Hi All! As a quick update, the reason for the slight departure from the Bertram project is that I'm basically waiting on materials to arrive. Things that were supposed to be here 2 weeks ago are still MIA :-/ Until these things come in my hands are a bit tied. Hopefully things will be able to get back on track soon!

Just like to say that you have a perfect YT presenter personality. Knowledgable, easy to listen to, easy going, get to the point, non-patronising. I'm learning a lot from you. Thanks.

Thank you Andy for not including a demonstration video with the showering tip. Seriously, great tips. While working with fiberglass can be a DIY type of project (the small stuff) the tips and techniques you pass on go a long way to helping us amateurs produce decent work without going crazy.

Thank you for this video! I am a tattoo artist but just got a full time gig as a fiberglass technician apprentice in Austin Texas. Your videos are extremely helpful and informative. I love fiberglassing and rebuilding boats. Im looking forward to seeing more videos from you. Thanks, Mark Tyner

As usual Andy, very informative and we'll presented. I'm 75 just for perspective and grew up in a family of 6 on Canadian Armed Force's bases so not poor but no extras. I scrubbed with a back brush and partially dried with wash cloths to save the towel for the next person. I found that scrubbing aggressively with e The cloth will remove most if not all the glass fibers. I'll now try the luffa and see. Again, keep up the good work. Your info has and continues to be invaluable

Old time ceiling - fiberglass insulation installer is to generously apply baby powder to exposed skin areas. This fills the skin pours. It works try it.

Thanks Andy, great advice! I'm getting ready to remove my console and replace soft floor on my 204 Angler. Ill need all the help I can get, You're the man!

You have been a great source of information and techniques as I restore and modify my boat. Thank you so much.

Thanks, Andy! I use one more trick: I wear 2-3 pair of gloves and as soon as one pair is sticked with poliester resin, I just "peel myself" taking away 1 pair and continue to work. I don't waist time for wearing new pair of gloves in the middle of the process working with resin is always a time racea))) PS: yes, this buffy soap thing helps to release the small fiber-glass dust but also, I do laundry just after finishing my work with fiberglass))) PPS: Thanks for your work, you are my inspiration. Now I'm restoring my very first sailboat Dehler 37 and I could not do some works without your youtube channel. Thanks and Glory to Ukraine!

just perfect. I ve just started out fiberglassing my boat, but I ve learned a ton of stuff from your channel . Very knowledgable, pleasant to listen to and on point. Thank you so much for the effort of making this and uploading it!

You are the best. You inspired me to rebuilt the cowl on a 90hp Mercury outboard that sustained heavy dock rub damage.

thanks for the info.....as a first time fiberglasser I found most of the tips to be very helpful

When I was grinding glass daily for a living, I came up with a warm shower to get the dust off and soften my skin, water off, soap-up, and wipe down (not scrub) with the rough side of a kitchen scourer sponge (to get my Gold Man-card), and then rinse off. Finally I could get some rest in bed before going back for more.

one of your most incredibly useful videos ever!!! Watching the mega-projects is fun and informative but this kind of nuts and bolts stuff is why i started watching. I dont use suits to keep the glass off - I'm in Hawaii and it would be WAY too hot. i work in shorts and a tank top with my arms and neck covered in baby powder. covered. completely. works a charm!

Thanks for the tips! I will make sure I click the links for products you use as you do such a great job explaining everything. I hope you can consider vinyl gloves, they cost the same as latex, and some are allergic to them. I go through about 3 sets of gloves an hour on messy jobs (sweat gets annoying). I find packs of ten gloves for a buck at the box store and they hold up well for 15 min jobs. For giggles plan on coating some popsicle sticks with left over resin and coating sand on them and let them cure for cheap sanding tools. DIY emory boards with resin you were going to toss anyway. Wooden dowels and q-tips too. I am glad You Tube promotes you doing a great job!

