Fixing a Power Feed and How They Work!

Рет қаралды 80,694

2 жыл бұрын

This episode on Blondihacks, I show how a power feed works while I fix mine! Exclusive videos, drawings, models & plans available on Patreon!
/ quinndunki
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Пікірлер: 375

@Blondihacks 2 жыл бұрын

Hey everyone! As many noted below, what I called a “smoothing cap” on the micro switches is actually a metal oxide varistor. However I was correct about its application- to suppress transients from the switches.

@stevedaenginerd 2 жыл бұрын

**sniff** **sniff** They grow up so quickly! (In the best Dave Jones impression you can imagine!) Lol

@lumotroph 2 жыл бұрын

U so clever

@spdy3926 9 ай бұрын

hahaha

@RonCovell 2 жыл бұрын

"An impressive exercise in cost-cutting" - Great way to describe the nature of the electronics on that device!

@rpavlik1 2 жыл бұрын

Did you two coordinate power feed weekend?

@sonovoxx 2 жыл бұрын

@@rpavlik1 I was wondering the same thing, having watched one... and then the other pops up! ...both videos by total KZfaq legends too!

@bearsrodshop7067 2 жыл бұрын

Quinn is one smart cookie...Have fun over at Metal Bash with the guys,, Wish we could go, but work has piled up and pay's the bill's :)>.

@RonCovell 2 жыл бұрын

@@bearsrodshop7067 Yes, Quinn is not only smart - she explains her thoughts and process with unusual clarity, and finds ways to keep it fun! I'm sure it will be a great weekend. Maybe you can make it to the next one!

@scharkalvin 2 жыл бұрын

Yup, I remember those dimmer circuits. With an SCR, it's a half wave dimmer that can only reach half power for AC devices. There is an old trick of using the SCR to short the output of a bridge rectifier, and putting the load in series with the hot AC lead to that rectifier to get a full wave AC control from the SCR, they did that before Triacs were a thing. The Neon bulb fires at a known point (around 90v) on the AC slope, and an RC circuit in series with it varies the exact point in relation to the incoming AC so you get somewhere between 0 and 180 degrees of conduction angle, sorta PWM modulation of the power line, that controls a load. BTW, those neon bulbs age and their firing point moves, which can cause issues with the circuit. (maybe that's why it's been getting worse. New bulb?) Also the Neon bulb's firing point varies with light, so the circuit will work differently when the bulb is shielded from outside light (so it's interesting that they tried to use it as a power indicator!) As you pointed out, the bulb can be replaced with a proper diac diode (sorta kinda two zeners back to back in series, cathode to cathode or anode to anode). You probably could find a replacement potentiometer that would electrically work, but with a shorter shaft. Then you could drill and tap the shaft and an extension shaft, and then insert a headless screw (threaded rod) with lock tight to extend the shaft. Simple machining problem!

@azlandpilotcar4450 2 жыл бұрын

Perhaps the contamination on the carbon disk was the lubricating grease used on the entire assembly? There used to be electrically insulating grease used in components like that. I would enjoy watching your re-design and modification of the control circuit.

@bid6413 2 жыл бұрын

I’m impressed by the breadth of you technical knowledge Quinn. Having your understanding of electronics in your bag of tricks is great, good for you. Thanks for the explanation and congratulations on making a working “pig’s ear” out one that didn’t. Cheers, Will

@sonovoxx 2 жыл бұрын

16:50 I've fixed lots of old pots in a similar way, but I bend the brass springs so the wipers contacts a less worn track of carbon. Excellent sleuthing there.

@bobuk5722 2 жыл бұрын

Hi Quinn, I have a 230 volt version of this drive. There is not a no volt release switch so the drive will restart after a power failure even if the mill spindle does not. I also did not like the 230 volt supply being directly switched by the table travel limit switches which are close to any cutting fluid used. I built a control unit with an integral NVR switch, a 230 to 24 volt transformer and three 24 volt ac relays. This is fed it with 230 volts from the mill main supply switch and is also interlocked it with the mill NVR stop/start control switches. By including a 230 to 24 volt transformer I reduced the switching voltage on the table travel switches to a safe value. With some thoughtful design this extra control box can be disconnected and the various cables easily relinked to put the set up back to your configuration. BobUK.

