Thank you very much for the kind words, Arlene. We use this container as cabin now, and everybody just loves it. I would like to build another one, this time with a toilet and sink.

Hi. This container (like many others) had a plywood floor, so I just went and put some wooden boards on the floor, and nailed the wooden planks down. In this case I used some old hardwood floor, I got it for free from a construction site...

Keep in mind the floors are treated with COMMERCIAL GRADE poisons (From whatever they have laying around in China. I.E. The cheap stuff) to repel rodents, vermin, bugs so the floor should be SEALED.

***** From info I've seen specifications call for floors to be treated when it is built.

My only advice for anyone about to start their project is to make sure they weld up any holes first. Secondly clean any rusted spots and the whole container thoroughly for loose paint and debris. Next repaint the container. The outside paint with industrial paint, military grade or the same paint they use for ships, as it does well against the elements. You also want to paint the inside. Hopefully you cleaned it spot less before paining the outside. The paint is very important especially in cold and areas with a lot of moisture and rainfall. Metal containers with a lot of cold weather and moisture will indeed SWEAT from condensation. If your container is sweating and you have already installed insulation you will run the risk of mold issues inside your new home, shelter or what have you. Note: This is why you see a lot of containers with ground clearance to keep condensation off the container. Good luck. Also never put wood blocks on dirt will support your containers indefinitely, bad idea. Reinforced concrete or steal only for long term use. GOOD LUCK!

I am really glad to hear that this helps. This was the main reason I tried to make the video, to help people and share the idea. Our container is still holding strong so far...

lisa tuhi Thanks a lot. I moved it to our camp, and people just love it. SiberianOutfitters.com

Николай Иванов Я тоже такого мнения, Николай. Но мне понадобилось 50 лет, прежде чем я понял, что для того что-бы быть счастливым не обязательно иметь кучу денег. Хотя дочка всегда мне напоминает, что плакать в мерседесе приятнее, чем на велосипеде :) Спасибо тебе за добрые слова!!!

а как было бы вам приятно если бы она вам купила мерседес НОВЫЙ ПОСЛЕДНЯЯ МОДЕЛЬ и сказала папа теперь можешь поплакать Я ЗА ВСЕ ПЛАЧУ !!!!!!

Glad I was able to help, Andrew.

+GoodOlJoe Thank you for the kind words. The only thing I would have done differently (for our cold climate here in Canada) is to take into consideration the moisture and the ventilation. Spray foaming is probably the best way to insulate such a container.

Glad I was able to help, John. We are using this container as a cabin, many people have spent good time staying inside, even when it is bitter cold outside.

Thanks! 2 days ago I finally finished the last step - built a screen door, for the summer. My kids insisted :)

Thank you! It works well for me. I moved this container a few times since then, and last time I dropped it from the trailer, it fell over, but everything stayed in place, no damage inside, and that's what I like about those containers :)

Glad it helped. Good luck with your project!

+Connie walker-carter Thank you, Connie. Happy New Year!!!

+Xmedic Barney You made me smile. My uncle feels the same way, he doesn't like cold. But I was born in Siberia and I don't mind the cold. Cannot say I enjoy it, but after the cold winter we somehow appreciate the spring and summer more, it feels so intense. Even the dog is happy when spring comes :)

Glad I was able to help. Good luck with your project!!!

+alan headrick Thanks! We have it at our camp now, and people just love it. Including all members of my family. This is the only building where I can arrive at minus 40 Celsius, fire up the stove and be warm within 15 minutes :) When it is raining outside you can barely hear it, this means the insulation is okay. Here is the website which has some of the latest pictures and a video of this container. I painted it from outside last month, too. siberianoutfitters.com/english/sibeng3.htm

Frank Fitzpatrick Thank you, Frank! It was quite easy. If I had to do it again I would definitely buy so-called econo-studs, some lumber marts sell them here in Canada. They are less expensive and a little bit shorter, they fit almost exactly inside a container, you need to cut off only about 2-3 inches. This way one can save some money, probably up to 100 bucks.

+BuenaventuraRN My pleasure. It turned out nicely, people love it, I had visitors who preferred this container to a real log cabin :)

I still like it, few weeks ago a hunter with his son were staying there for a week, outside was winter and 3 feet of snow. If I could purchase a container for a reasonable price I would build another one, this time with a sliding window, which can be opened, and can also be used as an escape, just in case...