Thanks for the videos Andy. You’ve helped me understand fiberglass repair so much easier. I was clueless about resins and fillers and epoxys. Thank you! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻⚓️⚓️⚓️ Walter Rella Montauk, NY

Helpful as always, thanks I keep an open tub of talcum powder around the shop, rub it on hands, between fingers and on my inner arms before starting to sand or grind. Over my whole body before a big job! It is 100% effective at preventing the itch. I hear it may be unwise to breathe talc dust, take some care.

Very good advice. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience.

Andy. Glad to hear that in addition to the Boat business also plant a garden. There’s nothing like fresh grown vegetables straight from the garden.

Love the videos. As for 3M respirators. Solvent cartridge I used while painting air planes ( Naval air craft ) were good for 8hr continues use or 72hrs. The P100 filters were dust filters. Ours were round and pink in color. I have used the same dust filter that is on your respiratory. They tend to not last as long as the pink filters. If you used the 3M 7000 series masks with a P100 filter while sanding that will keep the dust and fiberglass out of your face. The 7000 series cost more but is reusable more so then the 5000 and 6000 series. Just my $.02! Happy fiberglassing.

Loved the video boss!

Thanks for all the videos Andy. All are helpful.

Very Informative video. Thank You so much!!! Your Channel seems to be the industry standard for training, so congratulations and Keep them coming. This is the only channel I find myself going back to for informed training time after time. Thank You!!!

Thanks. Helpful and timely.

Great video! Lots of practical info we all need.

Man, your videos are awesome. So many things to learn. Thank you

Great Video Andy! This is the stuff that no one else talks about! You are soooooo close to 100k subscribers. I hope I am the first one to congratulate you.

Thank you so much for such an informative video :)

Useful info TU 👍🏼

Thank you Andy, good stuff...

Thanks for you info...👍👍👍

I've been using Harbor Freight Chip Brushes...about $5 for 30, and I just cut the bristles down. After working with some On/Off Hull Cleaner on my very first boat I decided I REALLY needed a respirator. WOW...what a difference it made. I went from being able to work for a few seconds to being able to do everything in one shot.

Great advice on masks. I had a mask that with fresh filters last year and putting on antifouling. I couldn't smell the solvents, but it still made me nauseous. Fresh filters fixed that problem and the dating is perfect.

Unfortunately with Covid19 it is hard to find respirators, and cartridges. Thanks for the expiration info, I learn so much from these videos.

You are crushing it!!

Nice video man enjoy watching them! Just to add a couple things; I hit the dollar store (Dollarama in Canada is great) and load up on stuff big time. Those barrel rollers; if using resin I just let the whole thing kick, then smash out the roller using a hammer. Most of the dried resin busts off with it. Usually get a dozen or so uses out of it this way. The rollers themselves at the dollar store are cheap and do fluff off a bit, but if its going to get sanded and buried with primer the fluffs just sand out. I like the yellow dishwashing gloves for doing layups. One pair lasts a long time. Usually by the time I am done they are a rainbow of color. Just don't let the resin dry on them or they will be junk.

I bought a full face mask version of the 3M respirator. It is perfect to keep the fiberglass dust out of your eyes and doesn't fog up like goggles.

Love these videos just got a glasco fiber glass canoe that I'm going to patch

I don't do the amount of glass work you do, but I am laying up a car body now. 3 things I have found that work well, that I didn't do 25 years ago when I did a lot of glass work is, I do use that small cigar roller, but I use the cloth roller and they work excellent. I haven't tried the rollers you have on this video. Another thing I use and always have, is food handling vinyl gloves. They are cheap and I have always had good luck with them. Also, 30 years ago, I used to use only lacquer thinner. Back then I used clean up lacquer thinner, but no a days, that is junk. I just ordered some virgin Lacquer thinner, I'm hoping that will work, much cheaper than acetone. and the last thing I just started using a plastic bondo spreader to help wet out. I'm hand laying now, 30 years ago I had a chopper gun. Great videos, thanks...bob

Andy love your videos so helpful man I could kiss you, well no not like that, but you have helped me greatly with my boat project and not being a boat person just auto mechanics out here in Tucson, with very little water, I sure do appreciate you and your vast knowledge , God bless you and your lovely family!

