Hi Michelle, each roof shape and type have there own advantages and disadvantages depending on what you need the roof to do.

Thanks Mate, Great to hear!

Thanks Neil, Its great to hear that you are geting some use out of these videos.

Thanks Mate, I'm glad it was helpful.

Thanks Mate, I'm glad you like it.

Hi JMS, so it would depend on the pitch of the roof. So let's assume a 25-degree pitch. So 0.190 / Cos 25 = 0.209. So the Ridge would need to be at least 0.209mm wide and a minimum of 19mm thick. The length is not really an issue as you can join the ridge kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i7hgYMR00ay-YYU.html So you will probably have to use something around 240 wide x 19mm thick and maybe need a couple of joins. Hope this helps

Hi Mate, I don't know off any plans however I do have a few more videos that may help if you haven't seen them before. This playlist has the Gable Roof pattern rafter in it which will help you work out the lengths required. kzfaq.info/sun/PLHFT_d-5EhN69uEyQtjFk5l5xo8_kgeQL This playlist goes into the angles however it is for a Hip roof so you would only need the Plumb and Level Bevel common rafter for the Gable Roof. there are a few different methods of getting these angle that I show so just use the one that you think works best for you. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i76bitx_yLSxZ5s.html This playlist goes into the way to work out the amount and length of the members that you will need: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jr2Ai62YudOocn0.html As for the sizes of the members required you really need to refer to your local standards or use a manufacturers set of span tables or an online tool like this one www.hyne.com.au/knowledge-centre/planning-tools/timber-design-software Hope all this helps

Hi Brett, thanks, I'm glad you think that because I am a teacher.

Hi Edward, thanks for your comment, however, I have to correct you on a couple of points. Firstly Purlins are required whenever your rafter spans further than it' maximum permissible span in AS 1684 Residential Timber Framed Construction. However, I agree that there are situations where increasing the size of the rafter and therefore it's span would be more economical than the time and materials required for Purlins, Struts and supporting beams. Secondly and again according to AS1684 Residential Timber Framed Construction, Collar ties are required on ALL coupled roofs whether they have a ceiling or not, furthermore, if you have more than one row of Purlins you can actually end up with multiple runs of Collar Ties (Appendix I). Without knowing where you are from it is hard to know what your local requirements are but these are the requirements for Australia as per the Standard. Hope this helps

Thanks for your comments. I live in Arizona where we use the International Residential Code.

If you live in Arizona mate then why are you commenting like you know how a roof should be framed in Australia? Bet you didn’t even know Australia has different building codes for both non-cyclonic and cyclonic regions....Arrogance and stupidity at its finest, good job mate, well done.

Also you clearly have no idea of how timber span tables work if you are using 4x2 rafters which is the most common size of rafters used in Australia and what collar ties actually achieve.

Thanks Alex, Glad you like it.

It is held by the outriggers that counter lever over the Gable wall.They are then strengthened when the roof battens come over the top and the fascia attached at the bottom helps as well

Hi I usually just end nail through the rafter and then skew on to the top plate, however trip-l-grips would do a better job.As to extending the ridge this document may help mikestrade.sydneyinstitute.wikispaces.net/file/view/Basic+Roof+Part+2+-+pages+27+to+46.pdf

Hi Mate, You can remove the ceiling joists but you will need to leave the Collar ties in place

Hi Allen That would be the Hanging Beam, it is usually a bit thicker than the ridge.

The issue with trusses is that they have to be designed by an engineer if you want to use them in a house or anything that you are going to put through council really. If your just doing a chookshed or a dog house then making your own trusses is the way to go. Hope this helps.

Hi Mark If dividing by 2 doesn't make the measurement small enough to fit on the square then divide both numbers by 3 or even 4 until they both fit. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/erBjZ62psMDHdYU.html Hope this helps

Thank you! That makes perfect sense now. I'm currently going through my RPL in carpentry so your videos have been great

Hi, Nick, I have a playlist that goes through most of this for Gable roofing. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l5aDhpud3NfKZ5s.html

Thanks David

Hi Nelson, I'm not exactaly sure what you are asking however if you are saying that your outriggers are going to be 2x4s and your rafters are 2x6 then you would have to position the outriggers on the lower side of the rafters so they will contact the verge plate and secure the plate to them. Hope this helps.

Hi Josif As with all cantilevers, it usually extends 1/3 the distance that it is supported.

Hi Mate, It is usually a two person job but the rafters, once nailed at the birdsmouth, can be rested against each other while you slip the ridge up from underneath.

