Print some things to send to CNC Kitchen for strength testing.

I need to see you bake cupcakes in that printer!

I like the pop up info when Joel mentions odd facts. Makes it easier for everyone to follow along.

Print some samples for CNC Kitchen, so we can get some strength numbers :-) That would be a cool collab.

Finally a 3D printer that can make stuff that will survive in my engine bay.

So I have used the Intamsys in the past and it really is a cool machine. A few things to note though: The models you printed don't really represent the parts you would typically print on such a machine (or with ASA for that matter). If you want nicely detailed prints, you would go for PLA on something like a Prusa. Where this printer is interesting is when it comes to engineering tasks (printing end use parts, fixtures, jigs, tools etc.). Many companies use PEEK, PEKK or PEI because they are rated for UL94 V-0, FAR 25.853 or OSU 65/65. I like your videos, don't get me wrong, but for this one you sort of missed the point in my opinion. Try printing something that shows of the crazy stiffness and strength of these materials, not just toys and figurines! :) Typically users print gears, flame retardant covers, high temp use cases (something in machinery or engines) etc. For the adhesion issues, I would recommend Magigoo (at least for the low-temp stuff). It usually makes the removal quite a bit easier or at least provides a thicker coat which is easier to wash away under tap water. From my experience letting the parts cool down also helps (I know you said the opposite in your video). Adhesion solutions like Dimafix for example have graphs that show that the adhesion is weaker when it is below 60 degrees and strongest between 100 and 120 degrees. On top of that you also have the shrinkage of the Polymer when it cools down which sometimes even makes parts "pop" off. If you want to be a bit risky, try putting the glas plate in the freezer directly after a print. I do it all the time and did not have any issues, but if you're unlucky it could shatter the plate. ;)

I actually couldn't care less about seeing more ABS prints, but I'm very interested in seeing prints with high temp materials. PEEK, PEI, some of the engineered nylon family materials etc. As for what, I'd love to see some precision parts, gear sets, and functional parts. I'd also like to see you print some mechanical parts and test them under load.

Wow. Lots of possibilities for sure Joel. Looking forward to your future prints with more exotic filaments. Thanks!

Print a cupcake mold, make the cupcakes in the printer after printing the cupcake molds.

Ok, so interesting indeed. Perfect even for my little business, I was considering something similar for motor parts. Looking forward to seeing more about this.

It is nice to see more video about other materials and stuff that other channels doesnt talk about, keep it up

Wow Joel, that is a great printer, nice enclosure. Great build quality. So cool that it can print PEEK, pity the filament is so expensive. Thanks for showing this.

What about parts for your Giant RC car???

Please print an injection mold insert, and I will test it for you. This sounds like a perfect solution for low volume prototype injection molds.

I could never go back to glass for a build plate. long live the powder coated spring steel sheet!

That glass fusing with the abs is a known problem of that type of bed. The same thing happend to me on a uktimaker 3. I solve the issue using Elmer's glue stick on the bed acting as a release agent. Works perfect, you can let the bed cool and then the part is easy to remove.

CMON MAN! You teased PEEK over 6 months ago, please print it!!! I'd like to see some of Stefan from CNC Kitchen strength test files printed. Then ship him them, and have him run strength tests! A good collab video! Or swing on it in your backyard again 😉 maybe a few gears for the open F1 RC? See how those hold up? If I'm gonna spend $6k on it, I wanna know the material lives up to it's claims.

looks like great slicer !

You think the machine is expensive those rolls of PEEK are really expensive.

I love TonerPlastics ABS and PLA, Makerbot, Microcenter, SeeMeCNC all used to resell their plastic. Not sure if they do anymore but To this day I still keep going back to it.

What are your favorite PET-G prints? I just got ~100 sample spools in bulk

Print a measuring cup or other kitchen accessories that you can dishwash! Awesome!

Great video. Please use the high temp nozzle and print some test hooks for @CNC_Kitchen 😃

Print something in PEEK that you would normally make out of metal.

E3d premium abs is sabic mg94 ABS, which is what stratasys has been using since the 80s and is the defacto standard in printable ABS. As for what to print in high temp stuff, it’d be cool to see some of these parts implemented in the openRC! Also maybe printing some replacement parts for the prusa in CF peek?! Talk about increased rigidity!

to protect glas buildplates you can use Printastick (it provides perfect adhesion, while also actingg as a separation layer to the glass. PETG also likes to grab on, I always use printastick whenever I print Petg, ABS or other stuff. can't afford delays due to failed prints for my element14presents videos.