I've been fiberglassing for 40 years but in the Auto Body repair seen... Clicked on the video because of the itch :( and exspanding knowlege for some BIG upcoming projects :)

Thanks for letting me know about the link in the description. I'll be helping you out here very soon with a somewhat large order. Somewhat large, only because I don't actually have a boat. But, I'm building two hydroplanes for my kids. I'll be ordering some stickers from you to put on both boats as well.

MEN don't have cards. we don't give a shit about what other people think if it works; it works .... that said Good tip Andy .

Yes the luffas work amazing! I use them all the time and they do work. Rinse off first then use the luffa

Great channel!! I have done quite some fiberglass work in the mid 90's, So your channel is a great refresher resource for me since I have my boat. I am repairing my fiberglass swing keel the was cracked in half at the lower 1/3 of the keel. it was split along the leading, bottom and trailing edge. I already repaired the cracked itself, but now I would like to put some fiberglass mat over the sharp bend of the leading and trailing edge. Thinking about using some stretch film. to pull the fibers around the bends. Any suggestion. I found some Nylon release peel. I believe I heard you mention once using shrink wrap. Am I correct? Not sure if it will hold up to the heat and if it will release from the polyester resin. Any input will be much appreciated.

One of the best fibreglass removers for skin is a pet hair roller. Couple of bucks from your local dollar store. Get lots of spare tape rolls. One quick roll pass brings instant relief.

I once had to lay on my back under a 50 foot yacht and grind 2 or 3 feet on either side of the keel, the length of the boat on both sides. It was a scrimp gone bad and we had to re-lay it. I was days with a 12" disc grinder covered in dust. Full tyvek suit, full face mask, gloves and boots all sealed with duct tape. It was a complete horror show.

Come to Southern , Al. You will have plenty of warmth! Too hot to even work on the boat!

Hey Andy, That's a good pure Andy video. I say that cheek in togue but that why I watch :) Good info done your way! Thanks and Happy Memorial Day.

Andy we used compressed air on a really high pressure to blast the glass of our bodies and that seems to really help.

Put a wrap of masking tape around the bristles, leaving about 1/2 out, to use a chip brush to tab in cloth or get bubbles out of resin.

If you are doing a lot of dusty work it is worth getting a powered full face respirator. They are pretty expensive but so much more comfortable, especially in hot heather. They also keep the dust out of your face and eyes.

Hi Andy, had a shocking experience with WS epoxy 105 + 206 that I want to share, so that hopefully others will not make the same mistake. I have been applying this 2c product on the wooden deck of my Finn Classic. First 3 layers beautiful result. Last layer applied in the evening to dry overnight. When I returned the next morning the deck turned milky white almost entirely. I checked the phenomenon on the internet. Nothing to worry about. The hardener has probably reacted with humidity in the air. It'll only be superficial, fairly easy to sand down and then redo. I was set at rest. A week later found the time to finish the job. It appeared the milkyness went through all 4 layers. Impossible to sand down as the sand paper (80, 60, 40 grid) would fill immediately with the white material. Found that the most efficient way to get material off, was to scrape it down (took me 4 days). When done, went to the guy who sold me the WS product. He asked whether I had taken off the oily residu after applying each layer. Should have cleaned with clean water according to him. I said no, so he sensed that that was causing the problem which he had never seen throughout his professional carreer in boat repair. When reapplying the WS products, first followed his advise to clean the first layer ( after 24 hours) with water and scotch bright. The milkyness seemed to slightly return, so immediately stopped using water. Took the rest of with 90% alcohol. That worked fine. I wish I had known before I started.

We're in the same boat over here in Minnesota! Wierd spring for sure.

Uggg was looking forward to the painting video

Baby powder works great!!!

Vaseline gives good relief instantly. It seems oily but after a short while it drys.

Will one of your next projects be fixing up that small sailboat you pulled from the field?

