I did the same also waxed it but now I wanna lacquer it. Why do u like it more unlacqured? I'm not shure If I can put clear coat after waxing

@@lines374 nope.. clear needs a clean dry surface to bond to.. hope this helps. ✌🏼

I have a Les Paul with a nitro finish. I think it’s probably similar to lacquer in that it creates a lot of drag when you slide your hand up and down the neck. This results in a slower playing neck than the oil finish.

Super cool! So you have this same kit then?

Thanks for watching, and best of luck with your restoration!

Thanks for watching. Good luck with your kit!

Nice! Yeah, tru oil is probably the easiest stuff I've found. Good luck with your project!

Tru-Oil's main ingredient is boiled linseed oil.

Thanks!!

I know this comment is old, but if you hit it with 00 steel wool or finer after finishing, you will get that nice satin feel.

Ohhh..

Thanks for watching! It can depend. To be safe, I'd let it dry for a week or so, and then see how dry it seems. If it still feels a little sticky or seems a bit too soft, then let it dry for another week and check it again.

I know we talked about this on Facebook already, but I'm going to answer it here too, in case anyone else who sees this is wondering the same thing. I usually wait about 24 hours between coats. You want each coat to dry before applying the next one.

Thanks! The little 3 oz (90 ml) bottle is plenty for finishing a neck. I generally like to do three coats or so.

Not much got on the frets, in this case, so I actually ended up not having to clean any off. However, if you do have to clean any up, just take a razor blade and lightly run it along the sides of the frets (almost like you're going underneath the fret) to separate the finish on the frets from the finish on the fingerboard, and then scrape the unwanted finish off the frets. Hope that helps!

Thanks! I'd probably just use wood dye to get the color I wanted first, and then finish it with tru oil.

@@j.ivguitar8636 would you suggest to mix dye with oil or something else?

@@TheZampa95 I'd probably just follow the instructions of the dye you plan on using to dye the wood first, and then put tru oil on over top of it.

Drips or runs of Tru Oil. 400 grit is good.

It should work. Lots of people do that with good results. You could get a scrap piece of wood (anything will do in this case) and test it with your stain and tru oil, if you want to double check.

Thanks for watching! Well, if you just use several thin coats of tru oil, it'll definitely feel much more like the raw wood, than most factory finished necks. However, there's a high probability that the overall feel will change some. I'd say that it comes down to how much you like/dislike the feel of an oiled neck, and how much of a trade-off you're willing to make. If you can get hold of a piece of maple and do some tests with tru oil on it, that would probably really help you figure out whether you want to do it or not.

Thanks you so much for the good advice!

J. IV Guitar I applied a couple of thins coats like you said and I really like the way the neck came out. It’s got luster without that finished neck feel. That Tru Oil is great stuff!!!

Glad it worked the way you wanted! I definitely prefer Tru Oil to other neck finishes as well.

Just use that blue painter's tape to mask off the rosewood and then go ahead and oil the rest of the neck. You don't want to put Tru Oil on rosewood because it won't dry.

I would think that it should be fine. While I haven't actually tried Tru Oil over abalone specifically, I've used it overtop of other inlays, plastic binding, etc. and never had any issues. Thanks for watching!

Just wait and keep it in a well lit room. Sunlight will darken and yellow light colored woods such as maple quite quickly. The main ingredient of TruOil is boiled linseed oil which will yellow as well.

Never use tru oil on rosewood, lemon oil is good

I would try lemon oil, like Ming Wu said. Tru Oil is more for finishing, whereas lemon oil is more for conditioning, which is what I think you want in this case.

Yeah, it is! Tru oil is great for making a super smooth feeling finish.

Thanks! I use Birchwood Casey tru oil that I ordered from Amazon. I have another tele with a tru oil neck that's several years old and has been played a lot, and it's held up great.

You should be able to. StewMac says those stains will mix with any finish, so Tru Oil over top should be fine.

J. IV Guitar thank you!

You mean the sealer? I'm not sure, but I think it was listed as having a poly resin sealer.

Do you mean onto bare wood, or onto Tru Oil? I haven't done it myself, but I'd imagine it would be fine to apply over Tru Oil, since the oil is technically a gun stock finish. I don't know whether wax straight onto wood would work or not.

J. IV Guitar i mea to that tru oil finish. Ive heard musicman puts gun stock wax on their necks Great video. Keep it up

Thanks! I think you're right about Music Man. I may have to try it out sometime myself now...

I tried to avoid just wiping it all over the frets, but I certainly didn't obsess over not getting any oil on them. With the method I use, I really haven't had much trouble with build-up on the frets. I would be more concerned about getting the wood covered than not getting oil on the frets.

Do you have to keep re oiling it from time to time or is it quite hard wearing

It seems to be reasonably hard wearing. I have another guitar that I built with a tru oil neck several years ago, that's been one of my main guitars, and I haven't had to do anything with it.

J. IV Do you use 0000 steel wool between each coat?

Yeah, not very hard though. Just enough to help smooth it out some and to help the next coat of oil adhere.

I wouldn't put tru oil on the rosewood fretboard, but it'll work just fine on the rest of the neck.

J. IV Guitar thanks

Thanks! Good question. If it's a water or alcohol based stain, then Tru Oil should work over it. If it's an oil based stain, it may not work well with Tru Oil. I'd recommend doing a test on some scrap wood, to make sure that it'll look the way you want it to.

@@j.ivguitar8636 What??? Tru oil is petroleum based. Oil over oil works. Please explain. Thanks, LWW

@@MrLawrence1950 Tru oil also has mineral spirits in it, which could pull up an oil based stain, obscuring the wood grain. Not to say that it'll always happen that way - just that there's such a possibility, which is why it's best to try it on some scrap wood first. Cheers!

This one seemed pretty good in several days, if I recall correctly. I've had another one take several weeks though. It depends on the humidity, and how much you put on.

@@j.ivguitar8636 did you clean with naphtha the neck after sanding so it doesn't have Dust on it? Or you applied immediately the finish without wiping?

Sorry for not replying sooner. I just now saw this. You could really do it either way. Some people immediately start applying the oil, without cleaning off the dust, to help grain fill the wood and get a smoother, glossier finish. Personally, I just give the wood a quick brushing off, and then start finishing it.

@@j.ivguitar8636 i finished the fretboard and it's Great thank you for your video. It was really helpful

@@symptomoftheuniverse1261 Awesome! Glad my video was able to help!

Yeah, it generally darkens the neck a bit.

@@j.ivguitar8636 how many coats do you recommend? Thanks

@@kylepolan3903 I like to do three, but if that doesn't get you the feel you want, you can always do more until you get the desired result.

Cool! I've looked at their kits before. I'd love to hear how yours turns out.