I actually just dropped my transmission on my 2001 ford ranger, 4.0 SOHC 5 speed manual 4x4 this last weekend. Did it by myself, I actually took a block of wood, cut it down and notched it with a skill saw so it would fit flat on the bottom of the transmission. Then I took two ratchet straps and strapped it to teh bottom of the transmission. Grabbed my rolling jack, put it under there.. then wrestled it out and dropped it - only needed 1 hand to hold the driveshaft end!

This young fellow has the spunk that so many others need. He reminds me of someone I know 35 years ago... Gotta love it!

"Quick and easy..." This had me laughing as you were pulling down the trans. Great video. Thank you!

I bought a 199 Ranger that needed a fuel pump. Paid $200 for it. Changed fuel pump, EGR valve and tubing and put a new battery in her. She was running like a top....or so I thought. 185 miles later tranny goes out. Got another, gonna put it in this weekend 05/10/19. Thanks for the video!

Thanks for all the great tips every small town needs a man like you

I ended up doing the same thing I did on my Montero- very long extensions with a wobble at the end, doing the wrenching from behind the transmission. It helped to let the trans hang down without the crossmember to give a little more room to get the socket up there. He had a new clutch put in at one point and they must've really tightened them tight!! Took some work but we got it loose. Getting the new trans stabbed in with just muscles and a bottle jack was rough, but we got it. Thanks again!

I really appreciate the effort you took to produce this video. I had the "luxury" of watching not only your video, but many others. Yours was one of the best I could find that showed exactly how you got the tranny to the floor. Coming out, gravity is our friend. Over 30 years ago I did this the same way in my Dad's driveway on my '87 Mazda B2000. Putting it back together dang near gave me a hernia!

This is a fantastic video! Still helpful today, in 2021. Trying to save the brand new transmission from my ranger, to resell before I send it to scrap.

I use ratchet straps that go around the top side of the frame when I do transmissions. And zip tying a zip lock bag over the tail end helps. Also make sure truck is in NEUTRAL before you pull the shifter out. Otherwise you need to pop the shift forks back into neutral with a screwdriver.

one tip so you dont spill any fluid if you want to keep it is putting a plastic bag (fold)on the transmission end and use electrical tape around after you take off the drive shaft

I just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to make and post this video. My friend has a 1990 Ranger with the M50D-R1 trans and we just got a new one shipped to us today, and with some tips from your video we got straight to it, and almost have it out already. He is a one banana mechanic, so a its slow going. Tomorrow I will be working on it and we'll have the trans out fairly fast. Your video made very clear a couple of spots I was unsure about.

I recommend removing the shifter lever itself at the base holding bolt instead of removing the top "cap" of the transmission to remove the shifter lever. The NUT on the right side of the base of the shifter lever, remove it and screw it onto the left side of the shifter lever base bolt, it will pull the compressed pin bolt out of the tight fit . Remove the pin bolt and remove the shifter lever. Much simpler than how you did yours.

Took me as long to get the upper right hand bolt out as it did to get everything else out/disconnected to pull it. Wound up having to pull the cat converter, right front tire and plastic inner fender in order to weld a 1/2-13 nut on the rounded off bolt head to get the blasted thing out! Good news was the master cylinder didn't need the lengthy bleeding process. Was rock hard solid before reconnecting the high pressure line so I only had to gravity bleed the new slave cylinder. Thanks again!

Not so important but heads up. if you remove the positive cable to a battery and not the negative, you have a chance at causing a short. Like if a tool were too touch the positive side with the negative cable still attached. Always disconnect the negative first.

This was a very well made video that helped a lot. Thanks.

The funny part about you wrestling with that trans is that i find myself laughing....then recall the few times ive been in the exact same position. But it works!

On my truck, I was able to leave the exhaust alone. Good luck with the job!

Good idea about the rag, That will definitely help to keep the concrete clean!

I have to replace my flywheel on my 96 ranger and man did your video just help me out big time. Thankyou brother, this video was very clear on teaching

Good example of how to "get er done"!!!! Just kiddin great video, very helpful to city folks

Here is another tip for you when you remove your transmission without the correct jack.. If you are using just a standard jack like you are using, grab yourself a 2x6 about 12 inches long and put it on top of your jack to give your transmission a little more support.. Also if you can screw in 2 eye bolts into the side of the 2x6 and take a ratchet strap and wrap it up and over the transmission to help secure it to the 2x6 it would also help...