I lucked out and happen to live in the same city as 3dxTech. They have damn good PLA. And the walk-in discount is nice. Lol

Hi Joel! You can try to print those plastic bushings from your RC car with these high temp materials to see if they can hold up.

It is cool to see new stuff (I know that this has been around for a while but cool for us to be able to see) You should work with Daniel Noree to build a differential joint and transmission for the Open RC car, that should put it through a lot of stress and we could also see if it is any more wear resistant to the frictional forces in the car.

love to see a super fast print with PLA at those temps. the hotter the faster you can push filament through. the less time the filament stays at the hotend the cooler it will come out without damage.

450C sounds hot enough to extrude tin, lead, and zinc based alloys. Though I suspect a plastic extrusion range is useful for standard FDM printing.

Love your vids, need help with my first printer

The low temp hot end does have a ptfe tube in the lower section! The peek tube is only on the cold side of the extruder. It wears out and will cause skipping like you are experiencing. Need to replace it often

I think it would be cool if you did some stress test videos of the engineering grade filaments.

First time i see the Joelbot. That’s hilariously accurate. Haha.

PRINT HAMMERS! This is a super easy control comparison for all your different strengths of filament! Also testing them would be just plain destructive fun!

What about repeating your strength tests with the new materials?

It would be cool to see a bracket for your spool shelves and test it with Bill again. You could use those fancy materials.

"He doesn't stand up on his own" -Joel about the Joelbot "Just like the real Joel" - Sean. "hahahahaha!" Me You are not just my favorite 3D printing channel, but one of my favorite youtube channels. I think it is because you are funny, likable, and honest in your reviews. So many other 3D printer channels are way too easy on their reviews and hide the bad stuff.

How about printing the Prusa MK3s fan duct in PEEK? That will make the problem with "melting" fan ducts disappear :-)

Can you make some better parts for the F1 car? Pulleys, bearing etc.?

Go Funmat Go. A great review for a Reasonable price printer. Looks like a nice little printer.

I like your videos. Highest of Fives to all.

Scraping prints off the print bed is a non-starter for me now that I have the Prusa MK3's removable flexible print bed.

Could you use a heat gun under the build plate to help loosen the print? It would help with the removal.

I used to watch your videos a couple of years ago, before I started listening to metal(my new passion) and it’s great to see that your channel has tripled in size since than. I hope to see you reach a million.

Looking very brown and shiny there Joel

I was waiting for PEEK. Everyone prints ABS w/enclosure on printers 10 times less the price, it's not a big deal.

The only insane thing about the price is the value you get with the build quality and performance of these machines especially the Pro310 IDEX!

Very concerned about removing models when buildplate is still hot, sounds more like "work-around". With my experience, slow and even cooling of buildchamber for ABS part is a must in such scenario. Heated bed messes with printed part temperature, making cooling process even more complicated. By the way, is there an option to print without heated bed? I would definitely tried it if it's possible. Also, thank you very much for the review. I've been waiting for this machine to become more popular, since it allows so much more than usual printers. Hope to see more :)

Hi joel i have a question can you put PLA prints in an tattooiest ultra sonic bath and have no issues with it or will it damage the print. Thank you.

Oh Joel. Your inexperience with abs is surprising. It prints this well on the prusa mk2. You need to get with the program. I’m surprised they went with glass, that’s old tech and there is so much better now. Matterhackers build abs is quite good. I’m sure they’ll send you some.

Drinking game, every time the gloves come off or on, take a shot. :-)

the problem with too well adhesion to glass can be fixed with putting some water around the edge of the model. it can even help when cooled down to room temperature already. Works for me with PLA after cooling down on a ikea mirror when prints are too well stuck. just add some water around the edge, maybe try a bit to get lose, but often just wait and you can hear it crack loose or hear nothing. 1 min later and it can be removed with ease

I want to see the strength test prints with the engineering materials

3DPN talking about 3D Printers and 3D Printing again? OMG!!!

I broke off a chunk on my borosilicate glass plate too. I did the same thing... I printed it in abs, and then let it cool overnight, and when I removed it, I ran into the same problem. So now I just let it cool down slightly so I can handle it and then remove it. Live and learn I guess. Joel you should make some peek egg shapers for cooking. That would work right?

Hi Joel, How about using the Peek to print a tool that you can keep using long after the printer is gone. Perhaps a mallet or something.

Would like to see an ABS comparison between this and something like the UP Box.

I want a snapmaker and now I wonder whats your thoughts about it. It will be my first ever 3d printer and I try justify it by that it's 3 in one machine. But is the 3d printer a good printer?

