Fitting the Bust Dart

Fitting the Bust Dart - Part 2

Рет қаралды 3,788

Күн бұрын

This week on Fit Tip Tuesday, I'm continuing the topic from last week... "Is Your Bust Dart In the Right Spot?" (If you missed it, check link below). After posting this tutorial, I got questions about adjusting the front to make more vertical room for the bust. It's tempting to cut across the front bodice pattern and spread the entire piece to add vertical room. This does lower the bust dart and it also lowers the fullness of the pattern a little bit. The sticking point is that you need to make a like adjustment to the back bodice so the side seams still match in length. Usually, if you need more length for your bust, you only need that length in the front. Join me for this tutorial and I'll explain how to lengthen the front while leaving the side seams and back bodice unaffected.
00:00 Intro
00:42 Why Lengthening the front & back bodice equally isn't the best choice
03:04 Tools needed for this tutorial
03:55 How to do a Full Bust Adjustment to add length to the front
10:43 How to Finish the Bust Dart at the side seam
13:10 Enter to Win an Oliso TG1600 Pro+ Iron & Ironing Board Cover
14:55 Outro
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Пікірлер: 47

@lisamccaff9217 8 ай бұрын

As a new sewist, can I just say I really enjoy your teaching style. Struggling with this FBA (this is muslin number 4!) so I’m going to try this method now.

@JSternDesigns 7 ай бұрын

My pleasure! I'm so happy you've joined us in garment making! Thanks for watching

@chestnut27860 5 ай бұрын

I really love that you're going into depth fitting the bust. I have a smaller bust, but I'm needing to choose a pattern size based on my upper bust to fit my frame above the bust and then fit over the full bust as I fit down. And if the contest for the iron is still going on, I'd love to have that cool little guy for my cutting table or in our camper van where I sew on my featherweight :)

@JSternDesigns 4 ай бұрын

Thanks so much!! Sadly, the contest is over... and Oliso has come out with a new improved version of their mini iron... I can't wait to get my hands on it!! Thanks for fitting along with me!

@Sososewist 8 ай бұрын

Another great tutorial! Thanks so much for your efforts

@JSternDesigns 7 ай бұрын

Thank you! and thanks for fitting along with me

@nikkibaker1937 Жыл бұрын

Best description EVER!!! I know that your contest is long since over but... I would (& will for now on) iron my bust darts upwards. I've always wondered about that. And now I know. 😁

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

Thanks so much! ...and thank you for watching

@Ana-ns8fs 2 жыл бұрын

You are amazing! I love this tutorial. I always had a hard time adjusting my C/D cup and I did all kinds of full bust adjustments, and this one did it! Thank you so much!

@JSternDesigns 2 жыл бұрын

I am so happy to hear that! Thanks for fitting along with me

@christinei5490 2 жыл бұрын

A brilliant tutorial as usual, you make them so easy to follow, Thank you x

@JSternDesigns 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you & Thank you for fitting along with me!

@JuliaSophia52 2 жыл бұрын

Great timing with this video. I'll be making a bodice block and the best fit is going to need a FBA. The mini iron would be perfect for keeping near the sewing machine and being able to press seams as I sew.

@JSternDesigns 2 жыл бұрын

Happy this helps! Thank you for fitting along with me!

@ezealorngoziolivia9586 Жыл бұрын

Thank you Ma

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

You are most welcome, thank you for fitting along with me :)

@sheilajohnson7996 2 жыл бұрын

Hi Jen What a coincidence, this feed just came through as this happened…. I know this isn’t related to todays topic But….. I have to give a shout out to you and how amazing you are! You did a video on trouble shooting tips etc for the PRS100 and I just had the machine tell me to a larger hoop! Guess what, the frame screw had wiggled loose and as soon as o tightened it “Voila”. It worked!!! Saving any anxiety I had! Thank you! Bless you!

@JSternDesigns 2 жыл бұрын

Hi Sheila, I'm so happy you found me! Please keep posted if you have specific question (about fitting or the PRS 100)... I love doing subscriber Q&A :)

@jgsawka 2 жыл бұрын

Fantastic tutorial as usual. I love how you make these things so easy to understand and put into practice. Just a question about folding the dart. Is there a reason why you would fold the dart up or down depending on the cup size like you mentioned?

@JSternDesigns 2 жыл бұрын

Honestly, a while back I saw somewhere that if you have a large cup size, folding the dart intake up is more "minimizing" than folding it down. I have a G-Cup Bust... so anything that might be minimizing seems like a good idea to me :))) ...Do I notice a huge difference? Only on the most fitted non-stretch tops. If the fit is looser, it really doesn't matter.

@gladyscolon9494 Жыл бұрын

Hi! Your instructions seem pretty easy to follow. I have a pattern that does not have vertical darts, but does have horizontal darts. I played with the pattern but am not sure if I did it correctly. I will review your video again and see what results I get following your instructions. Many thanks!

