Timestamps Close look at the links: 2:00 Baseline course run: 5:57 Installation: 8:47 Finished product: 13:40 Upgraded course runs: 16:51 Initial reactions and final thoughts: 18:13

Those really seemed to do the trick! Amazing climbing ability! Nice video yet again Adam, thanks for taking the time to do this! Take care!!!

Wow hells gate was crazy with the extra length.we are getting ours next week,and i'm kinda glad i waited for the upgrade metal gears.Awesome build, looks bullet proof.thanks for inspiration.yeah chase that flex.i would liks to see abit more if we can get metal extensions to finish out look and performance...awesome build love it

You can drill out the extension arms that bolt to the chassis and put a pivotball in and you will have flex

That was a worthy upgrade thanks for sharing

Ok great video. I have had those links in my bin since he first started making them. I have been reluctant to install them for the reasons you highlighted. You have changed my mind. I will put them on a weight loss program with the dremel. Be sure and order all the other drive gears. Now we can get everything metal.

How cool is that. Looks great, awsome 👍🏻

Awesome video 👍 I definitely tried to go for improved looks, climbing and high speed handling. Also keeping the stock amount of flex while bolting on to anyone's stock truck. I've never heard of anyone breaking them either. And if you manage to break them I support what your doing 100% and will send you replacements and extras 😂 I favored the screws over ball pivots as the FCX doesnt have captured ball pivots like an SCX24.

It has a real need to be stretched, not to have a stretched look but to finally have a proper look. A couple more subjective cons I see is the result of mismatched links and the misplaced shocks. I think I could get use to the comical stubbyness of it sooner than the shocks being that far out of position. I would also bet that a metal set will show up from a third party with proper dimensions and shock top mounting clamp that lets you put the shock closer to a realistic position. Another option is threaded rod stock and sleeves to cover the unused threads between for truly custom lengths. The link ends come alone without links, predrilled for scx and fcx, your choice, and length options that are only threaded at the ends all this sold separately. With this method you can have a scx link end on one end and a fcx end on the other end so good for hybrid builds like fcx axles on scx chassis. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jLSZjZZpx8mZYnk.html.

Adam you should try using Goody rubber hair ties stretched between your upper and lower shock mounts. It prevents the suspension from unloading on steep climbs but does not limit flex, definitely great tuning option!

Articulation can be double edged sword... It looks cool, and can be fun. It can also help in certain situations. I try not to get too hung up on is though, as it's not the be all, end all, when it comes to maximizing performance. After all, at the end of the day, from a performance standpoint, clearing a section is what matters. Then again, if you're just in it for fun, and your bag is watching a rig that has a ton of flex, then that's cool too. 👍

Going to check those out. Having issues with shocks binding with my current set up. Wish there were better shock mount positions on the fcx24.

what a massive difference

so cool love it

They look good Adam...i used the Injora stainless gladiator links as the Mccue ones the freight was just to expensive to my country and when i emailed him he didnt even respond, and it will be great when Injora, etc do a proper rear stretched link with a few lower rear shock mounts , high clearance with proper link ends for good articulation.

Maybe I flexed out the front end, but overall my flex is a little more then stock, but not what it could be with longer links. I have no binding on the linkage, chassis or body. It's all in the screws and hole in the linkage. The heads of screws bind unless they're completely outside . Also the shocks angle out from the chassis to the linkage which causes similar binding to the shock tower mod you tried. IMO They are worth running till something better comes out.

what shocks are those and how come no springs?

That's so sick Adam. Are you going to get the furitek Caymon? I just ordered one today and a body I can hopefully turn into a fake Honcho, lol.

Do you rekon that these links would work if the shocks were on stock position with the Injora double Tele shocks??

How much did it add to the wheel base? It looks a touch too stretched IMO, like it would get hung up on the belly out in the rocks. I just made some homemade brass links that push the front out 3mm and the back out 13mm and it now has the same wheelbase as a Gladiator and think it's just about right.

I like the colored links as well wonder if you could paint them ?

Great other video. I think the links are just a little to long. What tires & beadlocks are you running on this?

Definitely needs a bit more weight in the rear with those to help give some more traction. If he can get those mass produced in aluminum, and brass, they can be half as thick, and he would have a real winner of a product on his hands.

Have you seen the McCue front extension links? I ordered them, and the rear links (along with the steering links) and I haven't even gotten my FCX yet! If you haven't seen those, could you get them and test them out?

What’s your GO TO replacement servo for the FCX24? I stripped the stock. Replaced with an AGFRC 7.5. Now, that one is 100% stripped.

Personaly I’d buy a bunch of different scx links and create the perfect combo jlu rear in front gladiator rear in rear

Why do you turn the shocks upside down? And do you think it would help every build?

Was the sound of the truck normal it sounded like when u got on it the gears or something was slipping?

do the shocks have oil in them?

You don’t have a Dremel? Oh Adam! 😂 You likely have one by this time - and you will wonder how you have done without!

Is this the same fcx24 as the one with the monster truck body?

Uses some different stuff than what I'm used to seeing from Axial. 🤔

It a real Fms ,big noise

Reference the "finish" on the 3D printed links, you can sand the surface just enough to pretty much smooth it out. Then, you could spray them with several very light layers of filler-primer to smooth them out. Then, paint them what ever color you want. Just keep in mind that they will get scratched up on the bottom. If you don't to mess with having your paint scratched up, you can VERY CAUTIOUSLY heat the surface of the links by flashing a small butane lighter flame over them. It will put them back to a semi-smooth plastic finish. But, be warned, if you over heat, they will melt/warp.

ahh noooo lol more 3d printed plastic hahah, I get it that there a cool upgrade but fit and finish says Harbour freight to me,,,sorry

Like your videos in general, but you lost me at "I don't have a Dremel". Dude! You have thousands of dollars invested in RC, and you don't have a Dremel??? Seriously? I've burned through at least a couple. No self respecting hobbyist, of any type, can say, "I don't have a Dremel". Come on now! Pony up with at least the hundred bucks it takes to get a basic Dremel tool...