This is how I've built boxes since the 90s. This is some of the best box building advice I've seen on KZfaq.

Man, I just wanted to take a second to thank you and the other audio guys that go into detail about these type of things for us diy guys. I do all my audio myself and I never would have learned as much as I have without guys like you. So I appreciate all the time and effort you have spent giving us all the info you have. You do great work man, and you definitely know what your doing so I just wanted to point that out and give you a "pat on the back". Thanks man

Great video. Building different boxes and trying different things is what it's all about. Making it easier and faster makes it more fun.

This was very helpful 🤯 . My only build I had to do all the crazy adjusting to make my cuts 🤦‍♂️. Well now I know, thanks!

Absolutely great topic! One thing I will add from my experience; I always design the face that contains the port as a single piece (that’s to say the port wall end is not exposed on the outside of the box.). The reason this takes priority for me is that I use a jigsaw to rough cut the opening for assembly, then a router with a flush trim bit to finish the hole once assembled. This allows for the use of a round over on the port mouth as a final step, and prevents awkwardness from nails or screws when making the pass as they’re always on the face and the bit’s bearing doesn’t have to ride over them. 😉

Audio Manufacturing Lean Processing. This is great detailing for this process per project. Fantastic topic!

Thanks for this info I'm going to attempt to make a box for two twelves you had a lot of great tips I wouldn't of not thought off being a newbie to box making thank you

One of your better beginner Vids. Thanks.

Again, loved this Video.

Lol, this one brings back memories. My first real sub i bought i believe i built 3 enclosures for it in the span of a year and a half. The 3rd enclosure i built was majorly based on this very reason. Building boxes with new tweeks is pretty fun also, though. Im about ready to build my current sub's 3rd box soon. At least i want to.

Solid advice! 👍👍

Kids, in whatever you do remember to measure twice then cut once. Measure twice then cut once.

Fun to watch the explanation. It's good to see you're hooking up those jus5 getting into building

EXECELLENT TUTORIAL! If you don't have a cut guide tool or table saw. Clamp a finished piece 2X4 or other very straight board, straight edge, etc. along your cut line so the circular saw base plate slide down it and the blade cuts perfectly straight from start to finish.

Tracks saws are awesome too. I use my track saw for the long cuts and my table saw for the short cuts because I dont have a place to set up a spot for my table saw to be permanent. And i still prefer the screw and glue method with clamps. I use the SPAX MDF screws. You don't have to predrill any holes, but you still have to be careful of screw placement. Even though they are narrower than drywall screws, they can still cause the wood to split if they are too close to the edge of the adjoining piece. And another thing to consider and it doesn't matter what type of saw that you're using. You have to keep in mind of which side of the line is going to be cut. You can easily come up short by the thickness of the blade if you're not careful. If you're super motivated, you can use a 4 ft level and a circular saw to make good str8 cuts. Once you get the measurements down for the distance from the edge of the 4ft level to the cut side of your blade...you're good to go. Just make sure to clamp down the 4ft level before you start cutting. 😁😆✌🏾

Excellent points. 20 years ago, I've made some atrocities. Having to fill gaps with silicone. And just bad looking enclosures.

I recommend using glue and screws no matter how long you’ve been making enclosures for high pressure applications. Over time, screws will hold more securely than using an air nailer due to the added surface area of the screw’s thread and how they lock into the wood’s fiber.

First box I ever made I used a circular saw freehand. I think about 20% of that box was wood filler by the time I was done. Edit: Oh I also didn't predrill a single hole.. MDF does not like that

Ive made a few speaker boxes and bass cabinet but the whole time i thought i was the only one doing it i almost thought it was rediculous just buy something but its fun if u have decent tools and some knowlage so now i nothing against it its a hobby for some and a bussiness for others but good video 👍

I bought the Kreg edge guide it helped but buying the WEN 6.5" track saw made a huge improvement and really stepped up my cuts. When comparing the price the WEN was not all that much more than the guide itself with way better results.

Never used any of these tools but have been cutting wood for 30 years, yes some come out a little off but you put that into your design, it’s all good dude

Very nice video.

