If you watch all the way to the end of the video you will see how I use my leftover epoxy!

Hey. Very well done video! The music isn’t annoying. The information is straightforward and the demonstration is awesome. And since you said ask, I’m asking. I have used 2x lumber I want to use as shelves. Instead of hiding the nail/screw holes I want to use bright colored epoxy. Blues/purples. Some “experts” say I need deep pour. Some say any resin will work. Help please. I’m an old blind chick who wants to get it as close to right the first time as she can. Thank you! 😎

Yessss that relaxing KZfaq woodworking goodness

What?! Epoxy tables are NOT just river tables?! Revolutionary 😂 In all seriousness, this was quite helpful with a project, thanks!

such calming background music, I love it

Not only was this a very straightforward and concise video, but I just gotta say that the background music was really gorgeous.

Even knowing it's epoxy, the knot fill blends in perfectly with the surrounding wood! Great work

Fantastic! Exactly what I needed to know. I'm laying some hardwood (red oak, white oak and hickory mix) in my house and it is grade 3. At $0.89/ft I'll gladly fill in some gaps and holes! The cost savings more than pays for the epoxy. Thanks for the video!

Great video! A surprise 2 in 1! Filling knot holes and impromptu coasters!!

That is exactly the information I need for this table top I am making for a client. I got a lot of old black walnut slabs that were cut in the early 1970's and sitting in the millhouse for all of that time. Bugs got in the wood and did what they do so there are some holes and tunnels that need filling. I was thinking that I would have to make a mold and do the whole thing in epoxy but that would be major overkill as I am not making a river table or anything of the sort. I just need to fill the holes and tunnels and knots. This is the perfect solution. Thanks for the video!

I like knotted wood and if the knot is loose and done correctly, makes the project pop! Good Job!

Once again Jess I get to thank you! I have a bunch of walnut from a log at my neighbor's walnut tree and much of it is unusable that is until I saw this video. So I just got my Total Boat Epoxy, and the Card Scraper and Diamond Hazelnut tint are arriving today. I will be using it today as you illustrated in the video to fix some defects in a Wlnut Serving tray. I always earn from you Jess!

I have had good results from combining unused ground coffee beans in the epoxy. It gives the fill an organic look when planed and sanded and accepts finishes well. Different varieties of coffee have definite different shades of brown which allows you to match wood well, and since we like a variety of coffees, it cost nothing to keep a small amount of each. Hope this helps!

Awesome information thank you

exactly what I was looking for, thanks

Great way to save a nice board. The figure around that knot was great. I like the dye you used rather than a charcoal black. Thanks. I will give it a try.

That epoxy is awsome! that wood is totaly restored! great video man!

Nice video. Any tips on filling a 2 1/4 inch deep hole? Should I fill it all at once or do it in 1/4 inch stages? If in stages do I let it dry completely before continuing? Thanks 😄

I love tints dyes etc.....but no need to use tint "unless" the hole on the other side will actually see light(rare) in the final piece. Plain clear epoxy(or slightly amber will mimic the color of the hole below and wood surrounding almost perfectly; it will even look more like wood and it won't darken the wood around it like tints will. Give clear a try!

Hello Jessy. WOW! Thanks so much for your video, very useful and clear! I would be grateful if you could give me a suggestion. I left a bottle of gel bleach in a bag on the floor. It is an old, light colored, parquet; therefore, there is a very thin line of empty space between the pieces of wooden strips. For some reasons, the gel bleach leaked and, since the bag was not made of plastic (it was a cloth bag), it passed through and got to the floor. It stayed there for a very long time. The gel bleach had the time to literally dig a large hole in the parquet. Which now looks like a crater, about 6 cm or more in diameter, exposing the bottom layer of the floor, some sort of strange material. I thought to fill it with epoxy glue (Gorilla epoxy with the 2 syringes), wait that it dries, and then paint. I am glad to find out that I can mix the paint with the glue itself. I need to fix this quickly. It's not my home. I would be GRATEFUL if you could help me with the following questions: 1) Since I cannot fill from the back side, how do I address the need to leave a thin line between the wooden strips? (yes, the crater extends beyond 1 strip, affecting the two confining strips at its two sides too. 2) If I send you a picture of the parquet (how/where can I send it? Thanks), would you be able to tell me, approximately, what colors of what kind of paint should I buy? 3) I cannot spend much money on huge tanks, so, is the Gorilla Epoxy glue with 2 syringes ( www.homedepot.ca/product/gorilla-epoxy/1000778451 ) suitable for this job and can I mix that type too with the paint? 4) If the epoxy will end up overflowing, how can I gently smooth it without damaging the surrounding healthy parquet? 5) Any other suggestion? Like, if it had happened to you, what would you have done saving as much time and money as possible? THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I will anxiously wait for your response and my apologies for the long comment. (Loved the leftover epoxy idea! :) ). Kind regards.

