If you have the ability to remove box, that will make all three installs easy. Those boxes are light enough to where I think four people can lift it off without tailgate attached. Should be a fun job to do, enjoy!

Appreciate that! The quality I put into my work is the same as if it were mine.

Appreciate the comment! Techs that take pride in their craft, they're out there.

Very nice! Love to hear it.

I second your comment.🙂

That's definitely a job you want the bolts torqued.

Awesome! Love saving money. Did you remove the box?

@@raincitywrench117 Where are you located? I need one installed in a 2022 f350 dually.

@@jamesmorris8226 Snohomish WA

You are very welcome!

Thanks for watching & the reply!

Yea, I hate that too.

Wow! Appreciate the kind words. Glad you enjoyed.

Awesome! If money can be saved by doing yourself, I'm all over it.

$2-$3K labor? I have a 2023 F350 and my dealer wants $600 labor to install mine.

@@johnyoung4772 I don't know what type of systems you're talking about, but I duplicated the factory OEM by removing the bed just like this video and did an custom Air Ride with extras. Some of the other products bolt from the top. A whole different project. I got prices from two different Ford dealers and they were about $1,000 for the gooseneck prep. I'm near a big metropolitan area so prices are high here. The air system that I have in my truck is not one of the simple plug and play ones. I put in a constant duty cycle 200 PSI pump, to be able to pump my high pressure tires, and an auxiliary tank. I did some other custom stuff extra ports for tools. It's ran inside the truck with valves and gauges. I could only find two shops to give me a price on that anywhere near me and they both wanted $2,000 and said maybe more. Quite frankly I don't think they wanted to even do the project. 2-3k all Day. It took me in my buddy a long weekend and a few cases of beer, about 40 man hours.

Thanks for the comment! Installed a couple B&W companions, really nice units 👍

Awesome! Glad to hear

I hear ya. That goes for about any industry, some good techs/bad techs, good and bad doctors, contractors, etc. This industry only cares about profits. Flat rate techs are in a rush to "make time" so quality suffers. Worked on a comeback just yesterday at our dealer. Reverse lights would flash when turning on right turn signal plus stepping on brake. It just had some wiring work done to the back. The tech never checked his work. Not double checking your work on something important like lights? Really? That wouldn't make me very happy or confident as a customer.

You're very welcome!

Yea, it's a tight fit. The older gen trucks come straight up but they tightened up the tolerance for aesthetic purposes.

No sweat getting them out unless you live in Alberta and only drive in winter. Ford always wants stretch bolts replaced or anything with threadlock. Don’t use an extension when you torque the box bolts, works way better. I learned the hard way

@@raincitywrench117 Good to hear. I'm in MI, so we see our fair share of salt. I have the big boy 1/2" Milwaukee impact like yours, so it should do the trick. Thanks for the video - very informative!

You can do it! Think that was from Happy Gilmore... lol

Good luck!🙂

Took me about 6 hrs this video was great help thanks man

Any time!

I haven't installed upfitter switches yet. My super duty already has them but don't have anything wired in yet. Glad you enjoyed the video.

These are aluminum beds and not worried too much but good ideas.🙂

Smart move. Time is money. Those B&W's are even more of a pain but really nice units. I've installed two.

Cool! Have seen them sitting on top before and thought the tech was real lazy but now that you said this, it's possible a lot of people don't know they go into the groove.

Most definitely!

Thanks for the visit!

Ford aluminum beds are somewhere around 300 lbs & can easily be lifted off with three people. Have a couple sawhorses nearby and you are good to go.

I contacted parts. They show no part# for individual bolt kit but did send picture showing hardware quantity and description. Email me if you like & I can send to you.

The factory ball has a lever on top that flips down pressing out two pins that lock it in. I have install two B&W hitches, Those are nice too as they allow you to stow ball upside down when not in use.

Just needs to fit Ford factory prep packages. Etrailer has a few manufactures:www.etrailer.com/g-2019_Ford_F-350+Super+Duty.htm?style=8+Foot+Bed+with+OEM+Prep+Pkg Ford also makes a nice unit that has tie downs and a storage bag.

The steel boxes have the same dimples. I start with the center & fronts and then measure back 13" (I think) to find the rears.

I don't but you may call your local dealer and cross your fingers. Many of the new pickups have the inner brackets welded on and if your dealer installs these they may have a spare set laying around.

