Hi Paul, I too am in Canada. I live on the west coast. I got my first OO train set for Christmas in 1957. And it still gives joy to see it running. Cheers.

I had the same problem and came up with the same fix. Not had any motor problems yet. Crossing my fingers! 😁

@@pedalcarguy HI yes the two small springs are not much use ,so I fit a motor brush spring (cut shorter) in the centre and this works

Ahh fantastic!! Well any problems with it, there's an easy motor fix! :D Thanks for watching, Sam :)

I know - just bad motors - they've been trouble for years! Thankfully that might (touch wood) be in the past now! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

The loco is the disgraceful Heljan 1361 tank. I would love to see Sam rip into it and fix it actually. But it is such a big meme for how bad it is in every way so i wouldn’t mind letting it die.

@@railsofontario3029 Every locomotive deserves a second chance, well, if you can fix it, at least

@@cesarwastaken Well When he reviewed the 1361 he couldn’t access the motor. But I would really like to see what the model would be like if he replaced the motor. Buy the whole model was a mess cosmetically so even if he solved the poor running.

I have the same problem any chance of a part number for the new motors

Heljan and Oxford are a different sort of poor - in my opinion Heljan are fundamentally poor from a design point of view, Oxford are poor due to some unfortunate motor choices and minor design issues! With a decent motor, I'd take Oxford locos over Heljan any day! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

@@SamsTrains I suppose we will have to agree to disagree on that, my experience of heljan compared to yours has been far better and i don’t consider them to be fundamentally poor based on my own experiences of new and second hand models from them and what I have seen, to be honest I would much rather have a heljan model instead of an Oxford model, if we’re talking in terms of motors heljan fit much better motors to their models than Oxford do, we both have our own opinions though.

It takes a lot to beat Heljan Clayton 17 which completely failed much like the real thing . Add to that the infernal buffers to get off to get body off and it really is a coaster . I’ve got lots of good Heljan models but they produce some pups too

Wow, that's even more perfect - sounds spot on, great fix! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

Don't suppose you have a link description of this tramfabriek motor..?

Thanks Bryan - yes it's amazing what a cheap coreless motor can do! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

Absolutely - I'm a much bigger fan of them these days than I used to be ;D Thanks for watching, Sam :)

Thanks James! :D

hahaha it's true - used to dislike them, but now I've found some decent ones I do love them!!

@@SamsTrains We all live and learn... 🙂Keep up the great work! Love your videos! 🙂

Which 2-8-0?? I'm not aware of any that use this one?? Thanks for watching, Sam :)

Thank you Sam! :D

Thanks Lee! :D

There are plenty of videos on KZfaq explaining this it will also depend on which type of 3d printer you have.

@@fenman1954 yes but Sam makes things sound so simple and I want them to print model trains. Other tutorials are based on other things. Also having Sam explain his settings and why will help us all save time…. Hell there are other videos on KZfaq about train motors but we like watching Sam…. That’s why he has over 100k+ subs! Noob!

@@dwaynejohnson4892 noob lol I have been making and repairing model railways for about 50 years trained as an electrician won model competitions for fine scale models yet you with out knowing me state I'm a Noob. Not knocking Sam his videos are good but even he has stated he is a beginner at 3D printing and is learning by watching videos on KZfaq

Didn’t mean you as a person and if that’s the case I applaud you. I used that word because if you think it’s so easy then may I remind you that most channels are sponsored. Without spending precious time on who to believe…. In this world full of ads and sponsors…. I trust Sam and if he’s already done this I would cherish the knowledge as I trust him as a good source of reputable and trustworthy information. He’s a beginner but he does everything based on fact… thus far. Until someone proves him wrong…. He’s the bible in my opinion. So I think you’re a noob if you think finding reputable knowledge online, in this day an age, in the same time it would take Sam to explain it to us 😂☺️ I’m sure your understanding in the things you mentioned above is outstanding. However obtaining reputable info online you may not be…. 😂 after all you’re here in his video commenting as well 😅

Thanks Jack! :D

Hey! No I've not noticed any clicking with mine that I can remember - sorry to hear you've had trouble! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

Thank you! :D

@@SamsTrains of course

That's great news - phew!! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

I hope to yes! :D Thanks for watching, Sam :)

Sure, it's this one - the 10*20mm one: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254679376461

Thanks!

haha thank you - helped pass the time! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

Thanks for watching, Sam :)

Thank you! :D

I agree - some are great for it, others aren't. Oxford sadly aren't - many of their locos have terrible motor issues. Luckily their latest ones have been much better! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

It isn't that - you can clean the commutator and the problem would come right back. Plus these are not supposed to be serviced - there's only so many times you can open up these motors and put them back together again before they fail... even doing this once can be enough to bugger them up! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

Seen this on literally hundreds of motors, very common on N Gauge various makes, as well as OO. Cleaning is just basic maintenance for every motor, and yes, it may come back, but not for some time - it's the slots filling up with carbon - this happens on any carbon brushed motor - the current draw was a great indicator - these should draw well below 100mA, 133 and 166 ish that you saw is absolutely typical of the semi-short caused between commutator plates. In terms of service, while these motors are not the easiest to access, there's no need to fully take apart - either you can access carefully with the right tools via the brush holes to carefully scrape clean the slots, as well as a blast of canned air, or light modification to the motor case is possible to provide a wider access hole - again something I've seen done and done before myself on somewhat smaller N Gauge motors. It is a shame manufacturers don't think of minor tooling mods to make this a standard feature of motors, but then equally they are, I'm sure, happy to sell spare motors at £10-20 a pop. I'm less happy to buy them at that though (!), hence finding out how to maintain the originals, which will outlast the sealed coreless motors (which really aren't servicable, have no possibility for brush replacement, which is a real waste). There have definitely been periods or batches where brushes have been too hard (scoring the commutators badly) or soft (causing this) also, contributing to stuff like this.

Sadly not with this motor - the shaft diameters are different! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

I know! Luckily Oxford did learn their lesson, and their latest locos like the J27 have had much better motors! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254679376461

That's actually a fantastic call - I didn't think of that for this - great idea!! :D Thanks for watching, Sam :)

haha! ;D