Thank you! Greatly appreciate your time viewing my video and feedback.

Glad to be of help, congrats on your new addition and sounds exciting to be building a tribute car.

Great to hear! Glad it was helpful for you.

You are very welcome, thank you for watching.

You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!

I just want the whole lightbar to light up it is just the two end caps along with Ali's and takedowns as well as the two middle back ones and that's it I want the rest of its light up

@@Corporatechocolatehottie, I presume with the end caps lighting up and the alleys lighting up at the same time, are you on mode 3 or having the alley light wires connected at the same time? What confutation do you have setup with your wiring? Another option is with the power on, you can activate and set the bar up in programming mode to change the patterns so it'll light up the other portions of the bar unless you have dead leds/board issues...have you tried to change the pattern setting?

I have mode 2 selected but when I put mode 3 wire with the 12 volt power it still did the in caps in the two middle back ones

Cuz the left Ally right Alley and takedowns are all on their own switches

Chad Munsey, thanks for subscribing! Glad this will be a helpful video for your bar, a sad day when your components go out on such a good bar.

D L, if you use an external setup for your traffic advisor on your S2 bar, does your signal master function work? I'm sure the lightbar itself works, maybe just the module...those are cheaper and easier to replace than the bar...unless you have another bar you could test the module with...I've had that a few times where one of my modules wouldn't work on one bar but worked flawless on a different bar.

412 PSE Kustomz, on the system or setup you have, do you know if they had more patterns before or are you just getting into trying to change them? The first thing that pops into my head is maybe some of the patterns that are preprogrammed into the module won't work on your setup configuration, something isn't set correctly on you serial interface module or you may be correct in regards to a faulty module. I would say if you have a second module to test, that will eliminate a lot of variables. I know if I use one module on one bar, then move it to another bar, my patterns show different but the module sees it's flashing pattern no 10 for example. Was your module original to the lights? If I recall correctly, when I was tinkering with one of my Arjent bars a while back, I had maybe 5 or 6 patterns to select for mode 1, mode 2 had a few more then I believe mode 3 had a few less so it varied on that bar with a new module...

Sorry for the late reply, I believe you do not need to set each wire in program mode to activate each wire. I haven't had that experience with any of the bars I've worked on so that's a little curious why yours will not activate...I have had one experience where low power wasn't working on one of my liberty bars but as I opened it up and traced the wire, the wire was not even hooked up in the connector plugged to the board of the bar.

No worries. Thanks for the info. I am probably just missing something simple, I'm still trying to change my patterns, right now the white button is just activating scene light left when I press it so I'm doing something wrong somewhere.

D L, yes, you have to open the the module open and there is a couple terminals that will need adjustment. Depending on how the blk connector is hooked up, it will either switch for the internal or external traffic advisor control and then you'll have to adjust the dip switches on the far right on the module as well.

Does you SM have the traffic advisor light indicator in the middle with a total of about 20 buttons? Three are counted via the slide switch. If it is the model I am thinking, the two top right buttons are typically setup for fast speed override for the signal master pattern and low power for the signal master standard. Now reprogramming that to run a few extra AUX lights, etc, you should be able to do so through the Federal Signal SmartSiren Configuration owners manual PDF that will walk you through the flow chart to program them. I could type it out here but it would be a few paragraphs...haha.

@@rjracing38 yes mine is the ss2000sm with the lights for the SM at the top horizontally. I should have downloaded the manual for it so I'll have a look through for the programming. And yeah top right is fast and low that's wicked to know, and I assume that if I do successfully program it to use them for aux then the output would come from the Signal Master plug?

You could go online to fedsig.com or visit this link, www.fedsig.com/resource-document/file/8146. This is the resource file for the serial interface model that will show you each wire and what wire hooked up to power will do what for you and your Legend lightbar.

Great question...short answer, not very easily. Because the lightbar connects to this device via ethernet connection which comes off the circuit boat, there is a possibility with adding grille lights, etc but there would be a lot of reconfiguring and wiring involved to make it happen. Now, another option could be depending on the switch panel system you have that would control the SIM (Serial Interface Module). What controller/switch box/panel are you using in line with the SIM to control your lighting?

