I wouldn’t mind longer videos. Simple setting, calm presentation without loud music and no nagging about likes and subscriptions make this channel enjoyable.

Wow, that inclinometer goes for a lot more than I thought. I got a smile from the comment "I cannot see a thing but I think its working". I could imagine myself thinking that using the steam gun. Good progress on the restoration. Dave.

Just a quick thing on glues if I may, the bonds formed by PVA woodworking glue, both the white and yellow types, are very strong if done well, literally stronger than the wood itself (in all species, even the very strong ones). But to reliably get this sort of strength requires high clamp pressure (this is how you get invisible glue lines), and it's difficult to arrange for this kind of clamping sometimes such as on the awkward shape of plane handles! Where you can't apply lots and lots of clamp pressure it's better to rely on epoxy as your glue of choice. And as I think you already know because of the plan to glue in the dowel reinforcement with it, epoxy is great for where you need some proper gap filling. For most repairs I like to tint my epoxy black with just a dab of black paint, and I know you have some of that in the shed somewhere :-) Oh by the way, _excellent_ call on cleaning the woodwork up after glueing it all back together! I can't say how often I've seen people who knew there was a crack or split they'd need to deal with go ahead and clean up the handle, even strip off old finish, with the result that of course they contaminated the break surfaces with all that gack and dirt! This also runs the very great risk of rounding over what might otherwise be very sharp edges that may have come together invisibly.

Good to see progress on this. And Mark beat me to it but nice one on giving the seller a bit extra! I got a stonking deal on something one time from a seller at a car boot who didn't know what he had (and I didn't either when I got it, although I suspected a good 'un) and I felt bad for ages that I couldn't find him again and hand over even a token amount as a thank-you. Not sure what you watch on KZfaq so you may have seen this already but I stumbled across a vid posted two months ago since watching part 1 of this series, from Crimson Custom Guitars. Not sure if I can link to it in the comments but if you do a search for infill plane here on YT and order the results by date it's the third one, under your two :-) His goal was a sympathetic restoration which I think is right up your alley, and although I wouldn't personally 100% agree with every choice he made on it or the method used, my goodness, the transformation!! P.S. one of the other comments you read out referred to the throat? More accurately this refers to the passage through which the shavings pass, _not the opening in the sole_ which is the mouth. I think he meant the mouth, which we saw in the first video was very tight (a feature of most infill smoothers and panel planes, and considered a sign of quality). On planes in general with a cap iron/chipbreaker a tight mouth isn't actually a must-have, but that's a rabbit hole for another day :-)

Ha! I'm certainly glad I made mention of the inclinometer thing now! And good for you for slipping the original seller a little bit of your windfall - we need more of that attitude in our world. Those oil cans are terrific! I imagine you could make a wee turn on those too. Cheers Steve.

If you can get a brass shoe brush they are great for removing glue without to much damage .the steel work use wirewool and wd 40

If there are gaps to fill use appoxy instead of wood glue.

The pllane handle is a mixture of woods it would of been made as a one sort of wood ie rosewood mahogony the whitewood seen in this video confirms my original statement its the wrong handle .

Whens the auction, I'll have look?