Spent $30 for fuse and switch. Almost bought a new microwave. You saved me money, thank you!

Thank you so much. After being told I needed to replace my breaker, which I did first, I found your video! $9.00 for three switches and all back up and running. Very straight forward instructions. It was our monitoring switch as well! Microwave is ready for the holiday season!

Thanks! used your video twice - 1 switch went last year and now the middle one went. May need it one more time when the top switch goes. Thank you for posting!

Thank you brother, my microwave had exactly the same issue as yours, I called Frigidaire they wanted to charge me $99.99 to send a repair person plus additional money for parts. I did exactly what you did and you saved me about $150 bucks.. just fixed my Microwave :) - Thank you

Exactly what I needed....$9 for the part and microwave is back working. Thanks for making a very easy to follow video and saving me hundreds $$$

This video has saved me about $350. It really does work. Thank you!

You are a God send. You saved me hundreds of dollars. The middle micro switch appears to be the achilles’ heel for this model Frigidaire microwave. I even ordered the three switch pack from Amazon as you recommended. Thanks again.

Excellent video and description of all door switches. Thank you very much!

Thank you. You made it very simple. Closeup of the switches was helpful. The identification of the type of switch or part number to find in the market could be daunting to someone not technically oriented like me if they had not be explained with closeups like you provided. Thanks a lot. Very nice video.

I wanted to personally thank you for a great video. Estes the switch exactly as you said and found one the was not clicking. Swapped it out and just saved $400. Thank you so much!

Oliver, you rock. Just fixed my six year old Kenmore with the exact same part as in the video for $7. Thank you!

THANKS so much. My microwave had the same problem and you helped me fix and save. Just what i needed.

Great video.Ordered new switch on Amazon, fixed in half an hour!

YAY!!! Simple fix, indeed! Thank you SO MUCH!

This turned out to be my issue, thanks! I got lucky as the middle switch was just jammed. I pressed on it a few times and it went back to normal clicking. Not sure how long that might last, but it is working for now!

Thank for the clear repair procedure.

You rock!!! Easy to follow instructions and it was in fact the middle switch. Thank you sir!

Thank you. I fixed my microwave using the step by step in the video. I had the exact same issue

Just an amazing video. We appreciate you. This is the way DIY video should be done. We applaud you.

Thank you! This was so helpful

The best instructor,thanks

I was ready to buy a new microwave, until I watched your video. I had the same problem as yours. I ordered the switch. Installed it, that fixed it. It's working fine. Great video. Thank You very much.

Super helpful video. Thank you.

Thank you buddy, great clear info.

Thank you. When I was removing the switch bracket, I must have bumped the bad switch because all 3 clicked. I reinstalled and all checked good with meter. Checked the fuse on top. Put back together and it worked. I noticed that my outlet wasn't secure, power on/off with wiggle. I replaced it to thinking it could have caused an issue with the switches. All is working fine. Thank you.

Not gonna say much because it’s already been said by others. I will just say, I nailed it with your video. Thank you 🙏🏼

You saved me $150 bucks.. just fixed my Microwave :) - Thank you

Thank you this video just fixed my microwave in a few minutes

Very helpful. Thank you sir

Wow thank you!!! Saved me a ton of money

Thanks a million for this! Mine blew a fuse, so I removed the 20a 125v and put in a 20a 250v and it still blew the fuses. I just did you troubleshooting method and my middle switch doesn’t beep when door closed, but beeps when door open. Pulled it out and it had what looked like it burned out. Ordered some new switches and will see what happens.

I appreciate the video. This was my problem too! Replaced the switch and it worked for a few days but, now it’s tripping the breaker again. Same switch. Ugh!

Spot on mate! U just saved me $250

Phenomenal video!

Great vid, straightforward and easy to understand. As per your method, the 3 switches all test okay, and the oven still functions well. However t this Samsung unit does not trip the 15A breaker (surprisingly), but consistently draws over 16 A. Rated input is 1500 w at 120 v. Should draw around 12.5 A. Not sure what to check next and would certainly appreciate suggestions. Thanks It was repaired some time ago under warranty. Service tech replaced the magnetron and transformer. Is it possible a higher power part was put in place, drawing more current?

