector on the eazy RC? Then plug into ch2 of the scx24 esc?

@@plukensteinpaint No, you cannot use the EazyRC lightcontroller with the SCX24 receiver/ESC. You would have to use 2 radios then, the SCX24 radio for servo and ESC and the EazyRC only for the lightcontroller (or lightcontroller and servo, and SCX24 receiver only for ESC).

The correct name of the plugs is JST GH 1.25 mm (Molex), 2 pin, 3 pin, 4 pin. You will find them on eBay.com or AliExpress. Search for JST GH connectors, tons of results, with or without wires, super cheap.

@@donaldsneffe thank you so much. Your videos have been very helpful with multiple rigs ! Keep the videos coming . Cheers!

Der Lightcontroller regelt, brauchst keinen Widerstand reintun. Keine Ahnung ehrlich, warum da einer drinnen ist (hab es im Video gesagt), hab die Tests ohne Widerstände gemacht und die LEDs auch "ewig" an gelassen, kein Problem.

No, it is GH 1.25 mm. ZH 1.5 mm are for example Flysky micro receivers AFHDS3 and ANT and flybarless systems for helis. I am 100% sure. Hobby Plus CR-18P radio is also the same. But there is a new radio (v3) for the new FCX24s, without the red tabs for switching. It also has a new type of receiver. Do not have this, so cannot say for sure which plugs those new ones have. The "old" Flysky FS-MG41, which comes with the old FCX24 and Smasher and Hobby Plus CR-18P has 100sure JST ZH 1.25 mm plugs for serfos and a JST PH 2.0 mm plug for the motor

@@donaldsneffe Thank you Donald. FMS sent me what appears to be a V1 with the red rockers to replace my deffective V2 ESC. My replacement ESC looks exactly like yours at the 12 second mark. So I would need a JST ZH1.25 for the servo out ports then?

@@bigworm1384 Yes and no ;-) , 1.25 is JST GH - and this is correct. (JST ZH is 1.5 mm). You need 1.25 mm 2-pin, 3-pin and 4-pin plugs for the servos and lights, correct name is JST GH (often also called Molex Pico). I am 100% sure. JST SH 1.0 mm, JST GH 1.25 mm, JST ZH 1.5 mm, JST PH 2.0 mm (motor), JST XH 2.54 mm (balancer plugs), JST "Losi mini, Walkera, Syma" battery of FCX24.

@@donaldsneffe Thank you again. Im more confused than I was...Im sorry! Ugh, why cant they just give us normal servo ports. My god this is so complicated. You mentioned the following. "No, it is GH 1.25 mm. ZH 1.5 mm are for example Flysky micro receivers AFHDS3 and ANT" Ok. I hear you. But the FS-R4A1 is a flysky brand ANT receiver. So while I hear what you are saying. Im also confused at this contradiction. Anyhow, I sincerely appreciate your help. I love your informative posts. Most helpful and appreciated. Thank you for your time. See you around!

@@bigworm1384 Ah, ok - now i understand. Sorry and yes, you are right, this is also a ANT receiver, but unfortunately does not bind to other Flysky ANT radios. I meant a "normal receiver" for a non RtR radio. The ANT micro receiver I meant was the FS-R4M, which has 1.5 mm GH (and the AFHDS3 Flysky GMR, like and use both a lot in my micros).

Yes, this is not difficult. Only a contact problem in wires or plugs. Do you have a soldering iron, shrink tube or at least electrical tape? You'd have to check where the loose contact is, could be plug/board, or plug/wire or at the branching position of the wires. Did you say that always at least one light works? If this is the fact, than it is even easier. Because the two LEDs have the connection to the board in common (parallel), this means the plug - board connection must be ok. Otherwise both lights would not work. So check the branching area of the wires. If you press/squeeze those, both lights should work then. That way you can identify the "problem branch". Maybe only squeezing/bending does already solve the problem (not a perfect solution), but better remove the isolation (shrink tube) and check the soldering area, probably broken... you'd have to resolder it, if you cannot solder, connect it in any way (MacGyver will show you, silver paper, piece of wire without isolation, ...) and isolate again (shrink tube, ... electrical tape). If you have appropriate tools this is an easy operation. But if both lights do not work at the same time, the problem could also be in the plug (wire - plug or plug - board).

@@donaldsneffe thank you for your reply. I am also getting jittery back and forth motion from the steering servo even when not touching the remote. When I went to test your idea of pinching the wires the lights now don't light up at all. Do you think the problems are related? Could it be an ESC problem?

@@ZachTrumble I do not think the problems are related. I am quite sure a contact of the light plug has come off/is broken This is a quite easy repair... take it off, remove shrink tube and check it. Try to rebind and see if the servo still does this. There can be numerous reasons, from broken servo to broken board (unlikely), missettings, ... very difficult to say from here. I assume you do not have another servo to test (with 1,25 mm plug ;-) ).

@@donaldsneffe thanks for the help. You were right two of the wires were broken. Now that I have removed the shrink tube I need to redo the wiring. Two questions, can I remove the 2 prong plug that doesn't seem to do anything? There is also a small resistor in the wiring. I assume that needs to stay in there?

@@donaldsneffe thank you so much for the help! I got it working. So much cooler with the lights! Thanks again!