im waiting lol

The bright side is it'll make more content for your channel!! :)

@Andy Kruse indeed. Plus with upgrading the engine, the trans and differential need upgrading too.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks!

Thanks for watching

Thanks! Will do!

Awesome, thank you for the support!

Thanks!!

Thanks!

Thank you kindly!

Thanks so much!

Glad to help!

Thanks 👍

Thanks!

Thanks 👍

Thanks!!

Sometime it feels like I'm the only one having fun, these videos are so one sided. :)

Not at all!

Thanks!

Yeah, sometimes we have to learn the hard way. :)

Thanks for the heads up. :)

Go for it!

I had a busted watch that was right twice a day, so…….😜

You're welcome!

You bet! Edit: Sorry, I didn't see the Super Thanks originally, thank you for the support!!

Thanks!

Awesome, thanks for the support!! 🙂

Thanks!!

Thanks Brotha! Now, about that build, you've got a FF Car we all want to see paint stripes on the road!

Thanks for the tips!

Yeah, that Air Gap Manifold swap is burrowing in and giving me the strangle hold! :)

Rock on!

Haha, same, I think it sounds great! :)

Thanks! Your motor will sound great! :)

Thanks! Yeah, that Lash needs to be redone. That video is coming soon. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel you’re welcome, yeah it’s not hard just takes some time, it can be messy if you have hydraulic lifters and have to set them with the engine running but taking an old valve cover and cutting the top open keeps the oil from spilling over. Looking forward to the upcoming videos.

Cool, thanks!

That's the plan! :)

Yeah, that seems to be the consensus. :)

Thanks! I'll have to check it out. :)

I've been tossing the idea around of doing a Q&A, like a live Q&A, but I don't think my tuner wants to be on video. :)

Yeah, that Lash needs to be redone. That video is coming soon. :)

Thanks for the compliments! The sewing machine has been remedied. :)

Thanks! Yeah, I do like the flexibility that a larger carb provides at the higher RPMs, but I think you're right, a good tune will be the best way. I'm good on hood clearance, I've got the space because of the scoop cutout. :)

Yeah, that Lash needs to be redone. That video is coming soon. :)

Thanks! I figured out that it was just some left over coolant trapped on the plastic fan shroud from when it erupted a few weeks ago. This was the first drive since the install and there were little drops here and there of coolant that I never cleaned up. And since it doesn't evaporate, it was just sitting there waiting for the wind to blow it around. It's all good now! :)

Thanks! Yeah, I've got a few ideas on making the rear a little stronger, just waiting for the funds to do it. :)

Yeah, this is good advice. I have since pulled the valve covers and addressed the issue. That's coming up in a later video. :)

Thanks! I am itching to do new seats, but everything I want is either too expensive or I/m not sure it will look good in this car. :)

Yeah, that Lash needs to be redone. That video is coming soon. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel weird thats a basic thing on a roller build and shouldn't be "off" . wonder if your pushrod length is wrong. Iam sure you have it all figured out by now :-) hope your having fun with it.

I do not recall, but I mention it in my T5 install video. :)

Yes.

It's a Ford Contour fan, a popular mod for Mustangs with 24" radiators. I did a video on it: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g7KCn91p09XSYWQ.html

Altitude about 1800 feet, compression is 10.5:1, and hydraulic rollers. Cam is a Trick Flow, stage 2, that focuses on mid and high RPM, which is where I wanted this motor to be. I will spend more time in the lower RPMs, but I want car to come alive when I'm not being responsible, not while I'm on my way to the grocery store. :) I'm ok with Air-Gap sitting 1 inch higher as I've got the clearance below the hood, but I could get a shorter air filter if needed.

@@AndyKruseChannel my father and I built a 65 fastback back in the mid 90's. We used a Ford Racing 302 with GT-40 heads, came with the Ford B303 hydraulic roller. Mated that to a World Class T-5, from Ford Racing. Used the performer RPM intake and a 600 double pumper. My father, who passed away 21 years this month, put a stock 90's Mustang clutch in it. He too had knee issues. I do remember we used the stock Duraspark ignition and a distributor from a non-smog 84-85 mustang GT. He did however have it curved to the combination. It had 3.50's for gears. Great combination, pulled hard to 6k From experience stick with a Ford Racing cam in a Ford engine. I run and F303 roller in my 351w. Change out your harmonic balancer to a Ford Racing, if you haven't done that. You will feel the difference and your engine will benefit. The Ford Balancer is drilled for 3 or 4 bolt crank pulleys. Use an ARP Harmonic balancer bolt as well. I will in southern California ☹️ where the altitude is maybe 400 feet. But the pump gas is terrible. Just my thoughts.

I had a local guy that runs his business from his personal shop. There are lots of shops out there, but I just chose to go with someone close. :)

Are you close to Vancouver wa? If so I would like to get mine done by someone that knows what they are doing?