Thank you! Great video. Very helpful. Could I just go ahead and replace all three door switches if I do not have an amp meter? It looked like the package came with all three door switches ?

Thank you Oliver! I had the exact same problem with my 4-year old Bosch M-Wave. I followed your instructions and replaced the parts and its working again. Apparently this M-Wave is actually manufactured by a Chinese company and many different companies (Bosch, Frigidaire, Thermador, etc.) slap their brand name on this. The door, interlock and latching mechanism is a poor design from the OEM, and it should have been recalled. Bosch should offer a repair kit and parts for free to the people that bought this product. A Microwave in this price range should work reliably for at least 10 years.

Great video

The switch HOLDER is wore out where the door latches slide in. There are groves wore where the door HOOK latches go in allowing the switches to engage or disengage at the wrong times or not together so the middle switch gets a serge of power burning it out.

I have the same problem but my house runs on a 4000 watt pure sine wave inverter . Some thing about the microwave oven that is brand new , that when it starts it trips the inverter . and the entire house goes down . I have cooked entire meals using my air fry toaster oven ( 1800 watts ) , hot plate ( 1000 watts ) , AC on low ( 580 watts ) , fridge ( 120 watts ) , freezer ( 120 watts ) , and the rest of the house that totaled 3375 watts all at the same time with no issues . It is just something about the start on the microwave that causes the inverter to trip and the rated watts for the microwave is only 1350 watts . So... the cure to this was to simply turn the power down on the microwave to 6 instead on 10 and it runs just fine . My oven is a Master Chef . I have even plugged the microwave strait into the inverter with nothing else plugged in and same thing . Hope this helps if you have the same problem .

Thank you, my top & bottom switches tested to have continuity, but my middle switch tested in reverse (door open=sound, door closed=no sound). Ordering my parts today..!!

Thank you for your video

Thank you.

i found the sensor that wasn't working, replaced all of them since it was already open and this fixed my microwave.

Dang it! You fixed my microwave, I wanted to get one of the low profile microwaves. Thanks for the video, I guess. :)

Thank you, sir!

Hello, I have a Frigidaire Gallery Microwave from 2013 # FGMV-174KFB, and need to replace the INTERNAL light bulb, but I do not see anywhere where I can find screws or any cover that can come off. This unit is the above range/stove kind and has stainless steel trim all around it, which can't be popped off or anything. There is simply nothing I can pop off or unscrew at this point. How do I get into the unit and change the bulb? Is the only way to pull it completely out of the cabinetry? I hope not. PLEASE HELP.

I have this exact same microwave. After replacing the monitor (normally closed, or middle) switch last year, and replacing the switch holder. I experienced the same issue recently. I figured it couldn't have been the switch or switch holder again, seeing as I replaced them 13 months ago, so I replaced the capacitor; same problem. Disconnecting the monitor switch solves the problem immediately, and permanently. There are some risks involved in leaving this switch disconnected, but as long as you wait for the microwave to finish heating, or press the "STOP" button, you should be fine. The friction caused by the door latch eventually wears into the plastic of the switch holder, which makes the latch unable to hit the monitor switch. The solution to this is to replace the switch holder, but I am not going to spend $50 every year to replace this part, so goodbye monitor switch!

Our Microwave is not blowing fuses, it just does nothing, as if it were unplugged. When it first went out we assumed the Microwave was trashed, but the next morning it was back on and worked fine . It went off again that same day but came back on later in the day and has worked fine for about the last month, but when it shut down the last time that was it. The fuse and the door switches appear to be working properly and I have power at the outlet. Any ideas would sure be appreciated. Thanks, Ray

My problem is that the back panel is all-in-one complete panel I can't just take off that top piece to get access to the fuse so I can't figure out how to take off this entire panel any suggestions

A couple other possibilities that will act just like this switch problem: The plastic bracket that holds the three switches can be worn where the door latches hook over a plastic lip. This will cause the switches to engage/disengage in the wrong order when you open the door during a run, flipping the breaker. The plastic hook latches on the door can also be worn, causing the same problem. In my case, replacing the switches helped the problem of the breaker tripping every time I hit start. I had to also replace the plastic bracket in order to stop the breaker tripping every time I opened the door mid run.