Thansk! Glad I was able to help. We still love our container and use it all the time as a cabin.

Такую подругу еще поискать нужно!!! Это вот мне повезло :))) А так - Ой, а что воды нет???? А туалет? В КУСТАХ!!!!??? Ой, меня за шею/руку/ногу/жопу укуили!!!! :)))

Brandozabr Дак с такими подругами жизнь вообще грустная, они и в других сферах точно такие же :) Познакомились, подружили, убедился что она за тобой и в Сибирь и на каторгу - вот потом и женись :)))

Типун Вам, дядя Вова на язык! Лучше Вы к нам :)

Glad you liked it. Happy New Year!

+Fernando Zamora Thanks, Fernando. There is one thing I like especially about this project - I can move this container where I want, and as often as I want ;)

Glad I was able to help.

+Halal G Thanks! It was my first attempt to build one, but I had a very clear picture in my head of what I wanted. I am a little worried about the studs in the middle, on the ceiling, they might cave in with the time. Next time I will weld something to the top (angle iron?), and then attach the studs in the middle, too. I didn't do this because when you weld then the paint burns and there is an ugly black spot outside, but I learned that it is not a big deal, it can be sanded and then painted again. Last summer I painted the entire container from outside, and now it looks much better. Btw paint was for free, I discovered that at our recycling center people drop off paint, and you can take it for free :)

Well done. Great job! I hope everything is still working out well for you.

I don't think the wood studs over time will collapse but they will might bow/sag a little over time. Welding a bracket you could attach to each ceiling joist would help in that regard. Oh, shipping container roof is designed for 200lb man on top in middle IIRC and (2) men (IIRC- Best to check specs) towards ends. This said in high snow load areas, and in areas the container is close to TREES or anything else that might fall on it I would be inclined to NOT use wood framing but instead weld in 2 inch square tubing framing every 3-4 ft (estimated) to reinforce the Sea-Box. PS: Shipping containers are ONLY strong at the four corners posts. Roof, Walls /sides have very little strength to them.

This container serves me really well. Yesterday I went up and finally added an overhang over the window, from outside, so no rain water runds down the wall and doesn't enter around the windows frame...

Very happy to hear that it was helpful, Bryant. For my region (bitter cold and very dry winters, and hot and dry summers) it works very well.

+Petachya Erez The vapor barrier needs to be on the heated side. Putting it on the cold side will cause the condensation. You don't want the humid air from the inside to be in contact with the insulation or the cold exterior wall. Putting the vapor barrier on the inside keeps the moist interior air from getting into the insulation and from the cold outside wall. The interior air will have more moisture because of people's breath.

why is a vapor barrier even needed....they are pemiable and breathe and allow moisture escape. One big problem.....the steel walls of the shipping container DO NOT breathe and moisture can not escspe. he would probably be better off getting a dehumidifier to remove the moisture out of the container.

@@johntingle455 Excactly my conclusion.. Vapour barriers is only sensible in ongoing heated constructions. Otherwise the heated side changes with the weather conditions, an important fact even professionals tends to overlook building this sort of small houses.. I use a Meaco dd8l dehumidifier since 3 years. Even in some minus 5-8°C unheated container it keeps the otherwise high amount of condensation away.. Ca 2 litres of condensation daily, & minor heating supplied.

Vapour barrier has to be mounted close to the heated side of the construction. But only to be used in continuous heated constructions..!

TL;DR: **Condensation forms at the points of greatest temperature difference - minimize speed of temperature change with insulation. ** **Include air-gaps and multiple layers like plywood sheathing, rain screens/furring, and insulation on exterior and interior to further slow heat-exchange. ** **Eliminate "heat bridges" as much as possible by not allowing conductive materials to touch. A screw through a stud hitting the metal will be a heat-bridge. If this heat bridge is inside insulation you will get mold. ** Since the condensation will form where there is the quickest and highest temperature difference, you need some form of insulator to slow the heat-exchange, which will be on the metal. I've seen people use closed-cell foam, and this is what I'm using on my build(upstate NY), where winters get quite cold. The engineers I've come across repeat the need to slow down the heat-exchange, and eliminate conductive materials touching another, also referring to potential fasteners. If you spray foam the inside, this gives a vapor barrier as well as a higher R-value to slow heat exchange. Due to the tight fit, this also eliminates heat-transfers coming through to a great extent, given the job is performed properly. Seeing how the studs in a container-home are touching the metal, the lack of a vapor barrier here, as well as insufficient exterior insulation will result in condensation forming at the point of greatest possible heat-exchange, namely the metal. Metal is touching the wood. Wood absorbs moisture. Moisture over time makes rot, rot means gutting and rebuilding. Air gaps allowing moisture to move, and vapor-barriers to control movement, while ensuring several wall-layers to absorb and diffuse moisure is the key here. Thick exterior and interior insulation with several layers will minimize possibility for condensation to form.