@@DieselRC Sorry, I don't live near there.

Thanks for the heads up! :)

Good advice. Small clarification. There are opposing needs in a new/rebuilt engine. The rings need to seat quickly, before the cross hatch pattern in the cylinder walls smooths out. First 50 miles or so is really important, and by 100 miles are so, ring seal is usually pretty close to what it's going to be. On the other hand, there are many newly-established clearances in the engine that need to wear in or seat together...bearings, piston to cylinder walls, thrust clearances, etc. These thrive on gentle to moderate rpm. So the key is to apply some hard pulls very early on to seat the rings, but NOT at high rpm. You can do this on the highway in a higher gear (so the revs build more slowly). Bring the engine to full operating temperature. Starting at a pretty low rpm (maybe 2000, depends on cam), ease the throttle to the floor and let the motor pull hard but not above approximately 2/3 of its max rpm. Let off the throttle and let the motor drag the speed down again. This creates a high vacuum in the cylinders which draws oil up the cylinder walls, cooling the pistons and cylinder walls from the "ring seating pull" you just made. I like to drive along gently for a couple minutes between pulls to let everything fully return to normal temp. Repeat this about four times and your rings are 100% seated. Use conventional motor oil instead of synthetic while breaking in the rings; then, if you prefer it (I do) you can change to synthetic at your first break-in oil change. With rings seated you can spend the rest of the next 500 miles or so driving as gently as you prefer to finish breaking in all the other clearances in the engine. It's a balancing act; key is to break those rings in early and then go easy for whatever you believe is an appropriate distance. There are plenty of arguments about how long it does, or does not, take to break in the bearings and other clearances. However, once you properly break in those rings you can't hurt anything by driving it easy. On the other hand, if you drive it too easy and the rings fail to fully seat you will always have some blow-by and/or compromised oil control.

The radiator is a 24" Champion, 2-row unit and a 1999 Ford Contour electric fan. I put a video out a few weeks ago about this install. :)

185 degrees the fans turn on, then they turn off when the temp gets down to 170. Define too frequent. Ambient temps will play a role (cold days vs hot days), driving your car a lot will play a role, and too small of a radiator will also play a role. All electronics have a service life, crappy/cheap products are likely to have a shorter life than well made electronics. :)

Contrary to popular belief, it is not a great idea to run a street motor cooler than its design temperature. There are numerous reasons for that but suffice to say the designers selected that temperature for a reason (and it's more than emissions). So if it is designed to have a 180 thermostat, once fully warmed up the motor should be running near than temperature most of the time. The only time you want your fans to come on is when temperature climbs above thermostat temp. In other words, the fans are for use only when the radiator can't maintain the design temperature. Ideally your fan thermostat would turn on at least 10-15 degrees higher than your thermostat temperature and then back off at, or slightly above "normal." No power wasted, fans not unnecessarily worn out, and engine runs at its design temperature.

Both. 😁 The old block was the factory 289 that came in this car (I still have it), and the new block is a mid 80’s hydraulic roller 302 that I had converted to a 347.

@@AndyKruseChannel Nice looking engine and dress up!

Yeah, I'm leaning towards that Air-Gap, but it will only be beneficial above 3500 RPM, so I need to determine if I want that extra 20HP the handful of times I take the motor to the top. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel That's a good point. I guess if you're not drag racing, who cares?

Awesome, thanks!

Thanks for the tips!

@@AndyKruseChannel You're welcome. Just asking but did you get your carvwith the plexiglass quarter windows that are pictured in a previous video? If so would you want to sell them?

Yes, I have those parts, but I don't know if they're all there as they were in a box when I bought the car. What did you have in mind?

@@AndyKruseChannel trade or cash?

@@scottford1091 If I decide to sell them, I'd rather do cash. My email is in the "About" tab on my channel home page.

Perfect! :)

I see you are in Washington, maybe we’ll see each other at Ridges sometime.

Money. This car sucks all the money I have, and whatever I can find left in the couch. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel that's why you should sell your cable clutch to me :)

Everything is for sale, for the right price. :)

The radiator is a 24" Champion, 2-row unit and a 1999 Ford Contour electric fan. I put a video out a few weeks ago about this install. :)

I'll see how it goes, I might just have to drop the car off and pick it up later. :)

I'm not ready for the EFI, partially because it's expensive, but I sort of enjoy doing the Carb thing. It's a dying art that I have yet to master. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel If you do eventually go EFI skip the Sniper and go with the Terminator X. RPM air gap and the 1 3/4 Tri-y's from Doug's and you'll be good to go.

Thanks, I think the 750 is about as big as I want to go. :)

They don’t salt here

Yeah I've heard the same from several sources. I'm in no hurry in taking her to 6500, but I do want to just drive her. :)

Thank you! I appreciate you helping my channel, stuff like this goes a long way and says a ton! :)