Awesome man! Glad I could help!

Same I my bike still down

hi pls assist im facing the same problem.Howdid you resolve it?

@@sifisognsibandze5476 👍I did resolve it! In my case it was the ignition pulse generator. It was an extremely hard time finding the problem. What have you tried doing so far? Are you sure it is a "no spark" issue?

@@joeygunzilla6878 yes my pump primes perfectly and i verified that all my sensors work

@@sifisognsibandze5476 do you know how to read the codes? Have you tried spraying starter fluid (or a tiny bit of gas) directly in the air intake? Is your battery FULLY charged? Are you using the original key? Old or new gas? How did it stop running, While riding or just no start after sitting?

Try these ones. If you still can't see it if you can point out what chip it is ill see if I can read it www.dropbox.com/s/tvmniiy1cn0iibt/20200423_182844.jpg?dl=0 www.dropbox.com/s/h124p1odmfu8p3e/20200423_183057.jpg?dl=0

The cam/crank sensors aren't supplied voltage, they create voltage. One wire should be grounded, the other wire goes to the ECU. With the motor stationary there should be 0v, and the voltage will spike every time a tooth passes the sensor when the motor is rotating. To test them you unplug and probe the two wires going into the sensor, you need a peak voltage adapter to make sure they are in the correct range but if you have an analog meter you can at least check if they are completely dead. If they are working you'll see the needle move but the actual reading is meaningless so it doesn't necessarily mean it is working correctly

Actually Watch the video

Both the ecu’s I took apart the lettering came off the top of the resistors so I don’t know what they said. If you can clean the board off they are numbered R743 and R744 on the connector side of the board. You can see 743 in this picture, 744 is to the right it’s a little harder to make out www.dropbox.com/s/h124p1odmfu8p3e/20200423_183057.jpg?dl=0

same question

iFixit adhesive remover

Sorry about the stupid question, I watched the video and got my answer thanks alot great video

That could be pretty much anything since the ECU turns off the spark to turn the engine off, you'll need to do a bunch of testing to figure it out. Side stand switch (spark will cut when not in neutral), lean sensor (can be bypassed by jumping the red and green wire), Ignition switch/zener diode (check for 9V on the pink wire at ECU), HISS (Chipped key if equipped - it's a regional thing), handlebar stop switch (check for 12V at engine stop relay), engine stop relay (check function), Crank and cam pulse generators (need a peak voltage adapter - see the manual for details), and check all the ECU grounds. It likely isn't the ECU itself that is the problem.

There is a pink wire that comes out of the ignition switch. It should have ~9v +/- 0.5v on it when the key switch is on. Check it at the switch and at the ecu plug. If it doesn't have 9v there is a zener diode in the ignition switch that needs to be replaced

It could, but it's pretty unlikely. It would require the resistors to slightly fail (increase resistance slightly) but that's pretty abnormal. Usually they either work correctly or not at all. If it's weak across all 4 holes I would make sure there is full voltage at the coil plugs and the grounds from the ecu are all good first. There's several star grounds throughout the wiring harness where a bunch of ground wires meet, they are known for sometimes corroding

How do u open it

@@allahcemen9864 Very carefuly with a sharp knife digging it up. It take a certain amount of time and patience.

Hi Scott. The problem outlined in this video doesn’t cause no prime, only no spark. No prime is usually the ‘pink wire’ (from the ignition switch to ecu, should have around 9 volts when key is on), or HISS if equipped, or the safety circuit (side stand, clutch switch, etc)

Regarding the 5 parts, the ones screwed into the large aluminum heat sink are IGBT’s not resistors. I don’t know if they can be read correctly without removing them from the board, depends a bit on circuits they are attached to I think.

