Thank you so much! Means a lot my Friend! 🙏🏽😊

Exactly.....no life story or trip to the store...straight to the point...great

its all bs, sorry

Thanks for the wet n fix tip 😉

Dope tip!

Perfect, thanks.

So did it work though.has it held up being 4 months later.

Glad you said to wrap then dip!

I’m so glad I could be of help it works amazing!🙏🏽😊 thank you for the feedback!

I just watched it, and just ordered the wt-n-fix. lol gonna solve an issue and get me out of the dog house!

Thank you so much friend! Means a lot for your love and support! 🙏🏽😊

Exactly. I encountered this recently hanging a corner shelf. I tried to repair it with putty, twice, drying overnight each time. Both failed. So just went and got butterfly clips…much stronger too.

Highly agreed, the most effective solution is a butterfly anchor.

Yup we use toggle bolts to hang strut on drywall then strut straps to run conduit on

hollow wall anchor would be better than this as well

I totally agree !!!!

Thank you Bruce! Stay tuned for part 2! I’ll be doing a second video on all who commented on some suggestions! Stay tuned!

What brand?

Yeah I did the same thing when I accidentally shot a pin nail through my roof. My neighbor told me I probably could have saved a buck or two by putting a little tar on the hole but pffft what the hell would he know about construction? He's just a brain surgeon!

Funniest comments ever

YOOOOOOOOOOUUU IDIOT! All Ya' Had to do was flip the drywall so the hole's on the inside of the wall! GEEZ!

That’s why I avoid all anchors and gamble on just screws

Thank you so much for sharing this advice to the community! 🙏🏽😊

Indeed I have used that on plasterboard, My biggest problem is replacing 5ft light fitting to ceilings guaranteed the old screws are stripped never match up and you end up with a mix of plaster board studs and sometimes metal joists.

Great tip!! If people did this regularly like you, I bet there would be a lot fewer situations for people to fix.

But would the wood glue not leave a very smooth surface once it is dried on the "painted hole". And it would be hard for the next layer to bond to that smooth surface? PVA is essentially plastic, isn`t it?

@@el_micha It’s not a problem. If you overdo it and PVA glue gets on the wall you can wipe it off with a damp cloth. But you can also paint over it; in fact I have used watered down interior grade PVA to prime the surface of a newly plastered wall after it’s dried, before applying emulsion paint. Interior grade remains slightly water soluble and it will bond to itself. There is an exterior grade PVA, which is definitely waterproof and I would be more careful with that. But my tip was to paint the hole and the fixing put in.

A box of Fix-it--all is really cheap and the powder can be stored forever.

Thank you so much for the love and support 🙏🏽!

Exactly! Total agree1

It's "too big" not "to big"

Can you send me a link to what butterfly ones you prefer/recommend? I have a job today in a customers home with shelving. Hope you can send it soon! Thanks much !!

Metal butterfly anchor with washer would do the job instead of using any kind of compound based fixes. And it would take 5 minutes to set up. Unless they cant be used for whatever reason.

The toggle bolt is a permanent fix.

A method known as "doing it properly". I've no idea why he thought this was a good plan. Basic misunderstanding of how the anchors work maybe?

@Jack Scorpion - I don’t think you’ve thought that through. Consider the mechanics involved in redrilling a patched hole only millimetres larger that the drill bit. None of the filling compounds would have the physical properties necessary.

@erikjonromnes - possibly so however out of all the options tested the first was really the only option with even some of the basic characteristics required to be successful. I thought it amusing that he would even consider bothering to test most of them!!

@@Anthonykelly-eq4pf instead of strawmen, strawrepairproducts.

Those products aren't drillable . That would not work .

I’m glad I could be of help! And I hope you are able to fix it! Thank you for the support ! 🙏🏽😊

It looks like a plaster bandage you can get from hobby stores. You could make your own with it, or use drywall compound and gauze, or cotton wool.

