1. Yes, technically speaking you could just load a bunch of caulk into the gap and call it filled and done. BUT, it will be visually noticeable that there was a gap there and now it's just filled with caulk. The larger the gap the more noticeable it will be. This is aesthetically unappealing. This is your choice. 2. My approach is to restructure the baseboard by filling the gap with plaster, then carving or sanding the added plaster flush with the top of the baseboard. This creates the illusion that the baseboard always reaches the wall, despite the curved wall, even upon close inspection. There is no appearance of a "filled gap". It's just flat and sharp straight flush to the wall. 3. One of the features of Setting plaster is very high crack resistance, zero shrinkage, and high adhesion, while maintaining sandability, or even the ability to "carve" it flat after it chemically sets to reduce dust. 4. I added glue, just for good measure, wasn't completely necessary. 5. The very thin layer of caulking I added over-top acts as a sealant, and being permanently flexible, will prevent any cracks (however un-likely) from migrating to the surface and becoming visible. 6. "Messy" is what some commenters have said. -only on my hands, and it washes off. Really I didn't think it was a big deal. 7. I used my bare hands for the caulk, if you don't have access to a wash pail or sink, I recommend using a wet cotton cloth over your finger. 8. Yes it was a bit of a complicated procedure, but even in a crooked old house theres usually only a few linear feet that need this extra treatment. Everywhere else can be just caulked. Again, the final appearance is your own choice, this approach is perhaps more suitable for perfectionists, not the "just do it good enough no one complains" crowd. 9. The bit about the mixing whisk was just a joke. It was purchased for plaster. Thanks for watching. SUBSCRIBE for videos where I explain things a little better than this video which regrettably I could've explained better.

Why do so many ppl have to criticize everything. Dude showing how he fixes a baseboard gap his way and ppl start complainging about sh*t not even related to it. If you don't like it, make your own video.

I tare up some paper towels and stuff them in the crack just enough to stop the caulk from falling thru ,then caulk it, then get a little bit of water like a fourth of a coffee cup, dip you're forefinger in the water and go over the caulk. That simple, I've been doing that for years. I agree with Carlos about the way he said to tape it off . I always do that first.

Thank you for the great video. I have the same issue with big gaps on my baseboards. Your tips are very helpful. Ignore the mean comments.

Extremely informative and helpful. I'm so glad I ran into your vid, now there is less anxiety and more motivation to finish my project. Huuuuuge thanks!

A damp sponge would've worked better after applying the mud then scraping and left a nice smooth edge of mud in the gap while cleaning the rest of it off the surrounding area and prevent repainting the wall.

I've done this myself too and it held up really well! The only change I'd suggest is to load your scraper with the compound and shove it straight into the crack with your arm parallel to the floor--there's no reason to get so much of it on the wall and then have to clean up later when you really only need it like 80-90% of it to fill up the gap.

Thank you so much for this video! It is exactly what I needed and now I can feel confident about filling a gap between my wall and baseboard.

this was an excellent excellent excellent brilliant idea..i never even thought of using quick set! was going to resurface the whole wall with the 1inch defect i have..omg thanks a million

Thx for the video. I was looking on how to fix my baseboard with the same problem without the overload of caulking…👌🏾💯

Thank you so much for this video. From the comments and other videos, there are multiple ways, but this feels the best for what I am looking for.

Thank you for the informative video. All the construction critics need to come set up a channel so we can roast their work to shreds.

I knew this project was over my head the moment I saw the mixing beaters. Haha.

Looks great, nice job

Thank you for your information. I have a bathroom that was made by a drunk I guess, the walls and the baseboards have a "distant"relationship. I will be using all the paste. 😆 Tip for men who like their wives happy.... you can find endless beaters that have lost their mixers at the thrift stores

This was FANTASTIC! Just what I needed. Thank-you sir! Subscribed.

Thanks for the video. It was very helpful!

Very helpful, Thank you👍

I'm going to do this in my apartment I think because it is horribly unsightly and bothersome; but not enough of a problem that my property manager would fix it. The walls are textured stucco and the baseboards dont even sit flush like at ALL. this sheetrock stuff is going to help me alot

Put it in a ziploc, cut the tip... fill gap and have less waste and mess....

Good job !!! 👍

The hell with the caulk.. who cut that corner? Good god.

Great Idea!

I recommend fixing that corner first. Yikes! Not even mitered. I presume this is an old house, maybe plastered, so the walls will not be straight. This might be the easiest way to fill the gap. Starting over, I'd use a flat stock 1 x 6 and then a cap board on top of that. The cap board can is more flexible and can follow the wall. However, that affects the reveal between the two. I'm still trying to figure that out in my 100 year old house restoration.

You should use a pva such as wood glue. More specifically, tite bond 3. And mix it in with the water first. It will distribute more evenly instead of in clumps!

Good video, and I get what you are trying to achieve here. I personally would have skimmed the wall up to erase the gap completely.

I can't get over the corner joint. How do you not miter the corner. It ruined the video for me.

Thank you for this ,ignore the comments

Thanks.... Had this problem...

Wife still wondering where that went 🤣🤣

Very helpful- Excellent video!

Hehe, great tips! I love what you did with that extra? beater, hehehe.

It is just easier to clean the edges with a damp spunge. Provides perfect finishes.

