Thank you Y Mack! I also use the Rod Floats when fishing from my PBR 10E.👍🏿

Loved the 3 part series! Amazing work! Thank you!

Great video! I was having the same problem with my boat up in the air in the back as well. I'm 175lbs. So what i did was order the extension handle for the minn kota and i sit in the middle od the boat. Works and feel better.

I fish by myself most of the time. I noticed that any breeze would blow me around on a smaller private lake I fish. After getting a small 3.5 hp gas motor I didn’t have the problem as it acts like rudder, as others have described. I’ll use the trolling motor for easing around and the gas for longer moves to different water. Most of my fishing now is on big lakes and the gas motor is very handy. Plus, I like have both a gas motor and an electric…just in case.

Being a Raider owner myself I appreciate the video Thanks

Look at the videos and add a rudder at the rear. Will fix the issue

I have the same boat and had the same problem. I found an old trolling motor and used the shaft and the clamp bracket, and made a rudder. Works great no more movement in the rear

Make a rudder as suggested. You won't believe the difference. I made mine with two license plates screwed to an aluminum pipe with metal roof screws and four zip ties to shape your rudder from the existing holes in the plates. Drill the top of the pipe with a couple of small holes. Screw pipe into a short 2x4 and clamp it to the metal on the stern of the boat. Game changer. A 60 Amp surge protector will help from frying your wires from the 100 ah lithium battery

New Sub, really enjoyed the 3 part series. I've had a Quest Angler 10 a couple of years. I really like the crate under the seat set up. Dont give up on fishing this boat by yourself its all about weight distribution. You may even consider putting the motor in the rear with an extended handle.

Use those old thinner wires to tape to & pull through heavier gauge wire. I ran all wiring for my PA12 electronics this winter when I finally bought some. I use a 8guage marine grade wire from my DIY battery box in back of my kayak. Ran it down though my haul up to the front hatch. That 8 guage wire connects to a dual bus bar that distributes power to my echomap Ultra 106sv, lvs34 system & steady cast heading sensor. I have same voltage at my bus bar & units as directly from my battery. Proper guage wire makes all different, it can cause heat & issues if wiring is insufficient.

I havnt fished mine solo yet, but I think I’ll buy an extender for my trolling motor and scoot my chair back towards the middle when I do

Someone built a wood rudder that slipped over back transom with tooling motor on front. Said it helped quite a bit

I use the 10e . myself , I use my batteries in the boat As counter weights , Run a 50 lb Minn Kota , I fish Alone Alot so I don't sit right in the bow, I moved Back some which equalizes My weight distribution from bow to stern ,I crappie fish and Bass and other panfish types without any troubles with the Few things I do that equalizes My weight , the 10e stability is awesome 👍 , the perfect oxbow Boat especially for a big ole country boys like me , I even put a LiveScope system On when I Crappie fish ,I made the system portable in a self contained box so I can use it on the other Boat when I need to ,,

What is the brand of the seats and where did you get them?

Hey Jeff, I'm Greg and I would like to say that you're doing great job at your channel, keep it up. I watched all the videos on Bass Rider since I'm looking for everything about it. Informations that you've shared about the engine/wires compatibility, a drift of this thing and also leaning forward while solo fishing are very much appreciated, thanks. You made a very nice setup overall. What I can't find is a good comparison video to BPS Pond Prowler 10 (*EDIT: and/or Bass Hunter 120), I would be very glad to see an honest and deep review side by side. I'm especially interested in a real stability test of many similar boats or at least the Pelican alone, like really trying to tip it over by pushing hard on the very edge of the boat. Have you seen videos like this maybe? I know that you're no swimmer so I won't ask you to do it yourself ;) but every suggestion or source would be very nice. Thank you.

Pull through some new wires. Not hard to do from what I understand.

The 55# motor is better for fighting wind and current and if you compare the motor housing size you will see the motor on the 55lb unit is a much larger and beefier unit than the 30# models. Where you really notice a difference is get the "max versions which offer constant variable speed rather than set speed settings as you can dial the motor speed to exactly fit what you want. Also speed wise the larger motor should gain you the same speed as the smaller unit at a lower speed setting again pulling less amps. Another advantage is the variable maximizer models at lower speed consumes a lot less batter power than the 5 speed models as well. You really want to find out what you are missing out on get a trolling that includes GPS spot lock technology and boat positioning or worrying about drifting into the bank while fighting a fish or tying on a lure is a thing in your rear view mirror. That feature does add quite a bit to the cost of the trolling motor but if you ever use one you will wonder why it took you so long to buy one, they are game changers when it comes to enjoying fishing out of a boat on a windy day or in current. I would not consider getting a smaller motor because of the boats wiring size but rather I would upgrade to a larger gauge wire to better match your better trolling motor. I agree on getting the 100amp battery over aa 50 amp battery as running out of juice is a no no and honestly even on a lipo4 you do not want to drag the battery all the way down to nothing for battery longevity. Many times the more expensive brands of the lipo batteries are not that much of an increase in performance over batteries selling for half the price. There are a number of you tubers who really test a lot of these batteries and pull them down inspecting the components and build quality and will tell you which ones are a good value and which ones to avoid. The guy linked below is one good source for battery testing and evaluation. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q52kp5qfzMyncY0.htmlsi=yKiVJ8sq6d830jTf And also if you have not done so already add a rudder to the rear of that boat, it is well documented that these boats of this type design do not track well and the wind will push them around in circles without a rudder on the boat. And sometimes spending extra money buys you features and insurance that are worth their cost, saving a dollar here and there is not always the best decision in setting up something like a boat. Enjoy your boat, its getting you out on the water lipping a few!

I see that you have floats on your rods, but do you use anything to tie down or hold the rods on the sides? One thing missing from these is some sort of eye or loop to run a velcro or bungee strap through to hold the rods down.

You’re a kayaker, and don’t swim? 😳

No way!! I had a 30 lb and didn’t work nearly as well as the 55 lb with a rudder. If you are just casting and not trolling a 50ah will work. I love to troll and I always have the trolling motor in the back so your suggestions are not valid to me. I go out by myself all the time.

I seriously still want one of these!! Great vid! Subbed to ya! Check me out if you get a chance... 👊🏼 Off topic, was that a dead Bass at the beginning??