I am not 100% sure but I do believe the lightbar has to be setup for the solid steady burn. If the bar was not setup for the steady burn option, I do not believe the bar will do a steady burn.

Depending on how you setup your wiring, I believe you could use the two components in conjunction with the Valor lightbar.

D L, I believe your bar has to be programmed or setup to have the steady burn leds activate. They are usually setup from the factory in that manner.

This will work for the Valor lightbars as I have tested a few of them on the lightbars.

What function are you trying to activate with your Legend lightbar? Are you trying to change your lightbars patterns for a specific mode?

D L, yea, I was trying to try something different with my existing camera but wasn't working out that well for me...I'm looking into a different camera system that will allow much better recording.

Depending on the lightbar. If the bar you have contains a cat5 connection plug, then you will need either the SIM (Serial Interface Module), or any of the 3 or 6 button controllers, or smart siren or anything like that.

@@rjracing38 Okay, thank you

@@rjracing38 I Have a Legend amber light bar with red black and cat 5 wires and a federal signal 6 button controller that comes with a connector with 3 wires red/black/orange can i make it work with this devise?

@@figueroatowingservices4063 Yes, you can plug the main red and black power leads to your battery and then the cat5 cable to the 6 button controller then you'll have the power connector/wires from the 6 button controller that you can hook up to your ignition and that will power everything up and setup your controller from there yes.

I presume obviously you have both the grounds hooked up, proper fuses in line as well as the bar has it's own power wiring supplied to your source with its respective fusing as well and ground? If that's the case, hopefully it's not a faulty module. A few big things that you can check besides the obvious in regards to good power and ground leads are secure and tight, double check the cat5 cable between the serial module and the lightbar or trying a new cat5 cable, make sure the position of dip switch 1 of SW-2 is down (ON), then test the wires again as this should allow the bar to power the LEDs. Also while you're looking at SW-2 on the serial interface module, make sure all your dip switches are in their correct locations...example, dip 1 is down, dip 2 and 3 are up, dip 4 is your signal master, internal or external, dip 5 doesn't really matter up or down, dip 6 should be up for operation mode and dip 7 and 8 are switches for INTERSECTION operation settings. Hope this was helpful.

D L, inside the unit, on the pcb board, there should be a blk pin connector you will need to make sure is connecting two pins together to reflect internal signal master control, then on the outside where there's a sticker that shows SW-2, you will need to make sure pin number 4 is in the down position. I can get you the pdf download that will provide illustrations as well if needed.

I'm not sure the current software that Federal Signal is using on their bars currently, I have about 5 or 6 serial interface modules on hand right now with a few different production dates. Good news is, yes, you should be able to utilize a SS2000SM with the serial interface module to light up your Legend lightbar instead of using just the 6-Button controller.

@@rjracing38 Thanks for the info! FS is using Convergence. I've played around with it a bit and you're definitely right that it's easier than manual programming, but it still falls a bit short compared to Whelen's new Command software IMO. I've always found both WC and Scan Lock to be very easy to program vs FS IMHO. Lucked out and I'm hopefully getting a SmartSiren Platinum control head. It's just the control head, but I'll see what I can do with it. Also love the switchbox that you've set up! Would really like to know how you made it. If you're on elightbars.org, what's your user name? I'll send you a PM. Should be easy to find me there. User avatar/photo is almost identical to my KZfaq one and just look for very long posts 😂. Like you, I'll also be a proud owner of a Valor a short time from now. It's the 51" Fire/EMS r/w version. Would still prefer r/b/w. Flash patterns look great in r/b vs r/r or r/w. No HotFoot takedowns, but I'll still be a member of the Valor Owners Club 😁😁! Can't wait! Even has a breakout box to use regular switches!!