+53sig Really glad that you like it. End version looks nice, I have it sitting in my camp, where we have few rustic log cabins, and people often prefer this container to a real log cabin. siberianoutfitters.com

+Wally Knorr Canadian Hunter  I have a 8x6 meter foundation made for a log cabin but it has turned out to be out of my budget and more than the original quote. I am planning on putting two 20 ft. containers at each end and joining the space by either blocks or wood. I was drawn to your video because I too will have to do most of the insulation work myself even though I am a weak female. These days it is next to impossible to get voluntary help in Ireland, even for the building of a Catholic Hermitage! I trust Saint Joseph will assist me. Thanks again for recording your work.

+53sig You know, I had the same idea, to install 2 containers few meters apart from each other, and then cover the space with wood (studs). The problem is that here (in the middle of the continent) containers cost a lot, and it would be cheaper for me to buy wood, and build the entire construction with wood. You will be fine when insulating, the job is quite easy, and youtube has nowadays lots of helpful videos. Good luck!

The only disadvantage of welding (which I personally observed) is that the paint burns, and you will have to paint again. But original paint is very special, it can withstand salty air, etc., and it would be hard to achieve the same effect later, when painting yourself.

+Lee Rider Friend of mine is planning to hire a bulldozer and dig out a big hill and then bury there 4 containers, so that only one side is open. He wants to make it his permanent living quarters, in northern region. But I have to admit that he is a bit of eccentric person ;)

Thanks! We still like it, I was showing it yesterday to a couple of tourists (we live in a remote location, northern forest), and they liked it. Everybody falls in love with it, we had hundreds of people staying there overnight during the years, I think the most appealing things are 1. the feeling of being inside a log cabin 2. the feeling of being 100% safe from all cataclysms, including fire, hail, bears, vampires ;)

martin chavarria Hi Martin. I was building and testing it in the winter, often it was below 30 outside. If the stove has a fan it heats up quickly, and it holds the temperature okay, but like with any other small buildings you will have to keep heating. The insulation works very good, in summer it stays cool during the day and warm at night. I would say it works very good, but again, a tiny room heats up quickly but also loses the temperature fast if no other heat source is present. If you stay inside and have some lights on and do some cooking, etc. then it stays warm, and a tiny electric heater (700 Watts or 1500 Watts) can keep it warm during the night.

You're welcome!

Thinking of getting one to store my toys and if the mrs throws me out, I could live in it :)

lue1975lue Mine is also 20 feet, Luke, they are cheaper and easier to transport. I am sure that in NS they are cheap, there must be a place around the harbor where they keep discontinued containers, some sort of a "cemetery" for them. This is what a guy told me once who was dealing with this stuff...

Hi! I answered this questions many times, if you don't mind please scroll through all the old comments. Basically I didn't attach the studs to the walls, they are being held by pressure, I cut them precisely and squeezed them in. I wish I could explain it better.... But since the floor is wooden I used some screws to attach the studs at least to the floor.

infocentreYT Hi Marc! I decided not to drill any holes in the container... You are right, the wood planks are only screwed with each other and held in place pressuring mutually. But I think it is okay to drill some holes. In the past I had built a movable garage once, and I used angle iron, I welded it to the walls and drilled holes in the angle iron, and then attached the studs, and I liked this way very much. Good luck with your project!

Welcome!

I had a similar project, where I built a sauna, and I used OSB sheats first, and then wood panels, this made the job much easier. But in general I don't like plywood panes inside the building, unless it is a shop or similar.

Hi. I didn't screw or attach the studs to the metal, they are indeed being held by friction. As you can see the upper (ceiling studs are laying on the vertical (side wall) studs, and rest is easy, the wall boards keep them all in place. I hope this explanation makes sense.

it makes perfect sense. thank you for the quick reply as well!

Dideric van den Berg Nothing else, Dideric, just the other 2x4 and 2 screws from each side. I decided that all the planks (and nails) will hold it in place.

