In regards to modifying the homing sensor, it's come to my attention since publishing this video that Elegoo customer support actually has a gcode file they can send you to achieve the same outcome. So if your new Saturn/Mars printer fails auto leveling please contact support first, and failing that try Geek Detours method (link in video description), and as a last ditch you can try the mod in this video. There is A LOT to cover here so I've gone ahead and chapterized this video so you can easily find the most relevant or interesting sections if you don't fancy sitting through the entire thing. I do of course encourage a full viewing! This video goes DEEP, and gets under the skin of the new S4U and its little brother , and we even take a look at some of the problems this machine and others like it are facing, and how to overcome them. <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="0">00:00</a>:00 - Intro and Overview <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="4">00:04</a>:27 - Careful, this lens cap will fight you <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="6">00:06</a>:28 - Let's talk about heaters <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="14">00:14</a>:12 - Fume Extraction <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="15">00:15</a>:57 - Firmware <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="27">00:27</a>:29 - Setting up a Calibration print <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="29">00:29</a>:39 - Comparing the internal hardware <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="35">00:35</a>:21 - Numbering the test models <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="39">00:39</a>:08 - Let's talk about why tilt release is really cool <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="43">00:43</a>:53 - Build plate drainage model (highly recommend this) <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="44">00:44</a>:59 - THE MOST SATISFYING TANK CLEAN I'VE EVER DONE HOLY SHIT <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="46">00:46</a>:14 - Trying out a new part removal tool <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="47">00:47</a>:44 - Let's talk about the bib <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="49">00:49</a>:48 - Jay3DTech Boxes of Calibration <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="58">00:58</a>:01 - First print results <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="62">01:02</a>:37 - Testing recovery on power loss <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="63">01:03</a>:48 - Second print results <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="64">01:04</a>:28 - The issues with "Auto levelling" <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="72">01:12</a>:34 - What do you do if Auto Levelling fails?! <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="76">01:16</a>:19 - Closer look at all the prints <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="81">01:21</a>:16 - Testing the new Elegoo Mini Heater in cold weather <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="84">01:24</a>:18 - Final thoughts

Hello from the Atlan Forge team! Thank you so much for featuring us! Iam thrilled beyond belief that you like my support work!

The paper tank clean is game changer

I really like these long-format videos because you really dive into great, USEFUL details on them. I'm glad you do both long and short formats.

Just got my Ultra a couple days ago. Love this machine! I can say that putting a flex plate on the build plate is 100% the way to go. I only remove the flex plate, which means I never remove the build plate after each print. So the issues that are particular to this build plate being messy I simply don't have. I previously owned a Saturn 2 with Whambam flex plates, so I was able to buy a new magnet from Whambam and continue to use the two flex plates I already had. The Ultra also allows you to simply run a bit of Gcode on the printer to adjust for the added height of the flex plate and magnet. Previously you had to print a little space and screw that into the plate mechanism. That's gone. You just put a Gcode file on a USB, load it up, and it automagically adjusts the printer for the flex plate and magnet height. So far this thing is a deam.

Printer does what it sets out to do, but the mucking around with the build plate is a definite no for me. Oh and If Elegoo Social are reading this, tell your sales team to allow direct sales to NZ, because right now your sole distributor is over charging like crazy for anything branded with Elegoo, and never has any resin in stock, even if it wasn't stupid expensive

There is a small print on cults that is a spacer to allow the power cable to go out the back while still being able to hook up the ventilation. If you search Saturn 4 it will come up.

Just got the Saturn 4 and my biggest gripe is the way the build plate handle is shaped..... so uncomfortable to hold in a gloved hand. Elegoo needs to taper this thing the opposite way! From the build plate it needs to go from thin to thick not the other slippery way around! Love the video's man you have really helped me on this journey!

Can't say how badly I wanted this review from you!

OMG the review is here. I'm so excited to see it I've had mine for 3 weeks and have been loving it so far

As a novice self taught programmer yes the calibration feature would probably relatively simple to code in the grand scheme. However i wouldn't be shocked if anycubic has some kinda of patent on the function being built into the printer itself. Maybe elegoo has made its function different enough to finally bypass the patent. And the extra charge is to recoup the rnd to justify new patent. And if you think that sounds stupid i would remind you we live in a world in which a spinning icon is the symbol of loading because atari patented minigames in loading screens like 40 years ago.

