They have models on his Ali link with larger load boards

there are versions up to 600W if you look around.

Just got one for 19 euro's...

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물론이죠.

Thanks for subbing!

I have it on my list.

There are plenty of USB loads that can do that. There are some integrated ones, but it's usually better to get a separate meter and load.

If it works the way it is claimed, it should be helpful assessment tool for ebike battery packs. I use a similar Constant Current 180W/200V tool for the same purpose. I don't need the other test options (like constant voltage) nor do I require the color display or phone/computer connectivity, so the unit I use was a bit less expensive. You may want to determine whether or not the DL24P is the "improved" version or some sort of "Premium" version. There are supposedly at least 2 versions out there, the 2nd has been reported to be an improved version, *suggesting* potential limitations or glitches with the first version, and I would want to be certain to obtain the improved version if such exists. CAUTION: Before actually using any of these types of units, verify the heatsink mounting system is working properly and isn't loose or even broken. One bad thing I've noticed about most of the versions of this type of tool I've had the opportunity to examine, is that the heatsink mounting system, a critical part of the unit, was held down on the printed circuit board by 4 simple plastic pins. Even working perfectly, these pins can allow an almost 1mm up and down motion of the heatsink relative to the MOSFET just because of poor design. This motion breaks the thermal compound bond and DRASTICALLY decreases the functionality of the heatsink. This can then cause the MOSFET to burn out at any time, even when testing relatively low-current loads. The MOSFET specification REQUIRES a tight fit to the heatsink even with low watts dissipation requirements. Some of the securing plastic pins were even broken during during shipping, even to the point where the heatsink was secured by just 1 pin and flopping around on the printed circuit board...completely detached from the MOSFET. I replaced the pins and secured the heatsinks with non-conductive bolts to assure a secure and snug fit to the MOSFET on a number of these types of analyzers/testers. In some cases, the MOSFET had to be replaced before the heatsink attachment plastic pins were replaced with the bolts.

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if a USB has the PD feature and your device connects, it will automatically turned on. you don't need to do it.

I have shown all features. this is just a meter.

No. There so software or firmware limitations which we can’t access even you change the mosfet or shunt resistor.

@@WattHour not sure how to show you but there is on DL24P settings under V5.1 version of the software

I have not left any features out and don’t remember. So watch the video fully yo see if I have shown it.

I am not sure about your powersupply or settings. There must be something wrong. your powersupply may not have enought power.

@@WattHour No actually the case is opposite. Even I try to draw 0.3 A it is wrong in eload screen. My power supply can supply 5A. I put a calibrated ammeter between power supply and eload. The ammeter and the power source say exact same current value but the current value on the load screen is higher.

If the voltage is within the range of this tester for you can.

Thank you for replying, i appreciate it. The max CR2032 can give is 3.3V. I want to pass constant current and measure how long it takes to reach the cut off voltage. So that i can guess lifetime of my battery operated beacon.

​​@@satvikkumarpatel1129 - this is WAY too big for a CR2032. Just buy a small $5 USB load and a decent USB tester that has an external power supply terminal. You need the external power because most testers won't work on 3V. Also the tester will draw too much power and skew your results. To be truthful, since there is so little power in a CR2032, you are probably best to just load it with a resistor and measure using a multimeter.

Hi, "Canada and battery." ?

powerbank has its own internet programction. I assme you have a power bank with USB output which is 5V. so set the voltage to 4.5V and before it reacheds to 4.5V, your power bank will disconnect it .

selam, gördüğünüz tüm veriler sadece onları gördüğünüzde mevcuttur. ekranı kapattığınızda kaybolurlar.

Hi, I don't have it in hand because it is given away. But I explained all features. if I did not show, then it is not possible.

You can't change the mAh to Ah manually, however you can divide by 1000, right? Once it exceeds 80000 mAh it automatically changes to 80 Ah... Or something like that, just read other comments here.

I don't remember if I have shown in the video to add or subtract value from the voltage or current, then it does not have calibration option.

Everything is in the resource page . The link is below the video . For every video we have a page on our website. Or visit our website.

Mine changes from mah to ah after it gets above about 5000mah. Im curently testing a 250ah lfp

Thanks Mike for your reply. I ended up buying the DL24M few days later because even the on-line sellers could not answer my question. The DL24M I found has 6 digits on the ah display.

Sorry it's Mark.