Omg the beater in the drill!!!! Amazing

I saw the amount of compound you were mixing and I thought yeah this is the right video 😅 I need until you just applied a finger amount of the compound, and then what was the rest for?

🤣 Could make a three foot tall sculpture with the amount of plaster left over

You'll find that your quick set will mix up better if you put the water in the pan before the quick set

How do I remove someone else's bad baseboard gap fix? Also what kind of contractor are you? I need to find someone who does this kind of work for my mom in my area, but I don't know who to call. Thanks.

masking tape around caulking and compound will make a cleaner look and less clean up

What if there is a gap between floor and wall ( where your tape is). I can see concrete in the space , and debris

I'm sure you know this but maybe for others... they do make a small paddle mixer to use with a pan, Dewalt DXTT-2-293

You're not supposed to caulk the moulding to the floor on a floating floor, correct? Just to the baseboard

Lol. U got the tape in ur hands. Whats stopped u to use it on wall and baseboard??

I would just use no more gaps DESCRIPTION Polyfilla Professional X50 External Gap Sealant has been formulated with a unique polymer system for superior flexibility on exterior applications. Ideal for sealing areas and filing gaps that require painting as it remains flexible once cured to resist cracking, crumbling or falling out. Provides excellent adhesion to most building materials, including timber and synthetic weatherboards, masonry, glass, fibre cement, ceramics, most metals, timber and plasterboard. UV, water and mould resistant. FEATURES Paint over time 30mins Flexibility, up to +/- 25% joint movement Skin time, 60mins Coverage, approx 11 linear meters/6mm bead

I have a much bigger gap between a tile baseboard that I wanna install and there’s a situation with the drywall of about a 1 foot length, that I need to fix, it has a half inch gap there. I cannot fix it this way, there must be a way I can make the wall look flush without having to cut out the drywall and install another piece please.

Tools needed. Thumb, Index finger and baby finger.

The trick with the caulking is to wet your finger and put more pressure against the wall and/or baseboard to remove the excess. The water will allow your finger to slide and you can remove the excess easily.

Did you install this base? This can be a fix in certain situations but it appears the base was installed incorrectly. The corner connection does not look good. If you see after you used your finger there is a thin layer that get smeared across the paint/texture on wall. Yo avoid that use a wet microfiber cloth or sponge after you do that to get rid of that. Because it will be noticeable after you cut in the paint.

What's the purpose of the glue-all added to the plaster?

I usually stuff paper into big gaps leaving before filling so I'm not just pushing endless filler into the gap.

Don't have a puddy knife or a caulking gun?

Why not just caulk two layers with second after the first has fully dried??

Hope you told that poor woman where her mixer whisk went 😅 or bought her a new one!!!

Why did you add glue to it?

Can I use 5 min mud?

What about expanding foam? Then cut that down, sand and the caulk over the top?

What about gaps that are more like three inches at the widest?

What does putting the glue in mud do?

I think u've bigger issues here,whoever installed ur baseboard had'nt a clue what they were doing with that outside join or lack of joining 😲 u went overkill with filling a relitively small joint,pack it with papertowel to just below the top of the baseboard,caulk it and let it settle and cure for the day and recaulk to finish it off,job done 👍🙂

I have gap at the bottom of the base board

FINGERS TO PICK THE NOSE, FILL THE BASEBOARD NEED A TOOL

Caulking is a hack. Given the sloppy paint work on the drywall, it is more likely that either the drywall or the moulding/baseboard were not set properly, or either or both have warped. Fix what's wrong; don't cover it.

So... They do have Jerry Rig it, don't fix it right videos on KZfaq😒

The only real fix is take the skirting off and straighten out the walls

this is more like a video of what not to do

Call king 😂

Will this work for a gap that is bigger?

He took the time to do all that but not to do the cuts for the corner lol

BTW you have runny paint, visible nail holes, damages metal corner, poorly installed baseboard to begin with. If you apply a low adhesive tape to the baseboard and along the wall then apply caulking then run your finger along the joint pulling off the tape quickly you will have better results and in a shorter timeframe.

This is a typical sales pitch for the tools shown and the materials used. Then when you do it the way he did it it turns out like sht and you end up calling for someone to do it for you. This is when the wife says for the 12th time "Honey, you spend all your time on the comp and I can't invite any of my friends over cause god for beg they see what the house looks like and all my other friends find out so could you please start doing something or I will call someone to do it for us so again please do something even the dog doesn't want to come into the house".

Lol

WTF??

In the next video will you show how to fix all the gaps in your floor boards?

Appalling technique .

LOL @ the paint runs on the walls.

Who did your mitre cut? Yikes! Watch a video on how to do coping.

How not to caulk-in your skirting/base board ...nice try though!

Those baseboards and paint runs are atrocious

The proper way to fix that gap is to remove the bad drywall behind it and then replace it.

NEVER use your thumb. Use your pointer finger or if you really want to waste time cut out some pieces of cardboard into squares. Secondly just use caulk instead of wasting time making that concoction. This is the reason i can't stand youtube creators that have no clue what they're doing. Your trim isn't cut on a 45 either.

Not very professional

Horrible job.

Now that’s what I call a cowboy job

this looks ugly why there is so much concavity in wall, looks like a cowboy plasterer work

what a mess.. 'HOW NOT TO' Should be the title of this schmo's projects. good grief.