I’m planning to use the spare bedroom in my home for fermenting beer. I’ve been brewing for many years but kids in the house they take up my brewing space. I’ve fermented beer in walk-in-wardrobes and my ensuite...all good beer but it’s in the way. Now the kids are moving out soon....my wife has her craft room....I will have a beer cave.

Loved this series. So much good information.

KZfaq needs more Andy Parker. 👍

This is a great series! Am really enjoying not only the video content but also the comments. A wealth of information.

Loved this series. So much good information. 👍🍻

Hop creep is hop variety dependent. Cascade being notorious for it due to it's unusually elevated dextrin hydrolyzing enzyme content. Most other hops have lower content and thus present less of an issue. This is also only an issue in beers with higher mash temperatures or insufficient mash length that result in the presence of these otherwise unfermentables in the beer. I just did a 15g/L dry hop on a beer mashed for 1 hr at 69°C and it had no issues with hop creep using: Bru-1, Sabro, and Idaho 7. Mash low and long for a dry beer to avoid dextrins and there's no hop creep issue. You can back sweeten with isomaltulose or lactose if desired. Or stay away form Amarillo and Cascade in the dry hop. Simcoe, Centenial, and Citra, being significantly lower enzyme content and thus better dry hop choices for beer with an intended residual sweetness. If you're planning on using Amarillo or Cascade for the dry hop, you might as well mash for a dry beer anyway and minimize your hop creep diacetyl risk.

Great video. Thanks guys!

Cool, great video

Chlorophenol is only possible when there's chlorine in the beer. Rarely from your water as chlorine is driven off in a 15 minute boil which almost all beers undertake. It'll also evaporate at lower temperatures over a longer period of time, for example in the mash. Chloramines don't evaporate like this, but they're only put in UK water supplies in rural areas where contamination is more likely, according to my conversations with Severn Trent. The other major vector for Chlorine contamination is from your choice of sanitizer. This is why I use StarSan, as it's chlorine free and no-rinse. Stay away from bleach and other chlorine based sanitizers in the UK and you shouldn't be at significant risk of any band-aid like chlorophenol off flavours in your beer. Around 20% of Americans city water has Chloramines in it though, so they're different.

I'm definitely naive about brewing and that's why I'm here.

I need to ask as I've looked in the past, where did you get your plastic fermenter? It looks so easy to use with the screw top, plus you can see fermentation taking place.

Go pressure fermentation if controlled environment isn’t achievable for a healthy fermentation.

I lost control of my temperature about 15-16 hours into my fermentation process. I used SafAle WB-06 dry yeast and put my tub into a dark space in my home. The thermometer at home wasn't turned on and it got down to 61 degrees F for a couple of hours. I was using Hanks Hefeweizen recipe (Northern Brewer) so is my batch trash now?

What about fruit additions to the fermentation? I am going to make a blackberry porter in the next week or two and I am wondering how long to leave the berries in the fermenter, should the be treated the same as a dry hop addition and leave them in for 3 days or a bit longer? sanitization wise, they are currently sitting in the freezer and will be blended up before adding it, it's all losely influenced on the clawhammer Blackberry stout!

Ok...so looking at the table a bit closer this time. And couldn't help but notice Jamil's beer sitting there. Is this some sort of easter egg of something to come? Possibly just a nod to a very important figure in the homebrew community? Or does he have some sort of tie to the Malt Miller. Either way a bit jealous. Cant get Heretic where I am and would love to try Evil 3. Cheers and thanks for the videos.

Question: Fermentation under pressure! I have a fermzilla, which is awesome for that, but haven't got into it yet. Does it increase dry-hop yield and affect the fermentation positively in general? Setting a spunding valve to maybe 1 bar would save a lot of CO2 for kegging, but could there be other benefits or draw-backs? I suspect the yeast wouldn't care about 1 bar, as that's, to my knowledge, quite common at the bottom of big fermenters at large-scale breweries with tall fermenters

When Andy referred to a chlorophenol taste from stressed yeast did he specifically mean to the elastoplast / medicinal taste ? I ask as I have had this problem this summer on a couple of batches and I know it's not due to chloramines or chlorine as I use well water. Thankyou

I admit I didn't understand Andy's dry hop schedule: does he do the bulk dry hop at room temp or just the small first dry hop?

Great Video! I have a question on Carbonization: How do you do carbonization, to get a homogenous result? I am having some Problems with some bottles having a lot too much pressure and flushing over at the opening and some bottles not having any pressure at all.. Here is my procedure: In Case of e.g. 5g/L carbonization, I mix 5g of sugar into every 15mL of boiling sterile water and solve it into it. I then put 5mL of this solution into each 0,33L bottle and then fill the beer onto it, once the sugar solution+bottle is cold Would be very helpful if you have a tip for me, this is my biggest brewing problem!! Best regards from Germany

I thought about having a go at home brewing ,these videos have put me right off looks so complicated and expensive to set up, think ill stick to micro pubs!