Dude awesome video. I am going to try fixing my plastic trim with your techniques taught. Thanks.

This was super helpful!

Great video! Very useful information!

If you put a screw or bolt in the center of that hole, would the epoxy solidify such that the bolt will not move, even with force?

That turned out fantastic! Can holes like that be filled using a 5 minute epoxy?

Thanks for the video. I am making a desk for the kids and plan to stain the wood. Should I do the Epoxy on the knots first, then sand, then stain? It seems like that is the way to go. Thanks for the video... probably gonna buy the Total Boat just because the mixing is so easy!

Nice one bro, thanx:)

Thank you

Can you suggest any low or no VOC epoxy fixes for boards, and perhaps any that are already mixed with a hardener? I want to repair a knot hole in my spiral staircase and need to do the epoxy fix inside the house. Bad allergies to chemical smells. Thanks!

Brand of epoxy do you recommend for hardwood flooring when filling knots?

Thanks for the easy to follow video.

Thanks

Great job, but I liked the knot!

Ive found curing times are NOT as printed when filling knots in wood. Ive used many quality epoxies. I believe it has more to do with the quantity or thickness of the epoxy application can have drastic effects. Id like to see a video that covers this.

I really like how this turned out. I've never used epoxy and don't really care for the bright metallic looking river bed tables. Can you advise if the diamond epoxy gives a metallic/sparkly finish? It doesn't appear to in the video however I may opt for a more flat pigment if it looks sparkly in reality.

Great video - very helpful. A question on the Total Boat epoxy. Is it super stinky?

I look great, but wonder this epoxy can be applied for pine wood - soft one? and after planning this wood foil can go for molding without any problem? the final product is wood skirting. Please advise

This vid is very helpful, just wondering if it works the same on large open cracks due to natural wood and not stress cracks. How about knife scales with tung oil or Tru oil finish . I usually use Loc Tite epoxy to bond scales just wondering if same would fill cracks and knot holes

Thx

Any tips on resawing a board after filling voids with epoxy? I have a 3x5-in juniper board with some really cool knotholes and voids that I'd like to turn into 3/4" shelves. Is it better to do a deep pour then resaw, or resaw first and fill twice as many holes?

great video! thanks!

Thank you for this video. My issue is filling knots in hardwood that is already laid. How could this method be used to do that without being able to flip the board?

Is it necessary to clean out any splinters or pieces that are barley hanging on? Some of them add character, rather than having a larger epoxy circle. I’ll be using a black tint.

I have a question for ya!! Do you think that this technique will work out good for hardwood floor holes and voids?

Nice!

Thank you for your video. I purchased some cedar woods for facia. There are many knots holes on the cedar boars. One of the knots hole came loose, should I fix it or return to Lowe's?

Ok few things. I'm playing now with epoxy and filling up knots on oak boards that I'll be using for treads. Brand I used was called Epodex and it was curing for 2 days, not sure if it can be so drastically different and if it's normal. I also used painters tape but it was a total fiasco. It started squeezing through and leaking out, total disaster. Is this tape in any way special

Can I use sawdust (cedar) as a pigment to add to the epoxy? Thanks!

Hey was it the matte hazelnut? And which is darker hazelnut or there mahogany? Thanks

Lmao about the river tables comment!

what if the teak furniture has a slightly glossy/oily finish ?......how to repair the hole and cracks (on a vertical surface) without messing up the finishing around the defects ?

I have a wooden door I'm hanging as a pantry door. There was an door knob that i gave removed. What is the best way to fill this hole so that I can stain the door…? Is minwax wood filler better idea ??

quick question from some one just new at all this, as I said very new to this and am wondering what are the pros and cons to using cood colouring for pigment with epoxy?

How do you like your Dewalt planer? I have been using a Porter Cable bench top planer for a while now and it works well overall. However, the snipe is pretty bad at times. I was wondering how bad the snipe is on the Dewalt?