I have taken strips of shipping tape and lined my arms to remove most of the glass stuck in my skin. After about two or three “treatments” almost all the glass is gone.

The smaller diameter of those rollers is also a lot better for getting in tight spaces and they also come in narrow widths than the other style. I have them in 2, 4, and 6 inch widths.

Gloves; Standard 100% rubber medical grade gloves without talc holds well up and I even sometimes do hands on modellings. I only replace when I need clean hands.Pack of 100 costs 10-15 $. Plus securely discarding rolls and brushes etc becomes childs play by just wrapping your spent glove inside out straight from your grip and over to your purge , leaving no wet mess to accidently step on, or put your hands ao. in 2 minutes after. ------------ Rolls; I have only used the video´s last mentioned system ever, as only they make sense to the task. For disposables I prefer those with shortest hairs for lamination as they make less risk for sucking lift to the cloths and also roll out most trapped bubbles pretty well. Anything requiring smooth finish I use micro fine bubbled polyeten foam rolls with rounded edges for close to spray finish. If now only someone could make a similar system fitting alu roll bubble drivers... --------------- Brushes; Amounts of Acetone needed to clean up a brush costs more than a brush and the mess will be most likely be bound to ground. Buy cheap brushes, let the mess stay with the spent brush. -------------- Itch; Nothing works when on the skin except growing a pair and suck it up, but it is reduceable. Do not finedust kill even your wet vacuum cleaner´s turbine by mounting a hose to the grinder. Rather buy a cheap BIG framed axial fan or stack up 2-4 units as a wall (poor mans air conditioner type. Mine cost me 42$ each at the cheapo auto retail, draws just 60W each on full chooch and works great). Create your own suction away from your work area when fiddling outside (use any wind direction to your stream advantage) and put universal kitchen fan fatfilters onto the fan to suction trap the grinding dust when working indoors. Locate fans to vortex the room´s air as best possible. Filters used when outside will collect the dust preventing wind boomerangs and also facilitates for good disposal. Those fatfilters easily sticks on the fan by suction only, no mounts needed as long as the fan runs. When the filters gets clogged, flap it moderately gentle about over a bin or blow compressed air to clear for reuse. Removing any crappy attached grinder filter will make means of grinder exhaust aim. Direct your grinder to blow towards the fan(s) as much as possible. No hose grinders are sweet workers. Wet spray dusts will of course kill your filters. Dont do it :D Centrifugal fans pumps less air, but deals better with resistance of clogged filters ao. restrictions. Good for nozzles. Volume is here better, use axial fans. They are cheap to buy, big surfaced for easy filters, big flow and use less juice pr cubic. Fans are also great for controlled suckthrough when tarp tenting your work area, spots or full. Now you in addition to Kols free lungs, can have a full spraypaint dustdimple and braindamage free paintbooth too, cheap. ------------- Spraypaint wet dusts; Replace fan filters for blow side funnels, leading air to wet tub or make a water curtain/wet wall vortex centrifuge tube project. Easy things that sounds difficult. Just search principle pictures on Goolag. Holes and simple ventilation tubes Tec7´d to a barrel or big bucket with a lid. Restrictions represented, Centrifugal fans now becomes better qualified candidates. High speed axials can cope but now noisier than centrifuges. ----------- Weather conditions; Epoxies and polyesters needs certain range of surface heat and air moisture conditions to cure proper. Ideal surface temp is 15-30*C for epoxy, 5-30*C for polyester. Heat will drive down local moisture by convection. IR lamps/terazze heaters are great but often way too powerful, surface gets too hot. Used as is, they drink a lot of juice. I/O thermostated they makes a lot of temperature swings in your piece. The cheap, simple ones costs about 24$ pr. Buy in pairs and rewire each pair in serial. That will half each elements voltage and double the resistance giving about a quart of original effect pr element. 2x1000W at 230V will give a nice even, easy close mount of as ex 120 cm element lenght spread of about 250+250W of just right steady tepid, when distanced from surface somewhat right. I made two carriable arrays mounted on steady counterweight gallow stands. They allow me to do sucessful work in the snow if so proves needed. In any position. On minimal juice consumption. Also good for speeding up driving out inner fiber moistures of laminate damages and osmosis by core heating. Those redlight poultry chick lamps ought to be good too, I have not tried. I have seen them at 250-300W range, just right omph as is and suspendable by cord as a hanging lamps or clamped to a stick, wall bracket etc. ----------------- Nature; Epoxy makes great structural strenght, shrink less and makes little chemical reactions to other stuffs. Polyesters are great fillers, fast curing and easy to grind. Great for cosmetics, but it is weaker, shrinks more and might cause chemical nightmares to other stuffs. Apply polyester to Styrene for interesting demo example. Now try lamination Epoxy. Polyester is not strong enough to defend itself alone, it needs fiber reinforcement. Epoxy alone actually is. To make Polyester laminate as strong as Epoxy laminate, you will need to thicken up a lot more layers than if you build the same structure based on Epoxy. It will become much heavier and I will argue that inspite Polyester is under 1/3 of Epoxy price to purchase by volume, by extra manhours (outside formworks sprays) and overall material bulk bill, Epoxy base makes for better, more durable and yet overall economically competitive or maybe even cheaper builds, apples compared to apples. And hey, we have now more microplastic particles in the oceans than plankton. IT DOES NOT DEGRADE. AT ALL. It only turns into smaller pieces. Collect and discard as much as possible of your plastic wastes and dusts in a good, proper manner. Where and whenever possible.

