Lot better than learning the hard way from breathing flux core

Of course. Both FCAW-SS demonstrators from Lincoln Electric I knew, died from throat cancer. However, if you weld with this wires, you can use the clear air system connected with welding helmet or to use appropriate filter mask below the welding helmet, as we in Europe are doing. PPE first! Safety first!

​@vojislavcar6157 safety is third at best. Otherwise nothing ever gets done ;).

Haha. Man who run infront of car gets tired, man who run behind car get exhausted.

😏

Badoom-tish!! 💥

wow this is prety smart but they say more the learn they more they burn

to smart of car

Thanks for putting in effort to better your skills 😀

Haha yeah, that brush has been around for a long time and has been improperly used a lot. I always forget what I wrote on it 😅. I think most people are afraid to put themselves in a position to fail, but that’s a great way to learn. I could have done prep work, and tig welded it with a perfect stack of dimes, but nobody would have learned anything. Welding zinc coated exhaust pipe with minimal prep, with flux core wire, and in position is a recipe for poor welds. Anyone can weld with with short arc mig on a bench. I wanted to reflect a more realistic approach to the average person and how to get better results. It always comes down to controlling the variables as much as possible. I will probably revisit doing butt joints and show some tweaking/technique to get them dialed in. The great thing about being knowledgeable about troubleshooting welds, is you can dial them in pretty quick.

Thank you sir this is the first time that I've come across your videos and I am definitely subscribing

Thanks for the kind words. I am glad it helped you. I will be dabbing back in flux core wire soon so if are struggling with anything let me know, I will do a video to help 😀

No problem, it’s all about sharing knowledge and seeing people learn new skills 😀

I remember car exhaust shops doing that exact thing. I can weld with oxy fuel, but I did it so infrequently I never got that good at it. The great thing about it is the process is very slow, aka it actually has a lot of control on thin material. It definitely isn't easy, especially compared to wire welding lol.

Glad it helped you. Feel free to make a request for a video if there is something you want to see :)

I think many people underestimate how many things welding requires a person to balance at one time, along with the time it takes to be decent. The great news is it’s within anyone’s ability to get good, it just takes determination and a whole lot of failures. It’s hard to learn, but once the basics are mastered it becomes fairly easy. It opens up a ton of doors for anyone who possesses the skill 😀

Thanks 😀. I am sure it has helped people gain some confidence to tackle things themselves 😀

If you haven’t watched it yet my video about heat to metal ratio here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qNOcaLaLp9_DlmQ.html will help you dial things in even better. Flux core wire can be tricky because you have multiple settings to adjust and it’s not immediately obvious as to how the wire feed and voltage relate. That video will give you a lot of confidence and ideas to work with to make better welds on varying thicknesses. 😀

Glad I could make you laugh 😅. I need to make more jokes in my videos, lately I have been a bit too boring😅. I kind of figured if I posted content that is completely unfiltered I would probably get blacklisted 😅.

@@makingmistakeswithgreg agreed,.. world is sad.. of someone could make people laugh, they should.. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Expect a bit of frustration during the learning process but with time and practice that will definitely go away. You can do it 😀

No problem, glad it helped out 😀

Thanks for the kind comment 😀. I am here to help people gain skills to build cool stuff. 😀

No problem, glad it helped you out 😀

Interesting. I have done stainless mig and obviously tig, but I haven’t done any stainless flux core that I can remember. I know it exists, and I have heard it works well. I know stainless stick works really well, so I am sure the flux core does too.

No problem 👍

Awesome, glad it helped 😀. I mostly tig weld thin material but tig is a terrible process for most exhaust lol. Flux core works good but butt joints are pretty tough still. A simple overlapping joint makes it 100% easier to weld with better looking beads. Not to mention it allows the pipe to be easily tack welded in place (due to how much movement you have) for perfect fit after welding. Butt joints suck because they move a ton during welding due to any gap. I am just thankful for flux core and MiG, give stick welding exhaust a shot some time 😂.