@Dudleymiddleton 2 жыл бұрын

17:15 One of todays equivalents is Servisol super 10 switch cleaning lubricant. Magic stuff, it cures the scratchy pots/sliders on amps and mixers etc.

@underscorenul 2 жыл бұрын

I’ve had good luck with some of the products from DeoxIt. Pretty easy to get a hold of too.

@LenPopp 2 жыл бұрын

CRC also makes a contact cleaner which is not expensive, probably similar to the RS stuff, and available at Quinn's local Canadian Tire.

@Steve_R 2 жыл бұрын

@@LenPopp I don't think there are very many Canadian Tire stores in California :)

@LenPopp 2 жыл бұрын

@@Steve_R their loss

@chrissybabe8568 2 жыл бұрын

My experiences of repairing things like this tell me that I will be back into it sooner rather than later. Cleaning pots is only a temporary fix, they will never be as good as when new. However buying a replacement but with a shorter shaft will be an exercise in making a longer shaft to suit.

@Blondihacks 2 жыл бұрын

That may indeed be next

@VintageTechFan Жыл бұрын

@@Blondihacks And now you cheated by just getting a new mill with a new powerfeed ..

@KI4HOK 2 жыл бұрын

AvE on speed dial! Made my day!

@captianm4766 2 жыл бұрын

Hi Quinn, It is the nature of DC and AC brush/commutated motors to run at different speeds in in one direction. It has to do with the compromise position of the brushes to achieve the best torque at a desired speed and direction. For symmetrical speed the brushes can be rotated about the commutater with a constant field position. Not possible with the way your motor is built. Really enjoy the videos, keep them coming.

@mikerudin8261 2 жыл бұрын

I agree, and you can get the same asymmetry with a permanent magnet motor if the field and brushes are misaligned. I don't think it has anything to do with the neon, as the 'dimmer' circuit will see the same polarity all the time. Assuming a series-wound motor, the reversing is almost certainly done by swapping the direction of the field winding (or brush/commutator) with the two microswitches.

@captianm4766 2 жыл бұрын

@@mikerudin8261 exactly right. Her motor is probably a parallel wound motor as it needs torque not speed. Series wound motors are typically used in vacuum cleaners and other machines where the load is firmly attached at all times as they can exceed safe speeds if unloaded. A parallel wound motor will not reach destructive speeds as the back EMF will limit the speed unlike its series wound counterpart and can still be bidirectional with field reversal. Still. The speed control circuitry is pretty cheesy, I would have used a constant current field variable voltage setup personally. That would give a more constant torque curve across the range of speed.

@GoPaintman 2 жыл бұрын

I love the BOLTR style video. Especially the explanation of the circuit. Definitely would watch more of these.

@older-wiser-better 2 жыл бұрын

How does one even know all that stuff ? I‘m seriously even more impressed with your electronics knowledge than with your Maschinist excellence - which is very impressive in its own right! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

@rescdsk 2 жыл бұрын

You might enjoy the electronics projects on her blog, her homebrew computer and arcade pinball machine are both pretty epic

@older-wiser-better 2 жыл бұрын

@@rescdsk Already on it. Thanks a lot 😃

@johnbird8605 Жыл бұрын

Dear Blondihacks! Thank you for your video! I had a problem with my Chinese 'Bridgeport' which has the same cross feed drive. It kept going slower and slower until it eventually died!! I stripped the drive down but because of your examination I managed to save time trying to get the variable resistor out! I removed its cover and rotated it a number of times blowing it out clean with compressed air! 😊 Thank you!

@neffk Жыл бұрын

I recently had my ASONG AS-235 apart---a similar unit. The trace to R5 welded itself out of existence and left a smoking resistor in its wake. Some notes: The pot (RV24YN 78S B501) is available but mostly the 20S version, which has a shorter stem. The custom one is 78mm long and not available to the public. There's a CRC contact cleaner and Deoxit D5 is a favorite with electronics repair people---usually no disassembly required for pots. I traced the circuit and found that the neon bulb is strictly an indicator. Mine may be different from yours but I think the neon bulb is a way to avoid having any low-voltage section on the board but have a little light anyway. Neon is probably the best choice, if the voltage is set, because it is relatively low power and heat compared to the alternatives. It looks like the SCR is getting triggered by an RC network. The trigger circuit is directly between the gate and cathode and charges from the half-rectified mains (after it's taken a detour though the stator windings). The time constant is set by the resistance of R4 in combination with the zener-pot-R2-C2 circuit. I think that subcircuit kicks it the way an diac would. Not sure about that. ANYWAY, I tried to figure out R5 from stills of your video but just couldn't do it. Thanks for the video. It always makes me feel less insane when I see someone else doing similar things.

