Glad I could help!

It could have a more complex fault. If you still have problems with it after you install the repair kit, feel free to reach out to us directly via our contact email or fill out the contact form linked in the video description.

@@NicksElectronicRepair its all fixed, really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.

Nice work!

What is a 7805? What board was this?

@@NicksElectronicRepair 78XX are voltage regulators 7805 = 5 volt 7812 = 12 volt.....was a small air conditioner control board. They are sometimes on a heat sink, 3 pins, might mistake them for a transistor.

Oh interesting. Yeah I definitely have mistaken them for Transistors before instead of voltage regulators. I assume they are labeled as Q for the location ID probably right?

Originally it had a small transformer converting 120V AC to 9V DC, it fried, I got a 9 volt wall wart and bypassed the bridge rect str8 into the 7805, I goggled the IC later and discovered it was a 12 volt relay driver. DOH! it was a trash find anyway.

@@NicksElectronicRepair Hmm I never noticed what the board designation was, on stereos they usually have a row of them on a heat sink. 78XX for positive rails and 79XX for negative. LM317 are adjustable VRs you see them a lot in power supplies.

The R1 resistor burned up? I have fixed over 100 of these units, never have I encountered that. (edit, I have seen this several times it is actually common, I was thinking of a different controller board that doesn't have the R1 typical burn up) I am sorry but I don't know your level of soldering skills. When we get sent in boards for repair that have had failed repair attempts, we will often see the following types of mistakes: Sometimes people use too much solder, the solder will drip off their iron and land somewhere on the board, and bridge a few components without the person noticing. Did this perhaps happen? We also often see bridging of legs if you try reflowing 2 components near each other. Did you properly and fully put the unit back together before testing it or is it possible the 2 sides touched during your testing? Have you performed any short checks on the unit? Sometimes we do see shorted diodes, ICs, Transistors, and so on. Perhaps there is more damage to your unit. Although again I have never seen R1 burn up this is new for me. (edit, again I thought this was for a different controller board for some reason) If you want to send us pictures or get more help, it may be best to email us directly. My contact info is in the video description.

Yup I have seen some boards come in from whirlpool and they have so many cracked joints it actually seems impossible for the unit to have worked until it did given how bad some are.

I flipped the circuit breaker and it works again... (breaker was fine, not tripped)

This is the induction one correct? I have not had to repair one of these before as it is still very new and thus has not had many failures yet. But if the failure occurs again, and flipping the breaker doesn't resolve it I would recommend looking in the owners manual to factory reset it and if that till doesn't work, then reach out to us again. Would most likely need to have you send in that control panel for repair.

Yes usually it's 220 ohms. If you do replace it, make sure you resolded all the joints for all relays and pins to all wire connectors. The reason the resistor blew in the first place is because the relay had a bad joint most likely.

Yes. I did pick up on that in your video. Even if I was able to identify the resistor I needed to replace (unlikely) and replaced it successfully, I would never have known the cause of it's failure and most certainly would have just fried the new resistor. As it is, it I followed your tutorials, re-installed the circuit board and the oven is working again. Not only does my family not have money to waste unnecessarily, I don't have an appetite for filling landfills with appliances over $0.12 electrical components because the repair costs are almost as high as replacing the aged appliance. Thank you very much for your videos as well as your personal response. Your help is greatly appreciated.@@NicksElectronicRepair

Happy to help!

Here is a list of all the tools we use which you can get from amazon: Soldering Iron: amzn.to/3FQfyhG Solder: amzn.to/3qScy0d Desolder wick: amzn.to/33DAjjy Flux: amzn.to/42YWYBa FR301 Desolder pump: amzn.to/3IhTKzc

@@NicksElectronicRepair Thank you!

You are very welcome!

I would like to sponsor every appliance board video that I could with a free repair kit if I could get a plug on each one of the videos.

Please provide the part number of the control board but yes most likely it's 220 ohms.

It's quite literally the identical board that you repair in the video (You briefly show the Part Number). The part number for just the circuit board that needs repair is Electrolux P/N 3164627, but I think when paired with the board it's mounted to, the whole assembly becomes P/N 316462808, or something similar. @@NicksElectronicRepair

That's possible, we only have been fixing these for just under 1 year and I am not yet 100% familiar with all the naming conventions for the part numbers. My tech who works on these daily is much more knowledgeable on this than I am.

Yeah, you only see these types of electronics in the newer units. The very new units get a little intense. I am a big fan of the one in this video, it's the perfect balance of passive components for me haha. And also roaches are the worst. We get a few units in here and there with tons of roaches all over and it's just gross. We charge a none non-refundable cleaning fee when that happens. Yeah, I think we are going to start working on AC boards, they typically don't have too many difficult parts to fix, sometimes bad capacitors, and similar cracked joints on relays and connectors although I don't have too much experience yet with Air conditioning units.

This happens often, and when it does, either I try and acquire a parts board for cheap on eBay or other retailer, if the part is not available, I will look for a different version of the board or different brand board that have similar circuits and designe and hopefully have the part I need. I have gotten pretty creative on that one in the past. Often if it's a passive component we can find a newer version of the component with better specs higher voltage or current rating but would be compatible and still work. If none of the above works, sadly we have to call it a no fix.

What causes the burn is arcing from the cracked solder joint. What causes a crack solder joint? Different thermal expansion coefficients between the PCB the solder and the relay pins. So when the unit is on and has power going through it, everything in the area heats up. When things heat up they expand but because they are different materials they expand at different rates. When they contract as they cool down, they also do so at different rates. This contraction and expansion at different rates will cause micro-fractures to the solder joint. Over time the cracks become larger and larger to the point where there is visually a gap and power can't go through anymore. So sometimes it arcs. When that happens the joint gets very very hot very quick and will cause spikes in power draw. Hope this helps

@@NicksElectronicRepair thank you for your response. Very clear and easy to understand. Your video saved our family hundreds of dollars. We really appreciate your help.

You have to really clean the connection well, all the arcing and burning oxidizes the solder and new solder will not adhere, it may look like it does but it won't last,. I've seen joints that looked fine but the solder was actually hollow,.

Yup absolutely! That's also one of the reasons it's a good idea when ever you have a burned cracked joint to 100% remove all the old solder or at least as close to 100% as you can and put all fresh solder. I have seen people just add more new solder ontop of the old burned solder before. Not great.

It perhaps had a factor but typically a power outage doesn't cause problems. Was there perhaps a power surge just before the outage? If so then that could have caused an issue. Did any other electrical or electronics that were also plugged in at the time affected? If not then it may just be a coincidence.

Probably coincidence as my house was okay. So quick that two clocks lost time, the one on our stove was fine. Just that it burned the r1 like the other commenter. Great video I am a new subscriber now.

@@adsbadsb9488 Tree fell on my power line but everything I own is surge protected, the surge came up the DSL line, fried my gateway. I walked in my house and could smell the burnt components, as a tech you get real sensitive to that smell, ATT sent me a new one right away. Had a friend yrs ago take a lightening hit on the street light in front of his house, next day his TV, VCR, and microwave were on the curb, I loaded them up and took em home, fixed all three.

That's a good story! I feel like most power surges that affect electronics, at least that I have noticed do come in via the internet. We have repaired many TV mainboards that had the surge travel through the ethernet cable, and damage the processors.