Man ur my hero...I got to do it on my ranger just lost the clutch...thanks for the vid!

7:13-7:17 every wrencher knows. Thanks for taking the time to video this for others to learn from.

My man, that’s what I’m talking about. Good shade tree mechanics right there.👍🏼

This is the first video i've seen you swear in. I've done a few transmissions where they landed on me as well, so I share that struggle, lol.

MAN I HAVE BEEN TRYING FOR DAYS ON GETTING THE HYDOLIC CLCH LINE OUT FROM THAT STUPIT COUPLING I WISH I WOULD HAVE FOUND THIS VIDEO FIRST COUSE YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST AFTER LOOKING AT THE VEDIO I WENT OUT SIDE DID LIKE YOU SAID ON VEDIO AND IN LESS THAT A MINET THE DAM THING CAME RIGHT OUT THANK FOR THE VEDIO BIG RUBEN

amazing job with this video man, thanks a lot for it!

Thanks Jennie! Nicely done.

@7:14 - Yup. That sounds about right. Be changing a slave cylinder this weekend, you answered all the questions I had, in the AC, that I didn't want to go figure out in the dadbern Texas heat. 👍🏼 Thanks

thanks Brandon job already done it took me about 7 hours to do it...now my 97 ranger shits like a champ...and for Jenniesgarage again M8 thanks a bunch...Ps. Jennies I'd used a tinny flat screw driver to release the fluid line from the housing I pushed kind of evenly all around it while pulling the line away...wasn't hard at all!

you are my type mechanic . Great work and thank you

Jennies Garage, Master work! Great video

Thanks for the video. On the shifter lever, just remove the big bolt and the shift arm comes off keeping the trany sealed on the top. Also drain the trany fluid before you start , makes it lighter. They recommend supporting the rear of the engine when you move the trany.

Love how you lowered it because that's just how real shit is some times bro good job for real

if you dont have a trans jack u can run rope around the trans behind the shifter and up thru the shifter hole and have someone lift from inside. it is a lot easier to manuver the trans for the reinstall. Hit it the first time and it rotated right in.

That's the way we've done it for years. "Quick and Easy". I usually put a bag over the tail of the transmission, then got both knees in place under the transmission, pulled on the tail piece and sort of rolled either left or right to get the transmission to the ground. I was wondering about how heavy the Ranger transmission was due to the bell housing being integrated on the front of it. All of the ones I've done so far, the transmission was removed from the bell housing, not the back of the engine. But now I see it's do-able. I guess aluminum makes a huge difference. Thanks for the video!

nice vid. will be trying it this weekend thanks

Ur the man. Great job on this.

Thanks for the tip I'll have to give it a try later today. It really would save a lot of time if I don't have to remove the exhaust.

This video you amazingly helpful thanks man💪👌

Glad to help out. I bet your neighbor is happy!

On the slave cylinder quick release, I highly recommend putting some electrical tape over the release to protect it from weathering. Just took mine out today to replace both slave cylinder and the pressure plate and the plastic on the release had broken off. We used a pipe cutter to cut the release off without damaging the other part.

Great video. I like how you skip a lot of the stuff that is irrelevant and just show the basics.

7:18 OW DUDE!. Great video btw.

Thank's brother much love

Great video. I will be installing a new slave cylinder soon. Ford Dealer wanted $550 including part. Thanks!

over the top of the trans mission and see the 2 bolts. Some finagling and a LOOOONG extension should be able to let you reach them. I know it seems counter intuitive, but looking forward from the rear of the trans really IS the easiest way to SEE those bolts. I used a massive extension and a swivel head socket wrench to pop them loose but a stubby socket or stubby crescent wrench will prob. do the trick just as easily if you are willing to try it the the "blind bellhousing hug" way.

I can't speak from experience, but I have been told that with the V6 you need to pull the exhaust. Soak the mounting bolts in some WD40 overnight, and then try going to work on them. If that doesn't work put some heat to them. Worst case is the grinder method. I hope you get it!

Nice work! Right now I'm trying to get a nut off that I stripped for my cross member bar. I'm just going to hand torch it off and replace the bolt later. I can't wait to see my fly wheel (hopefully not in rough shape). I only have a damn used clutch to put in it. Pray everything works well! Anyway I learned step by step by your video and is coming along nicely. BTW I have a Ford Ranger 1996 XLT and alot easier to change the clutch out compared to alot of other vehicles lol!

