Remember new engine have a tight bushings on the crankshaft so full synthetic oil will not feed through well cause to rub each other hot. Need to wait about 30000 miles then can use it

@@pauldonnelly6691 what's?

@@DS-TRUCKS I m talking about bushings bearings in the crankshaft where the Pistons bolt togother this most important part for oil go through. The full synthetic oil can't not go in the bushing very well when the engine is new but the full synthetic oil is ok for rest engine no problem. This why need put many miles first before use synthetic oil that all.

The composition of current oils contain approximately 15% additives, each oil manufacturer and automotive company have specific blends of proprietary additives for their products or standard fill factory oils. The entire engine development process including 1000's of hours durability testing and many component modifications is done with the standard fill oil. Oil and Automotive manufacturers do not share their additive packages make-ups due to the amount of research required to develop them. Using any oil other than what the manufacturer designed the engine to run is a bad idea!! Also never mix different brands/grades of oils because the additive packages may be incompatible. If you want to learn about oil go to the American Petroleum Institute website

Paul Donnelly p

i run the motorcraft synthetic blend and the ford racing oil filter and change mine every 4000miles,,,cars run excellent

I run maple syrup and a coffee filter and changethem every time I turn onto a new street.

@@qanononabong8491 😂 I think I’d have problems with ant infestation if I did that.

@@qanononabong8491 I bet you that damn thing farts a lot?

I just purchased a V10 Ford motorhome with 180000 miles on it. What oil would you suggest I use a synthetic or a blended I also do like Mobil 1 oil

Thank you for a great post reply. Very few of these offer quality information like this one! Happy 4th!!! Go FORD

Good for you. For 20 years I buy the cheapest full synthetic with the right specs and viscosity. Never any issues with any of our cars. Oil change interval is MUCH more important than the brand used.

Omg. Ur right.

1FNJO LMAO!! Hhhhhhmmmm

LOL

I lol'd, but your comment made me curious so I looked it up. Royal Purple was founded in 1986, where as Barney and Friends ran from 1992-2009. I'm fun at parties.

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Thanks!

Very interesting... Theres nothing wrong with synthetic blend...

The way we did it we were not looking for extended drain schedules. It was more important to get them in to look them over.

@@DS-TRUCKS I got a question let’s say u wanna run full synthetic in ur car I have an 04 Ford Mustang 3.8 v6 an it’s has some mileage on it how much is 300K an I’m kinda going threw a head war which I should use for it bc all I do is got to work an back now Ik y’all said synthetic blend‘s fine but an if u ran full synthetic it would loosen some things up possibly but what if you just wanted to run it an I just won’t the best for my vehicles idc if it does cost a lil more to make it run better I just won’t wanna get ever inch I can outta what I can an i just really would like ur guys opinion or ur friend that’s had 20+ years experience with ford motor company I’m sure have some experience

I'm with you!

i love me some AMSOIL!

Most mechanics prefer minimum requirements. I still like my full synthetics!

Exactly he is a mechanic not an engineer. He did not design the engine or the lubricant oil. He thinks he knows more than many highly educated engineers . Absolutely not

EXACTLY.....Lots and lots of anecdotal evidence and hyperbole here. Nice guys but a vid like this should be technical....not "stories".

He is a cheap oil seller

I totally agree!!!!

Me too, not only for the benefit of engines but the money savings is real nice.

Every 5k for Ecoboost and you're golden.

@END TIMES NICE ONE!!! LMMFAO

@END TIMES I wasn't trying to be sarcastic or insult you in anyway. I just thought it was funny what you wrote. I'm just not political at all...Non-Political. I couldn't care less who's president...opinions vary and people are going to say, do live, etc. the way they want. Just like me...Just do it Legally! But I must say this..."I'd rather reign in Hell than serve in Heaven!!!" Just me personally. But I do understand what you mean...We live in some really f&*ked up times nowadays. And I said this before and will continue too...I'd rather be stuck in the 80's than forced to live in the 2020's!!! Stay Safe!

Full synthetic oil is the same as synthetic blend their both petroleum base oil with synthetic additive package. Only a100% oil like Amsoil or Redline and a few more are the best

Facts 💯

Watch deboss garage and see what synthetic oil does to a engine

On the old HEUI systems I'd say synthetic should be mandatory.

Tom e totally agree with you on that from over the pond..)))🇬🇧👍

Sorry but I don't believe that a 99' with 350k miles has never had to have any repairs. I agree with you about the regular oil changes.