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="1800">30:00</a> Yeigh! Love to see inside! Hi there James! Oh, about entering the numbers for the exposure calibration - it’s a bit annoying until you understand it doesn’t let you cross up or down with other existing values, right! Cheers, mate!

Let's GOOOO so excited to watch this!

TLDR: 1. Use UV cure time to get the Boxes to fit 2. Use 2s light off delay (Wait before Print)! 3. Don't lift more then 6mm! Why waste time? 4. Don't retract super fast, respect your Mini, love your Mini! >>Once boxes fit

I've been having a good time with my Saturn 4 Ultra (so far.) It's been working like a champ for me. Messing with the build plate hasn't been too much trouble, and the drip bracket you linked looks like a good addition. Thanks as always for a detailed look. Keep up the great work!

I will admit that I got excited over the promise of auto leveling. Though after learning how it works and the drawback, oh boy do I wish I never asked for this.

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="64">01:04</a>:28 It seems that you didn't watch Geek Detour's video before doing your own. He demonstrated a successful, simple way to manually tune each spring tension of the autoleveling plate during a dry print, so that every loose piece of paper becomes perfectly squished between the screen and the build plate, in every area. And he shared a clever trick to easily "save" the correct setting mechanically. So yes, "manual leveling" is somehow possible on the Saturn 4 Ultra, and that in no way implies having to do anything as complicated as what you've tried in vain the other way around.

I have had my saturn 4 ultra. I made a long handle scraper on my A1 that fits in between the posts and i use that to scrape the majoriety of resin off into the vat before i remove the build plate from machine.

Awesome to see some respect thrown J3D’s way. His guide is absolutely great work and he’s been a North Star for my printing journey for sure. Alongside you of course 😊

I've had mine for a couple days now, and I've found the bib is actually pretty handy for drainage if you put the plate on it sideways so that it overhangs back into the vat. The "bolt sheath" bits are almost exactly as wide as the top bib lip, so it's fully supported while it drains and you just have a tiny bit of resin clinging to one edge after that.

Excellent and very in depth for a first impressions video. Keep up the good work!!!

Glad you liked the paper L tank clean method, thanks for the shout out :) Great video, thanks for sharing all your thoughts and experiences. I'm glad you've given exposure to J3D Tech, his printing guide is fucking awesome and I also like his calibration piece. I agree with the build plate and auto level comments, I much prefer a standard build plate (with the 4 x bolts not the ball joint) and to me, auto level is a gimmick that is just not needed, great for FDM printers, but just not needed for resin printers...using J3D Tech's method of levelling from his guide (leveling the build plate in the vat with resin in it) is perfect. I do it once and don't need to do it again and it has always worked perfectly for me. I am also not a fan of these new tilting beds, I just think it is another mechanical cog in the wheel that introduces a number of things that can go wrong, cause problems, or break. I think the Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra is the best printer that company has made, its build quality is excellent with components their other printers don't have and it has the 4 bolt build plate and a non-tilting bed...I fucked the ACF right off and replaced it with nFEP and it is a dream machine.

I got one too! Mine just showed up monday. I had to buy mine though

Thanks for the videos mate ive just pre ordered this printer.

For people who can't get the gardening trays in the right size, you can get aluminum quarter baking sheets, which I think is somewhat standardized for baking.

so would making the pre determined steps for distance after sensor be possible for ellegoo to put in the firmware on screen? then we would have very finite option to adjust that down the road

So i really enjoy your long form videos like this as well as the shorter mini printing videos. Helll, i even like the sponsored videos. Keep up the great work. Ever thought of doing a second channel where you used the minis and terrain in tabletop games?

Heater and extraction means you throw away all the warm you are making. Blockoff-mounting plate is actually a good thing.

Can't wait, I have two arriving very soon. my email says they are in transit and i'm super hyped.

Great stuff, and yes, please make the video about print removal tools. I need something that's as effective as whatever that thingy you have is in my life!

I know others have already mentioned it, but I'll add- there are ways to modify the z offset using gcode. Wambam has a file floating around to alter it for the flex plates (they were slamming the screen and triggering the sensor). Should be able to do the opposite, without messing with the homing sensor. Lots of people saying 'Just give me a manual adjust plate' or 'ill rig it for manual adjust'. Unfortunately I don't think it's possible/a good idea. Maybe on the S4, but not something you want to do on the Ultra. The margin for error with the tilting vat, in terms of repeatable positioning, somewhat forces the need for this style of spring bed. If you were to 'fix the plate', then the bed decided to sit slightly higher, you'd have issues....

