9 later after this video came out, (thanks to the ridiculous used car prices) there are people who has no shame like me who still drive an old taurus.....Amazon still has that gasket kit for under $20 and harborfrieght still has that puller set for under $20. Thank you the job went very smooth. 👍

Thank you FordTechMakuloco. I appreciate this video. It took a while to identify from where the coolant leak was coming. We started with the "cracked coolant expansion bottle" theory (also common on these cars). Your demo video plus other Ford/Taurus-Sable forum information was helpful in identifying this coolant leak as an issue across the fleet of 1996 - 2007 Ford Taurus 12V OHV engines. I personally completed this repair on my father-in-law's 2000 Ford Taurus 12 OHV Vulcan engine, light-duty around town retirement use with 140,000 miles (223,219 kms). The timing cover gasket coolant leak repair would have been uneconomic for a shop to undertake and the car is otherwise in good repair, with regular (every second year coolant system flushes, including heater core flush) to address the fleet-wide rust in the cooling system issue. I completed said repair by doing a line-by-line task analysis and written check-list of this video. I believe my task list had about 40 steps (plus some reverse). The repair took about 6 task hours for an intermediate DIYer. A few additional observations that could be useful to other's attempting this repair on an engine-in-vehicle, cylinder heads on engine context. It is possible to remove the timing cover and water pump as a single unit (which I did as I had replaced water pump in 2015 and only 20,000 service miles since). For the mess of fasteners on the timing cover, I also took a piece of cardboard, traced out the new T/C gasket including bolt holes and then as I removed the different bolts, nuts from the T/C cover, I simply placed the fasteners through the cardboard template and there was no guessing which went back in the proper place on reassembly. In addition to the content of this FordTechMakuloco video (i.e., cylinder heads off), it is possible to remove the power steering pump/bracket out of the way. The P/S bracket uses two (approx) 6" long studs and a 13mm head bolt. I needed to "double nut" one of the 6" studs to the block and once I did, the P/S pump cleared and could be moved towards the radiator. Overall, my experience and "realist review" is that it is a "fools errand" to try and replace only the timing cover gasket and the crank seal on an aging Taurus, so don't knowingly set yourself up for failure and plan accordingly for a project with a high-risk of "cascading scope" (i.e., plan for the oil pan gasket). I ordered the Fel-Pro "problem solver" gasket kit for this repair (Fel-Pro TCS45973) from my local NAPA Canada store, which came with the new T/C gasket, a water pump gasket, a new crank seal and one of Fel-Pro's special sleeves and red lock-tite used to fit over the original sleeve of the harmonic balancer/damper (where there was a groove from dirt, build up around the original crank seal bearing). Someone also previously did a really poor job of replacing the oil pan gasket and had mixed extensive RTV sealant with a rubber Fel-pro oil pan gasket (which, I would also later incidentally discover had been cut at the back of the oil ban housing to "cheat" the oil pan gasket replacement procedure). The entire front oil pan gasket where the timing chain cover bottom meets the oil pan gasket was an old RTV mess and the bottom of the timing cover would not seal, resulting in a significant oil leak. The project scope "cascaded" and resulted in a new timing chain gasket cover kit and a new Fel-Pro oil pan gasket, which then resulted in a broken exhaust bolt (which I will Comment about in the companion oil pan video). In summary, in 2022, if you are still working on this repair on an aging Taurus/Sable with the 3.0 OHV Vulcan engine, I would strongly encourage you to plan for a oil pan gasket too, and if your Taurus/Sable happens to be an 1996 - 2001 model with the original design oil pan, there is a nasty little surprise awaiting you in the oil pan in the form of a hard to work with metal oil pick up baffle and I will comment more on that in Comments of FordTechMakuloco's oil pan gasket change video.

Hands down the best automotive tutorial ive ever seen complete with torque specs! I was dreading doing this but now i see it aint so bad. Thanks man!

Just want to make a correction. @22:39 you mean to say torque down to 216 inch lbs, not foot lbs. Just want to say that for any newbies.