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

Happy to hear that you think the instructions are clear! Let me know how your pattern comes out! Thanks for watching

@judyhansen6237 2 жыл бұрын

I’m new to your Chanel. So far loving your videos! You make the lessons be super easy to understand. Thank you so much for your content! 🥰Hope I win the full size iron I’m in desperate need of one! 😋I sew a lot so I would pretty much be using it on all my projects 😄

@JSternDesigns 2 жыл бұрын

So happy you found me! (sorry you didn't win the iron... I wish I had one for everyone!) Keep me posted if you need help with anything specific, I love answering subscriber questions!

@judyhansen6237 2 жыл бұрын

@@JSternDesigns thank you! 🥰👍🏼

@Fattiapples Ай бұрын

What do you mean by for sizes A-C, press the dart down? Is this still referring to manipulating the top dart leg for sizes A-C? But instead of folding the line outwards (or "up"), you mean to fold the line inwards and then connect to lower dart leg? Am I interpreting this correctly?

@JSternDesigns Ай бұрын

:) Yes, fold the dart intake down for Cup Sizes A-C... and up for D+ Cup sizes ...The theory is that if you fold the dart uptake up, it minimizes larger cup sizes. I do fold mine up because I'm a G-Cup. Hope this helps, Thanks for watching

@kayphuff 2 жыл бұрын

Yes, yes,yes

@JSternDesigns 2 жыл бұрын

😘

@margaretsmith9637 Жыл бұрын

After adding length, I thought you draw the dart to the original bust point and then shorten the dart, otherwise the dart is not pointing at your apex?

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

If your dart is not in the right place vertically, you cut a rectangle around it and slide it up or down to position it slightly below your apex... The larger your cup size the farther away from the apex it should be. 1/2" for A-B cups, 5/8"-3/4" for C-D cups and 1 or a little more for D+ cup sizes. There's no need to adjust the length of the dart unless it was too long or too short to begin with... Hope this helps! Thanks for watching

@marlenede-abel1336 2 жыл бұрын

This was very interesting - is there a way to increase cup size where there is no dart as in a tshirt pattern without a bust dart.

@JSternDesigns 2 жыл бұрын

That sounds like an excellent topic for an upcoming Fit Tip Tuesday! Stay Tuned!

@margaretsmith9637 Жыл бұрын

You could ease in extra front length of front along where the dart would be, but too much would become ruching which also would work, though it would be a different design.

@kimbaxley7595 2 жыл бұрын

So this be a case we're a full bust adjustment wouldn't work? Do these two adjustments t serve different purposes?

@JSternDesigns 2 жыл бұрын

This is a full bust adjustment that's just affecting the bust level. There are other versions of this technique that lengthen other areas of the front bodice.

@KarenMcNeil-en2fn 9 ай бұрын

What about small bust fitting. Always, always an issue for me!

@JSternDesigns 9 ай бұрын

Here you go! kzfaq.infoiO4eeOGjE_A Thanks for fitting along with me

@KarenMcNeil-en2fn 9 ай бұрын

@@JSternDesigns Thank you very much

@lindamarsh6271 2 жыл бұрын

I love these videos but I’m now confused. I did a full bust adjustment on a tshirt, which meant my side seams are now uneven. Just curving out the seams at the bust didn’t work for me. Is your video showing an alternative to a FBA?

@JSternDesigns 2 жыл бұрын

There are many ways to do a FBA... Most of them do not make the front side seam longer than the back.... Were you working on a top without a bust dart?

@lindamarsh6271 2 жыл бұрын

@@JSternDesigns Yes. A knitted top without a bust dart.

@lindamarsh6271 2 жыл бұрын

I mean knit as in jersey

@JSternDesigns 2 жыл бұрын

@@lindamarsh6271 Ahhh... I will add how to do a FBA on a dartless top to my short list of upcoming topics! There is a way to add bust room without changing the length of the side seam :)

@elizabetha2446 2 жыл бұрын

Hi: I think there are places where your instructions don't seem correct. 1. When you do the cutting and spreading of the paper, the original bust point stays the same. The new dart should angle up to the original bust point. It looks like you are using a lower bust point after the adjustment. 2. When you fold the bust dart to true the cutting line, you should fold the bottom dart leg up instead of folding the top dart leg down. I hope this makes sense. Thanks

@JSternDesigns 2 жыл бұрын

Good eye! The position of this dart was not "accurate".. it should have been a little lower. You can have your darts pointing up toward the apex, or parallel to the floor, which ever is more flattering for the style of the garment. I folded the top dart leg because I pressed the dart intake up (for a D+ size cup) ...If I were working on an A-C cup, I would have pressed the lower dart leg and dart intake down. Hope that helps! Thanks for fitting along with me.

@elizabetha2446 2 жыл бұрын

@@JSternDesigns Hi again. Maybe I'm confused but I was taught that when doing a FBA that the original apex is used. The apex doesn't get lower just because a FBA is being done. I would have angled the dart up towards the original apex. The FBA doesn't create a new lower apex. What do you think?