Shop vac on forearms work for fiberglass itch pretty much instantly in my experience. Can look pretty funny to onlookers.

Amazing how what you talked about using is the exact same that I use as well. But that was after trial and error on my part. The only difference is the polyester and fiberglass supplies. I use US Composites mainly because they are close and I have received fresh quality resins and fiberglass every time I order. And they ship very fast as well. But everything else is spot on... Thumbs Up!

I use a full face mask/respirator when grinding to prevent irritation around my eyes. A little claustrophobic, but gives me full eye and lung protection.

I have a fiberglass dock box that makes my hands itch every time I open it. How do I treat the dock box so it is smooth and not itchy? Is it sand and and paint/sand and epoxy/ sand and something else? Totally new to sailing but loving the learning.

Hello Andy, Do you plan on applying the Alexseal with the cigar type roller? After many experiments I did find these high density foam rollers work great for Awlgrip and Alexseal top paint only ( does not work well for 2 part primer).I get about 10 to 15 minutes working time before I replace when using top coat. I feel they work better than Corona slicker solvent resistance roller, but like to get your opinion when you paint. Thank you. Learned so much from you.

I've been told by a couple of people that install fiberglass insulation that putting a pantyhose leg on each arm and taping it to their gloves with duct tape works great for keeping the fiberglass out of your skin. Never tried it myself since I always wear a long sleeve shirt and tape my gloves to it. The few times I've had to work with fiberglass cloth with my hands, I've used a large loop of tape (packing or duct) turned inside out so the adhesive was on the outside, then rolled the tacky surface of the tape over my skin to get the fibers out. As for showering, I bypass the washcloth and just use a bar of soap. Preferably Lava... that stuff takes anything off your skin..

Quick question for those who know. i've just bought a colvic fisher with no deck. if i wanted to put in a flush glass deck how can i identify whether the hull is poly or epoxy for bonding to?

I use $3 can of Walmart aerosol hairspray on my exposed skin. It works great. I then tried baby powder to see if there was a difference and it felt like I didn’t use anything at all.

we use baby powder on non face areas, baby powder is water soluble so when you sweat the powder gets pulled into the pores , keeping a lot of glass from getting deep,. I sit under the shower with cold water until the baby powder is rinsed off, then switch to warm and start to scrub

Enjoy your content ,as far as a man card and those woman scrubbing luffas they work I've used them for years and for fiberglass use them pushing them downward toward hands and feet pulls the glass fibers out of your pores I've always used ivory soap work great in the 30 years that I've played with glass work ,

I'm going to give you all a free tip........ Before using your chip brush take sharp scissors and cut back the hairs nice and straight and now your brush will act as a tamper to drive out air bubbles this is a game changer. Andy , I tried the " condom " trick and it kept falling off the extra extra large roller ;)

Holy smoke! Snow?! I'm in Georgia and we have HOT 90 plus temps. Where are you?