@spehropefhany 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the video. Circuit looks like a half-wave SCR phase controller GE SCR Manual ca. 1970. Possibly no EEs were harmed (or even employed) in the many revisions of that PCB over the decades. The blue disks are not capacitors- they are MOVs (metal-oxide varistors) to help reduce arcing. They "wear out" eventually and tend to fail short.

@GilgaFrank 2 жыл бұрын

8:00 The lightpipe might not be just to provide an indicator. Neons sometimes don't light in total darkness and need some ambient light to start the strike.

@Blondihacks 2 жыл бұрын

Good point!

@raymitchell9736 2 жыл бұрын

Right, I've seen that effect on power strips that have a neon indicator lamp that is old... maybe replacing that neon bulb would be the fix!

@spehropefhany 2 жыл бұрын

Some have a taste of radioactive gas in the neon to help ignition. Maybe 2 or 3 axial lead diacs in series would work.

@JonathanRockway 2 жыл бұрын

It wouldn't be engineering if your workaround didn't require another workaround.

@jdm2651 2 жыл бұрын

Great video, analysis and further comments. Thank you for teaching me.

@4U4U7 2 жыл бұрын

Amazing explanation. I really love your in-depth way of going in to the smaller things which also counts, all your videos are like that which is phenomenal. Thank you for your time and effort keep up the good work and keep well.

@johnfurr8779 Жыл бұрын

It is so refreshing to see an informative video from someone very knowledgeable that does not rely gimmicks or a a running diatribe of expletives.

@rshort4296 2 жыл бұрын

Even Sprocket knows you're not really fixing things unless you have bits left over the first time you put it back together.

@andrewfanner2245 2 жыл бұрын

The traditional watchmaking apprenticeship involves being given five watches and being told to take them all apart and put them all back together. When you can do that and build a sixth watch from the left over parts you have passed. If all the watches work you have passed with honours:-)

@d00dEEE 2 жыл бұрын

Indeed, in several shops where I worked, we called that "cost reduction."

@slypig24 2 жыл бұрын

My boss from our old machine shop added a large amount of odd parts to this new "plane o mill" that was being assembled by our Metal Fitters dept. Very funny when they couldn't work out where all the odd parts went. We had painted some of the parts to match exact colour of the new machine.

@bearbon2 2 жыл бұрын

I'm impressed as usual. You are a smarty! I have to think you own an analog multimeter which would have been better at showing inconsistencies in the potentiometer.

@MrJoeGarner 2 жыл бұрын

Great job! I'm impressed, but then again I've never doubted you!

@bobblack3870 2 жыл бұрын

I really enjoyed this. Looks like many of my "I've never done this, but maybe I can fix it if I can get it apart, but regardless, I'm learning something new." I'm impressed by your electronics knowledge.

@nbolin2879 2 жыл бұрын

Great video! I loved the AvE style tear down / inspection and the TOT-esque rebuild music. Thanks for sharing

@codprawn 2 жыл бұрын

Proper old school electronics there. Brought back memories. Noisy pots used to be the bane of my life!

@lloydmerrill 2 жыл бұрын

I rebuild a lot of old radios. Deoxit is the best thing to use to clean contacts. Love your videos.

@ADBBuild 2 жыл бұрын

If you have room to do it, putting a zip tie through/around a spring will keep it from springing-spronging into your face.

@allanmoore4794 2 жыл бұрын

Had a similar problem with my mill. I added a 200 ohm resister. to the 'A' pin on the resistor (I think,- it was a while ago and I have forgotten ) and it runs so much better at the low speed end where I use it most. It now runs smoother at these speeds and also has better control, by needing more twist of the knob to get the RPM to change.

@Blondihacks 2 жыл бұрын

Good idea!