Excellent video for both this and the oil pan gasket! I'm not a pro mechanic by any means, but was able to follow this and the oil pan gasket videos without any problem. My timing chain cover had a little pitting on the rear port so I used JB Weld and smoothed it across the pits with a razor blade. Thank you!

Another comprehensive, precise repair video from FordTechMakuloco. Brother, you have saved my ass for years with your videos. I own stacks of Helms manuals for the long line of Ford Tauruses I've owned, but they don't compare to your tutorials. Into the timing chain cover I go! THANK YOU!

Fantastic video training, thank you! had never taken on a project of this degree but after watching this video twice had the confidence I could. Watched twice more, made a check list of over 60 steps you mentioned. It went flawlessly, no leaks, runs better than ever. Two things to mention-I couldn't torgue the crank dampener and pulley bolts as I learned that even with the belt on the crank moves and there was no safe way I found to wedge the crank against the frame, I bought a air impact wrench which I can use anyway and was easy. Second is if you decide to replace the thermostat while the coolant system is empty, be patient and careful when removing the 3 retaining bolts since 1 of them broke off(as did 1 when removing the water pump). Spray all bolts in advance with a rust eating spray, repeat and wait a day to disassemble if you can.

Still great relevant video six years later - thanks. I resurrected a badly leaking (losing a gallon plus while parked overnight) 2003 Mercury Sable with this fix. Was $12.50 for the gasket kit and I added the water pump since it was only about $ 30. Did not do the timing chain or gears at 106k. Note: I did not loosen or remove the power steering unit, so I was unable to remove the timing cover and the water pump together - they wouldn't fit through that space together, so I had to pull the water pump out first separately. Anyway great video to prepare me even though it took me several days with standard mostly non-power tools. I used an electric impact from HF for the Harmonic Balancer Bolt and the same wheel puller kit to remove it as used in the video.

New comment to an old vid. I would have thought that since you had everything apart, you might as well have replaced the chain? LOVE your videos. I'm a 60 year old woman who wanted to be an auto mechanic when I was 18, but back then female mechanics were unheard of. Besides my mom was adamant against it. Im a graphic designer now but I tinker on my 02 Ranger when I can. But Im getting too old to tackle something like this.

Excellent video. Clear instructions, good videography, no painful audio. Thank you!

Great video! Getting the 13/16" bolt off was not easy for me. I had an electric impact wrench that did nothing. I had a breaker bar, but not enough leverage. I went to Lowes since it right by my house and bought a 1 1/4" X 24" pipe. I slipped the pipe over the breaker bar and the bolt broke loose. I also had to place a metal file on top of the teeth and frame so it would not turn. I tried a piece of wood, but it went through it. Tomorrow, hopefully, the timing cover comes off.

Thanks for the video, especially the reassembly portion. I ended up with a stud left, when I needed a bolt, and from your video I saw my mistake (besides not taking enough pictures before I began). If you're ever looking for a new idea for a video, consider a detailed tour of the engine, showing how everything is attached.

Thank you for this video. I was driving this 1998 ford Tuarus and it looked like the leak was from the head gasket. Being a car this old and being I am a "shade tree machinic " (don't even have a shade tree, lol) I was going to send it to the junk pile. Now I can drive it a little longer. Of course it took me a day and a half to complete the repair. But this video was my inspiration.

Just done this on a 99 Sable. Time consuming but not too hard to do. I laid a piece of styrofoam on top of the engine and as i removed the timing cover bolts i stuck them in the styrofoam in the order they go back in. Made life a little easier.

If you don't take off the steering pump and bracket, don't put the water pump on the timing cover before you install it. I wasn't able to get the whole assembly past the power steering bracket and had to disassemble the water pump from the timing cover.

Do you set up donations? Your a informative ace unlike 99% of others who post garbage

Thank you Bro. The best video I have ever seen on automotive repair. Very detailed and step by step instructions being shown. Also great narration of video and good lighting of video. Just as good as 1A-Auto detailed videos. Very Professional! I just bought a used ford taurus and it started leaking coolant from that mysterious spot over the water pump. I'm betting it is the timing chain cover gasket. But i am also changing the water pump also. Thanks Again! Great Job!

this guy is the best. I just wished I lived closer to him :(

You make the best repair videos I have ever seen! Thank you!

