Flipsky didn't get the naming scheme Vedder and I chose for the 75/300 and 100/250 VESC motor controllers. The first letters are the component's voltage rating, second the Amps you can push. The 75/300 is a phase shunt design with 75V Mosfets, the 100/250 is a low side shunt design with 100V mosfets. The latest device from Flipsky is marketed as 75/300 although it has nothing in common with the 75/300 design! These Flipsky units are all low-side shunt designs! Marketing wise they obviously want customers searching for the VESC 75/300 to find their controllers and assume it is an equal alternative (which it obviously is not). The downside of that unfair marketing strategy: People already loaded the VESC 75/300FW onto the Flipsky ESC and destroyed their controllers. Consequently, Vedder and I decided not to host the Flipsky FW in VESC-Tool due to naming issues and confusion. We don't want our customers to accidentally load the Flipsky FW onto the original VESC controllers. They have to get more creative in naming and coming up with their own branding first. The lack of high-frequency caps is also quite astonishing as those are a pretty vital part to suppress the noise. I guess that there is no good way to place them in a 2 layer PCB power stage and they also cost some bucks.

Always good stuff

Good reasons mentioned by the other commenters about the naming. Marketing is another reason. Flipsky names it like this to make it leech of the others marketing. People tend to search up things by their model numbering.

Oh btw it seems like they listened to your videos as on the MKSESC 75200 Alu PCB's i got there's no gap between the battery wires and the busbar, it is continuously filled

Hello, thank you very much for your very detailed and interesting video. Do you have the references of the connectors present on the PCB with the STM32? I've lost a cable and I can't find the reference of these connectors to make a new one. Thanks in advance

There is a Makerbase Version of this being sold on ali now, got it today It is the exact same board but with MKSESC 75200 v2 markings all over it, its 150$ instead of 222$ It also lists itself as "V2". It does indeed seem like an improved version in a few ways.. The solder is flowing from battery + and - onto the copper bus bars. Also the bus bars are now one solid piece each instead of 3 parts each Capacitors are different too, they look the same but list the following: "ChengX 100v 470uf 2152PET GR105°C" Besides that I did not find any difference with the PCB's

Hi brother! Ok about the New controllers.. Make some videos with the most knowing and put on our scooters as Kelly 7230 or sabvoton 72150 or MY controllers YYK (I know they are old) I don't know the benefits or where are in pain these controllers... And you are the MOST trustfull guy to believe 110% your opinion...!!!😘

good video my friend, thanks... Your video helped me orient myself before making the purchase... what do you think of the 75300 water-cooled, is water-cooling necessary?

My only worry about this fs75200 is the wire gauge seems pretty small for 200 A

I currently own the 75100v2 and thinking upgrading to the 75200 to help increase my torque since this board uses calculated wattage delivered by using the duty cycle im running 20s7p 21.6ah and duty cycle is low at start so torque is reduced. have current set at 100a and battery current set to 70. so if i understand right with the 75200v2 controller i should be able to set current to 200 and battery to 70 and that percentage of amps sent should be higher then my 75100 equating to more torque.

will it work for a tp 128 motor

Have you seen the Maker X versions of VESC? They seem to a bit higher quality.

Thank you for the detailed explanation and review. I recently bought a flipsky 75200 pro v2.0 twice within a week as the first one got shorted and the second one I never got it worked and I damaged the 8 pin socket and tried to soldered and caused more damage to that area. Now I am broke and stuck with two flipskys. These are my very first controllers as I just bought my very first ebike two weeks ago attempting to switch a better controller than the stock one. Unfortunately, I failed and disappointed. Now, I could not buy another one as I am broke. I would still want to fix it but I do not have the soldering skill especially for tiny pinouts. However, If I could get a hang on the top board replacement I think I can swapped out the damage board and probably fix the (second) controller that I believe was not shorted. Would you kindly provide some source to get the replacement board or sell me one if you have some extra or advise how to have it fix easily? I would be very appreciate as it would be my lifesaver for my ebiking journey.😢

Why mss as he the case top out of billet aluminum? So much machine work for what? Why not plastic injection that part out of something decent.. save cost on something that doesn’t need to be machined aluminum. Put the savings into better mosfets or something.

I doubt 200 amps is going to happen without blowing it, but yes can handle 82v?

Hello, Flipsky 75100 has the erpm setting. What if you don't know the exact erpm of the engine? And is it necessary to provide the exact ERPM value?

Hey, i've had this for about 200km on my electric scooter. It worked great then it simply died on me while waiting for a green light. Doesnt power on an makes a small buzzing sound when connected to the battery. Any clues as to what happened?

Looks good but i wouldnt buy it, its a disaster waiting to happen

I can buy this for 80 bucks in china😂