+D Odle Oh, you can ignore the heater, I almost never use those in enclosed buildings, only when I have to dry up a building or to warm up the inside. It just happened that the temperature dropped below 30 Celsius, and I was eager to finish the job before Christmas, so I used it a couple of times to warm up the inside before I started to work. It was more about saving the tools, that damn cold killed my cheap drill and the angle grinder :) And I was working on something rather delicate, on a rustic log bed... During the process, when working inside, I used the electric catalytic heater, I really like them, mine is inexpensive, but comes with a blower and with a remote control. When I was done I replaced the wood stove and installed another one, and last summer we painted the container from outside and painted the doors and the window from outside, too, now it looks much nicer. It is funny how people react when they see the container, but once they see it from inside they quickly change their mind and prefer the container to a wooden log cabin. This website has some pictures, they are outdated, but it shows the new wood stove: siberianoutfitters.com/english/sibeng3.htm

Hi Javier. I would suggest you read all the comments, seems there is lots of people who know how to do it better (if they could -). I honestly don't know. Metal by itself is a barrier enough, and if (how the critics and skeptics insist) some condensation will occur it will probably land on the metal anyway, regardless where the vapour barrier is placed. But again, I am just guessing. I think it depends also on your area, temps, moisture, usage, etc. In my case I think wood is absorbing lots of moisture.

Hi Alex. I didn't attach the studs to the walls at all. If you look closely you will see that the vertical studs are just sitting tight between the floor and the ceiling. And then the horizontal studs at the ceiling are jammed in, and attached with screws. Not sure if my explanation makes sense...

+alzathoth Hi there. All containers have in upper corners outside a nice thing, an opening for ventilation, with many holes, so I decided this should suffice. But not sure...

Hi Fernando. No, I didn't drill the walls. If you check all other comments you will see my explanation, I tried to explain it the best I could.

I am looking and I don’t see the answer. Thanks.

Amy, if you read all comments you find it being mentioned many times, here is one of my old replies: if you scroll to 1 minute 50 seconds (1:50) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/itNkorVk19zGcWg.htmlm50s then you will see how I attached the planks to each other, I explained (and showed) it there. Again, I did not attach anything to the walls, I only attached each stud to the wooden floor with 2 screws, and connected the studs above, also with 2 screws each. That's all. One could weld some pieces angle iron on the walls and then drill some holes and attach the studs that way, if desired...

I didn't fasten them to the walls. In the bottom I screwed the studs to the wooden floor, and I cut them so they fit snugly. I don't need them to be attached to the wall, because once I covered the wall with boards (planks) the entire construction is solid and sturdy, and the frame cannot move. I tried to explain all this in the video, don't know how to explain it any better.

+李素蘭 I will happily use any kind of insulation, as long as it is efficient, and the costs are low :)

Hi Johnny, if you scroll through other comments you will see this question and my answers, I tried to explain it there many times. Let me know if you cannot find it.

No, I didn't use conduit. And I don't use solar or wind, I did some simple math and discovered that it would cost much more, all the batteries, inverters, etc. Guess our power here in Canada is quite cheap.

Wally Knorr Canadian Hunter OK.. So what's the secret? :)

Hi Gary. As I mentioned I just use electric power and connect a cord to the container from outside, because I move this cabin once in a while. Wiring was done in old fashioned way, the same as inside any building.

C.J. McBeard When building the container I didn't have a window and didn't want to buy one (too expensive), so I found for free 2 glass panes (of similar size) and from 4 boards I built a frame, then I cut the hole in the container wall. But now I regret this decision, if building again I would use a window which can be opened. I already got a sliding window, with a mosquito net, and will probably replace it. But you got the idea - any frame will do, then cut the glass and silicon it there, that's how I did it, too, I just didn't cut the glass and used the original size. Good luck with your project. PS: I was told that you need a vapor barrier (foil) on both sides of the insulation, or at least on the side where insulation contacts the metal wall.

Cheers for the reply. I'd probably want at least one window that could be opened to get some air through in summer and another just for light. Might keep an eye out for a second hand one in the mean time.

Yes, Bruce, that was my fear. But on the other hand there is no weight pushing it down, except the weight of fiberglass insulation. IN worst case I was going to put a couple of peeled poles as support, in the middle, this would give the cabin even a more rustic look. My main cabin has such poles, and they look very nice.