Thanks. This was a GREAT confidence builder. I had trouble getting the harmonic balancer bolt out of the crank shaft after literally several minutes of impact driver, and was ready to just give up and trash the car. But I refuse to give up, so I got a 3 ft, 1/4 by 1.25 inch metal bar, cut it in half into two 18" bars. I aligned the lower pulley (that I had removed) to the end of one bar and drilled 3/8 holes that matched two neighboring bolt holes. Then I bolted the two bars together and drilled matching holes in the second bar. I bolted them (parallel together) to the two holes on the upper side of the harmonic balancer with the long end of the bars under the power steering pulley so the crank wouldn't move. Then I got the longest breaker bar I could find, and eventually got the bolt out. Wanting to do this job RIGHT, I've been referring to these videos (oil pan removal) many times. Now I'm just stuck trying to find replacement gasket material for the top of the lower converter housing cover. That, too, will be solved, and I will have saved a car, thanks to you. Blessings!

Thank you, Sir! I'm doing this job on my ranger and this video was VERY helpful!

Mans is a BEAST. Phenomenal work brother. 🙏🏾

Thanks for posting this! Your video gave me the confidence to tackle this repair on my 2000 Ranger. Everything went exactly as you show. You just saved me a LOT of money!! You're a real pro and the video is top notch as well.

Fantastic video! I'm facing a similar job on a Chrysler Town & Country 3.8. The Chrysler's have o-rings at the water jacket that fail. Decided to replace the timing set as well since the car has nearly 200,000 miles. I feel MUCH BETTER about performing the repair after watching your video. I have also gotten many great tips for repairing my friends' Freestyles and Taurus' from your videos. Keep up the awesome work!!

Just a helpful tip for when you remove/install the lower hose on the expansion tank. If you remove the headlight assembly you can reach through the hole and access the hose easily.

Dude thank you so much for this video, I'm starting on doing mine and the lower intake gasket you saved me some time! Jesus bless.

Thanks a lot for this instructional video! Though I bought the Haynes guide, The video helped a lot to give me more confidence. Not a hard job but it did take me three days. Mom is happy

Thank you so much for the video !! My daughter has a 03 Taurus. Oil pan and timing cover both leaking. A trustworthy mechanic told me today parts and labor would be over $ 1200 and that is to replace the water pump also since its tore down that far. After watching your video I'm going to do it myself. Thanks again !!

I just wanted to say a big thank you to you sir. and Patrick the Baptist. for the help and the instruction on this. Man ! what a pain in my neck it was. once again thank you men.

I decided this job was a little too big for me, the semi backyard mechanic. So, opted to have done by my mechanic. He decided to get a new cover to avoid some of the prep time, not sure if it saved more time than it cost for the part, but they did a decent job anyway. Great job yourself on this excellent video!

This video gave me the courage to go for this repair. Everything is back together with no leaks. Only problem is alternator is not charging the battery. The alternator tests good on two different jigs. Did I miss a ground strap when I reassembled?

One of the best info/repair videos I have watched. Thank you really helped on this job.

Thanks very much, this project took me out of my comfort zone, but with your help things went well. I only wished I'd had access to a lift so that I could've replaced the pan gasket as well. No doubt it will need to be addressed some time in the future. I'm sure I'll be referring to your video when the time comes.Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and saving me money (especially on parts) spent better elsewhere.

Great vid...really cool step by step , extremely useful , and makes the job possible for any spanner man/woman. Thanks mate, nice one

I use a sheet of cardboard and poke holes for each bolt so it is easy to reinstall them. Also use a brass brush to clean the threads on all these bolts, removes any sealer for the few that are into the water jackets and any rtv. I also replaced the crankshaft seal and chain set since I was in there. And a new water pump, new is $30.

I recently completed head gaskets on a 97. If I had it over I would have included the timing cover and pan gasket with the job. Main reason is the exhaust is loose after the heads are off. Just go underneath, pull a couple hangers and now you are wide open to remove the pan to replace the gasket.