@@northernlightsandsirens4230 Congrats on your new bar, that is always exciting. I am on the elightbars site, user name is lightcollector38. The switch box I made was pretty simple, mainly time consuming but it was an old medic box I had laying around.

@@rjracing38 I really liked the medic box. Gives it a nice look and it looks like there was enough space to get everything in. I was thinking of using surplus plastic shotgun shell box or making a control head of sorts out of MDF. I'd paint it black and try to get FS logos or something to make it look somewhat like a control head 😂. Don't have the Valor yet; counting down the days until I do. Getting it from an elightbars member here in Canada for an *incredibly* good price. In the meantime, I'm expecting a CPD Legend next week. It'll be interesting to see how things go. It doesn't have the serial controller, but I managed to get one. Just need the cabling for it, but will be getting some from a fellow elightbars member. Also checked on eLB and saw that it's the right controller as per the install manual. It was sold as being for an Arjent S2, but an extremely knowledgeable eLB member indicated in a post that the install manual said that it's the model required for a CPD Legend. That particular variant of the Legend was supposed to be a custom build, so we'll see what's in store! Should be getting a Whelen Liberty LC soon or depending on what the bankbook (and my wife!) allows, a Liberty II WeCan, if there are still any left by that time. Going for a great price, even with exchange rates. It's hard to get full-sized bars here; most are in the US and shipping is *very* expensive; sometimes more than the bar itself!

Nice! Yea, I'm planning on either getting a Whelen WeCan or upgrading one of my LC bars to the WeCan but I think just for my collection, I'll locate a Liberty WeCan bar.

You can utilize a smart lightbar with the power leads and just the cat5 connectors without the serial interface module but you will need a 3-button or 6-button controller to make the bar work. Without the cat5, you would have to take out the board and then end up installing something else in order to make each lighthead function.

OK, So, If I connect a few of the cat 5 wires together without a 3 or 6 button controller, the functions would change manually/accordingly? as long as I can hook up the +12V and Ground, twist 2 cat 5 wires together, I should have some sort of light show correct? I only need 1 light display then I can just wire a switch on the power wire @@rjracing38

The Cat5 wiring is a communication wire from the 3/6-Button controller hooked up to a Printed Circuit Board like a computer. The button controllers or serial interface modules or even the platinum series smart siren are required to communicate to the bar to light up the bar and complete different options/functions.

Unfortunately I do not. Might be able to reach out to Federal Signal directly for a part number and their cost.

So you will want to ensure power is completely off to the Module, turn "ON" Switch 6, (basically flip switch 6 to the down position), however, in order to to access the pattern programming properly, you will need to ensure Switch 2, position 1 must be in off. Once you have Switch 6 on, apply ignition power then start programming from mode 3 first, then mode 2 and lastly mode 1. Once you have all your modes programmed, then return switch 6 on SW-2 back to the off position, (up position), then remove ignition power and programming should be complete.

Do you know if your bar is setup for amber traffic advisor built-in? The Serial Interface Module has an internal switch to signify if you will be using a lightbar with a built-in signal master or traffic advisor or an external traffic advisor. If you bar has an internal TA built-in, then you will need to open up the module you have to ensure the switch is in the correct location, then activate the correct wire for the pattern you are needing or looking for. Otherwise, if your bar is not setup for a TA and requires an external, then switch the SIM to external TA and then there is a little extra wiring you will need to do and use a separate control box to activate the patterns you are looking for by having the appropriate wire colors hooked up to the control box correctly.

You can definitely use the slide switch to activate your different modes. When looking at the back of your SmartSiren SS2000SM controller, you will have the Blue wire (mode 1) connect to terminal 1 and your Blue/White wire (mode 2) connected to terminal 2 while having your Blk/Red (mode 3) and Red/Blk (flashing tkdwn) connected to terminal 3. If you need further assistance, I can do a demonstration video later or I can show you a wiring diagram to your email as well.

rjracing38 when utilizing the smart siren SM is there still a serial module? I️ see the lights go through the black box, which I️ believe runs the sirens/amp. I’m asking because my current tech is way out with vehicles and my rears are not flashing like normal they are stead and slow flashes

rjracing38 also how would I️ get you my email privately.