How about vacuuming up fiberglass dust - what vacs offer the best filtering?

hey andy have you thought about buying a 3M full face respirator that covers your eyes too? it’s about 200$ but is well worth it if you get dust in your eyes a lot

When I was a kid we would soak a rag in acetone and very lightly wipe the exposed skin, and then blow off the fibers with compressed air. Touching or wiping your contaminated skin imbeds the fibers, and then they're very difficult to get out. Fiberglass rash is one of my most hated afflictions.

Do you gave a video on how to repair a worn or over sanded area on a nonslip serface. Not sure if it was painted or gel coated. As I was wet sanding with 1500 grit on the nonslip surface of the boat gray started showing. Need to get the white color back.

Using duct tape wrapped around your fingers inside out will also lift fiberglass out of your skin. Very handy if it's driving you nuts in the middle of a job.

Do you think thermomoulded acrylic would make a frame for a boat if glassed both sides. Can get this moulded locally but not sure it is strong enough. Want curves but no space to bend ply

what is the best fiberglass cloth to make to make doors

I work in HVAC and I have found the same thing with insulation

The thicker nitrile gloves last a lot longer with the harsh solvents. I buy the 9-mil and thicker nitriles and they will last a lot longer than 30 minutes with a rag of acetone in my hand.

Petroleum jelly prevents most dust from flying around and cleans up with alcohol (2-3 passes). Keeps rust off tools. Dip your drill bits in jelly every 30 seconds and they do not wear out as fast. Do some sample work with it you might be surprised.

Love your videos, Andy. Good info on gloves and respirators.

I use the poof balls too there definitely the best for fibreglass

I’m having an issue trying to use my bubble roller and it picking up the chopped strand and clumping it up. Any tips for bubble rolling?

I prefer a cold shower, just to keep the pores in my skin from opening up more as I'm scrubbing (I install more fiberglass insulation than fiberglass and resin - carpenter by trade). Great tips though, I've been waiting for this video :)

"…I use them every single day, at least when I shower...", Man card re-instated!

Using 1500 wet sand paper. I sanded through the gel coat or paint on my boats non slip surface. There is no hole to repair. How do I repair just the color? Do I paint it or gelcoat it? Thanks

For gloves, be careful, I was using the better thicker kind at work. They lasted so long and didn't rip the chemicals impregnated the glove and gave a chemical burn. Year and half later and my hand still is half scar. That day I used MEK, JetA, wd, spray nine and a couple others.

Shae sugar (gritty soap) works best

Sanded my topside hull of my Cape Dory 28 today How impressed with Alexseal paint r u? I need to make a buy. Will be roll and tip job. I've done some test panels with TB Wet edge. Seems OK but think 2 part will be better. Thoughts?

Trim the cheap paint brush with scissors to make the bristles shorter and stiffer

I have found that by rubbing baby powder on an exposed skin will help with fiberglass itch. It fills your pours and keeps glass fibers from lodging in your pours . Many industrial FRP shops us this method .

I had to throw out a nice down coat once because it was too itchy. I had to wear it while sanding fiberglass one time and it was never wearable again. Just finished restoring a Boler travel T ailer and I hope to never do fiberglass again

What can I do if I inhaled some of the fiberglass dust while sanding or grinding . I feel it went around my mask I was using. I now use a much better one. But I'm still itching.

As with ivy poison oil or with any contact irritant, wear your clothes into the shower to rinse off the contaminate before pulling off your clothes. Undressing before decontamination is the major cause of contamination.

Andy I love you buddy. But are you ever going to finish your boat project?

Could you fiberglass over screw heads?

@13:05 for the itch relief .. you know .. the thing the video advertised?!?!