Good points. That's why I shared, so people can keep improving the design, and build better...

@@WallyKnorr looks good.

Hi Nikola! I decided not to insulate the floor, just put an additional layer of flooring (I had some used hardwood flooring, got it for free). The reason for this decision was the following - i have built many saunas and discovered that the floor in a sauna is irrelevant, it doesn't have to be warm or insulated, so I thought I will apply the same principle to my container. In summer it is warm anyway, and in winter, no matter how well insulated the floor is, we will not take off our boots when walking around. But few inches of wood is actually a decent insulation by itself. I put the container on railroad ties. I think you know that only the corners need to be put on a support, that's how the containers are designed. My cats and rabbits love the room underneath :)))

@@WallyKnorr It makes good sense, i concidered making an insulated concrete slab to put the container on, but it just seems like an awful lot of work and wasted materials. I live in a humid country so condensation is the biggest worry. Thank you, i think i will just make a block for each corner and call it a day

Yes, I agree, a slab under the entire container is exactly what you said - awful lot of work and wasted materials. Maybe a small dehumidifier, to fight the humidity? With a discharge through a hole in the floor. Or some ventilation openings on each end. I am sure Google will have some suggestions.

lucky258i Sorry, I am the wrong guy to ask. If you want just my personal opinion - I think it is not efficient from economical point of view. Till now all the projects I have seen on KZfaq are done by rich people, mostly to impress others. They buy containers cheaply, but then they spend thousands and thousands on architects and blueprints, on trades people, etc. My goal was to safe money, and to have a MOVABLE structure, so I can any time move it, sell it, put in on a lake or use as cabin on different locations. Otherwise the only gain is the ready-to-go walls when you start building, but even here it could be seen as disadvantage - you need to cut them, they will eventually rust, and the price of a container is so high that you could probably get better walls by buying studs and plywood and building by yourself. Again, it depends what your goal is, I guess, as a cabin or as movable structure, and in rugged area, this type of construction is ideal. I am in the bear country, we often get strong winds or hail, trees are falling down, and there are lots of rodents, and lots of snow on the roof in winter, that's why I decided to use a container.

Wally Knorr Canadian Hunter Thanks for the fast reply. I'm considering building a house so still contemplating which way to go.

No, Steve, I didn't notice any condensation. Maybe there is some, but I didn't look behind the walls.

Is it ok to use this insulation? I have heard that it can suffer frim condensation.

I cannot advise you, Zuzana, sorry. It worked for me so far... I think many factors will affect this, eg. the climate, humidity, how often and in what way the container will be used, etc etc In my case we have an extremely dry climate (central/western Canada), extremely long and cold winters, and I noticed that the wooden walls absorb moisture, and then when you heat up the room they release the moisture and dry out. Ventilation is probably important, too, after using the container for a couple of years I added a screen door.

Wally Knorr Canadian Hunter thanks a Lot for the reply. I will discuss it with our architect:) we are now living in a camper while looking for a plot to start. Condensation is part of our life right now :) a lot of airing and drying. But it is journey. Our kids enjoy it. We with my husband feel frustrated because the situation with COVID is making our progress slow. All the best and thanks for your videos

+fernyblue Hi. I am not a professional, I was just experimenting. Till now everything looks good, no condensation. I think it is important to mention, that my container (not sure about all other containers) has outside ventilation openings. They are located outside, in upper corners, that's how they come from the factory. After I saw them I was not worried about ventilation between the insulation and the metal outer shell. In my video on 2:50 there is a glimpse of such a ventilation, it is a sophisticated design, no rain can enter the holes, but the air can escape freely. If you type in Google "container ventilation holes" you will see what I mean. Re pressure treated lumber - I was told the vapors are poisonous and you are not supposed to use them inside a building. Unless you cover them with a coat of some sort of a sealant. But again - I am not sure, I am not a professional :)

Ok thank you for the response. Appreciate you sharing what you know.

Yes using insulation other than spray foam will allow condensation to form on the inside of the Steel by allowing the air to reach the cold steel surface. You will end up with condensation and mold inside the walls. Spray foam is the only way to airtight seal off the steel eliminating condensation.