@@curtis1951 he probably means no major issues besides basic maintenance. Half our work fleet trucks have this sort of mileage and no big issues other than idler pullies, belts etc.

@@boostedbadboyzx12r31 I'm sure that's what he means but I still don't believe a 99' with that many miles has had no major issues. I call bs. 😂

Using premium in a 1999 f150 is dumb af

You were probably using 30-40w oil as well since he viscosity makes a bigger difference than conventional or full synthetic. Also older 90's oil was a bit better than new oil since it had more zddp so it protected better but because of emissions they cut it down a lot and it still had all the additives and detergents. Sure there are other elements in anti wear but slicing the zinc by half from a few decades ago and thinning the oil and making the engines run hotter from 180 to 210 degrees also makes the oil even thinner and last less just so the engine can make a bit more power.

You're retired but when you were a technician manufacturers probably didn't have unreasonable oil change intervals as they do now. Look how well it worked for Toyota and their 12k mile interval in the 2.5? What about GM's lfx? GM reeled the oil life monitor back to 5k in a recall due to timing components failing early, during warranty even. The MFG recommend interval must be reasonable, with a reasonable viscosity too, these days I don't trust them due to CAFE. I change at 5k with a true full synthetic matter what. I guarantee I will never have an oil related failure.

Dustin in the 80’s Toyota has two versions for oil change. Severe service 3750miles and regular service 7500 miles. We always recommend 3-3500 on oil change and Castro’s 20w-50. Many got over 200k on them following these guidelines. That was southwest Houston traffic. One of the worst in the country.

@@dustin9035 Todays oils are far superior than in the past due to synthetic and semi synthetic. When using Mobil 1 synthetic long life motor oil, Toyota says you can go 12,000 miles between oil and filter changes in the 2.5 L 4cyl engines such as in the 2015 Toyota Rav 4. I reccomend changing the oil and filter every 6,000 to 7,000 miles. The cleaner you keep your engine oil the less deposits you'll have into the main and rod bearings. In general, no matter what you drive, you can't change the engine oil too often.

Good advice. Never trust the dealer. Web their recommendations are questionable. Heck, Toyota doesn't even have a recommended transmission fluid change or drain.

@@jbean530 I recommend changing transmission, differential, and transfer case fluids every 60,000 miles.

Did you notice any improvements in the way the engine was running? After the switch to synthetic...

@@DS-TRUCKS I have owned the vehicle since it was new. The engine only had 60k miles in it at the time wheb I switched to synthetic, but was running great. I was doing oil changes between 3k and 5k miles with conventional. The only issue I had is it developed a couple of oil leaks shortly after which I fixed. The positives besides longevity is better fuel mileage due to less friction, easier starts in the winter months. It currently has 295k miles, my son drives it every day. The engine runs as good today as it did 26 years ago when it was new. Very impressed with the durability I have been able to get with this engine. Synthetic oil is worth the money.

When you go to starbucks and spend 5 bucks 1 visit you put in full synthetic 5 qts 20 bucks and it lasts for 3500 miles it's worth every drop

this is the best comment. anything put to clean the engine...you need to get the stuff out. do anything oil change. same thing using seamfoam or the shell nitro gas.

I would bet the mobil1 has a better additive package that does a better job of keeping debris suspended in the oil. I always laugh at people who believe cleaner oil (at the end of the drain interval) is good oil when the truth is the exact opposite.

@@dlg5485 i agree. However, the costco stuff is working fine. Engine running perfect with 194k. Many of these oils come from the same suppliers with similar additive packages.

@@MarzNet256 It's not just about the base oil. I'm sure the Costco stuff lubricates just fine, but it still could be leaving deposits behind which you wouldn't notice until it started to sap your power years down the road and possibly cause other problems. This is why using an oil with a good additive package is so important.

@@dlg5485 I have not had any problems with it. No build up to speak of (had a look under valve cover). Engine runs perfect both in scan data and performance at 194,000 miles. Meets all API ratings. Unfortunately, a lot of the price difference in brands is marketing.

He's a good guy!

He’s a legend! Hope he gets his 6.7 one day soon! We’ll see him on Friday!

I own a 2006 GMC Canyon with 3.5 engine. I have used only Mobil One synthetic oil. My truck has 368k miles and the engine is still running good.

That's surprising since the 4.6 Triton is horrible and has lots of problems. That convince me more that Synthetic is the way to go.