Hi mate do you know of any handyman forums I could join as a handyman myself

@@hexboxx735 no idea

Thank you so much for the amazing feedback! I really appreciate it and it means a lot as a content creator 🙏🏽😊😭

@@FixThisHouse You earned the praise with your Great and Informative Videos.

Thank you for sharing your method!

I’m glad I could be of help! Thank so much for the love and support! 🙏🏽😊

cement behind the drywall... Just grab a masonry drill bit and a regular rawl plug and a longer screw, that would be very secure. Failing that you could fill up the hole with drywall adhesive, let it set and that would give you a very strong substance to put your plugs into, make your plasterboard more secure, as well as seal up the hole.

Hi. QQ. Did you apply the wood filler the same way he did in the video or did you apply the filler first, insert the anchor...let it dry..and then the screw?

That makes sense that that's why the wet n fix worked so well

I've wrapped the anchor in a few layers of toilet paper and then wet it with either wood glue or water and corn starch. But I was in a hurry to do a quick cosmetic repair rather than do it the right way when I used those methods.

By hot glue do you mean regular glue gun?

U managed to insert God into the the daily conversation

@@cemasti4524 I am just wishing him or praying for him, this video has me saved lots of money and hassle

@@cemasti4524 You managed to find and complain about God out of all 1,727 comments. God bless.

The answer is of course, never, because the failure suggests that drywall plugs aren't an adequate solution to my mind. But alas that is a more professional mindset. If I wasn't going to do it properly, i'd just put a big plywood plate over the hole and screw into that, well bonded or screwed to the studs. If I'm doing it properly, i'm taking the plasterboard out and putting in a plywood back and putting a fresh piece of plasterboard on and getting it reskimmed, painted, and then going straight in with a regular screw.

@@carbon1255 what if you just wanna hang some $5 paintings

I’m glad I could be of help! Best of luck on your renovations 👍🏽😊🙏🏽

Do not follow his instructions to the letter, this is by far the worst method you can use, in a case where the hole is too big for your old anchor, take a spring toggle bolt anchors, your installation will be more solid, less waste of time and money.

@@foxgood How is by far the worst method? Where's your video demonstrating this?

Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊

Nice! Thank you for sharing! 👍🏽🙏🏽😊

tapes or glues will often do a better job generally for anything load bearing than drywall plugs - they are designed for light sheer loads like a small picture frame at best. A shelf could do with a decent bit of plywood behind it, or failing that spreading the load across the drywall with some kind of bonding agent - or a hell of a lot more screws than it failed with. Surely though with the floating shelves, they are on a long plate- could you not just find the stud and screw into that? floating shelves put incredible pressure on your walls- that is the best way for them, you can drill some screw holes in the mounting plate usually with no issues. I'm pretty sure ive never seen a floating shelf instruction manual recommend you mount it with drywall plugs to be honest.

Not always possible because a wider anchor quite often also needs a bigger screw. The thing yuo'll connect to the wall must be ready for that bigger scres. (I use in this case mostly a (big) hole filler...but that's in a brick wall. And that holds perfectly. (Not sure if that's for sale all over the world).

Exactly wile your in the store just buy the fatter fixing ffs

The only thing to hold weights over 10 pounds is drill into stud or use butterfly anchor that flips out and grips the back.

Well of course that would be the proper way to do it but this guy doesn't make money if he shows you a solution that easy or that appropriate

@@reiniernn9071 sure it’s possible. It’s called a Molly. No bigger hole or bolt than this (Mollys use bolts not screws)

Thank you for your awesome feedback! 🙏🏽😊

I’m glad I could be of help Lee! Thank you for the love and support! 👍🏽😊

Thank you so much for the love and support! 🙏🏽😊

Thank you so much Loren! 🙏🏽😊

@@FixThisHouse no thank you. I think I might repair a lot of stuff thanks to you. I'll spread the work my friend, thank you 😊

I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊

I’m so glad I could be of help ! Thank so much for your support! Wish you the best! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽

Thank you for watching! I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊

yeah...I don't think we need to do any of that. Wet & fix is the way to go it seems no reason to use anything else other than hot mudd

I never try to reuse a blown out hole. I fill it in and make a new one. Gyprock is a pathetic material. I really hate it, nothing but trouble. Good comment!

