Same here I subbed as well, amazing feeling

Do you have this cam in a car or a truck? I’m looking at getting this same cam, how does it sound at idle? Nice and rough?

What heads are you running? I’m looking to do my 84 ranger motor

Just remember the more cubes the tamer the cam sounds

You can put a 302 cam in a 351 and get that sound back

If the 302 you have is the “H.O.” variant they have the same firing order

The 351 firing order is more efficient and places less stress on your crankshaft. The 351 Windsor firing order was designed to distribute crankshaft and rod stress more proportionately between the cylinders. This resulted in better long term reliability and a smoother running engine.

S&S did the machine work on my 351 build.

Thank you. 👍🏻

Thank you. It ran very well. You can see it in my 53 in my other videos👍🏻

@@1953fords which cc heads are you running?

@@ramonrodriguez8161 I was running 58cc heads on that 351. Thanks for watching.

@@1953fords thank you for your response and man a barra engine keep up the great work.

I can listen to them run ALL day😁 Thanks for watching. 👍🏻

This was a 351 0.04 over valve relief dish pistons about 10:1 AFR 165 non egr heads air gap intake quick fuel 750 fox 1-3/4 long tubes “not in the video” you can see it in my 53 in my other videos. I built a bone stock junk yard 302 before with Trick Flow heads big mutha thumper cam Vic jr intake quick fuel 850 msd ignition C4 with 3000 convertor and in a 1980 notchback it went 12:05 @ 124mph off the trailer. Never got time to keep playing with it I sold it. People say these cams are all sound. I feel they work good. I’m sure there are better cams with less sound that work better. But I’m old school and love a nasty idle 😁

@@1953fords these cams do work just fine. People just have to know how to use them right, just like anything.

😁

I used a thicker piece of plate steel I cut like the mid plate. You can try just the mid plate but may be to flimsy Good luck

Is yours hydraulic roller now? If not what year block is it? There are a couple ways you can do it either way

Hi sorry for late response. As in the description. It’s the Comp Cams Big Mutha Thumpr hydraulic roller.

This engine was a 1984 non roller motor that I converted to hydraulic roller. I just got a 1990 351w. Also non roller. Easy to swap over

Hi this was a 1984 block .04 over dished pistons. AFR165 heads non EGR. And with the cam I had was enough clearance.

@@1953fords dished pistons? With that big cam it's ready for a supercharger.

This was right about 10:1

@@1953fords Do you by chance recall how you achieved 10:1? I'll either shave the heads and zero deck the block or enlarge the bore and change the cc of the piston or go another route not sure yet though.

They sell it both ways. The cam alone is around $300 when I purchased it.

To add this cam do I have to add the other stuff or can you just swap shafts

@@datgreybronco depends on your engine. This is a hydraulic roller cam. Needs the proper hydraulic roller lifters. The link “dog bones” the spider that holds them in place and the proper valve springs and proper length push rods

.552/.538 lift 107 lobe separation. 243/257 duration @ .050. Thanks for watching

Yes I had a spider and lifters from a 302 and I just centered it in the valley and marked the 2 holes. Drilled and tapped them. Don’t go to deep that is above the cam bearing. The dog bones I modified myself. I machined down the ends on a angle. Just like the retro kit ones. I made sure there was clearance when I was assembling it and it ran great.

Okay awesome, I have lunati oem style replacement lifters. I put them in the bore with the cam and just rotated the cam.. looks like the oil hole on the lifter pokes out of the bore. Is that an issue?

@@devinglover5780 do you mean the small weep hole on the top near the pushrod location?

There’s a small oil hole on the side near the oil band.. That’s the one in referring to

@@devinglover5780 ok and that comes up out of the lifter bore at full cam ramp?

This engine was about 10:1 Piston style, head CC, piston to deck clearance all play into compression

@@1953fords I thought you needed 9:1 compression for the big Mutha cam

@@jassontamayo7152 so in theory you can run any type of N/A cam with compression from 8:1-12:1. Compression will effect power and such. Different cams have different timing events. Some cams bleed off compression during over lap and such. But to have everything happy and work together for the best results. You need to run high enough compression that you can have proper fuel available. Higher compression needs higher octane fuel. Higher octane fuel burns slower and needs higher compression to be optimal. You can run this cam in 9:1 or what ever you want. You will have different power levels but will run just fine. Too low compression it will feel lazy. But once again. Everything needs to work in harmony together. Hope this helps👍🏼

Jegs Summit Racing etc etc….

I made a metal plate and bolted it to back of block similar to a bellhousing.

@@1953fords thank you

@@unsightedscarab thanks for watching. 👍🏼 Plate was made from 1/8 steel. I traced out the bellhousing edge to get the outline. Mounted between engine stand and block. Bolted starter and done.

@@1953fords did you have the flywheel attached?

@@unsightedscarab flexplate yes

I sold this engine 3 years ago….

Hi yes fords need a bellhousing to mount the starter. I made a metal plate to mount the starter from 1/8 inch steel.

Hi says what cam in the title. CompCams Big Mutha Thumpr hydraulic roller

@@1953fords I was listening to several different cams and was clicking on them before the video ended so it would keep pulling up this type of video so I got to be the one who asked the dumb question of the day. That’s what I get for paying attention like I do my wife

@@matthewjohnson2495 no worries my friend I’ve been asked what cam it is a few times 👍🏼

Thanks and yes to your other comment it’s a roller like in the description 👍🏻