Me too man

Wow! Those are great! I've got a post rotted along the perimeter of Villa Costa-Mucho! I might have to see if I can find some of these around here!

Richard Slusher I put the Home Depot link in the description, but they are also available on Amazon Prime at the same price.

8digitPDX, thanks! I've got an HD just down the street!

Kent Harris Thanks for the comment. That's why I try to bring the practical advice videos in on this channel.

If you have to ask, have someone else come to do it.

@@danbo12177734 Well there's that and then there's what educational youtube videos exist for.

Beat them wider, they are steel not diamond.

PANDEMIC pricing in full in effect STILL in 2023 lol!

The steel reinforcement piece just breaks away and shoves its way through the concrete. The concrete typically used to hold fence posts tends to get brittle over time and is never reinforced with steel mesh. It is just poured in an oversize hole as one guy holds the post level and square. Once a post starts to rot, it swells, which cracks the concrete anyway. It is one reason you tend to see cracked concrete and rotten wood together in aged construction.

I had to chip away enough concrete to get the strong ties in deep enough. It will not go though concrete by simply hammering it it. I then poured concrete around the strong ties giving the post a much stronger hold. The way it is done in this video will not give you a firm hold. Especially in open areas where winds can be stronger.

I also believe you are supposed to drive it in until that bump you use to drive it in is flush with the ground

Why do they go on the side? That is counter intuitive. The fence always leans forwards or back, never side ways, and that giant plate of steel, along the face of the post, would seem to lend the needed to/fro support. However I do know that the instruction on the item says toi install on the sides.

You have installed it incorrectly. It is supposed to be on the sides not the face. You would need to remove the support rails and pickets in that area. Install the mender then reinstall rail and picket. Much much stronger installation. 🤓

​@@shanepitzer4323but it's easier this way 😊😅

@@boofuls easier? Oh the lazy way and not how it’s designed to be used. Got it. 😆

+Goon Industries I know mate. Just about every garden fence in Britain has posts that rot off exactly at ground level while the bit that's down underground , whether concreted in or not will remain solid . Its perfectly possible to make a post firm in just about any soil as long as you compact the backfill material really thoroughly then as you say put the concrete on top . PS my other pet hate is seeing newly laid turf given a good going over with a wacker

I agree, that look like they really don't work that well.

How many of those 20 years were spent vainly trying these so that you can say that?

@@TheLarryBrown 🙂 Let me rephrase that. 99% of the fence posts I've been asked to fix over those years were set in concrete - in which case these things no workee.

Lowes sells these and the one picture they have as installed are on the same sides of the fence in this video

The installation video made by Simpson and posted here on KZfaq shows the mender being installed on the front of the post. It makes a hell of a lot more sense from an effort point of view to put it there. Ever tried hammering one of these things in on the side of a fence post like the instructions suggest? The work you have to do to get access to the side of the post, plus the effort and cost of installing these, means you might as well put in a new post if you're going to do it on the sides.

When we bought our house, we got a bunch of different quotes to put a privacy fence around our yard. There was no previous fence, pretty level ground all the way around with no obstructions, and we needed close to 250 linear feet. The prices were typical, but we wanted metal posts, and I wanted metal rails. That made the price skyrocket of course because of the rails, but I expected that. I ended up looking into the cost to do it myself, and it was absolutely doable, so I took that route. I payed less than half of all the quotes, and got my metal rails. Sure, they're absolutely uneccessary, but that fence is a beast, lol. Me, a few of my buddies and an in-law all worked on it. It was definitely a learning experience, but it wasn't difficult by any means. It was tedious at best, but we got it done. It's held up for the last 18 years with minimal repairs, and not one of those repairs has ever involved those metal posts or rails. 😂

+Thomas yates Client's choice because "doing it right" that close to the building and with the rest of the fence there involves a lot more money tied up in labor.

8digitPDX Fence post can be removed in minutes but i get what ur saying. Im just not a fan of simpson strong ties, not that it isnt a good product, but its ridiculously expensive and they have pretty much gotten their dirty hands into every counties back pockets forcing people to use their products. If the price were an honest price, i could care less. But its not, and they drive the cost of doing business skyhigh. And if youre a small contractor, or handyman...people simply will not understand that its not you thats jacking the prices up.

Thomas yates I am a handyman and I just show the customer the receipt from Home Depot or Lowes where I buy the stuff. My prices are so far below the "professional outfits" that nobody even questions it and if they do, then I am just down the road. They most likely got quotes from the regular fence contractors before even calling me and those guys mark everything up a lot.

+8digitPDX I was happy to pay $16 for a pair of these per post (at Lowe's) for a reasonable repair whereas I would have spent hours over several days digging up the concrete to re-do the entire post. Not anywhere near worth my time to do that.

+Thomas yates You assume that there is not concrete down a foot of even more, mine were two feet. Unless you very strong, more than an ape, they will need a backhoe to get it out.. Just about then I dare say 50 bucks for two pieces of iron are better, depends if you plan to live there anymore.