@@makingmistakeswithgreg ha! I’ll let you make another one of these videos with a stick welder.

Yeah butt welds on exhaust are so much tougher than a slip fit. I have the luxury of tig can can easily weld a bit weld with it on any thickness. When you’re dealing with MiG and flux core is way harder on thin wall. Good exhaust welds have more to do with the setup before welding than skill in many cases.

Sounds like you have a fun project lol. If you have to run a bunch of tacs obviously cutting/breaking the wire off every time becomes a chore. The best option you have is to make the tacks one after another while the wire is still hot. Flux core wire starts rough with a ball on the end and it can leave porosity issues. Gas mig doesn’t have as bad of issues since it relies on the shielding from the gas not the flux. I am not a auto body guy (I despise auto body welding) but they use tricks that could help you. Since you have access to the back side of it, you could use a copper auto body spoon (or chunk of copper you have laying around) and put it on the back side of the area to be welded. By doing that if you blow a hole the wire will push against the copper and continue to deposit metal. The metal won’t stick to the copper which allows you to get holes stitched up easier and faster. Obviously this won’t help you on exhaust or something like square tube (where the inside isn’t accessible).

Thin sheet metal can be a challenge with flux core. Do everything you can to help yourself out: use .030 wire and practice a bunch on thinner material. If you find yourself blowing holes after a second or two try to move a bit faster. The key is moving smooth and consistent. Even if the beads aren’t the prettiest it’s important to have some fusion, so you don’t want to run so cold things barely melt. You will get it done I am sure 👍

@@makingmistakeswithgreg From what I'm seeing, I'll be doing a ton of individual tacks and moving all over one tack at a time to prevent warping. I've been practicing with a sheet of 18ga and it's going well.

Thanks for the kind words. Things have been going well and I crossed the 100,000 hours of videos watched point. To me that’s amazing because I know within all that time people have watched my content I have helped atleast a few people out. That makes it worth it to me 😀.

Thanks for the kind words. Things have been going well and I crossed the 100,000 hours of videos watched point. To me that’s amazing because I know within all that time people have watched my content I have helped atleast a few people out. That makes it worth it to me 😀.

Glad to hear it helped you out. If you focus on making consistent 1-2in welds you will be able to handle it no problem. Practice makes perfect 😀

@@makingmistakeswithgreg Well Sir giving you a follow up......my skills have improved nicely so i got my exhaust done and have takin on a couple of outside jobs that came out pretty darn good thanx to your coaching...Thanx again Greg....Your student Super Dragon.

No problem 😀

Haha reading that sounds exactly like every flux core job on exhaust I get stuck doing. Thin material, treated with zinc, sometimes rusted out, and always in a position where you can’t see anything. The only way to make jobs like that decent is to use a MiG gun with a flexible swan neck, and of course a lift lol. Totally different animal, just like body work. The worst welders make the best auto body men, because you can’t care about what your welds look like 😅

@Making mistakes with Greg yea I see bird sh*t on that stuff and it was annoying lol. Almost ground it out to retry

Haha I got a good laugh out of that. I bet someone does make a cig lighter welder 😅.

That sounds about right. Butt welds on exhaust are extremely difficult. At the end of the day for most exhaust if it’s fused together decent and doesn’t leak, it’s good enough.

Definitely practice on some scrap to dial it in. Doing short welds is generally less advisable than longer ones, but on exhaust it’s ok. Since you have thin material, (and the welds mostly just needs form a seal) doing 1in long welds will work. Just make sure to run hot enough to get things fused.

