Thanks to this and a couple of other videos I watched, I was able to remove, open, and regrease my 2013. It was very clean inside but, it had no grease left to speak of. The car now pulls away from a stop and goes through the gears much more smoothly. Thanks again.

It really helps when you get into the computer and do a clutch relearn after doing this

I had to replace the actuator around 2015 for 800 euro, the wormgear was broken. Now i have the reverse problem from time to time, i will try this. Thanks!

When I took mine out for repair/servicing, the actuator crescent was at the other position. Fully extended actuator, horrendous, no automatic sliding actuator possible, trying to get the assembly back onto the car was an ongoing nightmare, I had to open the unit up again and push the 'lockbar' to allow the 'plunger' to retract, then hold it retracted with wire until I got the cover back on and the unit fitted. And now it doesn't work at all!!! Update is that battery somehow ended up flat and when charged up and turned on, the actuator worked. Did a few gear operations with ignition on but no engine running. Then started car, EML stayed on, 2x codes, P0335 and P0805, Clutch position error and crankshaft sensor. Cleared both faults and tested car. Alternator charging at 14.1v at rest and revving. Car running well. Will keep you updated. I don't know why the motor was in operated [actuator fully out] position. I had driven the car forward into the garage yesterday and car was in neutral when I switched it off to begin the job. Can the motor be removed and the crescent slowly rotated by hand to 'service position'? Would the large spring do anything weird?

I have done the same job on my smart 2001. Not the same actuator but the same principle! Thank you very much!!!

Thanks for posting this tutorial, so helpful.

Just did that to my moms car. There was no grease at all in it! There was lots of corrosion inside. Works great now.

Thanks great video my 2009 Just suddenly died this morning after a clunking noise and now won't start so will be focusing on the actuator. Love my smart first thing in 3yrs it let me down.

Thanks. Will give this a shot on my 2012. Get gear jams on rainy days and in winter. So annoying. I had to buy a second vehicle because of this issue. Hopefully a seal replacement and re-grease solves the issue.

Thank you so much for sharing this. My 09 ForTwo has extremely rough shifts when it rains/too much water on road. I'm guessing that gasket inside has gone bad on mine. I was afraid this was going to be very difficult and expensive, but now I see it looks quite easy to remedy.

I noticed the same on mines, but i also noticed that there is some sort of blower that comes on ( located on the rear passenger side of the motor). If you wait until that fan shuts off, it switches gears perfectly. Almost like the motor has to get vacuum build up for the engine before its warmed up. Usually this blower turns off after about 45 seconds to 1 minute. If i don’t wait, it will only show park and neutral

Did you get an engine management light come on when you’re gear changes was getting bad prior to greasing the actuator?

I had to re grease my 450 actuator a few years back, ultimately the actuator failed after another couple of years. The early actuators did not have removable cover. I have the same delphi tester. One thing thats really good to do is fork lean learning. Car clunks all the gearbox forks for 30 seconds. Gearchange so much better after doing it.

when you started the car.could the voltage drop as the starter is drawing the currant. this will cut out connection to code reader. you could try the procedure with car running, ?? or connect a starter charger. poss?

How does that turbo feel I have n/a model but I love it 2012 smart for two passion Thanks for your video my friend

Great vid. What was the software you were using to relearn the clutch ???

Smart car 👌

Hi, thanks for you tutorial. One stupid question? Do you first turn off the key before you disconnect the battery?

So, the cover you take off to access the internals of the clutch mechanism is facing the ground when the unit is still in the car. Therefore it seems to me, that you could do this cleaning and greasing process with the unit in the car. Just lay on your back under the car and work away. No need to take it out and to the work bench... Thank you though, for showing how the clutch adjustment tool works, I need to go find me one of those for my car, just to be sure the clutch is always in proper adjustment.

Hi, good vid. U put in reverse b4 removing the actuator, orgers say N , whats best please

Nice video. When I use the delphi ds150 to teach clutch, all I get is "wrong answer". Do you know why this would be, then of courser the P0180 code is registered.

what gear do you leave the car in when taking out the Acutator? I do not have any of the electronics you have but could get that don't at the Mercedes dealership where the car was purchased, correct? is it necessary?

