Good idea with the hot glue in the heatshrink

Love it! Most videos don’t test the faulty sensor. That was a good, complete tutorial. Repair guy wanted $550 to swap out my Thermal sensor. DIYed it, $7 part.

Five star presentation thank you. Glad there's some beer in the door of the fridge. I need one after finding out there was no battery in my new multi meter! I don't have hot glue, so I'll use a bit of super glue.

THANKS FOR SHOWING HOW TO TEST!!!

This is a great video. Thanks for posting this. I have a different fridge but I'm inspired to keep trying to find & fix the problem.

Thanks to your i found the same thing in my NEFF fridge and replaced it. Saved me $1000+, at least today. P.S. treat your eggs separately, they are subject to murphy's law ;-).

Nicely done and great point about the soldering and the use of heatshrink - especially with adhesive!

Great video. Having same problem with my Kenmore Elite refrigerator but same concept for testing the sensor. thanks

Very good explanation. Greetings from creators from Indonesia. And always success

Great video John, very clear and concise. Keep up the good work. Mick Northern Ireland 👍🍻

Thank you John for your reply to my question.

Nice job. Wasn't aware of the Adhesive Line Heat Shrink.

very informative video. thanks a lot from the Philippines

As always John, great stuff! Thank you

Very good video. Nice clean job. Thanks.

Thanks for this excellent video!

Hi yes that helped me out quite a bit. My refrigerator was running on low speed it seemed in the back of the evaporator was always getting frozen solid. So in the morning I am going toTest those refrigerator and freezer sensors to see that they are operating properly thanks for the approval good luck with your fridge

Thanks for sharing. It helped me to fix cooling problem with my refrigerator.

Very impressive n informative

Very nice video, well explained, good use adhesive heat shrink, thank you.

Thanks. Going to try this.

Thanks for the video. An easy way to melt the ice on the evaporator coil is to put a large pot of boiling hot water (with a pot holder underneath to protect the shelf) inside and close the door. Repeat until the ice is gone. Takes about an hour but you don't have to watch the hair dryer melting the ice lol. Take care and stay safe.

Thanks I will try with my refrigerator.

Perfect DIY and explanation. mine from facing same issue (Lebenssil kollektion) but well i believe the concept will be the same. will get try once spare part arriving. Yes. Pandemic drive me more DIY staff. no choice, need surviving.

Great video. Thank you. I tested the continuity of the heating element below and it works, vacuumed all the dust and debris from the front underneath and the rear condenser unit, cleaned the fan, I replaced the computer board. My freezer won't go to 0 degrees it holds at 13 degrees and the fridge is fine at 37 degrees. Any suggestions? Should I change the temp sensor like you showed.

This is a really good video

Thanks John for a clear and well presented video. My freezer sensor has gone after 16 years so I might me lucky. How important is the heat seal because I have watched two other sensor repair and they use only a crimps to connect the wires.

Thanks man!❤

Great video

We have this exact fridge and I've fixed most issues except the ice maker so I'm hoping you can help. I'll give some backstory. I usually fix our own appliances but this came with our new home and Monogram is much more complex than traditional fridges it seems. When we moved in it worked just fine for a few months except the ice maker didn't work. The water doesn't come out of the inlet that goes into the ice tray. The water inlet for the water dispenser works fine. We decided to ignore it since we just moved in and had bigger things to worry about and just made ice using traditional trays in the freezer. But then suddenly the fridge's temperature was having strange readings where it said the fridge was 40 degrees and then the freezer was -1 or -2 degrees. I assumed coils were frozen over and checked everything but couldn't find anything wrong. For the first time I decided to call a technician that claimed to be certified for GE Monogram, but when he arrived he tried doing the basic diagnosis of checking the coils. They weren't frozen over and seemed to have no idea what was wrong. Charged me for the diagnosis and then he called someone else who he said "knows more about these fridges" and said we needed a new computer and that person would come to replace it and it would cost over $1000. This seemed ridiculous as we could buy a brand new fridge for not much more than this. I told him no thanks. I decided to take another look and cleaned out the fridge and just opened things up and checked all the parts and cleaned them. I cleaned the compressor squirrel cage in the back to remove dust and noticed some water in the overflow at the bottom and cleaned that out. Put everything back together and suddenly the fridge was working perfectly fine again and reading 0 and 37 degrees as it should and it's been working fine ever since. It's been at least 6 months or more. BUT the ice maker still doesn't work and it would be nice to figure this out. No coils seem frozen over and when you try the ice maker you can hear it working and the parts turning. The only issue is just the water inlet doesn't put any water into the tray. Do you have any suggestions on what this could be?

Cold as a gold diggers heart ctfu... good one brotha I have to reuse that!

Thanks

Great vid John. I have a GE refrigerator as well and the problem I m experiencing is its nit cooling at all. We had a power outage in the neighborhood from a Strom and when the power came on, the fridge no longer cools anymore. All fans are working, compressor turns on. It might be something electrical. Possible main board malfunction? Took apart the fridge and tested the thermistor in ice water and the highest it got was 13.25. Tested in room temp and it read 4.99- 5.03. Neither freezer nor fridge gets cold. Same manufacture fridge except my freezer at at the bottom. Help please!!

Just found your video my mini fridge has a sensor and a cover kept shutting off yet I took the cover off now it's working. Does that mean it's going out or the cover was messing with the sensor

Hello John. I have tested my thermistor and it reads 17.84 kilo ohm's. What should I test next? The fan is working but lightly. Not sure if that's the culprit of the coils freezing up. Any feedback much appreciated.

