Thanks for watching.

another tip: using an air cylinder with a relieving* type regulator allows for easy adjustment of the counter-force, and a constant force regardless of cylinder volume/z-travel. It also allows for manual adjustment if you sometimes install/remove heavy attachments to the head

Thanks alot Infinity is overpriced

just got the large hf mill, what did you go with? also where did you mount the dro scales if used?

@@TheUnofficialMaker I have hurt my shoulder and I am getting ready to have my shoulder replaced will get started back when I have mended. The answer is I have not started but I will.

If you have some patience and are half-way decent with basic wiring skills, you can build one yourself. Centroid Acorn system comes with really good wiring diagrams that cover just about everything. And, I have several videos on the topic, as well.

@@FrancoCNC I've ordered the Acorn, and spoke with Teknic today. They ran a simulation based on my machine, and suggested a smaller, less expensive servo than I originally thought I would require. So I think that I'll be going that direction. Thanks for all of the great videos!

Thanks Rick, I appreciate your input. I have an HM 46 from "Machiner warehouse" Australia. A fair bit bigger than the G0463. Think I'll go with a 12Nm (1700 oz-in) for Z, and a 4.8 Nm (680 oz-in ) or 9Nm (1274 oz-in)for X, Y.

Faster speeds (feeds) is where you start to loose steps. As someone who has been down that road, based on your slow spindle (2k RPM), your feed rates are slow enough that you are operating around max torque of the motors and thus less likely to loose any steps. Stepper motor torque curves plummet after about 10 to 15% of their max speed. Like you, when spindle speed was my limiting factor, I had zero problems with lost steps, I also couldn't feed at more than about 19 to 20ipm with a 1/4 cutter at 2200rpm to keep proper chip load and with 5mm lead ball screws and direct drive from the steppers. That put the steppers at 99 to 101rpm (i.e. in their max usable torque range). I later upgraded the spindle setup to be able to get 8000rpm and at 8k, to keep proper chip load, I had to feed at a minimum of 72ipm and with direct drive system, that put the motors at about 365rpm and based on manufactures spec'd torque curve, I was down more than 50% of the rated 425oz-in. (if I'm to believe Stepperonline torque curve for the motors I was using, I was down at roughly 200oz.in at that speed) and I would loose steps. When I would adjust feeds to account for chip thinning and thus had to feed even faster (over 100ipm), not only would I loose steps but I would actually stall the motors on finish cuts while trying to keep a reasonable chip load that still gave acceptable surface finishes. Even after I upgraded to closed loop steppers, I still couldn't get the feeds I wanted for plastics that I run from time to time. Since then, I went to DMM Tech servo's and now I can rapid at 900ipm and cut aluminum all day long with finish passes at 200imp without ever missing a beat. In the end, speed is the enemy of steppers and them loosing steps, hence the reason why any and all professional level CNC machines run closed loop servo's. If they didn't, they couldn't get the feeds fast enough to match the spindle speeds they run at now a days and get the SFM for the give materials. Steppers are great if you are running low feeds but as soon as you increase spindle speeds, you have to match the feeds or you put more heat into the part and wear the tool faster because chip load reduces and the tool starts to rub rather than cut. This is actually where the seemingly better finish is coming from when running high spindle speeds and slow feeds. You are actually rubbing more than cutting and this is bad for the tool and for the part if you need to hold very tight tolerances. In aluminum for example, I rough with carbide and finish with HSS tools because HSS can and almost always is ground to a shaper edge and thus leave a nicer finish when taking really light cuts like that of finishing passes. Carbide although very touch cant be sharpened as shape without risk of blowing the cutting edge off the tool because of its brittleness and thus when taking really light cuts it rubs rather than cuts which wears it out faster and puts more heat into the tool and the part as mentioned previously.

I'm glad people still find these videos to be useful.

Sptepperonine ships with a few different carriers but DHL seems to be the least expensive to the USA. I've had a lot of product from Asia ship to the US with DHL and they usually get it here within two weeks. You bring up a good point on the ball screws - perhaps that will be the subject of an upcoming video! It sounds like you are building a really nice machine. If you need higher "router like" RPM, then you will be looking at spindles with ER style collets. Max diameter for ER 16 is 10mm so you may need to go up to an ER 20 if you need to grip anything larger than that.

Hi. I've used the Orange Y series motors/drivers and they seem to be really good. You can set the micro stepping to a high value and the motors will be very smooth and quiet. I'm sure the T series are superior (more efficient, less heat) to the Y series but depending on the application, you may never see the difference. For a DIY machine, I'd have no problems using the Y series. But, if I had an application where the stepper motor was going to run at high speeds for extended periods of time, I'd spend the extra money and get the T series.

When possible, it is more efficient to use one large power supply rather than three small ones.

Hi. I'd use NEMA 17 closed loop stepper motors for your 3D printer. They will be lighter than NEMA 23 and the closed loop drivers will provide a much higher performance than open loop motors.

A closed look motor will have some sort of encoder. In addition to the power wires for the motor, there will be other wires (smaller wires) for the encoder.

Both sizes have the same accuracy. However, if you have room to mount the larger motors, you probably won't regret having them. Bigger is better, in my opinion.

Negative. It is best to just buy the closed loop drivers/motors in the first place.

Will do!

Hi. I'm glad my video helped you. Here is the link with my affiliate code: www.omc-stepperonline.com//?tracking=5e66c8d3ae793 Thank you for helping to support my channel!

Great question. The drive will generate an alarm, stop moving and close (or open) a set of contacts that you can wire into the alarm circuit of your motion control board.

That has not been my experience. How can you have more than one phase active simultaneously?

@@FrancoCNC Depending on the control strategy. Only if you drive "full step" you have 3A. If you drive "half step", then you have some periods where both coils are on simultaneously

I think you can do it if you have the right motor. Call ClearPath and and them. This may be a good reference for you if you don't know the frequencies for an RC receiver PWM output: dronebotworkshop.com/servo-motors-with-arduino/

@@FrancoCNC thanks for getting back, I’m new in this electronics world and I’m saving to build a battle bot

Reach out to this guy: kzfaq.info/love/slfKen2hz6jJMeQgCzp5bA I think he may be able to answer some of your questions.

@@FrancoCNC ok thanks

Hi. I'm guessing you haven't calculated the shipping fees on the items that come from Asia. Once you do, you'll see shipping that is a significant part of the cost. Unless you buy one of the few products that's actually manufactured in the USA, you'll see most all of these types of items come from Asia. There are some differences in quality of the product but I find the biggest variable is the quality of the support. If can range from non-existent to pretty good. The stepperonline support is as good as it comes for products in this price range. I'm feel very comfortable using their products and I've not had any bad experiences, thus far. Their drives, motors and power supplies are just as good if not better than anything else I've used.

Correct. Steppers don't make good spindle motors.

Compared to steppers, servos maintain more torque at higher rpm.

important have only motor current and driver handle this current. if use arduino 4899 driver can max motor is only 2,5A current. but normal cnc used 3-5A current motors. minimum 425 oz about. DM556 handle max 5,6 A motor, voltage no matter but better use near max volt what driver can use, etc, DM556 max volt have 50 volt better use 45-48 volt power supply, and if motor need 3A/motor need each axis all motors calculate together, mean 3 axis need minimum 9A power supply, 4 axis need minimum 12A power.

vink, dont buy onefinity parts very owerprice, all same parts can buy other shop 4-7 x cheapen. one finity cost 3000$ about and all same parts can buy aliexpress, 1000$ and install parts together. sstupid buy kit if can do all same in home DIY.