@FordTechMakuloco, what I wondered is if it'd make any difference, be better or worse using appropriate "gasket maker sealant" as the gasket for the timing cover housing and/or water pump rather than using the paper gaskets. I haven't tried it yet but there's also, "Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker is designed primarily for use on aluminum, iron, and steel flanged mating surfaces. Suggested applications include water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans, transmission case covers, transaxle casings, and o-ring replacement."

Im planning on doing the job myself because your video is so step by step that im confident i can do it. Ive already replaced the waterpump myself but the rest i was worried about.

Thank you, did this to my sons 2001 Taurus and saved $100's not to mention taught son valuable repair lessons.

Thanks for posting this video, it looks like this is my problem. Ive been looking for the leak, its not just a little leak though, its a lot of leak, and I cant see where its coming from, but I can see its not coming from the front of the water pump, and its not coming from the heater hose, so the only thing left seems to be the timing cover.

the water pump pully I stick a long skinny screwdriver in between two bolts to hold it as I tighten or loosen them.

This was one of the more detailed repair vids I've seen on here, thanks. I just found out my timing cover is leaking, and am dreading having to do all this. Definitely be bookmarking this to watch about 10 more times while I wait for it to warm up outside. This is going to suck without air tools. ;)

good tip to take pictures and to pay attention to where the bolts and studs go, great videos

Last week my car hit a big chuckhole, now this is the issue. Thanks for helping me understand the problem.

The bottom bolts through the oil pan are 108 inch pounds. Thanks for the video, it helped me get my sons car going!

Happy Memoral day. 🇺🇲 🐾I love you guys and girls! You really know pure fun entertainment. 🥰

The Pros always make it look so easy. Thanks so much for sharing.

My 96 Ford Taurus has 722,000 Miles, original front and rear seal, original timing chain. It's still got the original CV shafts. And I could do a tranny flush on that car with all brand new fluid and not have one problem. Mine has been a trooper for me. Here soon I'm about to have to do that. Replace my timing chain before something happens

Awesome video! Complete from start to finish. I also did the timing chain and sprockets while I was in there.

Mine was leaking a tiny stream on the left. I packed the u shape area under the cyl. head with butyl calk & backed that up with epoxy putty . It's held for about 2 mos now! I used 3 dif cleaners first

In the water jacket area of the cover were you say the cover leaks is the exact area that I had my leak. it was not due to pitting because of rust. I know because mine wasn't rusted it is factory pitting in the aluminum casting! Ford sealed the pitting with sealant before assembly. I could clearly see it! THANKS for you video it was great.

man thanks for the help.the chain and gears were tight but it all went back together beautifully.no leaks.running fine.heater works.only issue ,one that was there before I started-when I rev the motor up above 3500 rpm it bogs out.same spot every time-3500rpms/??? . crank sensor? almost as if the timing isn't advanced after 3500

This video is a life saver, broke one of my 10mm water pump bot off in the hole. Change the timing cover and boon, I'm good.

This video is an awesome preview into the repair that I had to make. thank you so much for making this video. Keep it up you're doing awesome!

Thank you for this video as well! I was able to replace the cover and such using this! Very helpful and my first major repair on my own!

Nice job! You make it look so easy.

Best video I've seen for auto repair yet Bar None ! Nice job !!!

Thank you sooo much for this video...you saved me $2000....

Hello & Thanks! Very Helpful! The gasket set comes with a sleeve, and the front cover kit does not. Is it required? Thanks!

Hey mate if i could just add one small thing to this. I just did the job without completely removing the power steering assembly. And with the power steerng assembly in, the timing cover and water pump will not make it out as an assembly. theres not enough room against the frame. The water pump has to come off first if the power steering assembly is still in place. Thank you for this tut though man saved me a ton of headaches

I need an answer to this, how much play should a new timing chain have (same engine)? Asking this because the new one i bought has almost the exact same amount of play but i think the old chain is original and the car as over 200miles on it. So, if i crank by hand to get one side tight, how many milimeters of slack should the new one have? Currently have more or less 5-8mm of play.