Abs is very hydroscopic. I print more with abs than with pla and leaving abs set for any period of time in my house not sealed up would result in bad prints full of bubbles from the moisture boiling out. I could literally see steam spurting out of my printers nozzle as it printed. I've had to bake my abs multiple times to dry it out. My pla works fine even sitting out for weeks- months at a time. The only pla I had an issue with absorbing moisture was wood fill.

2:06 Nearly guessed it But still a few thousand degrees off

6k and the the glass pulls off with the prints? Does it come with a jackhammer?

I love using ASA for Lazer Tag and Nerf parts. Durable (a little harder than ABS) and very strong when you get the layers to adhere well. Stick with a PVA/glue stick for bed adhesion with your ABS and ASA prints. Use a little isopropyl alcohol to get it off the bed. Keep PETG away from the Borosilicate plates because it will never let go. You should make some of your F1 parts out of the PEAK/Carbon Fiber and/or Polycarbonate before you send it back. So, can it print pewter miniatures using ROHS solder as the filament? Maybe something zinc/lead instead?

I need to know how you do that glove trick! :p

print an old school peek extruder. please.

Printing titanium 😍😍

Would Magigoo help with part removal?

i have seen ABS break glass before, but it is much more common with PETG. Adding things like glue actually helps prints release without breaking the glass rather than making things stick even more.

Hey Joel, As I was in the hardware store this week trying to fix a plumbing problem. I saw the PVC pipes. Can you print PVC with this beast? if so. Can you print a plumbing fitting? and could you plumbers glue it to a standard PVC pipe?

Joel what do you use for the wood on the wall behind you?

For a good ABS you can try Sunlu filaments.

huh when i print on glass the part pops off when it cools down. maby its different glass.

"Oh, no, it wasn't the airplanes. It was ABS killed the Beast." ABS took a hunk of my plate, too, hahaha. I know those feels.

I hear Kodak makes good abs, but I haven't used it myself.

Would be cool to see if you can print a Lego kit with abs and how are the tolerances? Metal filament lego's? Not sure if the Lego trademark would be an issue but would be cool to see.

Hi Joel. The build plate removal process is brutal and this will put off a lot of buyers. Can you try the process I use on my ender 3 glass mirror plate where I have had 100% success since I started 18 months ago. Rub a blue glue stick over the glass and then with a wet paper towel remove all of the glue. The prints get perfect adhesion and when the printing process is finished I let the plate cool. When I hear a loud cracking sound usually at room temp the complete print can just be lifted off or slid of the glass. I would be interested to find out if this works in this enclosure.

i've love to see you make a Prusa MK3s but replace the PETg parts with all PEEK or Ultem

are you going to re-print some of the RC parts in the engineering grade materials?

i want to see what hepens with pla at 450C pleas

How does it handle the bad fumes?

print a new gearshift knob out of real material

You should do a test comparing strength test comparing abs being printed on this vs a standard printer and compare conventional materials to these special materials

Cool video. Looks like a capable machine. Since it's hot as the sun can you show us printing lava? Mahalo for sharing! :

My BukoBot V2 Duo chipped the glass a few times with ABS.

You could print your own pei sheets for your other printers!

4:14 My immediate thought was, "Oh *that's* what the bottle of acetone's for!"

Out of Curiosity have you tried WolfBite from Airwolf 3D .. I use it with my Axiom printer by them and WOW its amazing. NO I do not work for them I am wondering if you can use it with that printer. Might make removal easier. Worth a try .

I would like to know if this printer can cope with TPI (polyimide). Also, that bed looks like it could be a real pain trying to remove something delicate.

Trying to figure out why this machine doesn't have a removable flex plate.

I was hoping to see some of the high temp plastics printed and get a look at their quality. Next time maybe?

Does this mean you can print printer build plates?

removing the print when the build plate it hot has the problem of warping your print as you try to lift it and it bends because the PLA is still warm.. so give it a few minutes to cool a little

Insane specs for an equally insane price.

Very cool! I do have to ask though......what to do in geometries when supported is needed when printing high temp materials. I do have access to a Fortus 450 at work and their breakaway support for ULTEM is godsend If you were to print ULTEM in this machine and need supported areas what is the solution (short of devising your own support system in SolidWorks?)

And this is where magigoo and such are great as release agent as well as bed adhesion..

Nice sous vide machine! ;)

Finally, Rob Lent is awesome

I use baby powder before I print and it helps a ton.

I couldn't see much difference between the hot ends - are there subtle differences, big ones I just missed, or are they identical? It's a good idea not to mix plastics that melt in different ranges so that's my guess...