The millermatic 130 will weld exhaust no problem. The key thing is to run some beads on a normal single piece of pipe. When you can run a pretty solid bead (with no blow throughs) you’re ready to try to lap weld pipe. The lap weld/collar welds just like a bead on pipe, it’s just more forgiving when it comes to blowing holes. You have the option of running hardwire (not flux core) and gas which if the machine will run .023-.025 wire (with the right drive rollers) that would work well too. Last thing (and super important) I will mention, if you’re going to weld flux core make sure you’re machine is set for it. It runs on DCEN (mig gun is hooked to the negative ouput) and make sure to use flux core rollers. Inside the many machines is a wire or buss bar that needs to be switched to get the proper polarity. Flux core rollers have knurling, if you use hardwire rollers they may not grasp the wire properly. Other than that give it a shot and if you run into troubles email me at the link on KZfaq. You can do it 👍

@@makingmistakeswithgreg I've got the correct rollers for flux. My question is would it be worth getting what I need to run gas though my machine it has all the

I've got all the connections to run gas the guy I bought the machine kept all that for another welder but gave me a great deal on this machine 300 so I snapped it up. He let me try some of his other welders it was a stick he said n that was an experience. I welded some heavy plate with that. Not pretty but he said I got good puddle n it was welded fine. Anyway Ive never tried the solid wire with gas but would get what I needed to get setup n try that. How much do you think it would cost to get set up. 300- 400 maybe?. Thanks for your time.

If I were you spend the money on practice steel and flux core wire. With that said, Running gas shielded hardwire mig will produce cleaner welds with no issues with slag inclusions, less spatter as well. You would need a gas bottle (either 75/25 argon/co2 or 100% co2), regulator, and hose to hook it up to the machine. A local welding store will supply the bottle, price is based on size. A 125 is probably around 250-350 depending on location. You can buy a used one from marketplace but make sure it’s in test date and not a leased bottle. The main benefit you have with flux core wire over gas shielded hardwire is penetration. Your 130 amp welder will produce very good penetration on 1/4in steel without issue. Gas shielded mig will not at 130 amps. Flux core will also handle welding outside and on sub part material far better. Flux core is also way easier to weld vertical up than mig, which is really handy on welding stuff you can’t move (like a trailer). I say get good at flux core first then switch to gas shielded mig 👍

@@makingmistakeswithgreg that's what I'll do as far as the last paragraph because I've been using flux core for about 1-1/2 yr and I'm finally getting to the point that I'm not intimidated to weld most things. What helped me the most was to get a quality helmet I went from not even welding on the PC of metal I was supposed to be on lol to being able to see the puddle with enough clarity that I could almost read the side of the welder. A man asked me about the puddle when he was giving me advice and it was him that directed me to get a new helmet it was like night n day. The welder I have does weld 1/4 steel with no problem with really good penetration and that's not taxing the machine as far as I can tell. Thanks for the advice and getting back to me as well. I'm fairly new to the you tube scene. I fought getting a new phone for years I guess just stuck on one way I'm 55 now and couldn't do without my phone now. I'm learning more everyday about slot of different things. In high school I always wanted a hot rod n got a couple of cars that were ok but not like some at school that you just stand there n wish you could just drive it much less own it. Lol I'm in the middle of a project now building an old school small block Chevy I've messed around since auto mechanics in high school but never really built one that was mine. I'm doing a85 d20 truck with a 406 engine that's almost ready to start for first time. I've cut n made several rackets n welded them in with supervision of course lol but I'm getting better anyway thanks for your time he a a good day. It's gonna be a beast to drive!

Thanks for the kind words, glad it helped. The best advice I can give you is do some practice on the same thickness pipe in similar positions before you try to tackle the actual project. If you blow holes on the practice piece you will on the real piece so try to get it dialed in beforehand. Clean the areas to be welded the best you can. You must run enough heat to get everything to fuse but not too much that you blow holes right away. Use slip fits on the pipes as much as possible, butt welds will be very hard to weld. It’s generally undesirable in welding but exhaust is one of those things that if you have to run short welds or tacks to get it to work, so be it. The goal is to get fusion and have it sealed, which is possible with tack welds. You don’t want to tack weld parts together that require strength. The .030 wire will give you a lot of room to work because you can run low heat settings with it. Again focus on getting fusion and if you think it will blow a hole stop. Clean the area up with a wire wheel/brush, let it cool, and continue. Once you blow a hole it’s difficult to fix it. Hope that helps and good luck 👍

@@makingmistakeswithgreg thank you very much for the insight. I will certainly take your advice. I plan on buying some pieces just for practicing on. I also have a pipe spreader, so it should all be slip fit welds.