I have a hisense rb372n4ac2, same problem. Should i change the sensor nearby the evaporator like you did, or another sensor in de freezer underneath on top. There also another sensor in the fridge. The fan is turning pretty and the compressor is constantly running

OMG ☹as originally suspected I think it’s my freezer evaporator thermal sensor now! Freezer temp getting colder @ -1F yesterday. I replaced the freezer side panel thermistor behind the oval plastic grille. Temperature went even lower -13F (12hrs later). Do I need to remove the evaporator to get @the 2nd freezer temp sensor? Gerr! It’s a bear to get into the evaporator freezer section. Didn’t even see the sensor on another KZfaq video of replacing the condensate pan just under the evaporator. Can’t find a diagram of its exact location. GE Ziss480nxbss. Wondering if I can pull it out through the rubber plug (easily accesed) of wires into the evaporator compartment though the wall separating the evaporator and the compressor up top? In your video your sensor came through the back wall through a rubber plug of wires (although your sensor sat in a specific hole near the evaporator). My rubber plug of wires is easily accessed at the top compressor housing compartment. Help please please🙏🏻 need an exact location of my freezer sensor.

6:36 Can I use this same sensor in a digital temperature controller? or is it different?

My fridge ( (LG GBB60SWFZS) always freeze, a lot. After 1 week all the bottom freezes and needs to be thawed again, the heating element MEE62606001 does not turn on. After thawing, it freezes again and never thaws I measured the sensor (6500JB1001N) at room temperature was 5K ohms (5000 ohms) When completely frozen after a day, the sensor shows 9K ohms (~ 8500 ohms) where I can get my sensor (6500JB1001N) data sheet ????????? Maybe is normal for this sensor 8,5K ohms in freeze ?????? THANK YOU

Wow John, I have almost the same exact fridge PSS26MSTD. Great tutorial. My issue is the freezer builds up frost every week or two and I have to let it melt and plug fridge back in. I heard the amazon heaters are horrible so I was going to buy a GE heater. Wondering if the Amazon Thermostats and Temp sensors are decent. I guess my only concern is if I should replace all 3 parts considering I have to pay out of pocket. No help from landlord. I guess I’m going to open the freezer panel and test the Temp sensor first. Any suggestions, like if the sensor is bad, are the other 2 parts bad as well? Any ideas would be highly appreciated as I have been unplugging fridge for about 3 months because too expensive to get a repair man! They want like $600. All 3 parts from Ge are $180, but the heater alone is $105. So if I don’t have to replace heater, it would be great.

Hey John. I replaced my freezer sensor because it was faulty. Now the freezer is only managing to get to minus 11 degrees centigrade maximum (despite the setting set to minus 21 on the dial). I took the sensor out again and checked the resistance and at zero degrees water temperature, it read 28.8 kilo ohms and not as your video suggested 16.3. Would you say the replacement sensor is wrong (despite part number was WR55X10025) or even faulty? By the way, the sensor I replaced had a reading of 14.6 kilo ohms at zero degree - interesting!

where do you find the webpage with the instructions that you showed in the video? Where it tells you the average temperatures and readings for those.

Hi john. Where can we buy adhesive heat shrinker? Thanks

Does it matter which way round you connect the sensor wires?

Hello can you also include a link to the adhesive heat shrink you used ?

What was the resistance written on the wire of the old thermistor? What was the value written on the new one (at room temp 25C)? I would assume that it has to match? The old one seemed to work (a few k ohms and changed when cooled). How many thermistors are in a normal fridge (refrigerator plus freezer (LG three door)?

Are all sensors have the range or each manufacture has its own specification?

At what resistance of thermistor?,or temperature of freezer does the defrost mode start

I'm looking at a used fridge for sale and they said the issue is "the back of the freezer coils will freeze up . probably needs a new defrost temperature control button or whatever it's called". Could this be the issue? Or what could it be?

Sir what is the difference between defrost sensor and tempereture sensor...another ....what is sensor-F...is sensor-f is temepreture sensor ..plz guide ..

What is the value of the resistance Ohms.. on the thermistor before it is put into ice water?

How can we start the fridge continuously in case it takes long time to get the new sensor?

Which raytek ir gun do you use?

Link for your little soldiering iron? Please

Hi, John I snipped my thermistor aka temperature sensor aka defrost sensor...I looked up everything for Kenmore Model: 59672003011 and there’s not shit about a replacement, not even Sears could understand why it’s missing from there parts replacement, they only show thermistor cover for sale, so bizarre. Anyway a tip I read online most thermistors are the same, but I bought a whirlpool one that looks identical, is that safe to say? I was told certain black colored bottoms that are round in shape from early years are prone to fail. Mines white with black flat bottom so fingers crossed, it has lasted years before so..it’s giving no reading, so junk now. But I had to clip mine cause leads vanish behind wall, is shrink seal good enough or should I try and find where the hell these leads go too? New piece has long leads. I’m scared it’ll short. Electrical tape big no no, right? Thanks

my ge has 1 wire on the sensor

great video! very poorly designed refrigerator. mine grows mold in cavities and drawers

Defrost heater

Wait A Minute!!! Why Do You Sound Like AvE's DewClaw? Are YOu Sure An ElecChicken Didn't Mess With The Board?

wait....NO!!! you cut wires to a part ( just after you defrosted the coils with a hair dryer) without even attemping to remove the tape or whatever from the next connecting point. Yes you mention that it looks like a past repair fix that but doesn't mean you should just cut the wires!!! What if that isn't the problem??? how may people following this video has cut those wires and now need to replace that part AND the part that is broken?!?!?!??!! Why didn't you undo the tape and follow it back to the next "piece"????

Why not just replace the thermistors with new ones instead of fooling with testing?