@macsmachine2609 2 жыл бұрын

Good one Quinn. My Bridgeport II power downfeed speed controller has lost it’s mojo. I’M GOIN IN😂😂 Thanks for the motivation.

@Anrufbeantworter 2 жыл бұрын

I have a new ALSGS table actuator for 230VAC. Type ALB-310SX In it, the neon lamp is only used as a power-ON control in the switch. The forward and reverse microswitches reverse the field of the motor. The potentiometer gets a half-wave as a constant voltage and controls a tyristor that limits the rotor voltage of the motor. There is no trigger diode or DIAC built in. The speed is the same in both directions.

@firebird8600 2 жыл бұрын

Yay!! It's Blondihacks time! (Sorry I was late, I got caught up rebuilding the headliner in my mom's jeep)

@davemciver6577 Жыл бұрын

Oh my god what a punish just to get at a faulty Pot. Kudos to you Quinn for persevering.

@tedjar 2 жыл бұрын

Caig Labs Deoxit D5 in the spray can would be the replacement for the old radio shack contact cleaner. It's a miracle for anything with contacts that get intermittent. From audio equipment with dirty pots and jacks to that maglite that won't work unless you whack it against the table, it cleans contact surfaces and keeps them from getting dirty again for a long time.

@neillawson4493 2 жыл бұрын

The neon lamp should make no difference to the direction, the two microswitches should normally be used to reverse the polarity going to the DC motor after the SCR circuit. The difference in power in one direction is more likely to be in the motor or else something mechanical.

@henrikstenlund5385 2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, I built some controllers like that, around 1972. Not touched on SCR's after that since now we have much better parts and can embed a small cpu for total control. Thanks for sharing.

@gregorymertens6964 2 жыл бұрын

This is great Mrs. Hacks! I had to rip apart mine last year and replace the board. (One of the resistors had fried so badly that I couldn’t identity it). I tried fiddling around with getting some of the other parts off as well but didn’t make nearly as much progress as you. Mine has a similar problem where it won’t travel at slower speeds. So, I’ll add cleaning my pot to my list of to-dos. Loving your videos.

@sambrose1 2 жыл бұрын

Knipex Pliers Wrenches 😍😍 my faves!

@qcnck2776 2 жыл бұрын

I have that old Radio Shack Micronta multimeter. 20+ years and still going strong! One year it was left alone and the batteries all let out their innards into the compartment. A quick wipe with damp paper towels and its back in action.

@lordphullautosear 2 жыл бұрын

A good electronic contact cleaner was "Tuner Wash," for cleaning the manual UHF and VHF rotary channel selector switches. It worked well on relay contacts, automotive ignition points, and similar, too. IDK if they still make it, but if anyone runs across it, it's good stuff.

@TracyMNelson 2 жыл бұрын

Be careful with TV tuner cleaner, it often contains a light grease to lubricate the mechanical contacts. A better choice might be De-Oxit, which cleans but doesn't lubricate.

@carlwilson1772 2 жыл бұрын

I have one of these. In the UK they are sold with a separate transformer box to drop our 240 volt mains power to 120 volt to run them. I have a manual for mine with a drawing, and could email you a copy if you wish. I knew it was a thyristor with a neon lamp type circuit as the manual has a circuit diagram. Great work and excellent presentation as ever.

@moelarryshemp 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you very much for this video. I have one of these drives on my Taiwanese mill and although it's still working well after 14 years you never know when it will need surgery. The only trouble I've had with it has been perished rubber boots on the main switch and push button. I replaced them with rubberized material cut from fingertips of cheap work gloves, held in place wit hot melt glue.

@evanbarnes9984 2 жыл бұрын

I know you've said in the past that you think electronics projects are better in blog form, but I thoroughly enjoyed this video! I'd love to see more electronics from you too.

@jameslezak8179 2 жыл бұрын

Quinn, enjoying your videos.! My first comment though. I know about electricity but not electronics... Down to earth description and explanations of the power feed. By the way, with 53 yrs machining experience I'm impressed with your work habits and attention to details. Thanks for your time and sharing! 👍😎

@bigblue1402 2 жыл бұрын

I've watched this video about 5 times now. My power feed as totally packed up. Thanks for the dicetion

@VintageTechFan Жыл бұрын

17:32 .. this is where a classic analog multimeter shines ;)

@jeremy7923 2 жыл бұрын

So cool to have an electronics video related to machine tools! ❤

@TheKnacklersWorkshop 2 жыл бұрын

Hello Quinn, A good repair... and well explained, I often wonder how the aftermarket power feeds worked. Take care. Paul,,

@mattagnew206 2 жыл бұрын

I'd love to build one that reads the spindle speed and can calculate the feed per tooth on various cutters but my Arduino-fu is not strong enough. A project for an electronics nerd like BH maybe?