Thanks for the compliment. Basically the vertical studs are 2 inches shorter that the container, the ones which go from floor up to the roof. Then I take the stud which goes on the very top, I temporarily hold it in place, then I take the vertical stud and hammer it in, so it sits really tight. This means there is no slack there at all. The stud on the side wall is supporting the stud on ceiling, and is pushing it up. To be on safe side I secure this connection with a couple of screws. Then I do the same procedure on the opposite side. Now my stud on top, on ceiling, is being pushed towards the ceiling by the two studs on sides. The only way they could now possibly move is to front or to back, but once I start to plank the walls this is being taken care of. I hope this explanation makes sense. When I build my next container I will try to film this part in details...

Thank you for the info. It was helpful. Yes it was, My friends bought one a 20 footer. When they movie back home. They said they are going to give it to me and I want to build a home out of it. Never been any good ones I have looked at, I looked at a lot. Helpful. Like to see more video and let us know how you like it. Good luck. Thanks.

Hi. Till now I didn't experience any. Container has ventilation openings outside, in upper corners. Inside the wood interior absorbs some moisture, if present, and wood stove dries the air, and the wood...

Hi Sheila! I used the regular insulation, from Home Depot, the kind they use for houses. Works good for me, in summer and winter. Doesn't do any miracles, but keeps the heat out in summer, and allows to stay warm in winter... I think the wood absorbs lots of moisture (when humans breath), this helps, too.

+Pasi Lindberg Hi Pasi. No, I decided to leave the floor as it was. It already had a layer of plywood, so I just went and I installed a layer of hardwood floor on top. But if someone is planning to use the building year around then I would suggest to insulate it. For some reason I thought (based on my experience with saunas I have built and used) that there is almost no heat escape through the floor, or it is minimal.

Let me try once more. Here is how the container trend started: The idea was to go to a so-called "container cemetery" and buy there for a few hundred bucks a used rusty container, then invest few hundred bucks more and make something usable out of it. But then suddenly something bad started to happen. People with no brains and with lots of money started to teach us how to purchase a new shiny container for 5-6K, then pay few thousand dollars to spray it, then invest 20-50K more to put the very best materials inside, and show us what can be done by using "just a simple shipping container". This is when I stopped watching all those videos on KZfaq. I wish I had money for a new container, and for sprayfoaming it. Then I would sprayfoam all my shacks, shops and dens, and chicken coops. Oh, wait! Would I then need all those shabby shacks and dens if I had that kind of money? You are 100% right, if you are planning to live in such a container then use sprayfoam. But then do the math and consider to buy some lumber, and build the needed structure from scratch, I bet it will be much cheaper, healthier, warmer, lighter.

I'm not disagreeing with the container trend, it has gotten out of hand. The physics behind sprayfoam is undeniable. It's not just "the thing to use" or just the best material. The steel walls creates a unique setting for condensation. I'm all for keeping something lower cost without sacrificing efficiency. If you're building a shack, chicken coop or den, you are free to use something more traditional instead of sprayfoam and get by because the properties and building envelope are different. Steel siding and roofs pose the same problems and will have the same results if not addressed. Problem is ignorant people who don't know, understand or have interest in researching will see all the fiberglass in containers and go well I will use it in mine and live in it. Basic building physics apply virtually anywhere. The containers have a few pros...price is not one. It is usually cheaper to stick build. But most won't compare fully then decide. I make these comments not just for you, but hopefully others will see and learn the right and wrong way to do things. Oh and yes...I have done it and mostly completed a build after hundreds of hours of research. containerhomewithstorage.blogspot.com/2017/12/introduction.html

Good plan! But makes it a little bit pricey, eh?

+spayderninja Good point. I should have installed one. Might do it this summer. Right now I just use an extension cord, it comes from the main breaker panel, and plugs in from outside.

+NTycingProductions Thank you for the kind words. You are right, I should have chosen the English speaking audience. Now I have a decent channel, but with a very limited number of subscribers. I indeed have some good ideas, within one year with a very limited budget I opened my own business, by purchasing and moving some buildings, by building or modifying some other buildings, etc. I did all the work myself - electrical work, plumbing, just everything. Here is the website, the end result: siberianoutfitters.com

Wally Knorr Canadian Hunter You are very welcome. I was watching some of your videos and you look like you are putting in hard work and having lots of fun too :) Congrats on your new business I wish you lots of success with it. I would think a good balance on your videos in regards to language would be appreciated for sure and gain you more subscribers to your channel. Keep up the great work, I will check out your website for sure :)

Hi! Yes, I just put a layer of old hardwood boards on top of the existing plywood floor.

