Thanks for watching and sharing! On this particular G&L, I would also need wider nut slots with a 110 heavy set. The 105s were ok in general.

Thanks so much for watching and for your kind words!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! The same principles will apply to flats…but unfortunately the gauge options for short scale flats are even more limited. I ‘think’ Pino Palladino used Labella flatwounds on his D standard- tuned Precision bass (D’Angelo era).

Thanks so much for watching! Imagine what a 110 set would do!

@@jonathanwong458music Oh ya that's what I'm using right now, DDT 110's. They sounded good! BUT...... lasted about a week and they're dead... 😂😂😂 I'm going to try EB Cobalt Flats 110 next, though I don't know if they come in short scale.

@@cici4753 Looking on the Ernie Ball website, the Cobalt flats only come in 105-45 for short scale. Depending on the type of tuners you, you might be able to put long scale flats on (the larger the tuner post, the better) but you will risk string breakage on stiffer and larger flatwounds like a 110. I've tried Cobalt rounds on a few basses. They sound really cool with overdrive and fuzz. There's something the high mids that lends itself well to being driven. But clean, I found something hollow in the rest of the mids. Not sure why. Best of luck finding the right strings! ca.ernieball.com/guitar-strings/bass-strings/slinky-cobalt-flatwound-electric-bass-strings/slinky-cobalt-flatwound-short-scale-electric-bass-strings

String gauge is a very personal choice. There are a few videos from others talking about how the gauge affects the tone (which is all true) but I think the more important factor that is near impossible to accurately portray across KZfaq is how YOUR fingers react to the string and the resultant tone. I have experimented endlessly with gauges and string companies and there is always a compromise in the end. For instance, I find heavier strings in general to rob the tone of complexity, overtones and richness, but in exchange, you get a bigger fundamental and a boomier low end. In contrast, thinner gauge sets can sound anemic and thin on the bottom, but you get this more 'wirey' type tone that some players absolutely loathe! The thing is, I can hand the same bass to a buddy and it can sound like a whole different instrument! Fingers and skin absolutely affects the tone! The expensive answer (unfortunately) is to experiment to find what feels best first. I say that because if the string does't feel nice under YOUR fingers, it matters less what it sounds like, because you won't like playing it. And if you don't like how it feels, it will mentally and psychologically really affect your playing in the end. The gauge will affect certain physics and string orbit, especially for downtuning, but you have to like how it feels first. In terms of tuning and versatility, it's always easier to have a down-tuned bass you can play up on, instead of a regular tuned bass that you constantly have to tune down. Having said that, some songs need an open E to play 'properly'! As an educator, I'll say it's important to learn E standard tuning. Not that it's right or wrong, it's just more common and easier to play with other people. But I think you need to assess what your needs and goals are. If you mostly play lower tuned music, then down-tune away! Eb standard is such an awesome tuning, but my brain never got used to it. I like the tonality, but I just can't relax my brain with it....but that's my brain's shortcoming!

That’s a great question! There will be some variation depending on who at the factory did the nut slotting, but on this particular G&L, it accepted the 105 set without issue but it likely will not accept a 110 set - would need the nut slots widened. Thanks for watching and asking!