@MattOckendon 2 жыл бұрын

@@mattagnew206 Clough42 has you covered there with his electronic lead screw project

@mattagnew206 2 жыл бұрын

@@MattOckendon That's a bit more than I need, but it is an interesting project.

@AmateurRedneckWorkshop 2 жыл бұрын

I am glad you opened that up. I have some of those and always wondered what was inside. All of the adjustment is all on one end on mine. After a half turn you don't get much speed change at all.

@campingstoveman 2 жыл бұрын

You have the nack of making everything look easy 😃could the speed difference be anything to do with how the motor brushes bed in.

@dcsensui 2 жыл бұрын

Wow. You really know your electronics! Nice work.

@ron827 2 жыл бұрын

Good job and explanation as usual. I have found that an analog meter tends to reveal intermittent connects better than a digital meter. I too have a vintage can of RS tuner cleaner which might only be a temporary solution inn your case. When this pot acts up again, you could investigate the possibility of cutting the shaft off and making a coupler for connecting to a replacement short shaft pot. It might not be bad idea to also replace the neon indicator lamp.

@terrycannon570 8 ай бұрын

Quin I went back and rewatched this video yesterday because I accidently plugged mine into 220-volts and it is a 110-volt unit, I am writing just to say thanks for pointing out that is a regular power feed in it bolted to the horizontal adapter. I have 2 of the regular units so I should be able to make a swap. When I bought mine, I paid in excess of $400 usd from PM. The ones I got from Vevor are the same units rebranded. Also, I have found repair parts for mine are not too hard or too expensive. I am going to take it apart and hopefully it just smoked the breaker, but I will not know until i do the autopsy. Anyway, thanks for the detail you provided.

@tonypridham1253 2 жыл бұрын

Your overall knowledge of everything is amazing, yet another great video, thank you.

@jonathandill3557 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the timely reminder about contact cleaner it's just what I needed to give new life to my 35-year-old guitar 🎸🎶

@jonfreilich 2 жыл бұрын

I love this video! Please do more electronics explainers like this; you are so good at articulating your problem solving and though process that I learned a lot from this video.

@ego73 2 жыл бұрын

Yay! Finally incorporating electronics on your channel! More. Please!

@springwoodcottage4248 2 жыл бұрын

Fabulous video, a great delight and motivator to tackle stuff that challenges in so many different directions. Thanks for sharing!

@KW-ir5mf 2 жыл бұрын

Yep couple others saw that 400v MOV across that pot. Plumbers silicon grease for faucets will restore that damped spin on those pot shafts for everybody's fyi. Your channel is really great. Many thanks for all those hours you put into it.

@yodasbff3395 2 жыл бұрын

Impressive understanding of electronic circuits 👍👍👍.

@metabeard3788 2 жыл бұрын

A good modern equivalent of that Radio Shack contact cleaner is probably DeoxIT. I use it constantly.

@leerogers6423 2 жыл бұрын

Electrical talk usually goes so far over my head they can see it from the ISS, so well done for getting at least some of it into my tiny brain . Looking forward to seeing more .

@garymurt9112 2 жыл бұрын

Your range of knowledge is remarkable.

@andybogart2503 2 жыл бұрын

I understood very little of that, and was fascinated! Clearly I need to watch more of your videos :)

@vaderdudenator1 2 жыл бұрын

Entertaining and informative as always. Keep up the good work!

@rossgebert9422 2 жыл бұрын

Enjoyed this episode. Thanks Quinn.

@JorgenLarsson 2 жыл бұрын

Man that device is huge! Was looking for something small when I got my Grizzly clone but ended up building a $45 contraption with a nema stepper motor, seeduino and a driver. I can go super slow and way too fast if needed. Been using it for two years without any hickups.