@@matthewrusch477 great idea on the pipe spreader, that will help. It’s so much easier on a slip fit, which means far less frustration.

@@matthewrusch477how did it go?

I never thought about a wet cotton cloth on a butt joint but I bet that would help. Anything to pull heat out makes it easier to weld. .030 Flux core wire puts more heat in thin pipe than .023 MiG wire so my go to for thin pipe (besides tig). Absent of that .030 flux core is doable, but any help to make it easier is worth trying.

Awesome, glad to hear 😀.

I agree with everything you said. Flux core is infinitely valuable, under appreciated, capable of a ton, and the titanium 125 is an excellent welder. I ended up buying another for a test video l am working on and no doubt I will keep it in the shop (I have given a few away in the past). It’s the most useful sub 150$ tool a person can buy I think. I really wish some company (like esab) made a micro mig/flux core welder that was rugged and had power factor correction to get higher output out of a 20a circuit.

You will burn holes when learning no doubt. However if you can run 3/4 long welds on just a piece of scrap exhaust you can do a good job on the exhaust welds. You need to run hot enough so that you’re almost burning through at 3/4 of an inch of weld. Stop at that 3/4 mark, wire bush the weld you put down, and start again on another 3/4in weld. If you move slow enough that a molten pool moves with you will have decent fusion. As you gain skill you will be able to make longer welds with the same settings by controlling your travel speed.

@@makingmistakeswithgreg Thanks guy. I'll find some exhaust scrap. I'll get this.

The machine will definitely draw over 20 amps, I believe I tested that but I can’t remember. The biggest thing to remember is that even though it’s possible for it to output enough power to require a lot of input power, it wasn’t really designed to do that a lot. I have welded a bunch of 1/4 inch material with one without failure, so I know they can do it for a while. However the longevity of a 200amp machine at those output levels is going to be by far better. For average welding a 20a circuit will handle it without issue, provided it’s a dedicated circuit.

It’s possible to use tig on exhaust, I use tig on stainless exhaust. For zinc treated flux core wire and gas shielded wire (MiG) are the the way to go because of the surface contaminates. With a little bit of practice mig can make extremely clean welds on thin wall tube. Experience matters a lot 😃.

With short welds you can generally restart on the slag and go again. With that said it’s best if the slag is still red hot, and it is probably smartest to brush it quick then restart. Flux core wire doesn’t have much issue with penetration on thin pipe. Doing that on something like 1/4inch steel on a tractor would be far less desirable.

@@makingmistakeswithgreg thank you, sir! You are a mentor to all of us, and I'm glad you're here. Have a great weekend!

oh yeah you just said that! Thanks!

Great comment 😀. Vertical down can be used on thinner material due to the lack of penetration that’s common, not being a issue. Generally speaking vertical down is not ideal, I have a video I am working on showing what can happen. However exhaust and thin stuff I wouldn’t worry in the least. 😀