Awesome Video and I hope you were ok when you had the transmission on your leg

Some quick pointers for you you don't have to take the starter wires off just take the starter bolts out and leave it up in the frame the starter itself the transmission bolts take all out but one there's dowel pins and input shaft it's not going anywhere until you pull that last one out jack up the car for you can get the rear wheels to spin so you can get at that other driveline bolt

Finally got the starter off, ugg what a pain, had to use a lot of penetrating oil and a breaker bar. There was a lot of corrosion and a bit of rust on the bolts. Now I can finally loosen up the bolts on the transmission.

Thanks a lot brother

an allen key will work in a torx screw most of the time

I removed ALL the bellhousing to engine bolts but still wouldn't budge. One thing no one has ever mentioned... THE ENGINE TO BELLHOUSING BOLTS!! UGH!!! Stranded away from home. Three days under that dang Ranger in a parking lot trying to get to the clutch slave. There is a much faster and simpler remedy. Put an ad on Craig's List: Ford Ranger. Works great but needs a clutch slave installed. The slave is about $75. I'll take off $200. Best offer! Then, go buy yourself a 1998 Toyota (nothing newer) with low miles. The Toyota has an EXTERNAL clutch slave. Get your act together, Mazda!

Great video man, I had a 98 ranger, same set up. Did the same thing, but I pulled the engine too so I just yanked both in one go. But my suggestion would be to losen the motor mounts, disconnect the wires/driveshaft, and cross member from the trans, then slowly jack it on down that way you can get to all the bolts from the bottom...Make sense? Either way works, but it might save you a trip from underneath the truck haha

nice video by the way

Just finished doing mine that way. Same jack as OP. And a piece of 2x6. I was told i would have to remove exhaust. Not on mine. I did jack mine up though and set it on 2 stands. Not as skinny as OP :) 2000 v6 3.0 flex 2wd ford ranger

Veey helpful thank you God Bless

About to give this a whirl in a few days on my 2008 Ranger, first slave cylinder failed at 57k, I had one replaced 3 years ago, lasted 20k and now its shot, I'm not paying someone else to do it this time!

I know it's a little late, but I just ran into the same problem on my Mazda B2300. I climbed up there and held the breaker bar in place after tying a rope to the end of it. I had a buddy slowly pull and it came right off.

Thanks it hasn't been giving me any problems so ill probably just leave it thanks buddy

Liked and subscribed. I gotta drop my trans and replace the seals etc. The thing is leaking like a SOB. Thanks for the video

Great job!!! If anyone noticed this guy didn't even raise the truck!

I just went through this myself, if you lower the transmission and let it be supported by the engine then it will tilt the engine just enough for you to see/access them. You will have to either work "blind" by "hugging" the bell housing (Laying with feet forward towards front of truck, body under bellhousing) OR You can scoot back till your head is just a little further back than the rear of trans, and look forward towards top of bellhousing, Then you should just barely be able to look forward

that last part looked painful and messy, at least you have better lighting than I do great job!

give it a light tap with a plastic mallet or hammer and a block of wood, sometimes they get stuck together.

I guess I should have tried this outdoors where there's more light, lol. Even with a drop light it's hard to see the transmission bolts in the garage. After the first two bolts on the bottom, the next ones I see have the bolt heads facing the engine, which really sucks. I'm having a heck of a time trying to even get to those, much less break them loose. I do have a transmission jack if I ever do manage it. Wish me luck, lol.

Hahahahahah! That's pretty much how it went for every transmission I ever pulled. Backyard mechanicking at it's finest! :)

ngl the trans jack I borrowed dies almost immediately when I did my 240sx trans and watching you drop the trans was like watching play for play video of myself xD

We've done it with a 4.0 Explorer while I was in school. The only must with that is a long, or several decently long extensions, and maybe a swivel haha. You don't have to go down very far, just far enough to catch a little eye sight on the top bolts. I like bouncing idea's off people, they might know a better way to save me time so theres my idea for you to help you out one day man! Haha

I have a 98 ranger 4cyl manual that has an issue. Sometimes it shifts like a dream, othertimes it's hard to shift, sometimes needing both hands to force it in. I thought the floor mat was preventing the clutch pedal from going all the way down (and it have been) but the problems persist. It will cluck in first gear as if it is still partially engaged, sometimes it will grind and not go in or just not even get to the grinding point and it takes several tries to jam it in gear. It comes and goes.