No, Rodrigo, no problems so far. I had to make a couple of adjustments (overhang over the window, screen door for summer nights), but otherwise all is good, no condensation.

Hi Kerrie. No issues so far. Which video did you mean? I would have remembered any significant or insignificant issues ;-) I remember I made a second movie, where I showed the improvements which I think are absolutely necessary - overhang over the window, screen door, heat screen around the wood stove.

Hi Elhim. I always try to reuse things, and I got lucky, this floor was removed from an old monastery nearby, and I got a big pile for $20. I always try to check out places where they sell used things, eg. "habitat for humantity" (not sure if they are popular in other countries, but in Canada they are present almost in any city).

HI Lawrence. I had an accurate spreadsheet with absolutely all numbers, but cannot find it now. I think in total it was $2500 Canadian dollars. I got the container for $1700 or $1800, floor was for free (okay, I paid 20 bucks for the big pile), window was self made, so was the bed, door was salvaged from local landfill, so was the chimney pipe (it was new, but had dents, so they threw it out). I bought the fiberglass insulation, the vapor barrier (foil) and the knotty pine boards. Later I sold the stove shown in the video (lesson learned, never ever buy antique stoves if you want to use them) and got another one for about 200 bucks, an approved stove.

Ohw thanks mate

Hi. Where I live right now, in the middle of nowhere, we have power, so previous owner dug a deep well. Few miles away< where my cabin is< I dug a shallow well, 13 feet deep, water is not potable, but good for everything else. Basically in our house we have everything like in a city, and I love that after the initial investment the water is unlimited and for free. We use a lot in summer for gardening, and for the farm animals.

Thanks i was trying to come up with an idea to keep the tanks from freezing. Thanks again

I would probably just bury them underground, cheapest and safest solution. Then all you need a pump to get the water out, but you need a pump anyway, even if the tank is above the ground. I like to buy big poly tanks, they are easy to move, light, and last forever.

The frost line is at least 3 feet. I guess i could bury it but ? I guess I’ll try it. Thanks

Brandozabr Уважаю твою фантазию! Я и сам такой :) Но по ходу процесса я стараюсь сдерживаться. Короче складная кровать шконка и даже складной стол уже рассматривались. Но представь если человек платит сотни баксов... ему же хочется спать по царски. Потом люди такие твари, что если они два существа противоположного пола то первым делом попав в отель или мотель или другое снятое жильё что они делают? Правильно, ....ся! И вот для этого нужна стабильная кровать :) На окно низзя ни решётки ни ставни. Представь пьяный или помешанный или прост о шутник подойдёт и закрое двери на запор снаружи. Короче запасной противопожарный выход нужен всегда. Варваров у на сне много, елси разобьют то порыдаем и вставим новое окно, может даже получше, которое можно открыть для проветривания. А ваще я не совсем раскололся, для чего этот домик :)))) Хочу закончить и потом продать на арапа, если бы получилось то я бы на эти деньги купил крутой материал и два контейнера и сделал бы другую версию, ещё лучше. А если нет то оставлю себе, ведь делал на совесть, для себя.

Wally Knorr А что для ЭТОГО нужна царская кровать?!?!?!? :) Я не знал, у нас как-то проще все :)))) И потом они за эти деньги покупают ВПЕЧАТЛЕНИЯ! Хотя, это я может такой, простой как валенок - пофиг где, на чем, место дали и спи, все свое ношу с собой! Будет что вспомнить, домик в лесу, печка/костер, шконка... :))))))))) И поскольку мы в Канаде, совершенно не обязательно, что это будут два существа противоположного пола :)))))))))) Ставни может быть съемные сделать, нужно приделал, нет - снял и убрал от греха подальше? А домик получиля отличный!!! Придумать бы еще как его в глушь затащить, идеально было бы вертолетом , но это должно стоить безумных денег :(((

BrandozabrОлег, этот домик я делаю в основном для себя, а вот здесь у меня насчёт кроватей компромиссов нет, люблю спать по царски :)

Sceptics were warning me about condensation all the time, but I have never ever noticed anything. In Russia we call them "couch professors", they always tell you how they would have done it if they knew how to do it :) Maybe it is a combination of all factors - vents in the wall, wood absorbing moisture and then releasing when you use the woodstove. Important is also the fact that here in Saskatchewan the climate is extremely dry. On the east coats I would have never done such a thing, we had an air exchanger in our house there, without it you couldn't live a single day there. But sask is dry.