Thanks so much!

Thanks so much! Looking forward to seeing what you do with your space and collection! The U25Bs are decent engines and will give you years of good runs!

@@RockwallCanyonRR Glad to hear good about the U25B's. Thank you 👍

Thanks! Yes, 16ft dia is my recommendation for longer cars and body mounted couplers. I've had plenty of years though when 5ft diameter was as big as I could do.

Thanks so much! We have a pretty strong garden railway club here in southeastern NH, and we would be happy to see it grow! Best of luck with your planning.

Have you done the 44 tonner truck specifically? I know this typically works most USA motor blocks, but it's been documented that you would have to modify the plastic housing on 44t to make room for the sleeves.....otherwise the gears no longer mesh.

Yes I have done it. Just make sure the bushing is square not diamond when reinstalling the axle and it works just fine

Thank you! I think the big changes will come in about 2 weeks!

Thank you so much!

Thanks Sean! Yes I also like the Bachmann switch stand as well. Most of my switches use the LGB manual spring box. The railroad has many junior engineers, so having spring switches helps to cut down on major derailments. Engines and heavy cars will always spring through, but occasionally freight cars will still slip off if a switch is misaligned.

Thanks for the kind words Todd! If you're using sectional curved track you can loosen the ties by removing the underside screws on one rail to allow the rails to flex. Place on a flat surface and hand bend it either larger or smaller as needed. It will cause one rail to run a little long, but you can trim that with a dremel cut off wheel or hack saw. Otherwise you can use long flex track sections and a rail bender to produce the parallel curve. Flex track is often in short supply, so I do a little of both.

Thank you! I believe that section is pushing 6% in a few spots. Since its technically off the mainline, I decided to have a little fun with it. In this case, I was more concerned about achieving the 15in clearance at the overpass than the grade it required to get there. The end result is an visually amusing route, but definitely one with operating restrictions.

Hi Dave, So glad you like my videos! Yes, I've been floating G scale on crushed stone for many years. I find the best way to proceed is to start with a heavy woven "weed barrier." Much like on gravel pathways, this allows the base to be more consistent in freeze and thaw conditions. I then like to use 1-1/2in crushed stone to build up the roadbed. Next comes the track and some 1/2in stone which gets pressed under and around the ties. This is enough to work as-is, but I also like to go back and add a layer of 3/8in stone once everything has settled. This is more for looks than function as the smaller rock is closer to scale. In most cases this enough to keep the tracks together. However, in sunny spots, where the track moves more, I like to add 1 rail clamp to each joint. Since I'm not using the track for power, I don't find it necessary to clamp both rails. I do have cold and snowy weather here in New Hampshire, but for the most part, the cold, frost, and ice have less effect on the track than does the hot sun. I prefer to have the track floating, because even ladder framing can become out of alignment from frost. Making track geometry adjustments to floating track is as easy as lifting and repositioning the stone.

@@RockwallCanyonRR Thanks for sharing your process. I'm in the beginning stages and happy to hear that floating in/on ballast, of various sizes during the build-up works. The tips about rail-clamps also much appreciated - I have been contemplating how much/when/where to leverage them. And I can appreciate how a bed of crushed rock is easier to re-align vs permanently attachment to a substructure too, another good tip, thank you.

Thanks Duke! Oh yes, I'm actually aware of the brass tube repair but was warned that the 44T motor block is a little tighter and may require removing some plastic to allow clearance for the sleeves to fit and still allow the gears to mesh properly. I already have the tube, so i'm going to give it a try anyways to solve this once and for all. Lol

Hi Duke, so I gave it a try last night and it worked out pretty well! No issues with the sleeve rubbing on the motorblock and the surging is almost gone entirely. I do have one axle with marginal gearing that are nearly worn out but still working. Another axle is still wobbling pretty heavily, but works. Ran for about 4 hours today!

@@RockwallCanyonRR I've had really great results from the way I sleeve mine using a small arbor press to get them straight and they run nice. I can send you picts through email or FB if you wish. I cut the brass on my small lathe to fit. A drill press would work in place of the arbor press.

Thanks! On the ground level it's just by eye. I really lucked out with the patched siding where the rock was busted up. I never had to trim a single rail to make it fit! As to my elevated track...the spacing is that of a crossover of USA Trains #6 switches. That way I can add crossovers near the intermediate stations for more ops options!