Hugely helpful video. The only thing that got me was the bolt on the bracket underneath the power steering pump. Going back together I couldn't remember for the life of me where that one went.

Absolutely great how to video! I've been apprehensive about doing this job, but feel more confident about it now! Keep up the good work and teaching. One question....do you recommend replacing the oil pan gasket when doing this job? Or, can that be done separately at another time without effecting the timing cover leak repair?

Great video. My problem is I cant get the crankshaft pulley off. PB plaster, lots of banging with hammer. 2 days and counting. Thanks.

Listening to that impact driver with heqdphones in is no joke 😅😅

I'm not sure what year this car is, but the timing chain looked pretty good. Do you ever need to replace them on cars like this?

I know this is old but in the video, the bolts that go into water jacket through water pump need to be sealed. What do you use ? High temp teflon sealant like the white permatex stuff? These were the bolts that broke on my 55k miles 95 Ford Taurus GL wagon 3.0 Vulcan.. I want to prevent that from happening again.

So I’ve got the engine at top dead center and I’m looking at the timing chain and sprockets, the crank sprocket it at 12 o’clock the cam sprocket is not. After I remove the old chain and sprockets do I rotate the cam, with the help of the old socket clockwise or counter clockwise to align the dot at 6 o’clock. And then of course put on new parts. I noticed the sprockets are keyed and only go on one way.

I made a 3" diameter disk out of plywood to press the seal and it worked fine.

Great video its very helpful. Thank you! Did you replace your timing chain? How would I know when the timing chain needs to be replaced? Reason I'm asking is because on my car one side of the timing chain is loose and the other is still firm.

Thank you for the video!! I`ve used a couple others on the ecoboost for my 2013 f150.

Great thorough video...will this apply to 2004 dohc Taurus? Thanks!

Fantastic demo. It helped me save $500! Really appreciate it

I remember a story I read in high school....”Insert slot A and throw it away”. Nothing like changing a water pump on a 1965 390 cu inch.

216 ft/lbs LOL! You did this easy but me I would need a lot bigger wrench for that kind of torque. Finally we see you working on something grimy with broken bolts like I end up with! I thought you were the show pony for a while just getting all the newer repair work. Minnesota/Wisconsin accent? Keep up the great videos!

Thank you for the video, it was very helpful. Unfortunately I was not able to pull the cover out with the water pump attached. The PS and A/C bracket is right in the way.

Terrific video, this is going to make a very expensive repair much easier to do myself. Thanks

Great help - thanks! Love that you define socket sizes. Other than brake fluid, how do you get everything so shiny and clean? I'm an over 55 lady 1st time repairs on my car... confident after your video, but hesitate bc must do in stages and leave timing chain exposed overnight. Do you cover it with blanket? Should I worry about getting brake fluid on while cleaning old gasket?

Using this guide and so far so good. Question is, I can't seem to get the crank pulley off. I've tapped it with hammer multiple times. Does the center bolt need to be pulled off first as well?

In the above video you are using a battery operated tool to remove and tighten some bolts. It appears to be an impact tool. Would you please pass along information as to the brand name, model type, is it a impact/driver with adjustable clutch, battery voltage, 1/4 or 3/8 inch drive. Thanks in advance for the information.

On a 2007 Taurus, If I just change the front cover and leave the oil pan on. I only need to remove the two front oil pan bolts and the oil pan gasket will be fine? Then RTV in the corners ? What is the torque on the oil pan bolts.

07 taurus with that 3.0 the coolant is going straight to the exhaust system I can fill it up and 3 mins later it will start dripping out of my exhaust. I went under the car and tried shaking the exhaust system and it's full of coolant from the front all the way to the back. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

What is the crankshaft called were the timing chain is attached....the harmonic balancer shaft bolt...my threads are damaged ..is that easy to fix or replace?

I was going to try to accomplish this myself but I have limited experience working on cars. I guess I'm just going to take it to the shop.

I love your videos! I have a 1999 Taurus 3.0 OHV. I just got that leak on the timing chain cover. I am wondering about the oil pan gasket. Will I need to swap it? What is the correct one? I see a few different styles.