Mitchall Bierma, I'll send you the info with the wiring schematic. I can also do a brief video as well if you need more visuals...

hi please make a video tnx

Yes, you can use this same module for the Federal Signal Legend lightbar. I have one of these I programmed to my Legend as well so you will be good to go.

@@rjracing38 Thank you

So first thing I would say is depending if they had worked with the bar before or not will be your first step. Regardless, I would check on the back of the control box and see if the red/black wire is hooked up to the mode/code 3 switch of your control box. More than likely from what I have experienced with working on other agencies vehicles is that wire they did not have hooked up for some reason. Typically, on your code 3 switch, you should have a primarily black with red stripe wire hooked up to activate that mode but if you are looking for the flashing takedowns and alleys, you will also want the primary red with black stripe wire hooked up as well. The color wiring I am referring to is the colored wires coming off the Serial Interface Module as long as no one messed with the standard wiring that came with the device. The flashing takedowns/alley lights will only flash when powered when on of the modes is activated as well.

So the primary red with black stripe wire should run from the signal interface module to the Smart Siren control box, correct? The wiring job is horrendous in this car, but it looks like I am missing the red with black stripe wire. I’m gonna have to do some digging to try and track it down. I’m also trying to find the Mode 1, 2 and 3 inputs into the siren controller itself. Would you happen to know what color wires the mode 1 and 2 wires should be? I assume they’ll all be in-line with each other.

@@DevilsAssassain that is correct, the primary red with a blk stripe should be the correct wire to activate the flashing takedown/alley lights. For mode 1, that should run on a solid blue wire, mode 2 should be on a primary blue with a white stripe while mode 3 should activate on a solid black with a red stripe wire. I would recommend putting your flashing takedown/alley lights with mode 3, this is what I always do when wiring.

@@rjracing38 so I found the red/black wire. Just as you suspected, it’s not connected to anything. The rest of the wires also don’t match up. I have a thick white wire plugged into the mode 3 slot with no other wires attached. I checked out my coworker’s car, which has the flashing takedowns that work (usually). His car has the red/black wire spliced into the thick white wire that I then plugged into the mode 3 slot. Theoretically, if I attach the flashing takedown wire into the mode 3 slot with the existing white wire, they should work, correct?

@@DevilsAssassain hypothetically yes, that should work if that is how the other vehicle is wired and works properly. The thick white wire, depending on where that starts, that's the only thing I am curious about as I know the solid white wire coming off the serial interface modal as typically wired into the ignition but being you have a thick white wire, I presuming that was spliced from somewhere and attached to your mode 3 switch on your control box.

What Whelen controller are you trying to use with your Federal Signal Vision SLR and Serial Interface Module?

@@rjracing38 core/wecanx

I have a link in the description that has the direct download to the wiring diagram for the modules and which wire controls which function

@@rjracing38 thanks

Roee Losycer, yes, we can contact via email and I can try and help walk you through and figure out some of the issues you are running into.

Out of your Legend bar, you have your power cables and a cat5 wire coming from the bottom of the bar correct? If you do and you are looking for just the lighting, then you would just need to purchase this serial interface module for the bar and plug it in and then you can use just about any switchbox to control your lights for your take downs, code 1 pattern, alleys, etc pending on how your bar is setup.

You can use pretty much any switch box on the market that I have found and tried. The more common I have used have been the Federal Signal SW400SS I found has worked real well but I like that model as it still has a few switches and the slide switch for modes 1,2 and 3. Whelen, Code 3 and other manufactures also make switch boxes that will work as well together with this interface module.

@@rjracing38 Hi and thank you for the reply -- very helpful ^^ ! Same control box for the SL (minus the serial module)? Apparently I got an SL instead of an S2 (the seller had it wrong), so I have to rethink everything ;o .....