God damn when you stated bench pressing your trans mad man

That is funny!!! Quick and easy... Looked like you dropped the Tanny on your leg!!! ahhh good stuff

FYI, if you're using a regular jack attach some tie down straps to each side of the frame, so it will catch the trans in case it falls off. Trust me you down want to catch it with your face or have the case break when it hits the concrete.

Thanks! We need it! We're trying to get those two top bolts, and its a nightmare. We dropped the crossmember so the transmission would come down some so we could get to them, and it hardly budged! Do you have any tips on that?

I have a '92 Ranger with a 3.0 V6. Cannot remove this tranny without first removing the y-pipe and the catalytic converter along with disconnecting the two O2 sensors. Ford made the O2 connector lines long enough to extend to the top and rear of the engine. Why, I have no idea. I got the Y pipe loose from the exhaust manifold but I have to cut the bolts off the catalytic conveter to continue. Nevertheless, your video provides the rest of the details I needed. Thanks, Champ!

did you use axle stands or a floor jack? It might be nice to show the first half and explain how much clearance one needs..

you dont have to take the 3 torx screws out to get the shifter off the trans.. just lossen that nut on the end of the shifter and install on the other side. and then off comes the shifter.. lots better and then you dont have to worry about makeing a mess when ya take out the trans

Did I miss removing the crossover exhaust?

That's a lot of miles! I've never done an auto. It should be similar, except that it's probably heavier, and you have to unhook the shifter differently. To get it back up there, ideally you need a transmission jack and a helper. Just jack it up to where it looks straight, and see if it slides together. If it doesn't align things a little differently and try again. With patience you'll get it. Good luck!

use a few exstention with a swivel tip and a short 13 socket wrap electrical tape around ur swivel tip so it dont bend as bad

Can you remove the transmission without unbolting the exhaust?

My 93 ford ranger 2 wheel drive got stuck in fourth gear and now its really hard to get in the first and second gear can't find 3rd gear is this a trany problem?

I am about to do this on my 97 ranger. Couple of questions first. What were the symptoms caused by slave cylinder. My truck is hard to shift when it warms up. Seems like it's 1st and 2nd but you can tell it get harder to shift as it warms up. I have read if your gonna drop the trans you should put a new clutch plate in as well? Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks.

do you have a video on how to rebuild a 3.0 transmission on a 1994 ranger. Thanks for the video.

The only thing holding me back right now from having mine off is the bolt at the top of the bell housing, a few inches from the firewall. I've put PB Blaster and that Loctite freeze shit on there, which got everything else loose. I just can't get enough leverage on my wrench to loosen the bolt at all. Any suggestions? Mine's a 96 with the 2.3, not sure if the bolt pattern would be any different.

Were the top bolts hard to get loose?

Is this the 2.3 motor I got my self a project coming my way an I'm looking for some pretty good reference videos this one seems pretty good so far

depends how it is... are the pipes in the way

I have the exact same truck. 1999 Ford Ranger 2.5l 5 speed. The pressure plate on mine doesn't seem to be releasing all the way and I am considering doing this job. Do you have any video of you putting the clutch kit on? BTW great video, almost makes me think I can tackle the job myself.

I have a 96 5spd and with a trans jack it was tough because of the shape of the case. just saying. I rebuilt it with new bearings and it works great so quite.

LOL...I'm right there with you, except in my case I didn't use a tranny jack to start with. I took out a TH 350 automatic by sliding out from under the car on my chest. I then installed a M-21 4 speed with the same method...on my chest sliding it into position. Converted a 68 Chevelle from auto to 4 speed. PITB, labor intensive and quite a few years ago. Older now and there is much more of me so it might not work out anymore. Though I do have an 83 Ranger that I am about to change a clutch in.

did you have to remove the exhaust at all ?

Would the same process be with a 1994 ranger 4.0 other than having to take the exhaust off

if u change a 1999 for ranger from a five speed to a automatic do u have to change the fly will?

I just bought the truck and the symptoms I am having is sometimes it's hard to put into gear and when I put it into neutral and come up to a stop it feels like something is releasing and pushing forward well after I put it in neutral. I'm thinking the pressure plate, or slave cylinder. Any opinions? It's never slipped or jumped out of gear on me. The clutch pedal feels normal.

How did you get the 2 very top bolts? I'm working on a '97 2.3 and I can't even get my fingers back behind the block (sitting in the engine bay), let alone any tools. Also, is removing the crossmember necessary?

how heavy was that transmission on your leg?

Did you have to do anything to the exhaust?