@@jaureguixp i have never had any trouble with any ford 4.6 or 5.4 Triton V8 engines, ever... Pulled 6,000 lbs up Wolf creek pass in Colorado with this very truck. My brothers Jeep with a worthless 318 V8 had big problems pulling a loaded 5x8 uhaul trialer up. Fords are by far the best trucks on the road.

@@jaureguixp The 4.6 is a great motor and they are very reliable. My brother had over 380k mile on his Thunderbird with a 4.6. I've had 3 different mustang's all with a 4.6 and never had any issues with either the sohc or dohc.

I have a 2001 F150 supercrew and I only run full synthetic. The 5.4 in it is running strong with 337k miles!

Thats not Motorcraft oil your running. Last I checked ford makes cars, not oil. Its made by citgo. Nothing special. Its simply rebadged oil, like any private label brand. You would be better off running wal mart super tech synthetic. Its better and probably cost less.

Those old volvos also have a specific output of about 30kwperlitre. And those stories of longevity are just that. Stories. Its always an old guy who forgot about the headgasket at 100,000 kms etc etc. Who knows how much work theyve ACTUALLY had done. No way to prove it. We had old peugeot diesels with 800,000 kms on the clock still drove like new. So? They were serviced from new by our workshop to the factory spec. These days its up to 80-100kwperlitre. They NEED that excellent synth oil. Use the best oil you can afford.

Thank you!

And synthetics can be less than 27

The oil "can be" anything you claim if you're simply making up information. The real question is, what is the exact formulation, and what is the additive package as opposed to Internet speculation?

That's why you get the oils that say 100% synthetic. Problem solved.

I run any grade I can find as long as it's ethanol-free.

I run shell rotella in all of my bikes and no problems at half the price. I even used it on my track bikes where the rpm was usually above 10k rpm.

Amsoil is the best

@@frankbutaric3565 why run diesel oil in a motorcycle? It's not formulated for wet clutchs, hot running air cooled or high RPM liquid cooled engines.

Same here, using Amsoil for the last 11 years for my cars/truck/lawnmower. Never had any problem, engines run smoother and better gas mileage.

@Sally Hillal they have motorcycle oil, as well as other specialty oil like air cooled oil

That's a good pointe...

Exactly I don’t even think you can get conventional oil in 0W-20.

@@SalivatingSteve You can't, but Castrol JUST came out with a 0W20 in synthetic blend. It doesn't have the dexos rating on the oil so it can't be used in the new 5.3L GM truck engines, but it can be used in pretty much any other 0W20 required engine.

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For my diesels i use Rotella T6 full synthetic. I once used the "blend" and the engine sounded like a old typewriter. Powerstrokes get this wierd ticking sound if they dont like the oil. For my Powerstrokes its Rotella T6.

My friend had a Chevy van with 327,000 miles on it. He used Dino oil every three thousand miles same as your uncle. The van engine was running great but the tranny was on its way out so he traded it in.

True. I run Full synthetic and I would never think of running it over 5K miles !

Exactly right. People think there’s some kind of magic oil out their and they are absolutely nuts. You take care of your vehicle and change your lubricants regularly and you will be just fine. I laugh when I see people have this argument. Way to many factors involved to blame or praise a particular oil for long engine life or catastrophic failure.

What type of Chevy did he have? Probably could have replaced the tranny and got a lot more miles to it.

Better to have enough oil than the "right" oil.

a quote parroted directly from skotty kilmer

Not a RP fan..have tried it in 2 different vehicles ...piston slapped in both...drianed it out...noise stopped. REDLINE 2 to 1.

I will try that next.

That's my oil of choice.

Good to hear from someone who knows their s***! Thanks for commenting!

Changing the oil every 5k is why your having such good success. Let all the idiots go 10k

Itsme Dude if it ain’t leaking then it ain’t working

Itsme Dude you just gotta get a really good filter 😆 my caddy leaks about a quarter every month and topping it keeps my oil clean for a long time. I use Pennzoil platinum on all my cars, it's $22 bucks a gallon at Walmart.

And it keeps the dust down on a gravel driveway!

I agree.

I have a 2004 Mercury Sable. Been using Motocraft from day one too.

With what change intervals?

@@njsongwriter 3,000

That's amazing! 95 350 lasted that long!

I doubt there is any sludge if it was changed on those regular intervals. I used mobil conventional oil in my 96 explorer and at 280,000km the inside of the oilpan was clean - regular 3000 mile intervals. No wear either.

