I meant wrap not rap

Yes, that's a good idea. A full-restoration of a figure that needs a new o-ring, paint touch-ups and broken crotch/thumbs.

I don't know how alcohol reacts to model-quality plastics, you should try that on a spare piece first. Alcohol doesn't affect GI Joe plastics, so I think its safe.

Yes you are right. I thought about this also. I'v painted them with a mix of oil pain and thinner. Of course the employees of the hobby store where I go (Udisco. Amazing place. They have 2 floors and It's apparently the biggest in Canada.) will tell you not to use thinner cuz they want to sale their own but I tried many times and the result is very good. I will give a try on a small part of one of the models I have. Thanks again formbx. I very appreciate your channel.

It's ok to just have a few in the bin. I only put one with a figure that has light plastic (but it's just extra).

Thanks for watching! Reviewing the cases might make a good vlog in the future. Apparently, Philip Reed wrote a book about them :)

Keeping them in baggies and cases is fine as long as the surrounding area is moisture-free. If the comic book boxes don't seal airtight, they should be fine too.

thanks Kevin, after watching your video I got a little scared about my collection.

If moisture isn't a problem, you need to avoid excessive heat and trapping stale air. A dark room with good air flow is recommended if you can't store items inside with air conditioning.

Yes, it is fine to seal figures in Ziploc bags. Your dehumidifier is great idea!

Cool thanks kevin ther on Amazon $14 n thy rechargeable in wall outlet. amazon.com

I use a 12 lb. test/ high knot strength fishing line. It's a good compromise between thinness and enough strength to hold up most heavy GI Joe jets.

This is the same room. I was clearing out that room for repainting back then and took the opportunity to display all my Joes.

I've always seen silica gel packets included in boxed items like shoes and electronics, but didn't know what they were for. Later, I noticed dried flowers were prepared in silica gel crystals and realized they were for moisture control (keeping the flowers from turning dead brown). I buy silica gel packets in bulk from ebay now.

I'll look for it and try it out! Thanks!

Hi Kevin, Thank you for your reply. I have already tried it my self. I can say that it kind of works, but not amazingly, in my case. I applied it in some spare or older figures I had which were yellowed in different grades (0 not yellowed - 10 extremely yellowed): 1983 Snow Job: yellowed, lets say, 6 out of 10 1986 Iceberg: yellowed 2 out of 10 1987 Blizzard: yellowed 5 out of 10 1983 Airborne: yellowed 4 out 10 (tan parts) 1982 Scarlett: yellowed 5 out 10 (torso and waist) 1982 Stalker: yellowed 6 out of 10 (whole body) 1989 Stalker: yellowed 8 out of 10 So as you can see none of the figures except one, 1989 Stalker, were extremely yellowed. I spent around 5 to 10 minutes per figure rubbing them with this product, without taking their pieces apart. I had to rub with certain intensity, not much, but you kind of not notice easily if the product works in real time, so it asks you to be persistent. My opinion is that this product does not remove the yellowing (or not always). It does remove certain dark or dull layer that the figure may have, and that may give an idea that the figure is whiter. If the figure is quite or very yellow, I think no miracle will happen. I also have the impression certain plastics were more sensitive to this cleaning, like Iceberg's and Blizzard's. Stalker also got kind of a nicer tone. But I would say the yellow tone is still there. This is the changing result I got per figure: 1983 Snow Job: not happy, the figure just looks shinier but still there is still noticeable contrast between parts that were whiter than other yellowed ones. 1986 Iceberg: quite happy. The figure looks surprisingly slightly whiter. The white of the figure shines very nicely. 1987 Blizzard: this figure maybe is the one that has improved the most, it does look quite whiter. I think I would only dare to say this is a de-yellowing product with this figure, and I am still not so sure. 1983 Airborne: mmmmm... I think it just shines more, and it didn't make me happy that the rank insignia of his left arm has completely disappear... 1982 Scarlett: her torso it does have a lighter tone. Nothing impressive. 1982 Stalker: again, lighter shade. Nothing impressive 1989 Stalker: No. I am not happy, nothing improved that much at all. So, in essence, I think this product is very goof for figures that are not so yellowed. It can improve their looks in a quite nice degree and make them really look like almost new. This can be something really impressive with white G.I.Joe figures. I really have that impression now with my 1986 Iceberg, it looks beautiful. I want to remark 2 warnings: 1 - as I said with Airborne, this product may rub off some delicate paint. The most of the paint applications almost didn't suffer at all, but that rank insignia of my 1983 Airborne is completely gone. 2 - After applying the product some figures got a calcareous layer which need to be brush and washed out. My final recommendation: I do recommend to try this product, specially in more than one of your figures. You may get different results and some can be quite satisfactory, but always in not very yellowed figures. I also highly recommend to try it first in your spare figures and not in those that are for your display collection.

Thanks for the report, I will try it out as you did: on figures with various degrees of yellowing and various years of manufacture.

You should check out collector forums and look for members in the Philippines or closer countries who might know. You can also check local classified ads online or in the newspapers for collector shops near you.