I am having a problem the car seems to have like a trans lock and won't move off in forward or back. Seems like rusting on something and not releasing I put a long arm wheel brace on and shook it lose by hand forward and back rocking and got a clunk and it released what part is faulty to do this?

Really love your videos, easy listening: EXCEPT the ridiculously loud intro music. Please consider it. Thanks!

Great video, I’ve just replaced the actuator on my wife’s 451, due to a failing one, reset ecu with Delphi but thing won’t start now

Nice, so in the end theres no reprogramming needed? The electric motor can be serviced or that just leave there? Anyway nice brabus, mine is a Passion Turbo

I have a 2009 451 0.8 CDI "automatic" gearbox, and my issue is different from what I've seen around. Whenever I shift to D or R, it just drives while bouncing, stuttering, like the shift isn't really engaged. Sometimes it just stalls, and engine turns off. I'm thinking of opening the actuator to clean it and grease it anyways. Have you ever experienced this issue ?

Wouldnt the actuator be actuated when you put it in reverse, so when I took it off the spring is released and has a lot of tension. Now its a pain in the ass to put it back and im putting a lot of tension to manually push the clutch fork

sorry, i know this is an older video, but where can i purchase the software you using in this video to “relearn” the gears? is it available to the public?

did your smart came with the Brabus Sport Steering wheel?

My clutch is slipping on highway and smelling after slipping, not jerking or any problems with shifting or starting to drive tho....

So 1 year later, did this end up fixing your issue?

What software are you using on the laptop?

Is the lithium grease mandatory or I can use another kind of grease ?

What OB reader is that ?, I want one 👍🏻

Hello @jazda Hellos friends, please i need help, I just bought a 2007 Smart 451 Diesel, When I start it there is the yellow engine light that stays on (1 time out of 5), On the other hand, when it stays on, the car apparently goes into Safe mode (Security) and therefore no function works, nor the change of gears, nor acceleration. I decided to change the actuator (the speed actuator) I bought a cheap one on Cdiscount without brand, Apparently it does not come from there, I changed the gearbox computer, it does not come from that either, I carried out a Mercedes diagnosis at a Smart Mercedes specialist in Marseille, the gearbox update etc. ... failed and the faults that come out are: P0805 “Clutch System Fault” (current in memory) P1700 "Resisting torque at gearbox input (current in memory) P1800 "Implausible gearbox data (current and stored event). Something else, The car sometimes starts cold and stops like it doesn't have enough power, so I cleaned the EGR valve, put it back in and it wouldn't start, I had to redo it started with a start pilot spray can, Then it worked normally, but yesterday it went out again when I started (cold engine), infact sometimes I have to accelerate a little so that it stays started (but only when cold on the first start) I should mention that I changed the glow plugs too. Anyway, my real problem is that famous yellow engine light that prevents me from driving when starting, I also specify that the Diagnostics guy, to find a method so that the light goes out when it is on just to drive, he plays with the gearbox by switching to R, N, D, 1 quickly several times in a row, and when he does this the light disappears, the engine speed changes (we feel like a slight acceleration), and then, once the yellow engine light is off, I can drive... Please help me, because I'm afraid to change the clutch unnecessarily, especially since the car is only 60,000 kilometers old. Thanks very much.

Can I ask what diag tool you used

So give us an update - did it fix the problem?

Can you help me, my smart fortwo don't show me the letter N in the screen when the car is in neutral position

The other tool in the battery what is?

I’m having such a hard time adjusting from the mx5 to the smart. It’s not a Brabus and feels like the complete opposite to the 5.

The car star but don't go Forward, don't go in reverse

Its gotta turd bolt ? What's that do ? Is it some kind of weird German thing ???

Slan ?

If you do another one get rid of the music

Czemu pieprzysz po amerykansku będąc Polakiem

This is a total waste of time If it won’t go into gear it’s because the clutch is finished New grease in the actuator does absolutely nothing