Hi, I do not have an impact and am doing all this with just a basic socket wrench set. I can not get the 4 bolts off the crankshaft pulley because it keeps turning. What can I do? I have it only on a jack on the ground. I first loosened the 4 bolts on the water pump pulley before ever loosening the belt and so I could get those off easily, and so would have done this for the crankshaft pulley but I’ve already pulled everything off including the belt. So now the crankshaft pulley has no tension to grab on to. What do I do? Help!

You didn't cover going over the oil pan gasket. I didn't tear mine coming off, although should I apply some rtv to the cover when I go to install?

Man this really saved me this morning 😂

2 things. Did you have to do anything at the bottom by the oil pan? If there is a rubber gasket already there then i am good? The other is how come you have a belt tentioner? Every water pump i saw to order makes me order a different stretchy belt. I got a motorcraft pump. thanks

awesome video, I have been doing this job this week your video is great and in formated helped me out alot

The four bolts holding the pulley to the balancer… are they righty- righty/lefty-loosely, or clockwise to loosen?

Great video! I was able to follow your instructions and installed new timing cover and water pump. The coolant leak stopped on the left side of the cover but now I'm seeing a leak in the right side. Could the gasket have shifted? If I give it another shot should I get a new gasket?

Not a bad video, good job.. the little black plastic block off the coil pack or fuel rail harness came off the driverside uppper intake stud I noticed you didnt't put it back on. I did that too and hooked it up to the fuel rail 8mm.. I am having the oil light come on at idle and at lights.. Its got plenty of oil. But I did check it once I noticed it and I thought It read no oil on the level stick or dipstick and I checked it again the next day and it was a quart low now I check it and I added a quart and it was a quart high.. I don't know what is going on but its running smooth and cool and I don't hear any knocking... any ideas? Maybe its been my since I have been sick or my bad eyesight. but I definitely see the oil light flashing at stop lights.

Does the water/coolant bypass the timing chain somehow, or is the chain submerged in it? Probably a Stupid question, but I'm a little confused by this thanks?

Is it possible to do all this by hand without impact/air tools? I dont have the money to take to a mechanic and would rather do my self to save money. My 03' Taurus leaks coolant and it smokes/evaporates when hitting hot pipes while driving which os embarrasing. I have to keep putting coolant in reservoir every 3 days or so. The only tool I need is the dampner pulley which I can purchase and possibly a breaker bar and bolt/thread lube. This seems pretty feasible to do by hand.

Great instructional video! However, I'm reusing my timing cover as it is not damaged, but I can't get the old seal out with my limited equipment and experience. What is your recommendation for doing this without damaging the cover?

I have problems with 2002 sable it overheating and got sludges coolant they flash out 2 time and replace water pump and thermostat still overheating and I check each cylinder compressor tester all most 130 psi up . It only has 117 k miles plus test coolant tester I pump it up to 16 psi it go down fast

Thanks again for another great video. Very thorough.

I have watch most of your videos and you do a great job. I have a funny condition on my 2005 Taurus wagon. I still really like the car so I keep it in top shape doing most of the work myself. Two years ago I decided to spend some money on it as it had 300 kms on it so I replaced ball joints, all wheel bearings, struts and rear shocks and springs (one spring was broken), all the rotors and calipers and pads. After a test ride I noticed not a squeal but a almost turbine sound from the front right wheel. Took it apart and everything looked good but it stayed there. After a month I changed the rotor, pads and caliper again and it is still there. Wheel bearing feels good but I'm baffled. Took it apart and flipped the pads and after a week or so the sound comes back. Took it to a Ford dealer, he looked at it and says everything is normal but the sound persists. Any ideas?? Thanks Bob

Thats probably my biggest issue with the Vulcan, that screwy timing cover/water pump design. I recently changed the water pump on my Ranger and may have disturbed the timing cover gasket when I did cause now it has an intermittent leak from the cover. Its not bad only does it if it sits for awhile and goes away for the day after the engine is started and ran for a min. I know its not leaking from the water pump. Im living with it for now but I know eventually i'll have to deal with it. Nice how to vid