I have a dining table from Ashley’s and it has holes, it’s a finished table so I’m not sure if o can sand it what’s the best way to fix this?

This is an awesome video. Do you have any recommendations for knotholes that are already in installed wood trim? Meaning the wood is already vertical and I can't remove it. Can you use the same painters tape trick and sand in place?

Would this work for filling the handle screw holes in cabinet doors? Plan on painting then. Thanks.

What is the shelf life of the epoxy? It would take me a long time to get through that.

Looks great. I may try this on a walnut desktop I’m working on. What finish do you then recommend? Any finishes that don’t work well /won’t stick well to the epoxy?

great job on video content & quality! Sub'd

What do you do when it's still in the floor and the hole goes all the way through to air?

If I used this method, Can I paint the piece of wood in white without the fear of getting knot bleeding through out the paint leaving a stain mark. I wanna build a twin bed frame with some 2x4 from my local Home depot, but they have knots,,,

What tape did you use?

The epoxy i tried is 72 hour cure time..this seems more practical what is the brand

nice job. whats the title of background music?

Hi There! Thank you for this great video, very helpful. One question though-- you mention in the description that you recommend filling large voids in layers. What constitutes as a large void? My particular knot is about 1.5"x1"x1.25". I wouldn't call it "large" but this is new for me. Based on the knot you filled in the video, I think it's probably ok to do in one pour, but figured I'd ask first.

What was brand of tint you used? Thanks

Do you clean the knot? Or does the epoxy stabilize it?

How much epoxy did you mix for that size hole? (Approximately)

Is the pigment just an oil stain or is it something purpose made to mix with epoxy resin?

What color pigment you used on walnut

How to fix a fence with the knots, or how to stop them from happening?

if it's a piece your gonna stain would you stain it first?

Am I missing the link for the tint?

Where exactly does one buy the like your using at? Lowes? Thanks

My cherry picnic dining table is beautiful, but there is exposed wood that the polyurethane either never covered, or it has worn off. I'm assuming I need to clean those spots first because there are some food particles in there, then I should use epoxy to fill in those knot holes or imperfections, but there are some areas that may just need more polyurethane. How should I begin this project, or should we take it to a professional? I could send pictures. BTW, I am super anal about this table, as my grandfather made it from a cherry tree in his yard, many years ago. Thanks for any help you could give.

Why does the link take me to a 5:1 epoxy?

where is the link, sorry that I could not find it.

"Milled to final width." You meant "thickness."

Good video, but your audio is way too hot and you're clipping all over the place.

Woodworking has gone from a painstaking art form to yahoos pouring goo in a hole & proclaiming themselves tradesmen...

Hello Jessy. WOW! Thanks so much for your video, very useful and clear! I would be grateful if you could give me a suggestion. I left a bottle of gel bleach in a bag on the floor. It is an old, light colored, parquet; therefore, there is a very thin line of empty space between the pieces of wooden strips. For some reasons, the gel bleach leaked and, since the bag was not made of plastic (it was a cloth bag), it passed through and got to the floor. It stayed there for a very long time. The gel bleach had the time to literally dig a large hole in the parquet. Which now looks like a crater, about 6 cm or more in diameter, exposing the bottom layer of the floor, some sort of strange material. I thought to fill it with epoxy glue (Gorilla epoxy with the 2 syringes), wait that it dries, and then paint. I am glad to find out that I can mix the paint with the glue itself. I need to fix this quickly. It's not my home. I would be GRATEFUL if you could help me with the following questions: 1) Since I cannot fill from the back side, how do I address the need to leave a thin line between the wooden strips? (yes, the crater extends beyond 1 strip, affecting the two confining strips at its two sides too. 2) If I send you a picture of the parquet (how/where can I send it? Thanks), would you be able to tell me, approximately, what colors of what kind of paint should I buy? 3) I cannot spend much money on huge tanks, so, is the Gorilla Epoxy glue with 2 syringes ( www.homedepot.ca/product/gorilla-epoxy/1000778451 ) suitable for this job and can I mix that type too with the paint? 4) If the epoxy will end up overflowing, how can I gently smooth it without damaging the surrounding healthy parquet? 5) Any other suggestion? Like, if it had happened to you, what would you have done saving as much time and money as possible? THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I will anxiously wait for your response and my apologies for the long comment. Kind regards.