Good tips.

Your awesome man thank you,

5:56 All the boxes I've done have that problem 😅😅

My new favorite KZfaqr

I need that jig for my circular saw!

Assuming the financials of this channel, Sir ! You actually deserve more than this 🎉 A fan From Pakistan 🇵🇰

I'd be so happy to have that table saw in my work space

Awesome computer software

You can also allow more bass to sealed boxes over ported boxes. Again speakers last longer in sealed boxes then ported boxes. Do the test for yourself you will see more bass output in the sealed boxes.

I'm getting ready to build a box for 2 12s and I already plan on inverting them. Should I port the enclosure or is that unnecessary?

Literally built that exact box yesterday

I use a folding (hinged), 6'×10' support table (which supports the entire 4×8 sheet). And a rigid saw guide, having an intergrated saw support and high volume dust collector. This is less cumbersome than a tablesaw (even with an extended table). Very fast and easy to set up! I only use a tablesaw and sliding tablesaw sled for smaller panel pieces. Another handy tool are sets of labeled spacer strip pieces, in common stock widths - zero measuring!

What skar box is best for 12 vxf @ 2 olm. Thanks for sharing, i learned

4:55 that left brace is very close to the port opening on the inside. This can create a choke point and the tune will be off. You wanna have ATLEAST the width of the port of free space in front of the port opening, preferably more to be sure.

Router and a flush trim bit is how I fix my mistakes, but it all takes extra time!

When you said even a skilled worker will have a wobble on a regular skills saw you ain't lying but it is possible good stuff bro just subed

I could use some advice on building a 6x9 box with limited space available

Great video. I'm a bass fanatic since I first entered a Mini Cooper loaded with four 15 Rockford Fosgate subwoofers. That was around 20 some years ago. Anyway, what would you recommend for a system that would shake the foundations of buildings?

nice video

I am trying to build a double 10 audio pipe low bass subwoofer box how can you help me with measurement

Use the cultist application. Lay out your panels to minimize fence changes and check them off as you go

While being a little gimmicky, I have been using flex seal on the inside of my box. Just spray along the inside the box and let it sit. A lot less messy than silicone that I always make a mess with.

Hey brother...your videos are very informative and helpful...thank you for the content...anyway you would be willing to mock up a dual sub enclosure with a slotted port in the center...subs and port front firing...thanks for the consideration

it's not preachy if you're right. you're good bro! thank you for the help!

Has anyone ever noticed how this guy looks like Captain Spaulding?

Own both a Bosch contractor saw, and the Kreg Rip Cut. Use them both as follows. The Kreg Rip Cut is actually much better to break down larger sheet stock than a Contractor Table Saw. And also much safer. Once the 4x8 sheet is broken down. the table saw takes over with the smaller cuts. Contractor Table Saws, and Cabinet Saws are not the same...

I thought the mistake was not putting the port in the middle for 2 woofers. The pressure will be uneven.

I'm in Ghana and I want to learn how to make line arrays speakers. Any program online available?

Hey have you ever tested different depths behind the woofer in an enclosure but still using same internal volume. Basically using a rectangular box and placing the driver on different panels. I’ve heard claims of increasing back pressure and also claims that it won’t change.

Another Tip for easier box building that I learned the hard way: don't create complex shapes with triangles and wird angles. I did it and it cost me an extra 15 hrs. compared to an easy layout. In my case it was Wörth it since I absolutely wanted a sub that distributes bass evenly im my entire room ( tried it with another sub and ideal position was in a corner with 18° angled sideways and 11° angled upwards.

I work at cabinet shop and Thank God for a panel saw.

Super interesting! Perfect timing as well since I'm going to build a portable bluetooth speaker here soon. On that note, do you have a video explaining what kind of drivers would be best suitable for the type or size of enclosure you're using and what size of drivers you should use, i.e what size of speakers, tweeters, midrange, full range, woofers or subwoofers? If not buying/using a kit? Thanks for the video. Super helpful!!

dear friend need a help with a 10"x6.5"'x18" box. what is the suitable sub speaker size and amount for this, plz advise

When you cut on a straight line you start by 5” in and drop the saw blade down on the line and back cut then you have a straight cut

What's the best subwoofer box build programme to use?