Appreciate the comment! Everything is the exact same process.

@@raincitywrench117 Thank you so much for replying.

You're in luck, yes they do. BC3Z-99000A25-A www.fordgenuineautoparts.com/oem-parts/ford-hardware-kit-bc3z99000a25a?origin=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjwquWVBhBrEiwAt1Kmwkogj0KiksQp1q1W9EwbRUNdG9diwP8G64wxGwTNdxOWis75F0yxTRoCkDAQAvD_BwE

Sorry, I don't know

Strange. No idea what it would be for. Wonder if it accidentally fell in at the processing plant?

These aluminum boxes are real light. With the tailgate off, four people can lift it easily. Remove the bumper, invite three friends over and yard that box off. Make sure you drill all the holes first when the box is still bolted down. When you remove the box bolts you can grab a corner and lift up to see how easily it picks up.

The fifth wheel bracket will set the height. When installing the side brackets, leave them ever so slightly loose. Lay the crossmember on the frame aligning the two dowel pins then install and tighten the top bolts which will suck the side brackets up tight to the fifth wheel crossmember & will set the height. Lastly tighten the four main side bracket bolts. Bing bang boom you are done! Well once the box is back on.

I do not. I think the factory puck setup is for 2010 and up. ETRAILER has below bed rail fifth wheel hitch setups for that year.

Just built a new super duty last week with the prep package. Will be ordering one soon but I'm in no hurry. How long is your wait? I did one and left the tailgate on but it makes the box =back heavy- It's just easier getting it out of the way. The box is surprisingly light and seems like the tailgate is 20% of the weight.

I do not but it definitely wouldn't hurt. Since it's an aluminum box I don't bother, a little oxidation around the lip is all I see happening IMO.

@@raincitywrench117 Doh, my bad! I had totally forgotten Ford switched the SD to aluminum as well!

Nope, won't matter at all. The passenger side pucks end up slightly forward on every one I have done. Once the plastic caps are on you don't really notice. I guess that's why the holes are drilled quite a bit larger to allow for misalignment. The structural rigidity will remain unchanged. I may run a tape measure from the cab back to the front pucks on the next one to see if there is any wiggle room front to back.

Everything is identical 🙂

They make a gooseneck kit with anchors that lock into the outer pucks. Works slick. Not sure what you are asking on the receptacles?

I recently bought a non ferrous bit for the next one I do, should work great.

Depending on your year this may be what you need. HC3Z15A416A accessories.ford.com/products/super-duty-2017-2021-7-pin-trailer-wiring-harness-1

Almost every one I have done is slightly off to the passenger side and forward on the right side. There are alignment pins that the bracket fits over but it places it off slightly. Luckily it won't affect anything other than the aesthetics to the eye. You will be good to go 👍

@@raincitywrench117 thanks very much for the reply! Much appreciated

I'm not 100% sure but know our dealer charges 5.5hr and think out labor rate is $189hr. My guess is the kit is around 750 bucks so that would put the total install somewhere around $1800 before tax.

Someone else emailed me wanting the bolt kit PN so I contacted our parts department. They said parts are not sold separately. It only list one part number for the kit with a breakdown on description of parts. Will look and see if I still have that screenshot.

@@raincitywrench117 I found a write up article you did online. Reese makes the hitches, they just use regular bolts, thats probably what I'll do. Thanks for getting back to me.

BC3Z-5F057-A is the kit for 11-16 Superduty's. It looks almost identical and goes in the same way.

If you order that option it comes installed. Check your build sheet to see if it's listed. It used to be around $600. I ordered that option on my 2022 but they stopped installing during the covid years so I had to pull it. Maybe Ford is back to normal now and they are installing at the factory again?

Yes, exactly

No, the frames are different from the steel body to the aluminum body.

Not sure what the kits go for these days, maybe around $700? Dealer labor rates will vary but my guess is this job is somewhere between $1500-$2000

You were close, part 792 labor 1035....

I haven't yet. Was supposed to do one last Monday on a 23 but it didn't show up. There are quite a few changes on the 23 from the 22 like front control arms, body style/badging, instrument cluster, electronic parking brake, etc but doubt the box/frame are any different.