Hope this helps: So there are a ton of ways to “skin the cat” when it comes to exhaust. On lap welds if you’re skilled there is no reason not to just run a single pass with actual welds (aka not spot weld it). A decent flux core .030 wire and a welder with some adjustments is capable of such things. On a butt joints continuous welds will be tough since it will want to blow through the pipe. In that case spot welds may need to do the job. The issue with welding over a weld is if the first pass isn’t the best it’s not the easiest thing to “weld over jt” and get a decent weld. Flux core wire tends to produce porosity in spot welds if the settings aren’t good, and welding over that doesn’t produce the best welds. It will take more heat to weld over a first pass weld on a lap joint and get it to flow out properly than the first lap weld did (more metal = more heat needed to melt things). You can get caught in a cycle where the second weld is worse than the first, so then a person does a 3rd weld and that has issues as well (aka leaks). To do solid exhaust welds you should focus on running hot enough to fuse everything together the first shot, and try to avoid putting down huge welds. Many people put down exhaust welds 2-3 times the size they need. It may seal the pipe but the issue is the inside of the pipe can get “suck back” where it basically has undercut near the edge of the weld on the inside of the pipe. At a later date the pipe will often crack there due to how thin the pipe is at that point and vibration/heat cycles. Exhaust has a lot in common with auto body, it’s very tough to make perfect welds because you’re dealing with poor material that’s thin. Not to mention access to weld it on a vehicle is often terrible. Sometimes you have to do the best you can, and it won’t be the prettiest. Settings wise you need to experiment a bit with your machine but I can tell you high wire feed and low voltage generally will produce porosity in welds with flux core. I do love flux core but it’s only real limitation is your settings are far more restricted for what works because of the dreaded porosity issue due to gas entrapment. Gas shielded Mig doesn’t have this issue, you have a much wider range of values you can run and still make welds (aka you can run a lot colder).

@@makingmistakeswithgreg what is the cheapest MIG welder that accepts GAS and allows FCAW too?

@@Bulletz4Breakfast13 so all Mig welders can generally weld with flux core. A flux core only welder can’t weld with gas shielded wire. If you are on a budget I would highly recommend going on Facebook marketplace and looking for a used 140 or 180 amp MiG welder. You can get them for less money than many new MiG welders. The cheaper you go generally the worse the performance with new. Amazon has ones for 300$ but in my experience they perform poorly and don’t output the power they claim. The little titanium 125 flux core welder is a great setup that will serve you for years. If you want to learn welding I would recommend that. As you get better and want to upgrade, you can still keep that welder around because it’s still very useful for all sorts of stuff. I regret giving the one I had away because the small gun it has could get in places my esab couldn’t because it’s too big.

The stick out length affects the actual amperage output (which amperage is variable). To some extent the stick out will play a roll with how likely it is to blow a hole. The downside is flux core wire produces porosity with the wrong stick out, so the window of what’s right (and what’s too long or too short) is pretty small. The best help for welding thin material like exhaust (that has tons of angle changes) is using a welder with really good low amperage capability. Using .030 flux core wire on a more expensive machine makes it much easier.

I have heard that works, haven’t tried it on anything but milscale 😀

Great question. The little spools come in assorted sizes. Normally they are 2lb but there are some that are 1lb. I tried hard to find a chart for flux core to relate lbs of wire to inch of weld or even length of wire, and I can’t seem to find anything. MiG wire I can without issue. So my best guess is 1lb would weld somewhere around 250-300 normal exhaust welds on 2-3inch random sized pipes. Keep in mind this is for thin wall low deposition (aka small) welds. If running it on thicker than exhaust material it will require bigger welds thus less inches of weld per pound. Hope that helps.

Thank you.

So flux core wire is set based on wire feed and voltage. Amperage is variable and whatever it more or less takes based on wire feed speed. The actual amperage is likely less than 65amps.