Also, if you have to reset your fence, use a piece that's already cut to size and place it against the blade and move the fence till the wood is touching the blade and fence.

Do design for people that want to build their own enclosure?

Good day, may I ask if I can use a damping material in a speakerbox. It is a foam substance and I put in the back to bounce the sound off. It does have a full sound and not a tin sound. What do you recommend, the speakers are small and not to big to use in my vehicle. I don't like mounting them in my vehicle, they are set in places that they can't move around.

On those smaller Box builds you should be able to consider the height measurement 1st since most of the pieces We'll be that same measurement. Basically just making 1 or Is to full Length rips

Welcome back!

Little tip not related to cuts, down load a good box calculator. I see tons and tons of mistakes form hand drawn plans for your tune. The calculator you can make small or large changes to get your tune were you want it before ever making a cut. Kicker has a good one I personally use the ct sounds one. Both are free.

Good thing about the side port boxes is you can make a more narrow (less wide) box to fit a bigger box in the trunk. I could only fit a 4.5cf box in mine. It's front subs and port. But I think if I went w side port, I coulda fit a 5.0cf box?🤷‍♂️

Hey mate, love your vids, I'm looking into building a sub box and I have a questions regarding Amplifier placement, I notice alot of the designs out there on the internet look like designs for passive speakers. If I were to add a plate amp to the Sub Box itself, do I need to take into account how much volume it takes up inside the box and adjust the box size accordingly? I've also considered a fake wall in the back to preserve the volume of the box however the box size is becoming impractical. 18" Driver and a dayton SPA1000 plate amp.

GRADE A advise! thanks

Awesome video. I really appreciate you taking the time to make video’s like this one. I am in the process of putting together a stereo system and wanted to give building the box for the two subwoofers that I own. The box they’re in now is to shallow making the subwoofers to not seat. I also want the box to be the proper size for the particular subs that I have. Having said that I have two questions if you don’t mind giving me your advice I would really appreciate it. Now I have two JL Audio 10w6v3’s what wood do you recommend I use and do you recommend a sealed box or ported? Again any recommendations and advice to help me out with my journey I’d highly appreciate. Thanks

The Trick to a circular saw straight cut by free hand is to move at a moderate fast pace while cutting. I do how ever use a metal ruler clamped for a guide if I'm cutting to do a top off line on say fence gate. 🙃

Planning on building a box for 2 Visaton FR8s to fit into a model tank. The space im working with is very tight, and the boxes will only be 1 1/2x the size of the speakers. Is there any benefits to port them? Or will I sealed box be easier?

If you are going to make many boxes and want to do this on a regular basis, the track saw is the way to go leaps and bounds above a table saw. And by far most accurate if you can measure with a tape measure. No man handling the sheets just lay the track from the track saw on the sheet and cut with the saw. Festool and Makita both make great saws and the tracks are interchangeable too. Work smarter not harder!

Measure once. Cut several times. Meaning creep up on your perfect cut. Than you’ll have the perfect cut.

I should really get myself a circular saw all I've ever used is a jigsaw 😂

What software do you use to design the subwoofer boxes

I've built about 50 boxes with a circular saw . He is right in a speaker box is much more precise if you can cut within a 1/32nd you have to cut another board . It's really closer to 1/40 th on an inch for tolerance. PL glue is your friend, it's cheap .

I wouldn't use silicone to seal boxes. Wood glue or wood construction adhesive only. Silicone sealants have solvents that offgas as it cures. The solvent fumes can soften the varnish on your coils when they get hot and cause premature failure. You can use it, but wait a full day or more to put your subs in the box after building/sealing it. Then blow it out good first.

I see a lot of people using plywood in videos now , I’ve always used MDF , but I’m in California so not much moisture in the air , is there some new data about Mdf vs plywood? Or is it still a preference or is it just a southern thing like Florida where the humidity is high the wood stays together?

