Glad they helped. Admittedly these are “bad” videos for KZfaq, they really want you to keep it under 20 mins. But the reason why I did it this way is because so many videos go from “okay lists install this” to “and we’re done!” and don’t show the struggle along the way.

Depends how you want to do it. Personally I would just buy the Plug-n-Play kit for the 200.4, and use the factory wiring for the subwoofer (sans power, you'll have to run your own power regardless). BUT, to my knowledge there is no kit specifically for the factory subwoofer wiring, which means you'll have to be willing to cut into the factory wiring to hook it up OR create your own plug-n-play kit. Or you can use the same kit I used and just just disconnect the factory wiring.

1. It is _SUBSTANTIALLY_ harder to add an amplifier to the B&O audio system. The B&O audio system has a Digital Signal Processor in addition to the Audio Control Module. It can be done for sure, but it'll be difficult, and to my knowledge there is not a Plug-N-Play kit for it, so you'll be entirely on your own for wiring. 2. You can! Again... it'll be harder. But it's possible. I actually just posted part 1 on the subwoofer install for my Bronco. I am using the B&O enclosure, so if you want to get a sense for what you may have to do, go check it out. In part 2 (probably will finish that up next week) I'll be talking about how it can be done with the B&O package. It won't be a step-by-step because I don't have the B&O package, but I will talk about what you'll need to do to make it happen.

If you have heated/powered seats you'll have some wires to worry about, and the rear HVAC vents are also under the seats. But other than that, yes... it should definitely fit under the seat. I personally didn't do that since I have the wash-out interior and wanted to retain the ability to actually wash out that interior. But if don't then under the seat is a good spot.

I have the older style Plug-N-Play harnesses that "steals" power from the same power line that feeds the Audio Control Module. Not ideal... but the circuit is fused, and I am not one that pushes the volume on my music anyway. So the fire risk is extremely low. Connecting the amplifier directly to the battery is on my to-do list. I plan on installing a GMRS radio in the not-too-distant future and I'll wire the amplifier to the battery then. That way I only have to tear apart the trim panels once. 😉

@@RagnarKon thank you so much I find your videos outstanding and very informative. Keep up the great work! Big fan!

You are correct! I actually ran the auto setup a few times and wasn't getting good results-it sounded better without the auto EQ. I ended up having to do a handful of Forscan tweaks and setting changes on my phone (which was playing the pink noise) to get decent results. So rather than cram all of that into what is already a 30 minute video... I think I may split that out into a separate video.

@@RagnarKon That would be good to see. I'm about to this same install, thanls for posting. Did you end up using Forscan to go full power/range on the rear speakers? I'm actually doing a pod replacement with 6 1/2" speakers back there as well. I wasn't sure if the Forscan mod was needed after installing the amp.

​@Ragnar.Kon please do show what changes you did with forscan! I just received a 23 Badlands with the sub delete, and even tho I used the spreadsheet with your notes on the ACM changes I'm still very much confused! 😅 Thanks for all of the help!

@@mmatthews90 Done! Just published: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e991Y7d3u8DedmQ.html

​@Ragnar.Kon wanted to give you another update (and some advice on the auto EQ). After fixing all the issues that we discussed on your Forscan video, I noticed I was getting a hissing noise coming through the speakers, and like you I was preferring the sound with auto EQ off. I then realized the issue was due to running the test pink noise file off of my phone. Bluetooth is perfectly fine for playing music through, but when running a lab grade test file there is going to be compression and important information that is lost over Bluetooth (and which will completely screw up the auto EQ process). I loaded the pink noise onto a USB stick formatted to exfat32 and boom! The auto eq is MUCH better. I also recommend running the Auto EQ at the highest volume you think you'll ever use, as the Key is able to accurately compensate the EQ at that highest volume. I'm a diehard audiophile, and previously spent dozens of hours fine tuning my home theater system (which is why I was so particular to what the Key was doing). I can honestly say after your recommended forscan changes, setting the hi-pass filter on the Key to 60hz (revised from my previous 80hz setting), and playing the lab grade pink noise through a USB stick, that the sound in the Bronco is exponentially better than stock; and honestly, better than I ever could have imagined it sounding! 🥰

My harness pulls from the factory wiring but is no longer sold. All of the newer harnesses require you to pull from the battery. Part numbers are in the video description. For some reason the Plug-N-Play Kits owner changes his part numbers from time to time... I do my best to make sure the most recent part number is in the description but can't guarantee it is 100% accurate.