So the titanium 125 won’t have any issue welding a hanger to a frame. Most f150 frames are under 3/16th thick (going back to the 70s) and the hanger itself is typically 3/8th in diameter. Despite the hanger being thick it’s round and will heat soak fast (basically the weld will penetrate despite it being “thick”). Settings wise you would need to run it at the high end of settings, so whatever it says for 3/16th steel or just above. You won’t blow a hole in the hanger so just do a slight weave back and forth from the hanger to the frame. Keep in mind you must run hot, and have a solid molten puddle that you’re carrying along with you. Clean the weld with a wire wheel/brush between passes too. Also, the titanium 125 is capable of a lot more than just welding the exhaust on that truck 😀. Although it’s great for that task because of how small the machine is and more importantly how small the gun is. I did a couple exhaust jobs with the MiG machine I have now and it was terrible trying to get the gun into places, that titanium 125s gun is so tiny it makes it easy. With all that said make sure to practice. Once you get a feel for it you’ll be able to do a ton of stuff with that machine. It’s also far easier to weld uphill with flux core than gas shielded Mig, so you’ll probably have more luck with the exhaust with it. Good luck 👍 and if you run into any issues let me know and I can give you some advice.

When repairing my Subaru Baja muffler (flange rusted nearly completely and both hangers rusted completely through, but the muffler body and pipe still in great shape) I used my Lincoln 90i MIG with 0.030" flux core wire to do both the flange and the hangers. Worked great, not even turned all the way up. A 125 should be enough machine; my 90i was, at least for my Baja.

Ok this is what I would suggest: If the machine is sputtering like you describe my first thought is the voltage is too low. If the voltage is too low or the wire is too high the wire will tend to stub the puddle. To check this out find a piece of 1/8th flat material, set the machine for the exact settings for 1/8th material, and try to weld it. Move slowly and consistently with a drag angle. If it welds fine on this the welder is ok. If it doesn’t weld properly (and keeps cutting out) make sure you have the proper feed roller side for your diameter wire in the machine. Make sure that the spool tension is not too tight. Make sure that your contact tip is correct and that the wire feeds through properly by pulling the trigger without welding. If everything looks good and it still doesn’t weld right it may be a defective machine. From a standpoint of difficulty, the machine can easily weld exhaust however exhaust is a challenge because it’s thin and has a lot of angle changes. It’s possible you just need a bit more practice on flat plate before you tackle the exhaust. Generally speaking if you can run a bead on flat plate the same thickness as you can on exhaust you should be ok.

@@makingmistakeswithgreg thanks so much for your suggestions. I'll check these items.

I gave that machine away, so I don’t know what the settings are anymore. If I didn’t mention a starting point in the video you want to look at the settings on the chart in the machine for 1/16th or just under, and that will be in the ballpark. If you blow holes right away drop the settings to the next thinner metal settings according to the chart 😀👍

It could help to pull heat out. That is far more common on stainless steel and titanium than steel.

When welding a new flange to an old but otherwise perfectly working muffler with my Lincoln 90i MIG with flux core wire, 0.030", I used a Sears/Craftsman exhaust pipe expander as a heatsink. Wrapped it with aluminum flashing to keep the weld from sticking. The flange was 1/4" material. I set the voltage control around 5 and the feed rate low, around 4.5, and aimed the arc slightly into the flange. Once the outside was welded, I removed the heatsink and turned to the inside, welding through the pipe into the center of the flange. No leaks, and only blew through the pipe once on the outside pass.

Haha I hear a potato on the eyes will help, no guarantees lol

Then I would look like bud the spud lol

Honestly with flux core wire breaking it and cutting it will produce about the same results in my experience. I generally break flux core wire, with gas shielded MiG it’s much harder so that I cut.

Couple thoughts on that. In general butt welds don’t last, but it has more to do with the internal weld being of poor quality and a lack of reinforcement. Basically the weld bridges the outside face and the internal weld is rough, inconsistent (in height/width/penetration/etc). Often times there is internal undercut at the weld toes which really thins out the pipe. Add in heat cycles and high vibration, and it’s guaranteed failure. All it takes is a little rust and the pipe has a hole through it and cracks the whole way. Your idea of slipping a pipe over it and welding a slip fit will help and likely prevent it, no issue with that 👍. There are other options as well. Putting a small section of pipe internally and welding both pipes over it can help. Purging the inside with argon and welding it can help clean up the inside weld and make it far less likely to have poor fusion/rough areas that are prone to breaking. If the pipe itself isn’t rotting but the weld is, using 308 stainless flux core wire can help a ton. Since the weld can’t be easily aluminized at home for rust resistance, using 308 or 309 wire can give far more corrosion resistance. For exhaust it will likely hold up, it’s not something you would generally want to do on things requiring liability.