Noob question... do I subtract the volume of a pvc port from the volume of the enclosure the same as subtracting the displacement of the driver?

There is always an option to give the needed measures of each part to someone who works with tablesaws😊.

Gotta love shop time when it's 30°F

Hi. Which program did you use for designing the 3d?

Great tips! @6:50 to be that guy - if you care, it's sili-cone (the goo), not sili-con (the crystal material/element).

box face and back should always cap encloser making the box strong for woofers... that is great advise... but.... port should always be on the same side as woofer....for best acoustic coupling... but the side is the next best choice... but take the extra time and try and put in on the front where the woofer is mounted...

Show this video first when a shop cuts your wood !! 👍👍👍

I don't disagree that the fewer number of cut setups possible is a good idea but I wouldn't prioritize it over structural integrity. For instance, on a double baffle. The inner baffle should always be an inside board, such that the sides, top and bottom attach to its end. Then the second baffle layer should overlay that such that it creates a herring boned joint on all sides of the double baffle. This creates a much stronger joint partly because it increases the surface area of the joint and partly because it creates both sheer and tensile stress on the joinery. When I build an enclosure, the top and bottom (or front and back) will be the same size and every other panel in the build will be the same dimension in one direction. And with center ports, you'll have two of each panel in both dimensions. And there are more advantages to center ported enclosures. The center port creates a brace in the center of the enclosure, which is very important, but I see a lot of guys building enclosures with two subs in them and the port is all the way to one end or the other. You're throwing away a free center brace when you do that and, if you lose a sub while playing, it doesn't put as much stress on the one that's still playing. If you have straight cuts and good wood glue there is NEVER a reason for caulk of any kind. But if you must, silicone is just about the worst thing you can use. Silicone sticks to nothing... not even itself. If you need caulk, use painters caulk. It doesn't stink, it's much easier to clean up and it actually bonds to wood. And last, if you're using MDF, don't use screws. I won't even use them on plywood but it is especially important to avoid them with MDF because they will split the wood and weaken it. And the only way to avoid this splitting is to predrill the holes so large that the threads don't engage the material. I've built everything from simple computer speakers to 40kW SPL builds and I never use screws in the end of a panel. Also, keep any fastener 2" from the end of a panel. I know it seems like you're doing good by putting them all the way to the corner but all that really does is split the material in two directions. This comes from a manufacturer's instruction on MDF, not from my personal experience but only because I happened to read it in 1990 or so when I built my first enclosure from MDF. Before then we used particle board, which isn't fun to work with at all, lol.

Hi I have 8 6" speakers I have 4 mid-range and 4 vice and I want a make one box to accommodate all the speakers for my home system can you send me a diagram and measurement to build one thank you

Just clamp a bubble level as your guide for the skill saw...

Best way to cut without a table saw is a circular handsaw with a rail, festool, makita or milwaukee, any of them

You would be the greatest neighbor in the world especially bc I'm almost 50.#OldSchoolBump

Do the bracing with the cutouts block airflow to the port? Does the bracing also conflict with the air pressure of the subwoofer when the air goes to and from the port?

Just throwing this out there for anyone willing to help. I've been trying to decide on what system i want in my car. The main problem im having is deciding on what size sub i want. Im between 2 12s and 2 15s both running 600w rms. The question i mainly have is what size and tuning frequency i should go for if i want a box to play low and still be musical. Any help or advice would be very appreciated.

I just aero ports to keep it simple for me

is the software you used free??

Screws are not just for beginners. I've been building boxes for 25 years and I still use screws whenever possible.

Siempre compro la madera cortada

Some people ...... free air is sounding like an option right now

Do make custom boxes ??? Please say you and have a way to order for me !!???

Can you help me design a sub box?

hi, what software are you using on illustration?

I find the easiest and most accurate way to cut wood for an enclosure is to let my hardware store do it. Most hardware or lumber yards where you buy wood from offer cutting services with equipment far more precise than what a typical homeowner has. Sometimes there's no extra charge to make the cuts.

Slow is best take your time... But enough glue and screws it will still work..