500,000 miles on conventional oil NYC taxicabs kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aLqWi9SBucuaiqM.html

Boom! I guess it's not rocket (or space shuttle) science. Good job!

That was a long time ago. There's better stuff now

The Mobil 1 in this video isn’t a FULL synthetic. It’s a hydrocracked conventional and it’s certainly wasn’t what was used in the Space Shuttle. Learn the difference between group 2, 3 and 4 oils before giving your opinion.

@@mcquillinfamily3940 It's still called full synthetic but it's not 100% synthetic.

Looool

I do this before every oil change on my 5.4 3v. People can talk junk about it all they want, but it seems to be working. 121,000 and counting

Me too, look into an oil catch can, the blow by will carbon up your valves especially pistons 2&3. Also it clogs your intercooler. Check it out .

@@lonewolf2364 Agreed. You'll be surprised how much crap is collected during the winter time. My 2.7 got about a gallon worth over the cold months here in Michigan. Nothing in the summer time. Great investment! I suggest UPR products. Great build quality.

Very interesting story. Thank your for sharing!

@@DS-TRUCKS ...and thanks back for posting this important topic using a Ford engine service professional as well as your personal experiences Getting good information out there without a personal agenda or opinion is a service to all.

The full syn oil is really thin. So it's necessary to add Lucas oil additive etc. Also using a 'high mileage' full syn oil is a good idea.

Thanks!

Same, since 1990. Several cars with multiple hundreds of thousands of miles on each. Engines are spotless inside when I took the valve covers off. Literally like brand new. No sludge, no varnish. No oil burning. I use nothing but full synthetic, even in my lawnmower. Engines are complex and very expensive. If you want it to last, use synthetic and lawn to change it yourself. It's easy.

Absolutely true. But don’t extend the intervals between oil changes.

🤔 if you like mobile one, then that's the way to go

I'm a big fan of the Ford Motorcraft blended simi synthetic oil, Thats what I would use and change the oil at 5K or once a year. If you see my post above I have had personal experience with my Harley and Ford showing "possible" lube related problems when I used Mobil-1, thats not saying Mobil-1 caused the issue but I have NEVER has a possible lube related issue in any car truck or toy using Motorcraft oil or even the least expensive Super-Tech straight 30 weight in my lawn mowers! As long as you use the proper weight and spec oil Ford tells you to use and change it when Ford suggest you change it ( Use the severe duty maintenance schedule ) and change air filters as air filters are the best oil filter as Silica is not a friend to any engine oil, that motorhome will rust out long before you see any oil issues no matter what you use as long as its to Ford Spec. My 2 cents...

You're right because I've done it quite a few times and never had any problems at all.

You can make a damn cocktail of 8 different oils and it'll still be fine.

Robert Maybeth 1 second ago Concur. On my previous 4 cars (1983 Nissan Sentra, 1988 Nissan Z24 pickup 2.4 L, 2001 Toyota solara 1FMZE V6, 2003 Camry 1FMZE V6) I switched back and forth with synth and dino (non synthetic) all the time. Like almost every other change. i noticed no difference in oil consumption or anything else. The Sentra had 180k miles when I sold it to somebody else for $450, still running fine. The Solara has 225,000 miles. and still going, the Camry has 200,000. All had their original engines although, the Nissan pickup got its oil changed every 3 months (usually Penzoil) but I used mobil 1 in the summertime. The pickup had a valve job at 200,000, at which time I tore it apart and found the engine whistle- clean inside, even the oil pan. More important the timing chain, timing gears, camshaft, oil pump, rod and main bearings were barely worn, the cylinders had NO ridge on top, near-max compression (AFTER the remanuf cylinder head attached of course since the piston rings were good) the only seriously worn part was the rubber on the timing chain tensioner, which I replaced. Engine leaked oil but did not burn any. I was in automotive work for over 40 years, heard repeatedly "never switch from dino to synthetic oil or vice versa because if you do it'll start leaking/ burning oil" but never saw any difference one way or the other. I worked for a huge government fleet for 30 years and 99.9% of the fleet cars just used dino, except once in a while our "fleet manager" would decide to experiment with the "synthetic vs dino oil" concept, we techs would be told to only use Mobil 1 in a few cars or trucks and to monitor the oil consumption if any. We were never told the results of these experiments so I never found out first-hand what difference, if any using synthetic oil in a fleet would make. The only remarkable thing pertaining to oil related engine failure that happened; in the mid 1990's there was one old Ford Escort of the fleet in which the driver did the truly astonishing. Somehow she drove the car in such a way to put a connecting rod (big end) through the cast aluminum oil pan. Apparently the oil light came on at speed and the driver just ignored it, and kept driving until the engine went kaboom. Anyway, in my long experience of both fixing and driving a sh$t ton of cars - it is probably irrelevant whether you use synthetic oil or dino that is the determining factor that determines if you squeeze the maximum life out of your vehicle. It is probably more important to use a shorter interval between changes, than it is to use synthetic oil. Unless you drive in very hot/cold climates frequently, in which case, to me the benefits of full synthetic (particularly a longer interval between oil changes) might be worth the higher additional cost.