I can't see the link to the CAMRA vids?

Bag the dry hops, or just toss them on? Pros and cons?

I'm not sure where this question belongs, but fermentation migh be it. Anyway, question about spunding, when brewing "real ale" style of beer, let's say a best bitter. All I can find written about it says "when a few points remains to FG", and thats it, never any details. If I want to let the fermentation CO2 carbonate my best bitter, what do I do? If I have an expected FG of 1.010, when do I let the spunding valve work, what pressure am I targeting and for how long should it sit to reach proper carbonation (lets say 1.4 volumes)?

I've had luck just leaving the last round of dry hops in the keg, in a spider, then waiting a couple of days to cold crash and carbonate at the same time. Two months finish time, with no noticeable vegital flavors.

From another pro. Yes, it is what happens in the cellar that makes "sugar water" to beer. 1. Sooner or later you will need to get temperature control. Just accept it. Buy an old fridge and an external thermostat. Especially if you are into lagers. 2. Get equipment easy to clean and can take boiling water. 3. Get a process where you keep oxygen out after pitching yeast. Especially if you are a hop addict. 4. As said, pitching the right amount of yeast. 11g dry yeast is good enough for ale in moderate gravity 25 l. For heavy gravity or lager, double up. 5. Make sure you get the diacetyl rest. My set up. I ferment in a stainless steel kegs 30 l. 25-27 l in a batch. A floating tube in the keg. First open fermentation in right temperature. Add dryhop and 200g sugar. Close and spunding valve. After dryhoping and second fermentation finished, cold crash. Then transfer to another keg or botteling with counterpressure filler. Cap on foam. I normally get oxygen levels at 0,1 ppm.

Or to put it another way, you can make the odd cock up on brewday, as we all have, but a good fermentation with copious happy yeast and good temperature control can save your ass. My best move by far was rigging up a fermentation fridge.

Yeast nutrient isn't required when wort is chemically balanced, and stabile, which soaking malt in hot water for an hour doesn't accomplish. The fermentation cycle is inconsistent in home brewing, due to the brewing method, and off flavors develop during fermentation and conditioning, resulting in beer with very limited shelf life. The brewing method produces, mainly, simple sugar, glucose, which is highly fermentable, and responsible for primary fermentation, and depending on the temperature, more, or less sweet tasting, nonfermenting types of sugar. Since, home brew extract contains mostly, glucose, and nonfermenting types of sugar, secondary fermentation doesn't occur, which has to occur to produce ale and lager. The conversion rest is responsible for secondary fermentation, but the conversion rest is skipped in home brewing because it lengthens the brewing cycle, an extra fermenter is needed, and the high temperatures that are used for making home made beer denatures the enzyme responsible for conversion, Beta. During conversion (60-63), Beta turns glucose into maltose and maltotriose. Maltose and maltotriose produce ale and lager. Glucose laden extract produces moonshiners beer. Beta is purposely denatured in grain distillation, and in home brewing. High modified, home brew, malt may be tied in with skipping the conversion rest because the malt is less rich in enzyme content than under modified, malt, and depending on the level of malt modification, enzymes need to be added. Dextrinization and gelatinization steps are also skipped in home brewing, and in grain distillation. Yeast works differently on simple sugar than it works on complex types of sugar. An enzyme in yeast converts maltose back into glucose during secondary fermentation. When conversion occurs, beer naturally carbonates during conditioning, due to maltotriose. Beer doesn't need priming sugar, or CO2 injection for carbonation. Artificial carbonation produces soda pop fizz. When liquefaction, saccharification, and conversion occurs, but dextrinization and gelatinization steps are skipped, the final product will thin and dry out during conditioning.

I'd even go as far as to say that packaging is the most important part, that's where you can truly ruin a great beer.

Go pressure fermentation if controlled environment isn’t achievable for a healthy fermentation.

Great Video! I have a question on Carbonization: How do you do carbonization, to get a homogenous result? I am having some Problems with some bottles having a lot too much pressure and flushing over at the opening and some bottles not having any pressure at all.. Here is my procedure: In Case of e.g. 5g/L carbonization, I mix 5g of sugar into every 15mL of boiling sterile water and solve it into it. I then put 5mL of this solution into each 0,33L bottle and then fill the beer onto it, once the sugar solution+bottle is cold Would be very helpful if you have a tip for me, this is my biggest brewing problem!! Best regards from Germany