Amazing thank you, what layer height did you use when calibrating? 0.02?

For the shit build plate, I would tighten the bolts, IF NOT possible, i will add a split washer at the top. (file it down if needed) This is how we can manually level the plate.

just commenting to support my fellow auzzie!

Mines gonna be here tomorrow, pretty excited. Also, the best part of your videos will always be the babbits at the end. They're so cute and fluffy.

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="339">5:39</a> the sensor seems to be a load cell on the arm, so any forces from the screen and built plate transmitted into the arm would be sensed by it. But since the cap was lodged on the back of the carriage where the linear rail and z-screw go, there's no way the load cell would pick it up.

@ <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="2580">43:00</a> as a Saturn 3 owner, I love the comment about not needing this printer if you already have one.

I use the bib every time (when I remember) and it's handy. You don't want resin getting down in the machine. And before I remove the build plate, I use a silicone scraper to scoop the resin that pools on the top side of the plate and let it fall back into the vat.

I'm an engineer, 99% of the time I do not require extreme levels of accuracy from a consumer level 3D printer. I only make basic fit test models, actual, proper functional prototyping is strictly for CNC or the tolerances would be massively off.

Great review, and as tempted as I am, I love my Saturn 2, so will probably wait for the Saturn 5 or 6. Have my eyes on centauri for next year ATM.

Great videos. Just received mine after struggling with an M5s that I am convinced was just a lemon (after 2 previous Anycubic models that had been fine). So far the Saturn 4 ultra has been brilliant. Calibration tool is awesome and prints have been fast and great detail. The reduced settings, such as speed, makes it simpler too.

So, not all printers support multiple different exposure times at once to find best exposure settings? Does the Flash forge Foto 8.9 allow it? How would I know?

I dropped the build plate on my Saturn 3 Ultra. It bent one of the corners just slightly. I decided to give it a go, it was still level.

G'day ol son.....love the vid..yes its long form but you really covered a lot of ground. this is my first vid ive seen after joining your Patreon and discord. im poor but got a brand new Nova3d Whale 2, its basic and easy to learn on. I generally dont have much issue with leveling as its almost the same as any older FDM with leveling nobs. with the heater i had to build my own which is programable and uses the same parts that are in the heaters you showed today, but mine cab go to 100c if i wanted. i found a video online in feb 2023 that showed how to get the parts, print the housing, and assemble. it works great and i can set min and max temp and it will shut off once at temp😁 from a m8 Downunder...but up in Brissy🙃

Just got my S4U and the auto-leveling fails when my Bambu Labs X1 Carbon is printing fast and vibrating the table I have both printers on. I have to pause the X1 carbon to allow the auto-leveling to work. I wish Elegoo offered an optional build plate with manual leveling or at least let me disable "auto-leveling".

Some observations about this machine having used it for 2 weeks. I'm also in Sydney so temperature is the same factor. 1) magnetic build plate doesnt work with the tilt function, it causes the print to slide. 2) The calibration function is not intuative. 3) You can change the speed setting mid print i.e. start the print in standard mode then move it to fast after the initial layers print. 4) The spout is aweful on the resin vat. 5) If you heat up your resin the machine keeps it warm while running, as long as the machine is on it keeps my resin at between 25 and 30 degrees C in 5-10 degree ambient temp

Hey is it possible to share the cones of calibration with the numbers on it? I received my printer the day this came out and would love to use them to calibrate my resin!

probably because big preorder, the QC is become super lacking, I got saturn 4 ultra and a bit of journey 1. first machine I got crack cover, leveling issue on the printer, print wont stick 2. I got replacement from the seller, when I was checking the machine, the touch screen has lot of line like notebook, so they got me something from warehouse 3. 3rd machine, got home and there line in the middle of the lcd, and I use it to print, there vertical line on the print model where the line in lcd are with or without antialiasing, after that first I remove the vat, I notice hair line crack on the screen, I assume because the auto leveling, there no debris on the filter resin from the vat, vat screw not over tighten and no pressure has been apply at all to the lcd except by the machine itself I haven't heard anything from elegoo and the seller, it's 10 hours drive back and forward to the place, I'm guessing they gonna blame on human error, and if I got replacement LCD myself, I still afraid of auto level might not calibrated well and crack the new lcd too, I never experience this kinda problem years of printing resin, all my old anycubic doesn't have any problem at all.