@@martinvanburen4578 Yes, your'e definitely correct on that one. Wet & Fix is obviously the way to go.

Thank you so much for the love and support! 🙏🏽😊

which one works

​@@ProPrince, Generally, your butterfly anchor, although it requires a bigger hole. S dcrew-in anchor is good in standard applications, where not a huge amount of force is hoping to be placed on the anchor. A stud is always a great place to secure ftom.

Where do you get the shorter versions from?

@@qasion both Home Depot and Lowe's have them

Which is great if your the builder but what about the buyer.

@@LilacKatz12 I was referring to the buyer / homeowner

Until you need to unscrew something and replace the screw and discover your toggle fell. Go with Mollies instead from the beginning. Always.

it isn't sometimes, its essentially always. as pressure applies to the fixing the front acts as a pivot and the back gets destroyed.

I this case I have had luck with making the hole a bit bigger and feeding a strip of wood, typically about 1/2 in square by 4 inches long. Pre-drill a hole in the middle and feed it in with a piece of thin wire or string in the hole. Pull it tight and put a screw in the hole. Spackle and paint as needed.

Thank you so much! Means a lot for your love and support! 🙏🏽😊

You're supposed to join heavy objects, like cabinets, to studs, not drywall. As for shower rails, I'm not aware of anyone who has drywall in their shower! Wetwall, maybe (yes, Virginia, there IS a wetwall!), but, you wouldn't want to attach a safety rail to that either. Use studs (if you need to and are capable, then add your own studs, as I did for a walk-up porch safety rail (elderly and handicapped)), or, assuming you have tile in your bath/shower, get a heavy-duty, suction cup, safety rail. The suction cup rail that I attached in my client's shower is still holding after 3 years! Keep in mind that a suction cup safety rails are not meant to hold full, sustained, weight, for more than a few seconds (having written that, I tested my client's with my total body weight suspended off the ground, and it held for 15 seconds before my grip started hurting!). Cutting out and replacing damaged drywall is no better than the test in the video, because, the drywall joints can fail under the pressure. As for your "unfolding back board" notion, that's what mollys are for, although you'd have to drill a bigger hole. Keep in mind that hollow wall anchors aren't meant to hold tremendous weights; the more weight you have, the bigger and/or more anchors you'd need.

@@skaizun Kitchen cabinets are fine on drywalls with the proper number of adequate anchors. It's not like you have a choice anyway, there are not always studs where you need them, you usually don't know where they are located when you move into a new apartment, and even if you manage to get one side anchored onto a stud, the other side has very little odds to also be on another stud. When building a house, kitchens should probably be fitted with reinforced dry walls on the side(s) where you would hang cabinets. Same for the TV wall in the living room. As for the security rail, it seems quite common in renovated buildings here in France to use dry water repellent drywall for showers in private housing or hotels, as well as in some industrial wet/damp rooms. The main manufacturer here (Placo, from Saint-Gobain group) offers several types. I also put towel hanging rails outside of the tiled area, and while they are not meant to be security rails, it's nice to know they are firmly anchored in place should the need arise. As for cutting our drywalls when the hole if bigger than a Molly anchor, a small cut would be rather fragile indeed.. A bigger cut, from the middle of one stud to the other would be just like putting 2 regular drywall boards together. It also gives access inside where you can put 2 small horizontal studs behind both top and bottom sides to support the big board and the smaller added piece. But that's only if you can finish the piece in the same way the rest of the board is painted or wall-papered, if it's not hidden from view. Anyway, I haven't seen the need yet, it was just me reacting to the products in the video that didn't seem adequate or safe for the job, and trying to figure out how I might broach the matter (and possibly make an even bigger mess!) Sometimes ready-made repair kits are very useful and time-savers, but these looked more like the quick and dirty kind. Also, every decent man or woman that I know has a spare piece of dry wall in the garage, so it saves a trip to the store to buy yet another expensive gadgetry. 😄