They are on back order again? They were on BO last year also. I use the same really sharp narrow width gasket scraper in the video to dig in and work around each bolt head and then it will peel up and off in one piece. You may be able to get away with using a box cutter to cut around bolts and then pry up coating with screwdriver

Wow, after over a 2 month wait the prep pack finally came in. Box had been through the war zone

and of course was missing parts. Drivers inner bracket not there ( probably laying in a FedEx facility somewhere) no trim kit for the bed holes and the locating pins are missing. The dealer parts people here where I bought the truck are really struggling to figure out what the part #’s are for the missing pieces. Couldn’t be so lucky as to have the inner brackets already welded to the truck and it looks like the LC3C-5L028-CA may be superseded to a new number. The pass side inner I received has the LC3C-5L028-DB listed on it. I’m betting the locating pins are the same as the ones used for the bed and am hoping you could verify that, if so I’ve figured out the # for that.

@@bobmathews4021 Don't know but they look identical. The last couple kits had metal locating pins so they have changed over from plastic ones at some point. Worst case is you can eyeball xmember or drop bolts down to get aligned and remove after tightening. I will say that every kit I've installed, the crossmember has ended up slightly off to the passenger side but the plastic rings cover up the gaps. The first kit I received was also completely destroyed and missing wiring, brackets. The customer has waited for weeks to get it installed and was on his way down to pick up his new 5th wheel. He completely flipped out and was screaming from what I heard and said was not leaving dealer until it was installed. FO MO CO had to overnight the parts but of course they sent wrong stuff and customer came unglued. LOL What a hell of a mess! I believe the dealer now stocks multiple kits and the first thing I do is check inventory. Ford has completely dropped the ball on packaging, all that holds box closed is two straps and they weight so much that one end peels wide open when they are done heaving it around.

Yea, would be a good idea. I'm kind of curious what that option runs.

I think it’s like a 500 upgrade. 3-4 hours of a mechanics time plus the parts. I’m guessing is more to have it done after assembly

You don't have to take the bed completely off but will need to remove the box bolts, lift it up enough to place 4x4 wood blocks between the frame to access the bolts and remove bracket. The box is fairly light and can easily be lifted by two people to wedge blocks under it.

I'm not sure. Have had a few 450's in the shop and the cab, box and frame look identical. I think the difference is in the front/rear suspension, differentials and wheels. To be sure, stop by your local dealer with a tape measure. Wow, 1/4" tray. Now that will have some weight. Great idea.

@@raincitywrench117 well unfortunately I can’t find any f450 within 400 miles of me. Thanks for your quick response

@@BenDover-gz6bg Just looked up specs on Fords website. www.ford.com/trucks/super-duty/models/f450-limited/ Only one 8' box listed for F250-450's. I don't think they have changed box design since they introduced the aluminum bodies so that being said I think the boxes are identical between a 19 F350 and 21 F450. Cheers!

Interesting... Have no clue. The cabs are essentially the same but pretty sure the frames are different and they don't have the holes in the frame to attach the side brackets.

That I don't know. Seems like every other one I do has the inner brackets already welded on from factory. These are all factory welds, I think the frames are welded in many other areas also so it must not affect anything. The kit has the inner bolt on brackets for those vehicles which are missing them.

You bet. They are not stretch bolts and have one torque spec. I like doing these jobs. Haven't done one in a few months but spring & summer are coming. Thanks for watching.

Yea. The steel boxes lift straight up without interference. I have a 22 on order too since last November. Got a call a few weeks ago saying the fifth wheel prep package would add another 8 weeks so I told them to take that option off. Disappointing since it is only a $550 option. Now I have to send probably 800 or more for the kit and the time to install later down the road.

@@raincitywrench117 I had it removed after looking up what the legs cost for the A20. The bed rail kit for $250 is a far less expensive option and doesn't require bed removal. Get a rubber mat, cut slots in it and you once again have a flat surface to slide things on and lay flat. The only item I really need is the box 7 pin and the TPMS/Camera socket. Does the factory installed Prep have the backing plate that accepts the 7/21 socket in the TPMS kit, or is it the same square box that you installed in this video?

@@acdii It does not come with it. You will have to do your homework but think you need the 7/12-pin trailer connector and wiring kit LC3T-14G621-AC. This is for pro trailer backup assist, camera and tpms setup.

