Whew! Longest car project video yet. This was supposed to be a quick and easy edit but it quickly got out of hand, which is why after dozens of hours, three renders, and two upload attempts it is going live on a Sunday. I came across a lot of info that wasn't always easy to source in my research for this project, and I wanted to include as much of it as possible. There are some extra details to note: There are different designs of limited slip differential carriers, we are only really talking about the function of flat clutch disc types in this video. The Auburn that we install is an old GM factory unit to the best of my knowledge, which still uses flat friction discs but a lot of their newer carriers use cones. I'm calling this "on a budget" even though the differential cover was unnecessary and relatively pricey (~$130), but that is not the focal point so I don't feel that it is a false claim. We considered going with an automatic locker but this Auburn showed up on eBay and seemed like a relatively inexpensive way to get a name-brand LSD that might have slightly better street manners. Let us know what you think about the video! Too long? Too much extra information? Too much time spent on little things like the process (and failures) we went through trying to torque the ring gear bolts? Feedback is appreciated! Thanks for watching, hope you enjoy the video!

“Just a touch of anti-seize” Is this character development?

Most important quote of this channel “so we used this part from a ball joint press kit”

Did anyone else notice that he sat the bearings on an old MacBook?

Move to the concrete floor when hammering things. You'd be amazed at how much energy is lost to a bouncy workbench.

The still images with highlights were a great addition and made this so much more viewer-friendly. So many channels are just people flailing around trying to describe what they’re talking about with hand movements. Your way is so much more logical and easy to follow. ✌🏼

The amount of detail is appreciated. Keep on with the long videos!

I love how the heat gun says Drill Master. You should replace the D with a G.

God, I'm in love with this S10. Every little thing y'all do to it just makes it better, faster, tougher, and it's been a trooper the entire time you've owned it. This truck's gonna be a great one, I'm so glad y'all keep putting so much work and love into it

This is one of my favorite series. But the firebird series is also really good. I'm looking forward to that bigger engine! 😏

Thank you for helping get us through this social distancing.🤗🤗💪

Excellent video. Thank you. I do have a few suggestions for other viewers. If you plan to reuse your ring and pinion gear, measure your backlash prior to disassembly to make sure you restore it to the same position. Also measure backlash in several locations around the ring gear to make sure it is the same (within a .002" tolerance). This will make sure you have the ring gear fully seated against the carrier and you don't have a burr or debris between the two. Also red loctite is the standard for ring gear bolts.

I really appreciate that you went through the shimming process so clearly... the other install videos I've watched have had some miraculous luck with reusing the factory shim setup and seeing the adjustment process was really valuable. Thanks for the video and good luck with the truck!

You have no idea how much I look forward to watching these vids. Gonna have to make a quarantine car mod list to get some shit done I've been avoiding on my 4runner!

i just watched all the vids so far. i first did one of these projects in 1973 to a 72 ford courier pick up with a 289/c4 in an apt complex parking lot. i have done many since. when your old and gray you will always remember this truck and the things you learned about how to adapt and over come

It was really cool to see the whole process step by step and get a better understanding on how differentials work. Now get that reverse light fixed!

this is my fav project of yours, good to see it again.

I have owned about eight jimmys or blazers over the years starting with an 88 an 89 and then another 88 and I have done virtually every thing except the V8 swap over the years with lots of repeats. You brought back a lot of memories of repairs. Made mostly on a shoestring budget. In those days I had to rely on friends, family and a fix your chevy book for info as the internet was just getting started LOL Thanks for the memories as Bob Hope used to sing.

Mate, your videos are way better than any TV car show. And I love all the Easter eggs!!!

I'm not sure if you read old comments, but just wanted to say i thought this series was bloody brilliant and i dont even drive!, i didnt understand half of what you were talking about but still found it compelling viewing and went through all 20 episodes, i started watching your pinto videos and when the first episode finished i went to your back catalogue....great videos thank you.

THANK YOU for posting this! I don’t know if I would have had the guts to try. Just upgraded my ‘88 Blazer to a Posi unit and replaced the pinion/axle bearings and all seals. You rock!!!

yay! happy to finally see an update on the Blazer. Hopefully you can fix the front end of it and making it look better soon. Plus it definitely needs a bullbar and some period correct fog lights.

I love these little trucks, in my area I see soooooo many of these still running and driving. Now I have to see about getting a limited slip for mine. Great video, thank you.

I have an 83 el camino with a open GM 10 bolt 7.5 differential and I've been planning to have the gears welded to have a posi for basically cheap, but after seeing this video I have the confidence of rebuilding it myself doing it the right way with better driveability when making turns than having wheels hops with a welded diff. Great video and stay safe out there.

A quick tip for ring gear removal is that rather than using a prybar around the edge (which is tricky and time consuming) you can use a punch or drift. Find one that's a decent size, but fits within the ring gear bolt holes without interfering with the threads, and since those bolt holes are blind (obviously), you can just take a hammer and drive it off in a quick, criss-cross pattern. (Had to rebuild the 8.8 in the Fox a few times ;-D )

Thanks for the long video! I needed something like this to help my boredom! 👍(stay safe!)

