I know from doing extensive jetting on a TM40 carb for a DR650 that technically the idle circuit is a combination of the pilot jet and the idle mixture screw. So, yes, you can get a larger pilot jet and not open the idle mixture screw as much. It's not purely that simple, as the larger pilot jet does have more of an effect on the engine backfiring when decelerating with a closed throttle, but what you talk about is correct.

Hey can you link the inline fuel filter you used?

This comment was gold. Just happened to me on the road, did this trick and now I'm moving again

@@myboyjericho2568 Glad I could help from experience!!!

Man. It’s just sitting tho.

Have faith in yourself .get that baby up n running

I had this problem on my 03 klr 250 I just bought a carb rebuild kit and it fixed it

I'm about to dive into my carb (same as the one here, it's a '99) and will learn more when I get it apart, but I will say that simply cleaning the jet is only a limited part of it. Make sure you have familiarity with the entire circuit and spray cleaner through all the passages to make sure they are clear. Just cleaning or even replacing the jet is no guarantee the circuit is also clean and clear. Be careful of what cleaner you use, I use QD electric cleaner. Some carb cleaners will absolutely eat rubber in less than a second.

@@peedee4065 Yeah, there are half a dozen different passage ways... be sure you get the accelerator pump passages cleaned out all the way into the carb... that's the tinest jet of all... from the accelerator pump into the carb. I cleaned mine all out clinically clean by soaking it in solvent, got it running fine, and then with a few days it was all clogged up again just sitting, even with a fuel filter on it and the whole thing clinically clean inside. I'm fed up with F'n carbs. After you've taken the same one on and off 50 times, cleaned it all out each time, only to put it on and change next to nothing... yeah... st000pld tech.

@@choppergirl I worked on my carb today and learned a lot. Btw only the Harley CV40's are using accelerator pumps. Your issue seems more basic than the typical clogged pilot jet. If the bike won't run without the choke that should be even easier to diagnose than not being able to open the throttle. You can get those symptoms with an air leak downstream of the carb. Typically air leaks make your bike idle a little higher, but at the same time they do make the condition lean (hence sometimes an inability to run without the choke). So, without knowing the history of what bike you have and what mods you've done, I would say first make sure your valve clearances are correct as tight/leaking valves can totally influence a bike's ability to idle. Secondly would be to check for air leaks. If you're able to idle the bike with the choke on just spray anything, it could even be water in a spray bottle, between the carb and the head. If there's an air leak whatever you spray will get sucked in through the leak and affect the idle. Again, these are two checks that are aside from anything carburetor related. As an aside, concerning my carb the air cut-off diaphragm was disintegrating. The pilot circuit gets its bleed or atomization air from the air jet in the mouth of the carb AND from the air chamber under the slide, which then has a passage way down into the air cut chamber, and under normal conditions then goes past the plunger down to the pilot jet. Because my air cut-off diaphragm was disintegrating bits of it were being fed down into the pilot atomization area. I've cleaned the carb and made a workaround for the diaphragm and will have it back on the bike tomorrow to test. The workaround is that my carb came with an MCP jet kit, which comes with a rubber plug to disable the air cut. As such the air cut-off diaphragm is then disabled and useless, so I literally cut it off the plunger. Because its outer circumference sealed the chamber I installed an o-ring in its place. And btw this is why soaking a carb in solvent isn't a final guarantee, you need to verify with an aerosol spray with its little straw that particular passages are able to flow and are not blocked. Not only will this be instructional for you but it just simply verifies that the passages are indeed free of gunk. And btw what do you mean when you say "with a few days it was all clogged up again just sitting, even with a fuel filter on it and the whole thing clinically clean inside." It's either clean, or it's clogged, so.... If it was clogged, you opened it and verified clogged passages, again? Or you assumed from the performance that the passages were clogged?

@@peedee4065 No mods, it's a 1985 Honda Rebel CMX250. I'd buy a whole new carb and replace it, but it's an early single barrel carb and they are unobtainium as they switched in later models to dual carbs. Not the only Honda carb bike I own, but I've had more problems with the carb on this bike than anything else ever. I even went blind for 5 years getting carb spray back in my eyes from futzing with it, and had to finally get surgery on both eyes to see again. So it's truly the carb from h377. I'd push the whole thing off a cliff, but it's the first decent bike I ever owned and got me back into motorcycling.

Very cool. I had a friend's Harley that was intermittently running erratic and simultaneously had an abs light issue (and in worst cases the electrics would die). During the test ride it became clear to me the light popped on and off going over bumps in the road. A closer look revealed the negative lead to the battery had a terminal that was cracked completely through. Because of the layout of the cable and battery the lead was simply kept in close contact, but under enough of a bump it would separate, momentarily.

My KLR drinks anything.....

kilometers

@@MarshallSmith27 oh, I should have known. Still cooool thou lol

A friend of mine here in Texas has 80k miles on his. He rides it from south Texas to Colorado and back.

this. i almost never want to sell something to a friend because then i feel like i still own it, but never get to enjoy it!

Dis you find any Solution..Please help me too

@@vagishgpatil3013 Yes mine has been solved. It was a simple noob mistake. You know how the main jet screw has two pieces that comes out after opening the carb and unscrewing the main jet? We’ll, the little piece that goes in first before you screw back the main jet (in the same hole) looks like it can go either way but in fact there is one end that’s supposed to be fading down. Thanks nice I flipped mine it fixed my issue. Note: the end with a curved-in shape is the end that meets the bottom of the jet once inserted to create better contact.

@@lmt-adventures620 thanks man..I forgot To insert that small Piece of Main Jet..it's been 2day..Now I found the missing part lying around and Insert and Bike start normally..Kicked the kick 100times.wothout knowing the issue....thanks man Your are A True Life saver to me...I'm Blessed and Happy that I asked for the help

@@vagishgpatil3013 I’m so happy for you man! It could have been other issues, but I’m so glad we narrowed it down quick. Now go and enjoy your nice ride, RIDER!

Can you please send me a pic of what youre talking about....Im having these same issues and going insane

Pilot jet screws all the way in tight. Pilot screw is adjusted out aprox 1 1/2 turns