In the 07 F150 FX2 4.6 that I had I bought with 102K on it. Drove it to 230K and only used castrol magnatec 5w20 with motorcraft filter. Only changed oil and filter every 15k. Truck still ran like new when I got rid of it. But it was 90% highway miles no idle time. 2,000 rpm for hours at a time.

B B Causes leaks....no it doesn’t. Another “mechanic” who believes utter BS!

I hear a lot of good things about those oils!

@@DS-TRUCKS As long as an oil has the recommended 'API' Ref letters that are stated in your Makers Manual that what goes in there ...be it Amazon, Walmart or whatever ........Best oil is clean oil...www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil/eolcs-categories-and-classifications/oil-categories#tab-gasoline

I agree. Walmart super tech transmission fluid was good.

They are manufactured by major petroleum companies with the customers label on it.

@@barnabyjones6995 I change it every 5,000 miles.

Same here. That's why I'm running Rottella Gas Truck synthetic vs Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. The NOACK rating on Rotella is 7.4 while the Motorcraft is 14.7.

Dirty valves have little to do with which oil you use and more with where your injectors are located. For your oil to keep your intake valves clean, you would have to get oil onto the valves, which would mean that you would be burning oil (white exhaust smoke) and would have to top off the oil on a regular basis.

@@any0n378 Yes, agree. But..... the point is that with direct injection, it is oil that gets deposited on the intakes. I'm not using low-volatility oil to clean the intakes - it is the oil vapors that contributes to them getting dirty in the first place. I'm using it to help reduce the buildup. At least that was/is the hope. Although TBH I now pretty much clean them every oil change - they are very easy to get to in the Fusion.

Very true.

true, better price than any auto parts store has to offer

It’s $26 for a 5 quart jug of Mobil1 full synthetic at Walmart. But last time I went to Autozone they had a $30 special that included a free oil filter, so it ended up being cheaper for me doing that.

I heard it's really good too

@@SalivatingSteve Sometimes I see their rollback price has all of the Mobil 1 products for just over $23 at times (Mobil 1, EP, and Advanced Fuel Economy). The only one I've seen that's never that cheap is the Annual Protection, which Walmart is currently discontinuing. My local Blain's Farm & Fleet usually has it cheaper than all of the auto parts stores, especially when they have it on sale in conjunction with the rebate, but you're right, Walmart is usually the best price. I've also seen that they now have this new 12-qt. box for about $52.

A lot of mechanics think if I have 5w30 is better. I think either one is good. Ford has designed engines to work well with 5W-20. For example when you look at the 5.4 3 valve. They increase the oil capacity so the oil would perform more like a 5W-30. Same with the 5.0.

Amsoil oil makes great products

@@DS-TRUCKS Yes they are great but no oil, no matter how "great" it is, can save your motor from carbon wear. Extended oil changes are a bad idea no matter how good the oil is. Generally 5k for synthetic and 3k for conventional though I don't like rules of thumb. Look at the oil, if it's dirty or foamy, change it. I was an Amsoil believer (and dealer) until I got schooled by an actual petroleum engineer. Mobil 1, Valvoline, Pennzoil synthetics are just as good for common uses as long as you change them on a regular basis. Amsoil is technically better in testing of new oil, but carbon particles from blow-by that every internal combustion engine experiences make that difference insignificant. The cost however, is not insignificant to the average person.

Amsoil Filter is same as Mobil 1 extended. Walmart sells Mobile 1 Filter for $9.98

@@slingbart705 Last I looked, the Mobil 1 filter had some kind of additive in it that entered the oil over time. I don't know if it still does or if the Amzoil filter does also but I default against additives in my oil beyond what the oil itself has generally.