Great video. Would you guys recommend this machine to print large, smooth solid surface with no detais where dimmensionall stability is needed. I run my fdm moded prusa, did huge (even over 1meter) models with full automotive finish used as master for creating silicone molds. I see potential in resin to decrese workload on smaller prints (like 15x15x3cm), but is it able to print flat surfaces, or is it to warpy and unprecise? Lets assume it will be saturn 4 ultra in a perfect printing environment.

Good to see the bunny's making an apperance.

Great video, a friend has pre-ordered it as his first 3d printer, so fingers crossed his doesn't have any QC issues and doesn't have any issues with the auto leveling. Based on your video I think Elegoo could release a manually leveled build plate and a firmware update to allow for manual adjustments for leveling. So for those who want to stick with manual leveling they have that option or if the auto leveling is broken Elegoo can offer the manual solution as a 'fix'(hopefully fully covered as a replacement part under warrenty or something).

I’m a beginner in resin printing so I was leaning to the uniformation gktwo , should I go for this instead , I’m a bit torn tbh but I trust the opinion of a fellow Aussie

@OnceinaSixSide really important point! Those 'axed' settings are super useful to still have access too. I was having issues with the parts near the z screw not peeling fully on burn in layers. I simply added a lift height with Lychee slicer for only those burn in layers and BAM never had a failure again. While I highly doubt the lift height for normal layers are going to be useful other than for say some of the weird rubber resins it's a real shame for Chitubox to remove them completely.

I got a brewer's belt because of your heater video. Turns out it worked TOO well, I had prints warping and failing. Turns out it was heating the resin to about 35C. I'm also in winter in NZ. just got the Saturn 4 ultra, Turns out after the printer runs for 20 minutes, the resin get heated to about 26C, which is just about the ideal printing temp for the elegoo abs like resin I'm using.

just did some tests for my ultra it seems my leveling is good , thank goodness

YES! I've been waiting for this video! hahaha, I already ordered both the printer and the heater, but I like your videos and reviews a lot, let's see if I don't regret the purchase lol, I'll edit if I have anything to add after the video x"D

I have a question about FlexPlates für the buildplate. Elegoo says to don't use it, because it can desturb the leveling process. But what exactly is the problem? Didn't it just set a new zero point, and that's it? I'm a completely beginner. This will be my first printer. But a flexplate seems to make it easyer, to get the prints safe from your plate.

Some of us like to print bases flat on the plate. So that is a big issue. One thing you should look into, it looks like there are more bolts with caps over them on that build plate. Is it possible to adjust those to lock the plate into that state of compression like other newer style build plates?

I have the ultra 3 and ultra 4 - I wish elegoo would allow you to order the ultra with a green hood - looks so nice

Greetings from Tasmania. Thanks for such a detailed video. Stayed and watched for all of it and learnt alot. Am thinking its time for an upgrade from my sonic mini 4k to print larger models now. 🙏🏿

Is the build plate meant to move up and down a little while running the calibration tests? Mine is and i thought the plate only moves up for a layer change

Pro tools does resin calibration without the faff and you can label each exposure test with the exposure value - not convinced they've made it a lot easier yet!

best removal tool I've is from the Amerivault set, specifically the one that looks like cake icing spatula. Soft corners with a nice sharp edge to get under rafts and nice and flexi blade with a good reach. The pallet knife style spatula's like that I've not had great luck with, don't get under the rafts that well in my experience without modifications.

Important note on resume on power outage: the longer it takes to resume printing, the harder it is for new layers to stick to older layers. So if a few hours have passed, and you weren't there because you went to sleep or been doing something else, expect a failure.

I'd be super interested in a comparison in pull forces between this and the non-ultra. To investigate if the tilt allows for less/lighter supports

Thanks for such a comprehensive rundown on the printer! Very interesting and I'm so on the fence about buying this. I'm curious how much a flex plate would make the printer better to work with, as you wouldn't have to interact so much with the build plate as you say.

Live in Texas, that is typical winter temps for us too. Hitting 0C aka 32F or lower causes mass panic!

