Hi guys! This is not my channel, so if you're directing questions towards me, I don't receive those notifications. Questions you post here are monitored by those at Flow Hive. :) Thank you for your kind words and I'm glad you enjoyed this presentation of questions and answers. Wishing you all the best in beekeeping!

Great show Fred thank you very much. Take care mate 😁👍

Great Q&A Fred. That little hive you used in demonstration is wicked, Thanks

Excellent video. Thank you, Fred! 🍯

Thank you for your excellent videos, beautifully photographed and thoughtfully scripted. When the subject touches on my experience, I am in full agreement. Well done.

Mr Dunn! I am pleased to see you presenting here. I would like to commend you particularly on your commentary at 11:00 that was an issue that needed to be addressed. I find your approach to beekeeping and your ability to share what you know, to be top drawer. At first I didn't realize I was watching another channel! Continue your good work!

I've had good luck using cinnamon to repel ants. Just sprinkle it generously around the hive or around the top edge of your feeder or inner cover. I buy the cheap stuff at the dollar store and keep it in my tool box with all my other bee stuff.

hello mr dunn!!! is this also your channel? i thought i was watching your faq excellent as always!!! awesome!!!

Same feeling with the paper wasps in Florida. I'll take out a wasp next right next to the door, but I'll leave them about everywhere else. If you don't want to kill them, just knock off the start of their nest. They probably won't get it the first or second time, but eventually they will go somewhere else. We also have crown of thorn plants all over, and they seem to be the major pollinators of them. If you have to kill them, yellow jackets, aggressive etc, just use your sprayer with soap water, a few tablespoons of soap per gallon. Works faster than any spray.

Fred, thanks for your contributions to this community and being available to help answer questions in such a useful format. Your video Q&A's are priceless wealths of knowledge for people like me who were on the fence for years and finally decided to pull the trigger and do it. My first order from BB was placed yesterday. I have two questions. When setting up a new hive can an OA vaporization of the new frames in the brood chamber be accomplished as a preventative or prophylactic treatment for mites of the new BB Better Comb and box prior to the introduction of the bees? Secondly, is there a "standard" measurement or gap, that is the most productive and favorable to the bees, measured from the bottom of the frames in the brood chamber to the top of the bottom board of the hive? (I plan on running a modified Langstroth extra deep, spanning a deep and a medium joined together so I'm trying to calculate the length of the end bars of the frames. Thanks for any guidance and your time. PS. I used to fish French Creek and spent a lot of time swatting mosquitoes and reeling in walleye and bass...beautiful country (except for Meadville). ; )

Hi Frederick, great show as usual. I have been hearing more and more about 8 frame hives. Are they really that much better than 10 frame hives? Do 8 frame hives overwinter better? All of my hive bodies are 10 frame sized. Is there an advantage or a disadvantage to using something like polystyrene as endcaps inside the hive to reduce the dimensions to an 8 frame space? Thanks

Might be time for the new "Flow Hive " channel.

Fred for two seasons now 2022 will be my 3rd. Two hives and both hives queen lays in 2nd deep and bottom deep is 80% A banded with some nectar hair of their hardly any brood at all. Any ideas? Thank you in advance. Dan B

Mr. Dunn, I have been watching your videos quite a bit while trapped at home and have a question about one of your hive stand constructions. It looks like you used green steel fence posts as legs on at least one of your hive stands. I thought that was an interesting idea so I popped out and bought some of those steel fence posts with the thought of building another hive stand, but as I looked at the posts, I wondered how secure of an attachment I could get with the posts since they have the one hole for a screw or bolt or whatever about every foot along the length of it. My question is would you build another stand in this way or would you use a more traditional wooden legs approach in the future?

Question I'm looking to buy bees wax for my foundations the seller said it came off old foundations and has some smoke smell can I still use it for my foundations

I don't think that water is a good choice for moats under the beehive. Mineral oil, or vegetable oil doesn't evaporate as quickly and works much better in preventing ant access to the hive. There are even models available on line to enable you to make your own ant moats on a 3d printer.

Would you like to explore the ZEST hive? There is a web page and a book.

My bees are not moving up to the flow chambers at all they are only using the bottom super! What do I do and why are they not using the flow chambers 😊

Fred, what is your opinion on Caucasian Bees? I hear that they are less prone to swarming. Craig From Virginia

Firts i love bees and honey

DE works well to keep the ants out ... around the base of the legs .... not a place where the bees can get into

I have seen your website where everything is being priced higher, and the common man cannot buy even if he wants to, so you try to reduce the price of flow hive 2, giving the common man a chance to buy.