Great! It really is an easy repair. I am glad you found this useful :)

Haha, welcome to the Caribbean 😉

You welcome, thanks for watching :)

I didn't bother, though the other side went about a year later.

How did you get on Charles ?

it really is, just take your time releasing the pressure from the spring.

They are good. Maybe a tad stiffer than oem, but still comfortable.

Haha! Yes, rear disks done now, I used ford disks and pads because I have had some problems with aftermarket pads de-laminating for some reason.

120nm

Torque was set for 120Nm.

If unsure better take it to a car mechanic, always better safe than sorry.

@@TeachDIY I took it to a mechanic and it was woth it, as the bolt snapped :(

No symptoms, it was discovered during a MOT test.

Thanks Shane, very straight forward actually. This is the 1.8TDCI, such a great wee car for DIY repairs. I just replaced the exhaust pipe and silencer, it took me no more than 30 minutes.

Not really, pay attention when you remove the old one, some cars have springs that each end is different just put the new one in the same orientation. Also, you should be able to see the imprint of the old spring on the lower craddle, just match the new spring to the imprint.

I didn't need to, this was a straight swap of a spring. It is recommended that if you change a spring, you should take your car for alignment after a week or two, this will give time to the new spring to settle in place.

There's no specific mileage, I never actually noticed that there was an issue with the spring until I took the car for MOT and the tester saw that it was broken, the oter side still have the original spring.

@@TeachDIY ha ha ha exactly the same for me. Seemed perfect then MoT fail :-) thanks to your video it is now MoT perfecto

Hi. I was having trouble to get your problem clear, but you mean bolt on video 1:05 may be bad on you? Have you tried to soak it on penetrating oil or heat it up when opening? The part number for new should be "Ford 6699982", Google it I cannot paste link here. I personally think that if you have problems to find correct bolt, then maybe general 10.9 rated M12x75 or M12x80. But should use specified Ford part if you can grasp it somewhere. I hope this helps 🙂🔩

And to add that on new parts that bolt have separate nut, not welded into frame.

@@982678249 OK. Thanks for the info. Yes it's the bolt at 1:05. I have soaked it but I've given up. My pal is doing it for me next week - he's got his own repair workshop. Thanks again. 👍

@@johngibson6787 Hello how's going? Did you get that bolt sorted out? How a about bushing that bolt goes through, did bushing stay intact when opening bolt (not sticked etc.)? I'm planning to replace rear springs also on this summer, so any experieces are interesting to hear 🙂 I may try to use spring compressor if it fits, then no disassembly needed. But if not fit then must disassemble as shown on video.

@@982678249 I took it to a garage in the end... and they sheared the bolt!! All I would say is probably TRY it the way I did. Spray and leave to soak overnight. Day of job, spray again then wire brush both ends to clean rust then spray again. Using an air impact wrench try to undo it. Switch to tighten - just for a second - then just keep doing that. 10-15 seconds undo. 1-2 seconds tighten until it loosens off. That's what I did with the shocks. It worked but still took about 20 mins of that - each side. Did nothing for the springs though. Tried a breaker bar but stopped when I thought if I keep going, it'll shear. This was all after trying it with with a ratchet (using the same tighten/loosen method) but that did nothing.

The MK3 it's very similar to the MK4 but there's a difference on the way the control arm attaches to the hub carrier. On the MK3 the hub carrier holds the bushing. Once you remove the control arm bolt, you have to work the hub carrier out of the control arm with a screwdriver or similar. Do not carry out any work unless you are competent with tools, understand the risks involved and you know what you doing. All the best.

No its not...pain in the ass,spring is on the shock and needs compressed to fit if you are lucky enough to actually get the shock out lol....the pinch bolt will either break or be seized solid...springs are a bollocks to compress,especially the fronts..doing all mine tomorrow so wish me luck lol.... nowhere near as easy as the mk4

Mk3 and mk4 are completely different. No similarity at all. Mk3 is a strut suspension Mk4 is a double wishbone suspension. Mk3 needs the use of a spring compressor (nasty dangerous things)