Labeling test prints is SUPER easy in 3D Builder if you have a PC. Load the STL, find Emboss (either edit or object), type, set your extrusion, and done. For removal, a thin palette knife from an art store is perfect.

It's crazy what a game changer that dumb little spatula thing is. I had picked up 4 or 5 different scrappers that were all problematic. Then i watch a J3D video where he mentioned that thing, and i ordered it out of desperation. I it the best cheapest upgrade ive ever picked up.

Holy God 1hr+ video. You beast.

Mfw when your winters are 50-60deg F and I pop shorts on when it gets above 20deg F 😂

The thing is, if the built in heater of the GK Two is an extra point of failure waiting to happen; what does that mean for this printer's tilting platform that also has a border gap to allow resin into the inner workings. 🤷‍♂

I love your videos! Definitely a lot to consider with the fancy new printers. The Sunlu ABS-Like is currently my favourite resin. The Toughness, at least in my environment, has to be cured within a couple hours or it'll become gummy, brittle, and de-laminate details. Thanks for bringing Jay3DTech across our radar! I've got a few applications beyond minis that I'd like to print for, so getting a better grasp on and better dimensional accuracy out of my printer is valuable! I also print a lot of bases flat on the build plate because l a z y. I prefer dealing with the elephant's foot over sanding bottoms flat. I have struggled with leveling my Mars 2 Pro properly on multiple occasions, and it's actually for that precise reason (oddly enough) that I'm extra worried about the tradeoffs and potential pitfalls of "self-leveling" build plates. Plus, I genuinely despise the extra mess and resin waste the Saturn 4 build plate design creates. Also still peeved that only the Ultra has the exposure range finding tool. I think, for my preferences, the Saturn 4 range will be a pass for me if I decide to upgrade soon.

I haven't gotten to try my S4U yet but I will probably only use it for miniatures or statues and use a filament printer for prototyping and cosplay. I'm not too worried about the self leveling problems. However this is my first resin printer so I hope my experience is good.

Can lychee take advantage of the exposure calibration?

A recommendation. I just got mine in this past weekend but after seeing everyone kind of struggling with bed adhesion I got a whambam xtr magnetic build plate. It makes everything much easier.

i wonder if its possible to have range finder in slicer. Like adding additional layers with 0 lift distance and 0 size. I don't know if you can change settings per layer.

Enjoy watching your videos as you have a different approach than most which is refreshing. Only gripe I have is that your videos are quite dark and its sometimes difficult to see things, especially when the whole machine that you are reviewing is black, definitely would be nicer to get some lighting at the front to see things clearly.

I will say as someone who for a while had their printer out in the garage, where it can get pretty cold here in the pacific north west, and had to frequently go outside to check if a print had even worked in the first place due to a lovely game of musical problems (had the old first gen photon for a while, was a nice entry at the time but I was rapidly becoming aware of how dated it was becoming. One minute its the calibration, the next it's the temperature, then it's the calibration again for some odd reason, then my film got scratched up. just a whole fun time near the end), I would actually have enjoyed having a camera to save myself the trouble of a walk outside when the print was good. Now does it need to be a base feature? no, honestly I think it would better serve as an accessory, and honestly one can cobble together their own setup with a cheap wi-fi connected camera or a baby monitor. But definitely a case by case usefulness. Sad the auto-leveling is not as useful as the companies probably hoped it would be, but at this point I'm fine with just having a spring loaded two bolt or the 4 bolt free leveling on that Anycubic mono. At least it's not the one bolt ball joint I suffered through for a while. Based on this video and other's, I'll probably be looking at the mono 5s as a new printer, but sadly my current housing situation doesn't really give the ability to get a new printer yet. I don't have the space to either have it out of the way or properly vent a resin printer right now, and I don't want to do the same garage setup I had with my first printer when I get home from college. Too many evenings going out in the cold to then learn a new issue occurred and I not have to do a whole cleaning job to try and troubleshoot later.

You recon one of those heaters would work with an FDM printer? I print a lot of composites on a K1C, and a chamber heater would make a difference

Be sure to include a good quality paint scraper in your comparison video. My SV-08 came with one of those spatulas and it seems to have its uses but I do prefer the sharp-but-not-too-sharp paint scraper since it is very tough and can be used as a jack hammer on very tough prints, plus is dead simple to clean up. I agree that the build plate design is problematic, but if you print job after job using the same resin, there is no compelling reason to clear the build plate. Still a problem with handling between jobs, but as you mentioned, a tray will simplify that quite a bit. It does spill a lot of resin and for the first time I've found myself recovering some of it between jobs. My resin of choice? Sunlu ABS-like. Using super-clean rinse methods and air drying before curing, I've never had such great results.

