I reallly hope this will do. Thanks so much for this video. Will buy a flow switch today 👍

@FixItWithJake THANK YOU!!! Just an FYI, because your video was the best of sooooo many I viewed on the IC40 sensor issues, errors and replacement, I mentioned you in my Amazon review for the Optimum flow sensor I bought. Long story short: Never owned a pool before. In December 2022, my wife and I purchased a home in SC with a beautiful pool that was built in 2019. When we had the pool inspected, the Low Salt indicator was on and the chlorine levels were low. We were told that is normal when the air temps are below 52 degrees. Fast forward, air temps are in the 80s now, pool temp is 75. Low salt light still on, control panel shows 2050 ppm, dipstick shows 2800 and pool store test shows 2900 ppm salt, but 0 total and free chlorine. We’ve had a company servicing our pool since early March. They came out and did a $190 diagnostic visit because their tech said the power to the IC 40 was off. We never saw it off. Always on and always with the Low Salt light on. Their tech said the cell was shot. $1,500 to replace it and and other $190 to install. I cleaned the unit and it really wasn’t too bad. I thought I was doing good by ordering a new IC 40 on Amazon for $1050 and was going to install it myself. I patted myself on the back for saving about $700. Then I stumbled onto this video of yours. Having 30 days to return the new cell after it arrived, I opted to order a new $39 sensor form Amazon as well and give that a try. Worst case scenario in my opinion, if the sensor did t work, I only saved $670 then. Lol! We’ll the sensor arrived yesterday. Thankfully because of your video, I knew I could replace the sensor with the IC40 still attached to the pool plumbing. That was such a help!! Thank you for showing that! Also l, thanks for the wiring diagram and tutorial. My old sensor had three wires and the new one had four. Thanks to you, I knew which ones went where. In less than 10 minutes the old was removed, the new was installed and it was powered back up. After about 10 minutes of alternating high and low salt lights, it calibrated itself. For the first time since buying this house, I see a green Good Salt light. Salt level on the panel is 3050 ppm and by dip stick 2900. I already set up the return of the unopened new IC40, left a review for the sensor and tagged you in the review. Awesome job brother, thank you for saving me about $1,500 with this great video. PS - I fired the pool service company, will be disputing the charges for their ridiculous diagnostic fee by which they found the cell shot. Also, after I replaced the sensor, I checked cell life and have 40% remaining! Thank you again.

Thank you!!! Success on my end. Really appreciate you taking the time to share this video! Let many blessings will fill your life with joy!

Awesome tutorial video. I have that problem and will start working on it right now. The pool service people want $1100.00 just to replace my Intellichlor IC 40!

This video was extremely helpful. Couldn’t get anyone out to help me fix this problem, and by watching this video I was able to do it myself in 30 minutes for less than $50. Incredibly grateful!

Great video. My chlorinator- 60 is producing salt, but it is not ready on my easy touch system. I have a Pentair. Do you still think it might be my flow switch?

Have you had any issues with cell popping the 10amp fuse? Could flow switch cause it or cell electronics shot? Cell is just over 2 years old.

Thanks for the video! If the red lights are only present during the diagnostic test and not during normal operating conditions, is the flow still bad? Also, would a bad flow switch cause the system not to produce chlorine? Thanks!

thanks for this video, have ordered a sensor for 42$ on amazon using your link. Our IC 40 must be at least 5 yrs old but when we test how many hrs of use it has had (by holding down the "more" button for 3 seconds and watching the green lights) it only reads 20% (see manual), showing lots of potential life left in it. I was wondering what app you are using on your phone at the end of the video?

I have a flashing green for the Cell indicator which says "Inspect cell" I acid cleaned the blades as I always done, but still is flashing only 3yrs. old.

Hi and thanks for your video! I have the IC40 chlorinator and salt level lights (good and low) are BOTH flashing and the FLOW red light is on. The flow is fine... i cleaned it out with MA and its still lit up like a Christmas tree with these lights flashing that shouldnt be. Now i do have to say the water temp is at about 55degrees. I just dont remember this being such an issue in years passed. Is all this due to water temp? My salt level is at 3400 so that checks out too. You think this could all be the cell? Its about 7 yrs old.

Great video, thanks. I cleaned my IC40 yesterday with a 1:4 muriatic acid/water mix and today I’m getting a flashing green (high salt) light on the salt level part of the screen. Last week the pool store (Leslie’s) showed my salt to be 3200 ppm. I also backwashed a few days ago, so if anything, it should be low. Water doesn’t taste salty either. Pool store said I should reset it. I can’t find instructions on that. I pressed the “more” button but it didn’t change anything after going through its cycle. The less or more buttons don’t seem to work but the app lets me change the sanitizer level which has been at 80%. Any thoughts? Thanks

I don't know where you're located but in Cali a flow switch is $185 cost plus tax

I replaced mine and it’s still flashing red to green on the salt reading and the flow light stays on red? Any recs?

I have an IC40. My flow light is green all the time, even when I turn the pump off. It has a new flow switch. What can it be?

What if the flow light isnt lite at all? I tried replacing tbe sensor. Still no light lite on the flow

My salt cell keeps flashing green and I have no idea what’s wrong with it. Help please

I did everything you said here but it still says no flow. I backflowed it, cleaned it everything. I hate the system. Seriously I’m considering going back to Chlorine. It’s way too sensitive

Cell has red, white, black wires. Switch has red, clear, blue, green. Is it red-red, white-clear, black-blue, green alone?

Thank you for this. This is a bad design overall. It’s really stupid the way that that sensor only last maybe two years. Very flimsy.