So a couple possible reasons. If you have a flux core welder that has A/C output (harbor freight Chicago electric or similar) you will have excessive spatter no matter what. This is because the wires are designed to run on DCEN (gun on negative). If you have a normal dc output welder you may have the polarity wrong, settings a bit off, or you may be using wire that’s old/not as good.

I put a disclaimer on most videos I use that particular grinder in that I don't run it with a guard. I do wear a full face mask while grinding. The battery powered grinder doesn't have near the power of a corded version and I don't feel unsafe using it in that manner. IT's up to everyone what they do with theirs. :)

I believe in this video I was using Us Forge wire from Menards (and online). Most of the flux core wire welds similar, however the hard or freight flux core wire seems to have more spatter. 👍

likely E71-T11GS

Flux core and stick can be welded with a push angle under certain circumstances, mostly being welding vertical up. Gravity will pull the molten pool downward along with the flux. The issue with pushing is flux can often flow In Front of your molten pool, and then it gets trapped as the molten pool solidifies (slag entrapment). Well uphill that's not a issue, and a drag angle uphill can often cause the molten pool to drip due to excessive heat.

What are they up to now, I am afraid to know lol.

It definitely is. I like to say it’s everything you don’t want on something that needs welding: excessively thin material, rust, small diameter pipe that requires a ton of angle changes, poor visibility, poor access, and high thermal cycles. Great welds and old exhaust don’t work together lol.

For learning to weld car exhaust it’s best to start on new material to practice skills. It’s available everywhere and is consistent to help build skills.

Flux core self shielded wire does not require gas shielding therefore there is no nozzle on the end. Dual shield flux core does require gas shielding to weld with. Virtually all “flux core wire” at the store is self shielded therefore it doesn’t require any shielding gas

It’s flux core gun, shielding gas is not used therefor you don’t need a nozzle that goes around the contact tip. The nozzle is only there to protect the threads on the gun on the welder in the video. Most mig welders have nozzles that are much bigger and cover the whole tip (for gas shielding) but typically you can get ones that leave the tip exposed specifically for flux core welding.

@@makingmistakeswithgreg Roger cheers for that 💪😎🍺🇳🇿

Straight (Gasless) flux core wire doesn’t use gas, it self shields. So no cylinder needed 😀

It’s the harbor freight titanium 125 in this video. The upcoming videos will be shot with the esab 210em/firepower fp200.

Yes flux core is a wire fed weld no gas required at harbor freight for 169.99

Flux core is generally pulling however on exhaust at points you have to go straight in or a slight push angle. In many cases you simply can’t pull a weld (like on top of a exhaust pipe that is close to the car underbody) due to restricted access. The main concern is pushing can lead to slag entrapment, and possible porosity. Vertical up (or anything that gravity pulls down on the weld) will be lower risk because the flux simply can’t get ahead of the molten metal due to gravity. Hope that clears things up. 😀

@@makingmistakeswithgreg Cheers for the explanation on why mate👍

Haha considering how I talk normally the brushes are tame 😅. I just keep the videos mostly clean so I don’t get a channel shadow block 😱.

Another Fawlty Towers fan.

@@KStewart-th4sk WHAT IS WIT NIT ?

Not sure what you’re implying. It’s a video aimed at showing the basics of welding car exhaust for people who have never done it. I am capable of welding exhaust to a much higher standard than is in the video, however again, I am showing a basic technique people can build off of. Car exhaust also is extremely difficult to weld due to access restrictions under the car, thin wall rusty pipe, and mismatched thickness. You aren’t going to get the best welds on it period.