Excellent choice! The Sd40-2 will require LGB R3 as an absolute minimum. With R3 it requires coupler adaptors to work. USA 10ft diameter would my minimum, and LGB R5 would be even better. If you cannot go larger than R3, it may be wise to stick with the LGB brand locomotives since they are designed to work on the tightest curves without performance side-effects.

@@RockwallCanyonRR outstanding answers. I will start rooting around for those Part Numbers. I work best with Part Numbers. That said this engine is AMAZING! First the price. I bought it at the NMRA Convention here in Dallas TX for a very fair price: $411.00. This engine is upwards of $435.00 and that would not even have shipping which would push it to $460.00 in some cases. Next is the detail. Wow! Really amazing. I love the huge three axel trucks. Last it is what I have wanted for many years. If you take a look at my tiny garden train layout it will take some planning to get her in there. My little layout was needing an expansion so this is the perfect reason to make it even bigger! Anyway I hope to do an "unboxing" and test drive soon.

@VictorianMaid99 That was a great buy on the SD40! Looking forward to seeing what you do with the layout!

@VictorianMaid99 I typically think LGB track is much better, but USA Trains provides this 10ft diameter curve size which falls between LGB R3 and LGB R5 curves. It's cheaper and may fit your space better than LGB R5. USA Trains track: R81700 10ft diameter curves R81720 switches R81725 switches

@@RockwallCanyonRR I think you are correct about LGB Track. It holds up better outdoors

Absolutely! You do have to be careful with some of the vintage New Bright trains as some of them are close, but not quite the same gauge as G scale. That said, they are quite popular with garden train folks. I'm really not sure how well they hold up on layouts with grades or longer trains. One of the issues they found with the older Bachamann Big Haulers (when used beyond the Christmas tree loop)...the motors would get hot and soften the motor mounts which then caused the gears to grind. I would say, if you approach with reasonable expectations you'll have good results. As to "vintage" quite a few of my "garden-grade" models such as Aristo craft diesels and cars are 30 years old and going strong. Even my USA trains GP9s are over 20 years old! I have LGB track and ties that have been outside well over 30 years.

@@RockwallCanyonRR All the more reason I won't use Plastic track outside because it's not UV resistant and would melt in the sun like a hot fudge sundae. as for New Bright rolling stock (and this even applies to their christmas counterparts) hit them with some UV clear coat and change the plastic trucks to those of metal with knuckle couplers. though with the engines that would take more than just UV clearcoat as the motor and gears would need moisture protection (Epoxy I think?) but I'm ditching the 6 C cell batteries that take to power them as I'm going with a single 7.4 volt cam corder battery with a charger. I may include Rail pro as well. (I'd be surprised if it can find images of New Bright and other 80/90's engines).

Thanks for watching! I've been enjoying your channel for awhile now! As to train control...I've been an Airwire guy right from when they first came out 20 years ago...much of it is still working great, and its all still compatible with even their newest items. I also use Railboss4+ on my passenger trains (and Thomas equipment) since this system has automated station stops. I'm not big into sound, so these systems work great for me...While you can add it to AW or RB, I think RailPro or Revo is probably more practical for sound.

@@RockwallCanyonRR I liked Airwire, easy to install. I never cared about sound till I heard railpro. Growing up with a train going through my back yard, I know what they’re supposed to sound like. No one got it right till raipro. Now I can’t run without it lol your layout is amazing, where are you located?

@@TheeFishGuy I completely agree on the Railpro sound quality! I used to work as a Trainman on a scenic railroad so my ears are particularly tuned as well! I admit they're getting very close! The horns and engine sounds are truly the best I've heard. Next they need to figure a way to configure the engine rev and motor whine to the actual current load on the decoder. Love to hear those 1st gen EMDs rev up and then down just as the traction motors start whining! I'm located in the seacoast area of New Hampshire. Where are you located?

@@RockwallCanyonRR I’m in north east Ohio. As per the notch up and such, if you set the load pertaining to how many cars you’re pulling it gets pretty close!

@@TheeFishGuy ohh I wasn't aware of that?? I still have new AW boards to install...I'm going to pretend that feature doesn't exist yet ;););)