@@hanyou23 If you have the SL bar, you will not need the serial interface module. There are a couple different models I have seen for the SL models. One variation that I have seen is each light head is wired individually and using a single ground in the wire harness or another model I have seen and experienced is there is a small couple of modules known as the federal signal intelliflashers. I have listed below a link that shows the more common wiring I have seen with several of the SL models and hopefully this will help in your setup; www.fedsig.com/resource-document/file/8020.

@@rjracing38 I have the one going to ground... opened it up today. Do you have a way I can contact you other than here? I have a few additional questions that might be better had via that route. Seems not many know about these anymore, so I'm somewhat flying in the dark ;p .....

These will work for the Valor lightbars. I unfortunately do not have any extras at the moment yet.

rjracing38 how much are they? And if you get another will you let me know.

@@BlakeFreeman10, I've seen them online ranging from as low as $20 to as much as almost $200....

What lightbar do you have this module hooked up to? By cruise lights, does your bar only light up the corner lights or the whole bar?

@@rjracing38 hey, the module is the 8583469E hooked up to a Legend. The cruise lights are only the corner lights

@@star601 Ok, so you have the black plastic model...I may have an idea of what may be going on but question...what color wire do you have powered for the cruise lights? Are you using the built in TA or an external TA controller?

@@rjracing38 Im using the red/wht cable and using the built in TA. I don't know, I think it should work right? it almost looks like the cruise isn't programmed to work when TA is activated.

@@star601 ok, so it's what I thought may be the case. The red/white wire is designated to run a steady burn or in your case, has been set and programmed either in the module itself or on the light bar to run cruise lights but it does sound like the TA is overriding the cruise lights when activated. You should be able to download the Federal Signal Convergence Network Configuration Software on their website and plug the serial interface module into your computer to see how everything was programed and set up and see if there is any overrides you may be able to disable.

Are you trying to use the Serial Interface Module to control your traffic adviser or an external device? When you say you can't get your V part of the Valor to light up steady white, I presume you are referring to the full flood feature, is this Valor a new bar you purchased or used? Has the bar been setup for that feature along with the built-in traffic adviser? I only ask these questions as I have come across a couple that were not setup for either feature.

@@rjracing38 I got the traffic advisor to work thank God but yes you are correct i cant get the full flood to light up and it is a used bar it says 2012 all over, I dont know if it came programmed for it or not

@@jeffreyfried4948, if you have the serial number or possibly build number or any information on the bar, you can reach out to Federal Signal to see if the bar came programmed with the full flood feature or if possibly the serial interface module is programmed for the full flood feature.

@@rjracing38 thanks

What bar do you have first? Second, the red and black wires you have coming off the bar are for power to the bar so you will need to have an inline fuse/fuse holder on one of those cables. On the Cat5 cable, you will need something to hook up to that such as this device, the serial interface module, or a 3-button or 6-button controller to tell the bar what functions to activate. Then from there, you will have a power lead and or a ground lead for the device which will also require a fuse holder as well. The biggest thing is going to be a DC power supply for the lightbar or like in my case, an AC to DC inverter power supply unit.

I have federal legend with a cat cable and a red and black wire what else do I need to get it to work

Can I buy the equipment from you to get it to work

@@rickmerryman3475 Ok, perfect. I am very familiar as I have 3 Legends in my display. Yes, so for these models, you will need a fuse holder typically with a 50amp breaker on the red wire, black will go to ground of your power supply. The Cat5 controller, you have a few options depending on what you want setup wise. You can use a little more simpler Federal Signal Serial Interface module like one shown in this video, 3 or 6 button controller, (personally, if you want a real simple system without having to add a bunch of buttons, wiring, etc, the 6-button is the way to go and I have a few videos to showcase those and how they work) or you can go as high as the Federal Signal Smart Siren Platinum which will give you the availability to do a bit more customization of you bar lighting wise. Then, once you have the cat5 connection chosen, you can then run power to those units, same as before, power with a fuse holder and ground and then you can begin lighting up your bar. I do have planned this coming weekend to get a few more instructional videos shot and uploaded as I have obtained a couple new products to showcase, I can make a video of how to hook up a lightbar and that process for like a display.