@Blondihacks 2 жыл бұрын

Yah, it really doesn’t need to be this large for a mill this size. It’s quite a bit overpowered. But, they’re cheap I guess.

@troglokev 2 жыл бұрын

@@Blondihacks cost engineering. If there are two models that can share a motor, that’s a whole supply chain you don’t need. The smaller model is overpowered, but what the hey.

@SethKotta 2 жыл бұрын

Now I want to see you rebuild this thing. Dunno how practical that would actually be, though.

@Blondihacks 2 жыл бұрын

I might be inclined to replace it with a servo or stepper instead.

@slypig24 2 жыл бұрын

Very interesting to see it disassembled and reassembled. Cheers from Australia

@OtherBrotherDarylSmith 2 жыл бұрын

Great fix and video!!

@ericb6491 2 жыл бұрын

The over greasing is to prevent corrosion while products languish in distribution in the high humidity of Guangzhou and Shenzhen ports.

@terrytopliss9506 2 жыл бұрын

Well done Quinn,you’re really clever.👍👍

@Downtheshed 2 жыл бұрын

Really useful stuff. Examination component level 👍👍

@danielchapa2112 2 жыл бұрын

You sure know your Electronics! I am impressed, you have many talents!👍🏼👍🏼😊

@johnmcclain3887 2 жыл бұрын

I've never been inside one of these, although I've used many in my day. Very interesting, clearly good electronics experience, I've worked electronics almost sixty years, never ran across the use of a neon light instead of a diac. I learn something new every day! Thanks.

@RustyInventions-wz6ir Ай бұрын

Very interesting. Nice work. Thanks. I’m sure this is going to help me in the future.

@strongarmedkevin 2 жыл бұрын

Radio shack contact cleaner is amazing. I think i have also used up my can that is 10+ years old. I have found 3 good alternatives for cleaning electronic contacts. 1. Isopropanol alcohol, 90+% is better for electronics. 70 can be used but takes longer to evaporate. clean with canned air 2. Electro Klene by Stoner, this is alcohol based, evaporates with no residue 3. Deoxit red & gold. this will leave a residue, but it cleans and restores electric connections. especially gold plated ones. It does leave a reside that you have to clean off with alcohol.

@justovision 2 жыл бұрын

It's nice to see come electronics on the channel too. An analog multimeter is handy to have around for testing pots.

@danielpirone8028 2 жыл бұрын

Loved the explanation - thank you!

@joeybobbie1 2 жыл бұрын

Hi Quinn, I went back and checked my Power Feed adjustment on the Drive Wheel clearance. Sure enough I could feel the Motor when it was in Nuetral and manually feeding. Readjusted and it’s a lot better. Thanks for a very interesting Video. I’ll know what to look for if mine develops a problem.

@DcChoc 2 жыл бұрын

Great problem solving! For improvised power feed on my manual bench mill, I just use a cordless drill. It's super controllable and advantage is, you can also use it on Y (cutting) and Z (just to make it easier to lift the head for tool changes etc). Same applies to the lathe - it's great for the cross feed.

@mattagnew206 2 жыл бұрын

And power compound on the lathe!

@69dragons 2 жыл бұрын

Since you suspect the neon is causing the asymmetry in feeds, I would be curious if reversing it would make a difference.

@624Dudley 2 жыл бұрын

I was wondering that too. It’s not obvious to me how the motor direction relates to a difference in circuit condition over at the neon lamp.

@darrelljones7879 2 жыл бұрын

Hi Quinn. I had a similar problem with my power feed. I found an exact replacement at Travers Tools. This part might be made cheap but they sure aren’t sold cheap. Just over $100 got me back up and running. I’m not an electronics guy at all but I’m going to clean up the old potentiometer and keep it as a spare! Thanks for the great video!

@twobob 2 жыл бұрын

Was surprised you didn't order the DIAC while you were browsing, Good job on this.

