I've been trying to do this on and off for months, on my side and rear doors. It's a cargo van, so no interior panels. Been crawling back and pulling the cables for over a year. This was probably one of the most helpful videos. I appreciate it. I did take the black panel/ license plate piece off, made it a lot easier. If anyone in the future sees this and needs help, this is the video to watch.

How odd to take everything off EXCEPT the ACCESS panel to get ACCESS. Also, do you realize you don't have to disconnect the cables from the door latch, you can just slide the cable ends over the cable? This video turns a fairly straightforward project into an hour long challenge.

If you have to do this, do all four doors, 2 rear and 2 side at the same time. I didn’t and one would fail, fixit, then a month later another another fails , rinse repeat, rinse repeat. The door he does is the worst of the four. And I took the black panel on the inside below the speaker off and the outside black box comes out. So much more room to get in and out.

Thanks for the detailed walk-through. I just completed this job on my 99 E-350 in less time than it took to watch the video. Two tips. Take the license plate assembly out early in the process. And no need to drill out the rivet. That piece can be pried out of its bracket and clipped back in without dismounting the bracket. Also I didn’t try to crimp the new cable ends and it works great. I appreciate you te eking time to share your experience!

I couldn't open my rear van door from the inside or outsides, and your video helped me visualize what needed to be done. Took me a bit longer in the hot Texas heat, but my the door works as it should now. Thanks!

This helped give an idea of the process of getting the door open before diving in. Had to get the door open on one set up for refrigeration and it is all fiber glassed inside with custom door skins and fiberglass insulation in the doors / foamed windows, a little tedious getting the skin off with the door shut, but got it off enough to reach in the speaker hole and fidget around until I got it to unlatch. I found that the outer handle in the license plate frame, had a rusty bolt on the return spring, so the handle was stuck, and the spring couldn't release it, not allowing either handle to open it. I cleaned it up, greased it, and works again.

An update, just fixed this, you don’t have to drill the rivet, the “Actuator” is clipped into that “C” channel. Use flat head screw driver to peel out C channel to release pins in “Actuator “ from C channel. Then the whole assembly comes out.

Thank you ! I did not realize the cables were infact broken. I took off my license plate holder and it made everything smoother.

This guy made it hard and confusing. The correct way to do it is remove the plastic recessed box where the license plate is. This allows easy access. Remove Torx bolts holding the latch, the actuator is held in place by a U bracket, carefully pry one side away and the actuator will come loose, allowing the latch mechanism to drop down , to easily replace the cables. He drilled out the rivet on the door edge below the latch. This is not necessary and makes for extra work reattaching U bracket.

Thank you Sir for making this video. I completed the job and absolutely couldn’t not have done it without your help. Thanks so much!

I just bought a 2000 ford f150 with the 2 half doors that will not open. I guess this is what the issue with them is....good job bro. Shalom

I don't know where your from, but you sound like part of my family with your accent and phrasing. God bless ya for this great video as I had the same problem with my 2002 E150. You stepped me through like a champ. Thank ya bunches. This Ole western kentucky/southern Illinois girl.

Next time just remove the license plate holder withe the for bolts on the inside you will gain way more room. They are the 4 on the black panel on the inside of the door. But all in all great to know about those doorman retainers.. good video. Thank you!

So much easier to take off that big black plate. gives you way more room to work when that comes off along with the license plate trim

If Ford had just made those ferrules out of aluminum in the first place…..SMH.

THANK YOU!!! I needed to figure out how to open the door so THANKS!!

To remove the old rubber ends on my cables I used a pair of heavy pliers and just "squished" the rubber until it flaked and fell off.

Thank you happy to have subscribed

The problem is the mechanism is frozen and you cannot get the doors open how can you fix it. How do you fix it when you can't get the doors open because the mechanism is either rested or Frozen and the cables broke off trying to open it

seems that pulling that panel would have made it a little easier

12:10 - Don't knock out the rivet holding the actuator, It's actually a clip. Take a screwdriver or small pry bar to the inside left or right. Pry out and then slip the actuator out of the clip. It's a pretty heavy clip on my 2004 E350 but you can pop the actuator out.

It seems like the hardest part was getting to the cable ends in the actuator . Isn’t it the ends going to the latches where they usually break? Could you just get by doing the long ends?

At first, I thought it said "The Alcoholics of Oran" at @2:15 but rewound to @0:21 and saw "Apostolics". :)

speaker I should have known... thanks for the video

I have a 2009 Ford E350 XLT super duty and the REAR side door won't open. Can't get the top plastic door panel off either. Suggestions?

The door lock actuator can be removed after removing the license plate housing by using a flat screw driver to ply the actuator on both sides from the bracket. No drilling is necessary.

Mine keep falling into the locked position due to gravity. So pulling the cables does not work anymore 😢 any suggestions

HUGE HELP!! Thank you

In Which state are you doing this service?

My arms would be torn to ribbons. LOL

Don't have to drill the piece out... Should have taken the cover off on the bottom part tag cover.. Should have taken 1 hr at the most... Wow, you made this so much more difficult than need be!!!

Good info... but I threw up from sea sickness at the 9 minute mark.

The door looks just like my ‘94 E250. Way easier to access the latch assembly by taking off license plate panel.

I was wondering for 45 minutes when you were gonna have to remove that cover!

Depending on how old your van is - and whether it’s yours, here’s a way to get inside the rear doors: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gtidY7Km3KqwiYk.html They cut a hand hole through the panel behind the license plate.

Thanks for the great info

So painful to watch... not removing the access panel, and some of the bench seats come out with two levers also. Work harder, not smarter epitomized

Thank you!!!

finally takes off access panel, lol

It's ridiculous not to take that black plastic cover loose, give a person more space to work

wouldve been less of a hassle if you removed that big metal panel. and then put the screws back on without the metal panel. will hold it all in place without the metal panel being there and you wouldve had a lot of room.

Its a pain in the ass fixing them back doors yes either have to replace plastic ends or cables its a good video but i think he could of made it ezier if he would of talken the licenscen plate off 😮

what about the left side door

All you had to do was take off the panel that holds the license plate holder both cables right there.

I pull down on cable And door doesn't open, what 2 do? And u buy parts from nappa?

Hey Guys, Don't you think FORD MOTOR COMPANY could have used metal in the first place??? Lousey plastic.

Why not just take the 3 seats out first???

What if you pull the cable and nothing happens

Send out some instruction 4 a price!!!???

Thanks good, i am in alanta can someone help with all my doors are not functional? i will pay 250

Looks awkward, not an easy job, ha ha.

take off the panel!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This guy knows what he’s doing but it’s a horrible video.

😂😂😂 funny how the clown covered license plates