Side thing, but if you designed an attachment point for the fume extraction, you could also make a custom holder for the heater that is vented (or modify the stock one) so you can have both.

I run a 3D printing business and have a farm of Saturn 3 Ultras. I don't want to upgrade to the 4 ultra because of that you mention at <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="66">1:06</a>:00. The new ultra has way too many moving parts and sensors, which means lots of possible failure points and that is something I do not need. Not only that, but the ACF film that has the tuned profiles in chitu pro results in faster prints and for my use case, speed is really necessary; if I need higher resolution, I swap the vat for one with an FEP film instead.

Do you know if it it's a decent idea to have the saturn 4 ultra on my bedroom if I use a fume extractor like yours + I have the printer inside a still air glove box?. I would like the toxicity to be close to 0% as I would be spending a lot of time in the bedroom

what layer height is the 2.2 s for? i print 0.02mm LH with 1.3s ET

Wait, you said you can run rerf on any Anycubic machine? I have a Photon mono 4K and a Mono X 6K, can I run it on those? Also, it's a SUPER miss that the Saturn 4 doesn't have the range calibration. I'd buy 2 if it did. Also, could you release those test stl's with the added numbers? please? lol. Also maybe I am doing something wrong, but on my Mono X 6K at 80% brightness my exposure for the exact same resin is 1.5 seconds..

Right as I was about to sleep

I noticed when it says "calibrating mechanical sensor, do not touch machine" if I even bump the table it's on, I'll have a print fail.

Yes Open source the code!

I was quite hyped with tilt release but with this video i'm a lot nerveus with the bed user experience, im indecided if i wait for the global launch of this machine or go for a saturn 3 and wait for a manual level with tilt release

I tihnk the autolevel-buildplate-thingie, is due to the lever action of the fep - I have a feeling that there is a non-zero change that the surface will be at the exact same spot after every cycle, like it would be for a static glass surface

Oh I just got to the part where you put an Anycubic built plate on an Elegoo printer on your magnets video. In this Elegoo Saturn 4 ultra video you talk about how you don't like the auto level... Could we regain height and just use a manual leveling bed? Could be worth looking into and trying. 😁 Also installing a wham bam magnet plate would be great and if you have to adjust the homing trigger to account for the added build plate height.

can you add a flex plate to this printer?? with the roller mechanism and the "auto leveling"?

Thank you for bringing the auto leveling and compression issues into the review. Elegoo have sent me a gcode file that adjusts the thresholds for auto levelling, and a second plate, because the plate was off kilter. It still has the issue, and they're not really doing much to help... I've burned through 3 release films in a week because the low layer supports keep getting pushed into the film at the "high" spots! I also print a lot directly on the plate (flat bases, volume orders, worked fine on my old Mars), and this is causing no end of headaches right now. Elegoo support basically taps out at "don't print on the plate lol" with no acknowledgment of the problem 😔

What are you using for fog on your miniature reveals.

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="1920">32:00</a> The WILNX17 seems to a clone of a Lattice Semi FPGA, given the proximity to the gold ribbon cable for the display I would assume it is being used as part of the display driving electronics. Super cool chip though. The "CPU" chip is the smaller one to the right with the ARM logo. The two board are probably different generations/versions of ARM chips.

Hello ONce, great video so honest and sincere! I am interested in buying this printer but the auto leveling stuff is quite worrying. The alternative is the mighty REVO but for triple the price. HOw about a flwxible plate? I used them for years and I am not going back. What would happen if I install one in this printer? Will the sensor activate or I will crush the LCD screen? Many thanks for your time. (one a side note, NEVER use the plastic scraper to remove the resin from the vat! you can damage it. Use a sylicone spoon or whatever.)

Man, I do NOT miss liquid resin 3d printing!

Great video. Here have done some fdm printing. And wondering which machine you would recommend? Also one suggestion, if you can increase the lighting a little that would help with viewing experience.

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="73">1:13</a>:10 Nope… it will detect the pressure against the glass to determine where/when the build plate touches it. Moving the homing sensor is won’t have the effect you expect (now I will unpause and see if you were right).