Yea I had a guy make that for me. Wasn’t 100% happy with it. Didn’t really work out as planned.

@@user-ji1mw9nb4z thank you so much. We haven’t made any videos lately but planning to film soon and put out some new content. Thanks for watching and following along

@@user-ji1mw9nb4z thanks so much for watching and following along.

Glad this helped please let us know if you have any questions

So glad you found our channel. We try our best to put out content that is helpful and occasionally entertaining.

That's so awesome to hear. Don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions, The only dumb questions are the ones you don't ask. Thanks for watching Happy Thursday, go Hustle..

Glad you got some good information let me know if you have any questions

Yes sir we have been very busy. I think that's the case with most trades. Lots and lots of construction going on. Unfortunately I see a crash ahead....

Building projects like this can definitely be intimidating but if you break it down it can be very simple. The key is to remember speed comes with time. Keep it simple at first and as you get more proficient you’ll get faster and faster. Glad it helped and we really appreciate you watching our channel.

Thank you sir I really appreciate that. It’s hard to explain sometimes. I’m more of a hands on kind of guy. Much easier to show in person but I enjoy sharing and making videos to help others out Thanks for watching

Absolutely thanks for watching

There are definitely a lot of tips and tricks to learn along the way. Hope you found some on my videos as there are tons more to learn from others in the trade aswell. Thanks for watching

We use 1.25" sch 10 and sch 40 the stringers will either be 10" or 12" channel weight depends on specs called out by engineer on drawings

Good morning great question. Every rail application is going to be different. Sometimes posts will differ from top to bottom. I will try to put a video together explaining in more detail Thanks for watching

@@MattcoMetalWorks thank you!

@@92weldingandconstruction Divide the height of a step by 2 and and that measurement to the height of your top post. This will give you the centre line height and will only work if the posts on steps are in the middle of the step.

Aubrey

I agree I'd love to see a video on that

Thank you! 😊

I'm currently building 50 sets, for three towers in Charlotte nc. Wished I'd seen your videos along time ago.

Wow that's a lot of rails, Let us know if you ever need any extra help. We travel down that way from time to time. Over in Mocksville working on a project last week.

Layouts help

So we use a speed square. In the field and in the shop. It takes alittle eye balling to find that pivot point but we can get pretty dang close. I'll try to do a video of that soon Thanks for watching

@@MattcoMetalWorks thanks for the info!

If you don't have a template youse a contour marker curveOmatic makes one

So most of the time you’ll have enough to quote the project. Then once awarded it’s up to you to get engineered drawings if needed and then shop drawings also. So don’t forget to add that cost into your bid.

I’ve got a couple vids. I’m trying my best to get more out but haven’t had time lately.

I can do my best it's just really hard to do as most of the time were super busy and trying to get things out the door as quick as we can. But will defiantly try to do Thanks for watching

This is great information. I wish I was better at math. LOL I’m sure I do things the long way most times. Thanks for sharing this

@@MattcoMetalWorks You’re welcome. It’s not necessary to be an expert with trig or calculus. Just knowing how to utilize only a couple trig functions, that you already have on your phone calculator, is all you really need.

@@psidvicious I definitely need to learn those. I always hated math but I also didn’t try very hard. Enjoyed working with my hands

Or are both cuts 28 degrees for the bottom post ?

I think you meat to say Tubing Notcher. We have two machines for that, one of which is the Scotchman 50 Ton Ironworker with coping/notcher attachment for making straight copes. Then we have old faithful which I've had since I started buidiling rails years ago, that's a Baileigh TN-250 for making angle copes/notches. That tool was around $500 when I bought it but runs about $850 now and worth every penny. It's portable so you can use for onsite rail building also, all you need is a vice to clamp it into. Hope this helps I'll ad a link in the description to the Baileigh TN-250. Have a great weekend.

@@MattcoMetalWorks thanks. Yes I meant notched. Wow. Is that white stand used to mock up the landing and the stairs?

@@ajsironworks3937 yes sir it is. We build a lot of these so we made a jig setup. That way we build the upper platform and then just set it on the jig. And from there we build the stringers and rails, assemble everything, grind and it’s ready for primer

Which details are you referring too??

I don’t think we’ve got one other than this sorry. We’ve got some platforms coming up so maybe we’ll get some more footage of those.

Very good question. This is a commercial application so there for it only requires the gaps be 19” or less. For residential they are going to require pickets. Either horizontal or vertical with gaps of 4” or less. Usually when we build residential we make gaps 3.75” or less just to be safe. Also in residential you have to keep a certain gap under the bottom rail going down steps. A 6” sphere can not pass through the opening Check out this link and you’ll find a lot of great information. It all sounds overwhelming but once you build a couple you realize there pretty much all the same after that. The only other thing to keep in mind is at the end of the stairs, ramp etc you need a certain length of rail past the very end. Usually 12” Hope this helps. Thanks so much for watching our channel. Happy New Year. www.wagnerarchitectural.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Guide-to-Handrail-and-Guard-Rail-Building-Codes-and-Standards-1.pdf

@@MattcoMetalWorks Thank you very much! Awesome info !

The Channel we use for these platforms is 12” which is most common for this application.

So 90% of the time we just get our top straight section done, then we cut and tack bottom post in place, once you do that you can measure long to long and get your top rail dimension.

Thanks man. I meant the top rail that is angled as you go up and down the stairs.

@@1963SMITTY yes sir that's right. So where that rail hits the top post and bottom post you just have to measure that distance. and when i say long to long i'm referring to the long end of each angle in that case the angels are opposite of each other. I know that may be confusing

@@MattcoMetalWorks that makes sense. Awesome thanks again!!

I’d have to know that myself in order to teach it. LOL🤣🤣🤣

So for the end posts those are simple as we miter our corners. They will most often be whatever the rail height is such as 36" or 42" as we have an angle cut on them to meet the horizontal rails For the mid posts it's a matter of getting the dimension from channel to bottom side of horizontal rail and adding for the cope. I will try to make a video very soon and actually show you as i know often trying to explain in writing is difficult to get the idea Hope this helps and thanks for watching Will get a video made soon

@@MattcoMetalWorks thanks man looking forward to the video

I can't say that I have because that would be a really steep set of stairs.....

@@MattcoMetalWorks thanks for the reply I appreciate it. Alright that’s what I thought to. So where I’m getting goofed up is when I place my angle finder on the top of the top rail I have 56 degrees. Then when I place my angle finder on the bottom of the top rail it is 34 degrees. This may be a dumb question but does that sound correct or am I completely out of wack. Or could it be that I’m not using my angle finder correctly. Also the weird thing is that the railing angle looks correct. If possible could I send you pictures out what I’m talking about?

@@dcwelding348 send me an email and i'll give you my direct number to send pictures and we'll see if we can figure it out MattcoMetal@gmail.com

LOL yea we had a guy make that for us. Definitely gets your attention Thanks for watching

That’s how we have always done them and will continue to do them. Our customers won’t have it any other way now they know how awesome they look. All smooth and slick. Only pipe rails we don’t grind are aluminum where we lay nice pretty tig welds. Thanks for watching

Yep we usually shoot for 36” on the grab rail. Although code allows between 34”-38” That gives us a little room to play. We set guardrails at 42”

@@MattcoMetalWorks what about children and women

LOL definitely gets your attention doesn't it.

I’m doing a railing with 1 1/2 flat steel, pipe 1/ 1/2 .

What are you wanting to see??

LOL i'm not great at adding music yet. That's something ive got to work on. So many of them will flag your videos for copyright infringement

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