@DawidKellerman 2 жыл бұрын

Cant wait for the new board to be made ;)

@citylockapolytechnikeyllcc7936 2 жыл бұрын

CRC brand "QD Electronic Contact Cleaner". Napa Auto Parts is one of many places you can get it. or find the hobby chain where Radio Shack is supposed to re-emerge, according to Dan Maloney as stated on Hackaday: According to the ARRL website and major media reports, up to 50 of the 147 US locations of HobbyTown, the brick-and-mortar retailer of RC and other hobby supplies, will soon host a “RadioShack Express” outlet. Each outlet will be up to 500 square feet of retail space devoted to electronic components that would be of use to HobbyTown’s core customer base, as well as other merchandise and services. YAY, I will finally be able to get that missing channel 18 transmit crystal for my 1970s CB Radio!

@raymitchell9736 2 жыл бұрын

I paused the video and tried to reverse engineer the circuit... and I was puzzling, I saw that 10W toaster oven, err, ceramic wire-wound resistor, and I've seen neon bulbs in oscillators, and even incandescent bulbs to balance in-rush current, but I wondered how that would play into a motor control, I hadn't yet connected the dots, my brain didn't go to "dimmers" but once you said it I was "Ah HA!" that's right!!! Now it makes sense!!! And I was very happy to hear you talking about some power switching electronics: triacs, diacs, and SCRs, I know of about them, but I don't work with them (I do mostly digital and op amps)... Still, just hearing about them again took me back to my days in college electronics courses in semiconductors. Thanks for the electronics "refresher" of sorts... Cheers!

@emilyselwood6456 2 жыл бұрын

Excellent and fun video. Very close to a repair café type situation. Can't wait for those to open up again. Things never go back together first try 😂

@lv_woodturner3899 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the video, Interesting and useful. I have a similar unit on a 1999 mill. I thought my "power light" bulb was broken. I did not bother to take apart since otherwise working. I will now be comfortable with the light apparently not working, well not producing photons, but it seems to be in the AC to DC conversion. Dave.

@donmittlestaedt1117 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Quinn

@davidtaylor6124 2 жыл бұрын

Fantastic!

@pileofstuff 2 жыл бұрын

I thought I was the only one who still has that old Micronta meter in (mostly) working order.

@Blondihacks 2 жыл бұрын

40 years and counting on that thing. It just keeps going

@TheAyrCaveShop 2 жыл бұрын

Enjoyed ! Thanks Quinn...

@MyTubeSVp 2 жыл бұрын

Great video Quinn !

@bitjockey6265 2 жыл бұрын

I learned years ago that you can clean electrical contacts by dragging a dollar bill between the two faces of the contacts. The fibers in the bill are mildly abrasive and can help remove contamination.

@larryshaw6517 2 жыл бұрын

Maybe an external ten turn pot. Nice to see there are people out there that aren't afraid of component level repair.

@OtherBrotherDarylSmith 2 жыл бұрын

Wow, I am impressed that you know so much about electronics. Great video. I would make sure that the tapered gib is locked in with both end screws and the gib isn't trying to lock in going towards the small end of the taper. I would have bet the gib was binding up.

@txranger43 2 жыл бұрын

I love your knowledge of all things! It would be very interesting to to you replace the light with a diac/triac solution. After I watched your latest video I looked this up. Thanks

@Wafu64 2 жыл бұрын

Been a huge fan of your channel, keep up the great content :)

@tomburson5554 2 жыл бұрын

Nice work!

@boblewis5558 2 жыл бұрын

This video demonstrates in the BEST way possible that GOOD engineers design things to be easily disassembled and NOT assembled, a lesson taught to me as a student engineer almost 50 years ago by a genius designer. If it disassembles easily AND modularly it makes maintenance that much easier and assembly (& re-assembly) becomes a piece of cake. Example: that RIDICULOUSLY long pot spindle shows that the bean counters weren't as smart as they thought! 1. It's almost certainly a non-standard, custom design, possibly made exclusively for the manufacturer. 2. As such it would be substantially more expensive than a standard, off the shelf unit available from countless manufacturers. 3. Trickier and more complex assembly operation overall 4. OBVIOUSLY the designer had NEVER seen inside old radios since the CORRECT solution is a VERY simple one, and often used in old radio sets ... A 'D' shaft coupler or extension rod! Doh! That way, ONLY the two bolts for the bracket would have needed removing, the shaft coupler disconnected and bingo the whole sub-assembly gets removed. Just buying a standard 'D' shaft pot, available from multiple sources (or use a round shaft and a minute on the grinder!) fixes the issue properly! Excellent video on how to repair something tricky but otherwise simple.