@@rickmerryman3475 Are you in the CA region by chance? I do have a couple parts that I can get access to in assisting getting yours up and running for display.

Does the plug that goes to the J1 spot have the wire in it and was just cut short or is it completely removed?

@@rjracing38 So since I've sent you a message I have realized this may not be the factory plug. The wires aren't the same colors. So now my question to you is, could you tell me which pin on the plug WOULD be the white wire.

@@RMcc401 Yea, it didn't sound like you have a factory one. I can yes, I am currently on the road at the moment but I will be getting back to the shop tonight and will get that answer for you later this evening and let you know.

@@rjracing38 thank you so much. Literally no where have i been able to find a wiring diagram of the actual plug.

@@rjracing38 I’m glad you replied, because I was going to pull my hair out

Your main power wire that will power the unit is going to be your solid white wire in the bundle of wire for the J1 plug and the ground wires are your solid black and black with white wire. With the white wire, youd want to put a 1 amp fuse inline to prevent blowing your unit.

@@rjracing38 Thanks. And do you know how to connect this interface to the module federal signal ss2000sm?

Your best bet trying to find one of these may be on ebay or elightbars.org is what I can recommend for you.

@@rjracing38 Thanks. I found one on ebay which was sold as working. Cost a fortune in rip off shipping & import tax but arrived today. Unfortunately i still cant get the lightbar to work but whether that is faulty lightbar, faulty interface or wrong cat5 cable i have no idea. My cat5 cable wiring is the same at both ends, ie hold both plugs the same way up & the wiring is the same within each plug. I have also seen cat5 cable with reversed ends, ie hold both plugs the same way up & the wiring colours are reversed in each plug. To try & rule out this being the issue or not, can you please advise if the cable wiring should be the same in both ends or reversed? Many thanks in advance

@@onlyme5909 yes, for the cat5 cable you do want them the same on both ends or what we call, straight ends/wiring. Are you by chance in the state of CA? Do you only have this one lightbar? I presume this is the only bar you have in which makes testing multiple points a bit more difficult but an easy way to test your cat5 cable if it works or not is you can unplug it from the lightbar and if you have a modem device from you ISP, you can plug one end into the modem and one into your computer or laptop device and see if you get working/functioning internet service. If you do, your cat5 cable is good.

@@rjracing38 Hi. I am in Scotland. I imported 5 supposedly ex LAPD lightbars which were sold as working when removed but sold without wiring. After finding out i needed the serial interface to operate them i seen one on ebay USA, model 8583446 which i was told had been tested & working & would operate the Arjent S2 LED lightbars. The RG45 cable is brand new & as you suggested works my laptop via internet router. I found some wiring instructions from federal signal online which states provide pos & neg within lightbar, connect rg45 then plug in to controller along with connect white wire from controller multi plug to fused live & black / black white wires to neg (of which there are 2 of each) connected it all up & nothing at all happens. Battery im using is 12v fully charged. Even tried connecting red wire from multiplug to live which fed signal say is alley light but still nothing. Not being a bar that was ever available in the UK i have no idea if its the lightbars or controller that arent working. Incase i was using the wrong rg45 cable i have only opened & tried 2 of the 5 lightbars. There are 4 fuses inside lightbars all of which are fine. No idea if i dont know how to operate them or if its the lightbars or controller at fault :-(

What questions do you have?

@@rjracing38 I bought a couple legend light bars off line not realizing there not like my other light bars my other ones I was able to build a switch box for then very basic power and 4 other wires for different options. I don’t know anything about these legend bars what all do I need to make them work ? Or is there a way to maybe test them ? All I have is the 2 bars and a few inches of chord coming out.

I’m assuming by your videos with out the interface these are useless

How many wires do you have coming out? Just red and black for power and a cat5 wire or an ethernet wire?

@@rjracing38 there’s a red and a black wire then there’s a 3rd wire that’s probably 8 little wires in it