@@erichenares6172 i just realised it was on my phone via BT it shows ah, the display shows mah, im at 80400mah and counting as of right now. Ill see what happends in an hour or so. Running 10 amp at about 13v. Been going for 8h. Edit. Just passed 99999 mah, and it changed to 00100ah on my 5 digit display.

Thanks for the update Mark. It's good news for that model.

Hi, yes I saw it . we moved the site to another server and saw the error. check it now. it should work. thanks

No. I would have shown it. I have not skipped any feature of this module.

You can save the data to an XLS file in the PC software. Note it is actually in CSV format so you need to change the file extension from XLS to CSV after you save.

@@WattHourare you able to also review the dl24ew model thanks

I have shown all specifications and even shown when setting the values you will see the smallest value. I don’t remember the numbers. Please watch

For such a low current, just buy one of the cheap USB loads and pass through a USB tester. The low value sense resistor in this will not allowed good a accuracy at small power levels.

please check again. it was not working, I just fixed it. Please let me know if there is an issue.

the capacity does does not matter. it can do even 1000Ah but it will take longer. You can discharger maximum of 180W. Now I don't remember if it works with 48V or not. so please watch as I have explained it fully.

@@WattHour thanks.. I did not catch the max voltage rating and on aliexpress did not mention too

for setting any value, the minimum is set with digit you can select. if you select a smallest value in settings, that is your minimum. I don't have the device but I am sure I've shown it how to set the current. see how much digits after decimal point is shown.

@@WattHour ok,but the minimun current is 50ma or 100ma or 200ma?

Whoever lowest it can show.

I don’t know that’s why I am r referring you to the video.

You could also just check the specs or user manual 🙄

Hi, sorry. this was giveaway and someone won it and I ship it to the US.

Do you still need this info? I have a DL24 bare PCB and can check for you.

@@johncoops6897 no thx, have resolved

Did you get it from the resource page link from the description

All videos have description below the video and I always put links to purchase there.

Hello, you measure the capacity. If you the capacity for new battery is about 95% or higher it is good. for older batteries, it might be a little less .

Hi, it is always about voltage if you know the power. the pwoer is 180W and I mentioned what is the maximum voltage but for sure 12V is very low and it will not burn. Just watch and when I mention input voltage, that's what this device can accpet.

@@WattHour thanks sir.

Not sure as I gave away this meter. But there should be Bluetooth antenna, if it bothers you, then just cut the antenna path on the pCB. but you won't be able to to fully turn it off as even without antenna it might work for 2 to 3 meters.

No worries. when you click the color changes and you click again you know if it changed back. look at the Like color and you know what you have selected. thanks.

@@WattHour ok... yes, i had already clicked "off" the dislike, and after your comment, i just verified the 'like' was activated. thanks again!

No and Yes. No because it is inside phone. Yes if you remove the battery from the phone and test it.

In the 44 minutes video it is nothing. Have you subscribed? Your subscription is stamp of approval on my channel and the video will be show to other and it will help me. Thanks

And by the way this video took me a week to make.

@@WattHour My mistake that I want to make known, the word "distrustful" is completely wrong, I mean to says, distracting. My apologies.

@@WattHour Yes - I apologized and made the correction for the mistake of writing "distrustful," and yes, I subscribed.

@@WattHour My commendations and with much gratitude for your work. - Again, we can do without the nagging "Subscribe" popups.

Yes . I need the app is just not user friendly.

You just connect the solar panel to the input of the Load. With current set to zero, the open voltage will be shown. As you wind on more amps, the voltage will drop accordingly. Your task is to find the point where the wattage is highest, which you can do by watching the screen. It really is that simple. The added info in this video is about monitoring the pass-thru power between a solar panel and battery bank, which is probably not what you need to test initially.

not tot forget that the video was uploaded on 23......

Hi, I am making such videos God willing after the new year in a about 2 weeks.

@@WattHour ok tag me once you get one. Thanks.

You simply need the data sheet of the battery cells. That will give you the rated capacity as well as the cutoff voltage that it's rated at. For LiFePO4 you probably only want to go down to 2.6V per cell. With Lipo and Li-ion then 3.0V is most common. It really depends on what your BMS is set to, since in real life that is the maximum that you can draw down to. So, fully discharge the pack until it cuts off, then check what the voltage is. Note that the pack voltage will bounce back up after it disconnects, so measure immediately with the original device connected.