Your videos are amazing. Love this truck. Both firebirds. Keep the awesome stuff coming.

Nothing like seeing an upload from Fuzzy Dice Projects when you have a day off!

What an awesome build!! Way to go. It was cool to see you rebuild a junk vehicle into the monster it became.

Hey Brother I just want to thank you and your friend for making cool videos like this

Good catch on the torque wrench. I'm not sure I would've thought of that either before giving it a try. Now I'll remember this and be sure to start on top of it.

Ball joint press kit worth its weight in gold for all the different times it has been used.

When I changed my rear diff oil on my ZR2. I used a paper gasket but, used a paper thin layer of grey RTV as extra insurance just to fill in any imperfections.

Huge upgrade! Those 4wd digs look sweet!

Yes! I've been waiting forever for this! I actually just bought one of these last month and have been having issues myself with it. That aside, I've wanted to do the same thibf you've done with mine (350 V8 swap). This series is a big help.

Putting the diff in the freezer and heating the bearings was genius. This has video has given me the confidence to attempt this on my own car. My Crown Vic has a Ford 8.8 which isn’t much different at all. One wheel peel isn’t the best for snowy conditions…and getting stuck on a flat driveway cause one tire is on ice is embarrassing.

This channel has taught me the most important tool is ball joint press kit and mallet. If you need to hit something in and don't have a big enough socket? Ball joint press kit parts work wonders *apparently*

im so happy your still going on this working on mine

Seal replacements are always so satisfying >:0

Left hand thread is the devils work Thanks for sharing your LSD install.

As always, finished at max clearance lol, trans x works great. Lol! Well the blazer isn't knockin yet so kickass.

Changed the shocks too at the same time. Smart.

Great video glad you guys solved that one tire fire

Some backspaced rims and some Meats would make that unit bog DEEP now that you threw a limited slip in lol Great video man, keep up good the work!

Cool enjoyable video thanks guys. Reminds me of adding lsd to my old towncar where unfortunately they decided to leave off the locktite on the ring bolts. Telling me after one shot through the cover it should've been ok. Since it was just a street non sport car.

I've got an 85 s10 blazer 4x4 with a goodwrench 350 in it. Pulled the blown up t4 out and replaced with a 5lm60 5 speed out of a 1990 s10. Really is a joy to drive. Now I need a limited slip!

that's some good work there ! well done

I've got that same torque wrench. Glad you figured this out for me before I did something stupid.

Im gonna be that guy and say you’re supposed to torque the lugs on the ground 🙂 love the vids and dont really thinn it makes a difference

No shop press? Swing press to the rescue. Love the longer video.

Keep up the good work. You are going to have to step up your video's. We need more good videos to watch as the world goes crazy. 😆 thanks

These differentials usually have the fill plug on the inside high up. I think that differential cover fill was designed with that height in mind as it’s close to that.

Great to have a friend that can lift the rear up

Perfect! Now I know exactly how to put a posi track diff in my '92 S10 pickup!

Thanks for the great videos!

Very true story! I used to have a 2000 S10 with all the performance bells and whistles BUT a posi... Yeah I got "stuck" on a thin layer of ice on pavement... Yeah.... Fwiw, those wheel bearings make excellent wrist rocket ammunition! A friends dad was a mechanic and those things were in mountains in his dads shop! So... Yeah...

Awesome video and very descriptive. I have a 1988 s10 sport that I want to upgrade. Thanks for all the info.

Both tires spinning, throwing dirt, and fishtailing - now you have a truck!

Awesome video

Great content man! Damn.

Great work!

*Breath in* _Perfection_

Sweet been waiting awhile

Just came back to this video because its one of my favorites! I absolutely love your the content and style of your videos.. Have you considered doing a solid axle swap on the front? Seems very DIY-able from what I've seen.

holy shit, that guy just picked up the backend of the blazer like it was normal.

it was a good show thank

Whenever you were going to black screen I wasn’t giving your puppy dog eyes I watch car stuff as I go to sleep

Awesome video!

Great video!

Never whole ass one thing when you can half ass everything. -Fussy Dice. bahahaha. Just bugging. Nothing but love for the Channel.

Good upgrade! My truck has one, came stock with it's Z71 package. To test the clutches, use a torque wrench on the wheels, like you tightened them, and should keep 80 ft. lbs. with your torque wrench, for checking condition of clutches. Real easy to blow the clutches.

great video as always :)

Solid axle swap

This channel just made my week man. Keep it up.

Oh, new Fuzzy Dice video. 43 minutes... I need popcorn.

I mean this as a compliment but very few KZfaqrs can produce a 40 min video that I watch all of very interesting to see how to do this

Oh man! Left hand thread and the torque wrench only working in one direction! That hit me like a sack of mayonnaise! Definitely will file that one away in the garage faqs. It takes a while working with nuts and bolts to get to the point where you know by feel how stuff "should" be. When something feels wrong, stop. I've saved myself countless hours and hundreds of dollars just by stopping and doing a sanity check.