The Plug-n-Play harness is using the same power line as the ACM. It is much safer to feed the 200.4 its own power from the battery rather than "stealing" it from the ACM. It completely separates the two components from a power perspective and ensures one component doesn't impact the other if something goes wrong. The Hoel Wiring kit does require you to wire power from the battery-they are effectively doing it the "most correct" way. The Plug-N-Play kit does not by default, but you can buy a power adapter harness to allow you to pull power from the battery for those who would rather do that.

@@RagnarKon thanks for the quick detailed reply! Looking forward to upgrading my ‘23 Black Diamond. Base system is certainly lacking.

Yes, but the 2023 Broncos already have subwoofer wiring in place (refer to my subwoofer videos for more info). So you only need the Kicker Key 200.4 harness. (Kit #11 if I recall correctly.)

@@RagnarKon Thanks for the reply. Will do

Home Depot probably. None of my Milwaukee tools were bought as a set though... just slowly built up over time.

Yeah, the LC7i is a line-output converter that takes the speaker-level (aka: high-level) signal from the factory system and converts it to a line-level (aka: low-level) signal for the amplifier. Most modern amplifiers (including the Kicker Key 200.4 I used here) can accept either high-level or low-level signals, therefore making something like the LC7i unnecessary. But if for whatever reason you want more control over the signal or if you happen to have an amplifier that does not accept high-level... then yes, you are on the right track. You'll need need to take the factory outputs either by slicing into the cables or by using the T-harness, feed them into the LC7i, and then take the line-level outputs of the LC7i and feed those to your amplifier.

@@RagnarKon dude, you are really awesome. Sounds like the audio shop may be selling me a little overkill. I'll keep at it.

@@nmdelninno Yeah they may be, it depends what the end goal is ultimately. Most high-end car audio setups will use an line-output converter because it gives you a lot more control over the signal. But if you aren't looking to do a high-end setup and you are just looking for a solid upgrade from the factory setup, then you can usually go without.

@RagnarKon I may piece meal it with high-end eventual goal. If I could save on installation, that would really help. Thanks 😊

It is pre-wired for a sub/amp. Several of the Ford OEM amplifiers used on other vehicles are compatible with the Bronco. The most common choice seems to be the one previously used for the Ford Fusion. Used amps are readily available online for relatively cheap. The output signal for that amplifier wiring is also disabled in software, and it has to be turned on in Forscan. (I have a video for that.) You will also need a subwoofer speaker. The enclosure is sized for a 170mm subwoofer, and most 6.75-inch subwoofers also fit. If you want better results, several aftermarket amplifiers will also work, but you'll have to do some custom wiring/mounting to get it into the vehicle.

Nope. If you are that means either your gain is too high or you have a grounding issue.

Ok , i went a bit further , why not just use one 5 channel amp. Everyone does it differently

I have the original Plug-n-Play kit which "steals" power from the same power harness that feeds the factory ACM. For the newer Plug-n-Play kit you'll have to run power from the battery. From what I understand some customers were having issues with clipping when running the audio at larger volumes. I personally am not a loud-music sorta guy... but I also will probably modify my Plug-n-Play harness at some point to run power to the battery. It is just a much safer option.

It's from a company called TrailRax. I got mine from Bronco Nation: gear.thebronconation.com/collections/trailrax

It's out of stock everywhere right now. Kicker is experiencing supply chain issues that don't expect to be resolved until late 2023/early 2024.

It's in the description: Kit #19-1 plugnplaykits.com/