I did all this work , spent $40 on parts, switches and suggested black switch latch holder. Was not the issue . Test everything before you buy anything.

You have to be a bit careful with the meter test as the wiring harness plugs help to position the switches in the black bracket. In the video you can see the third switch shift a bit after he removes the connector. If the switch pivots enough from its proper position it could read its "door open" state when the door is closed. If the switches are all OK, the door latch might be worn. It needs to trigger both lower switches properly and in the correct order as the door is opened or closed, otherwise the breaker can trip, particularly if you open the door while the microwave is running. If the latch is worn from rubbing on the switches over the years it must be replaced. It is also an inexpensive part but a bit harder to find.

Holy crap I am having a hell of a time pulling the wires off the 3 switches and then getting the switches out of the black harness. Is there some trick to this because this is ridiculous

Where to find the fuse in the very large microwave body

I've replaced all the switches and even the fuse. Still no go. Door close seems to still be the issue? I'm not sure what to do next besides calling a tech.

Hi, thanks for the detailed video. My GE microwave was tripping breaker. I took out the 3 door switches and found the middle one not clicking and is stiff. So replaced it but microwave works fine for couple of times but same thing happens - it trips the breaker once i start it. The replaced switch loses it's 'clicking' and is stiff. Any other reason for tripping breaker ?

Estoy muy lenta en comprender el negocio y compartir el video gratis o como se gana

Good video on troubleshooting the switches, However, part of the problem is the Manufacturer is using a JUNK brand of switch and you are replacing with the same Junk! Better to spend about $4 per switch and purchase a reputable brand microswitch like Omron or Honeywell on Digikey, Mouser or Arrow..

ok so i had this identical issue. microwave comes on for about 2-5 seconds and then blows the house fuse. i pulled all 3 door switches and verified that the top and bottom switch only beep when the button is pressed and the middle switch only beeps when the button is not pressed. it appears all 3 switches are being pressed when the door is shut but it's hard to tell for sure. is there something else i can try?

Pardon me for asking this, why buy a $30 meter if you’re going to buy the 3 switches under $10? Just replace the switches first, I’d start with the middle one and see if it fixes the problem, before going on to the other two switches, which after time will also be worn out. How long should these microwaves last? I use mine a lot, every day. My Frigidaire microwave is 16 years old. I’m going to try changing out the switches. Meanwhile, I’ve been like a pioneer woman dealing with a T-fal skillet pan, which is not my favorite way of heating up food. 😂

No luck for me. I tested all switches and they all work fine. They breaker triggers when closing the door.

I don't understand why these switches being bad would trip the breaker. Why wouldn't it just make the microwave not work. I've never seen a system designed such that if a safety switch goes bad, it causes the device to draw much larger amounts of current.

Be careful pulling up on that tiny tab to get the switch out. I broke the tab on the black plastic piece, and the replacement piece costs upwards of $30.

👍👍👍

YOU MUST DISCHARGE THE CAOCITOR BEFORE REMOVING IT. THAT'S VERY DANGEROUS.

I really do not believe this. What parts of

I wish I had watched this before I bought and installed a new $230 microwave.

Is it a Fridgedare ??? They are crap !!

If your finger ring conducts electricity, it can be dangerous to work on electricity and electronics while wearing it.

Crap. I just replaced my microwave for this same problem:-(

It's only Frigidaire brand. They suck.

Hola gracias por la oportunidad de este negocio ahora quisiera comparartir con mi socio URYSS el es mi hijo podre