I haven't done one on a Chevy yet but would guess it is almost the same procedure. If you are installing a factory below bed unit then the box will either need to be lifted up and blocks placed in between frame to gain access or removed all together.

Yes sir. Ford says in the directions to place 4x4 blocks between bed and frame to gain clearance. Removing box makes it much easier but I did my first one by blocking it up. I wouldn’t be surprised if four guys could lift the box off. They are real light compared to steel.

That I can't say. I know all the aluminum beds have them but haven't done a steel body install yet. If you have the bracket, set it in the bed and align the center hole making sure the bracket is correctly aligned with the gooseneck hole facing forward from center line of bracket then eyeball a mark through the center of the four outer pucks with a paint pen and that will get you real close for when you chip away the bed liner. I would start by scraping away the center hole area to see if the steel boxes have dimples.

@@raincitywrench117 Thanks for the reply, I'll cut a bit off where the gooseneck ball gets placed and go from there.

Had someone ask me more than a year ago the same question so I sent off a parts request asking for bolt kit # and they got back saying Ford does not supply separately and only sold as a kit. Have a spare install sheet and will see if it shows anything

Don't see why not. Would probably require new carpet kit and lower instrument panel block off panel. On second thought, It probably has some parts underneath like the yaw rate sensor, data cables, power port, inductive charger, etc. But maybe the sensors would still be in the same spot with the jumper bolted on top? I guess you would have to source base, xlt or commercial parts. Not sure if I've seen jump seats in any other trim line

Ford makes ball and safety chain loop kits, also etrailer and other retailers have them. The safety chain loops go in the two back outer puck holes in the prep package, that is if yours has factory installed prep package bracket. Here is one kit with pictures below installed. www.etrailer.com/Gooseneck-Hitch/Curt/C60692.html Hope that helps.

@@raincitywrench117 ahh, ok that makes sense. Thanks for the reply

Ford does not sell any of the parts separately as far as I know. Looked into this last year for another guy that needed a bolt kit. That being said, you are in luck. I have two sets of the inner brackets. Email me at raincitywrench@gmail.com and we can figure out how to get them to you. Have been super busy and may take a little time to get back

I think they are called flag nuts. Yea, the ear is meant to keep it from turning but I like to use a wrench on the nut side because they rattle violently back and forth when using an impact.

The 2011-16 steel body has one part # and the 2017-current has another. I don't know if Ford offers one for 2010 and older but was told reese makes these for Ford. B&W makes a really nice unit and have installed a couple. I highly recommend pulling the box as they are a royal pain to install. www.etrailer.com/multi-product.aspx?pc1=BWRVK3500-5W&pc2=BWGNRK1108-5W&VehicleID=20065007548&HHYear=2006&HHMake=Ford&HHModel=F-250+Super+Duty

I have a 2007 f350, used the Reese under bed puck set up. Uses factory ford 5th wheel hitches as well.

As far as I know Ford does not offer one for that year but Etrailer should have something that will work for you.

Wished I had a kit here to look at but don't. I saved the directions but all it shows is description and quantity of each part under HC3Z-5F057-A kit. You will probably have to call your local dealer and pry it out of them

Reese makes these units for Ford. Etrailer has the brackets. www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Reese/RP27FR.html

Well that stinks! I would take a propane torch and heat up the bolts from underneath & break them loose by hand first with a BIG cheater bar. Then go to impact wrench to remove. Try to keep the heat concentrated without burning up anything & having an assistant up top prying while the other is down below holding on the heat would be a plus. Good luck!

@@raincitywrench117 Bed is off. I don’t have pretapped holes. I’ve got the puck piece up against the back/middle set of bed bolts. Any other guide to go by to get it to where it’s supposed to be? I’ve got 8 holes to drill.

@@randyhopkins281 Not sure if I understand your problem. There are no holes in the frame for the brackets? The more I think about it, your frame will be c-channel instead of boxed in like the newer ones. If you have the holes drilled in the box then place cross member on the frame in the general area and then drop the box back on while lining up the bed bolt holes & the cross member inside the drilled box holes. Once all lined up, mark the x-member on both sides front to back & side to side then remove the box again. Loosely install side brackets, mark frame holes and drill. Bolt up and reinstall box. Will be a PITA but doable

@@raincitywrench117 thanks. I ended up having to move the whole thing and redrill again. The cross support is as hitting the unit.