@@vpsryder hey Sam thanks for getting back to me well I'm just trying to figure out when I bought this bike it wasn't running and I got it running after about a week because I found out about the pink wire now I have replaced my regulator rectifier stator and cam pulls generator. now as I stated I bought the bike running so I've been using a 9 volt battery to use to drop the voltage instead of a zener diode but now that I've replaced all these parts I'm not getting spark and I've tested out the resistors that you have been talking about in your video and they test fine I guess they're within spec from what you have explained so I don't know why I'm not getting any spark now when I use the 9 volt it only triggers the safe mode if I have my paper clip shorting out the plug and that works only if I apply the 9 volt but now when I apply the 9 volt the fuel pump won't come on and the fuel pump is good because if I jump for it it works I just can't figure out why it's not accepting this 9 volt drop anymore any thoughts cuz I've been working on this for forever in a day months almost a year ....

This issue wouldn't cause a fuse to blow. Really unlikely any ecu fault would cause blown fuses actually. You'll need to get a wiring diagram to confirm what fuse F powers. On mine it is for the instrument cluster, looks like on some 1000's it is the fan.

@@vpsryder Thanks Sam - you may have just saved me a small fortune. I'll have another look around. Although I have disconnected the cluster and the same issue appears. Will disconnect the fan and have another go.

I have the same issue with mine any luck ?

@Hector Vela Yes. Changed the ECU and issue solved. Could be many things though...

Thank you very

1 ohm didn't work on mine, I tried that originally. The two I have in there right now add up to 0.235ohm and they haven't given me any issues yet. I was guessing that the factory ones were 0.25ohm (2 in series so 0.5ohm total) but that was just based on what seemed most common. I never actually tried as I didn't have anything that added up to 0.5ohm so all I can say for sure is that 0.235ohm works well on my system. Putting in a higher resistance is safe, if it is too high it won't wreck anything it just won't work. If you try 0.5ohm first let me know how it works!

Sam Robinson what wattage do you recommend? Thank you for your help!

​@@thetylernelson As high as you can make fit! I don't know exactly what was in there originally because the markings came off, but the physical size suggests 5w. If you plugged in the circuit to constant power with .235 ohm total (what I have currently) over two resistors each one would be dissipating around 9 watts. Obviously this isn't the case as the circuit is only on momentarily as the plug fires but I don't know the duration so I can't calculate that. My guess is the 5 watt ones are probably big enough on paper but the problem is they are rated in a open air case, not under an inch of potting. Anything you can do to add wattage or increase heat dissipation would make them last longer. No problem! Hope that helps you!

Sam Robinson dude it Worked! Months of frustration is finally over! Thank you so much. By the way my bike is a CBR600f4i

Hell yeah bud! Glad it's working for other people, that's awesome!

Yes, that is how it should work. This issue with the ECU won't cause no fuel pump prime though. Look into the pink wire (or HISS if you're outside north America). There is a zener diode in the ignition switch that passes 9 volts down the pink wire to the ecu. If this wire doesn't have around 8.5-9.5 volts present the fuel pump won't prime.

Actually a faulty tip over switch could also cause this. It can by bypassed by jumpering the red/white and green wire. Leave the white/black disconnected

Ive replaced the 3.9volt 1/2 wat zenner diode it tested 9 v at the ecu still no prime the bank angle is jumped and kickstand is jumped

0.25 ohm total resistance, about 10w power rating. Something like this would work if you mount the resistor externally like I have in the video www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/vishay-dale/RS010R2500FE73/RSD-.25RCT-ND/1166587

@@vpsryder what if I wanted to cover up the hole, I saw in the description that I can use SMD's but I'm new to all of these electrical stuff and really don't know how ohm resitors

*work

2 x 0.47 ohm in parallel So 0.235 ohm total

Me servirán diodos de 5w 5%tolerancia y 0.22 homnios .ayudaaa

I can't think of any reason it would do that apart from having a short circuit somewhere on the ecu (ground) side of the coil wiring. I would try this: At the coil plug, turn the key on and test the black wire for power there should be battery voltage there. Turn the key off, do a resistance test from the other wire to ground. There should be no circuit. If there is a path to ground, unplug the ecu and try again. If there is still a path to ground then you have there a short in that wire somewhere in the harness. If the path to ground goes away there is a problem with the ecu. Alternatively you could re pin the ecu connector and switch the leads from coil two and three. If the problem moves the ecu is the issue, if it doesn't move its the harness

Fr