Lube locker diff sealer works very well and you can reuse them

Street burnouts next !! I'd get the 92S10 front end for it with the one piece grill and a new front fender .

I had a 98 ZR2 blazer. The posi and bravada axle swap helped alot. But cheap 31x10.5 M&T tires made it a BEAST. The increased tire clearance and 3.73s paired well with the 31s. Thinking your 3.08 and a 30 inch M&T would be equally capable.

I believe the 8.5/8.6 rearends available in the S10 from 1995 up until 2004 were all equipped with 30 spline axles.

Love that truck

09:40 The main weakness with the 7.5/7.625" rear end is the pinion gear on 3.73 and lower ratios, is a baby's fist, where 3.42 and taller gears are must bigger and far less prone to the teeth being striped off under heavy load. That cover may help the smaller 3.73/4.11 pinions survive a big power input as anything that minimizes gears moving away from each other on that little rearend is a good thing.

It might not look like much, but it sure does sound good.

Curious about that diff. I thought all of the Auburn limited slip diffs were the cone type that are not rebuildable. Anyway great content. Thanks for making these videos. I really enjoy watching your projects evolve.

I got an Eaton-style posi for my 94 Suburban. I just used a couple of cheap exhaust pipe adapters and a BFH to press the bearings on. Got the job done, but it made my right arm really sad and floppy.

great video and build- i think bout installing an auborn posi instead of my broken g80 locker ;-)

Always look forward to your vids. You have any plans to fix the front end on the blazer?

My dodge dakota suffers from a similar issue of a light rear end and traction issues in 2wd. New a/t tires helped tremendously, but when you're given a $700 parts truck with everything you would need for a 5 speed swap, a differential upgrade, and 4 wheel disc brakes, including larger discs for the front, you very quickly run out of reasons to NOT install all these upgraded parts. The parts vehicle has an electronically activated transfer case, which is a big no-no. Currently, the plan is to use my current lever activated transfer case, extend the front driveshaft since the donor vehicle's was completely destroyed, likely due to a faulty 4wd switch, use the new rear driveshaft, since it matches up to the new rear axle, and trade out any input/output shafts between the two differentials to make the old case line up with the new splines. Since the differential is out of the vehicle, it makes no sense to do anything other than install a limited slip, and take a close look all the seals. As it seems to be slightly rusty, and the factory paint coating stuff is flaking off all over, we're also going to be refinishing the entire axle, likely using a bunch of high temp enamel paint to make it look sharp, instead of crusty. With the new, larger disc brakes, I am unable to use my factory 15" rims. One of the rims from the donor vehicle was seized to the axle hub, and decided it would be a better idea to bend than just release from the hub surface after some persuasion with a sledgehammer, so I'm also forced into getting new rims. With the factory body mounts, there isn't a whole lot of room to work around the transmission, and as I'll have to modify my existing crankshaft position sensor, it only makes sense to move the cab out of the way to do so. Fully removing the cab is a lot of work, and a lot of wire harness pulling, so we can't be doing that. However, the aftermarket is a wonderful place, and has 3" body mount spacers available to give you that little bit extra clearance to install this new driveline assembly. Luckily, the factory 16" rims from the donor vehicle seem to hold air, and have 4 decent enough tires to do some light testing, to insure everything is working properly. Unluckily, one of these tires has steel bands showing, and all 4 are rather weatherchecked. They're also a smaller size than my currently installed tires, which means my speedo would be off. Which really just means that these will have to be used for a giant stress test of the new brakes, the limited slip differential, and the new clutch. With prior mentioned condition of these tires, it doesn't make a whole lot of sense to go too far from home. To make a long story short, a brake stand will be necessary to insure all new parts are functioning properly.

Ya got your posi!

yep, diff lock and awd really make a big difference in offroad

I was making love in The woods and my blazer got stuck on groundhog mounds so the police caught us!! Damn groundhogs chucking my wood!!!

Is there a reason that you used an old macbook as a holder for the bearings as you heated them up? I might use mine for that aswell if its a good way

Great work and a really good upgrade. Are you planning to fix the body work on the poor truck?

Yay, motoring meditation

Those clutch type posi diffs are much better then those gov-loc ones I see in Z-71s

One comment of concern. It is not advisable to leave the axles hanging in the case (it can deform the bottom of the seal) because of the weight. It might not be as critical with a new deal, but it will most certainly wreck an old one ( ask me how I know) after all your hard work to find leaking diff fluid leaking out the back of your drums . So in my opinion it's always best practice to leave the axles out of the housing. Keep up the great, informative content...Cheers!

the Fuzzy Dice ( Rally Chevy blazer ) Dakar or Baja build. would love to see that!

I hope the next update on this build is a fender, bumper, and grill :)

Just a tips if you want to get out the axle seal just use the axle as a lever to get them out