Hi Mark, no not really as it differs depending on the materials and the size of the rafters. Using a Ridge beam won't help as the Purlins is there to support the rafters where they can't span the required distance. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/etCDqdZl1d6yYJc.html However, if you increase the size of the rafter so it can span the required distance then you will not need a Purlin. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jp2Veptpq9aweWQ.html Hope this helps

Ah ok, that makes sense. I love watching your videos, very informative and easy to understand. Thanks for the reply

Thanks, Mark, Glad I could help.

LindazVideos Hi Linda A truss roof will give you a lot of storage space however, depending on the size of the roof, there will be no room to move around because of the trusses This Video might give you some idea of what a truss roof will look like. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hpqZaJup09ytcXU.html An attic truss would give you a lot more usable space It might be worth talking to your contractor about how he plans to give you the storage you require before you order. Its hard to comment with out seeing the whole picture but I hope this helps

Hi Mate, as you are building what they call a "Non- Coupled Roof" collar ties are not required.

Buildsum thankyou for your reply I was just concerned about downward Forse and trying to stop the outer walls from pushing out . Just in relation to your tention and compression video on trusses . Thanks again .. shed is coming along nicely by the way

If it is a gable roof you can beef up the size of the Ridge and turn it into a ridge beam and then prop it on the Gable Wall so it takes some of the load off the side walls.

Hi Mate, a rule of thumb is only applicable if you are using the same size and strength grade timber on every job as it changes for each size and grade. Purlins need to be spaced so the rafters do not exceed their maximum allowable span and struts must be installed so the purlin doesn't exceed their maximum allowable span. These videos may help:= kzfaq.info/get/bejne/etCDqdZl1d6yYJc.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qdd2f8mWq5aqZaM.html

Hi Richard, Thanks and welcome

Hi Christopher, Yes, of course, it can.

HI Graeme, the ridge size just has to be greater than the plumb cut of the rafter and at least 19mm thick. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bN2BoNmgstrWZ3k.html Hope this helps

Yes it does thank you. Plus the plumb cut of the verge plate too?

Hi Graeme, no AS 1684 only states the plumb cut of the Rafter

ok Thanks again

Hi Mate, I am not aware of any specific ratio however the allowable overhang distance is given in the span tables for the different timbers.

Thanks, Adam, glad you like it.

Hi Damien, all thats different is that the inside leaf replaces that Gable wall in the video and the outriggers are supported on the brick/blocks. Hope this helps.

@@Buildsum Your response is greatly appreciated : ) Quick follow on question please.... Would you ever rest a wooden ridge board (like in your video) on top of the inner leaf gable wall for support (and cement it in)? - I seen videos were the ridge seems to be totally **independent** of the brick/wall gable walls (pikes). So the first rafters on each side, comes up to meet the ridge ***in between**** the two brick/block leafs ****but they absolutely never**** connect to the gables in any way. (I guess this is to stop wind force acting on the roof knocking the gable walls out ) - But then again, I also seen retrofit video (attic conversions) were a H beam replaces the ridge board and ***actually sits*** on the top of the inner leaf and the rafters come up to meet it. (sometimes 3 H beams are used in this scenario one @ ridge 2 @ each side of cavity closers and struts come up vertical from then to hit rafters for support) Can you give a video for these two types of use cases if you ever find time?

Hi Damien, both are acceptable methods. The only problem with supporting a timber ridge on a masonry wall would be the possible moisture transfer so I would make sure that the ridge is wrapped in DPC if you were to use this method. No promises on a videos sorry.

Hi Mate, it doesnt matter as long as you dont exceed the max spacing centres. Yes i would out the outriggers as low as possible to provide extra support to the verge rafter.

@@Buildsum thanks.

Hi Darrell, thanks for your comment, the requirement for purlins is dependent on the span of your rafters. It is often more econominal to increase your rafter size eliminating the need for purlins rather than the time and cost of the purlins, struts and strutting beams.

@@Buildsum Thanks. Inspires curiosity. I've only built smaller structures (and tend towards overbuilding)...but find the engineering behind it a bit fascinating. :)

Hi Mate, sure, as long as you use the correct timber sizes to take the load.

Thanks Abdul

Thanks Mate

Hi Randy. Firstly, Why? I would assume that you want to change the appearance in some way. This could be done by just adding gable to the existing roof rather than building a whole new roof. This would depend on what you want from the end result. You could use this Scotch Valley technique to create a Gable end over a Hipped end

the problem I'm having is the ceiling is around a foot from the actual roof and I don't know alot about this kinda stuff but I can't keep my home cool in the summer or warm in the winter. any ideas?

So the house has no room to breathe and roof is tin. it's a very old trailer house. just kinda done with me and my family suffering all the time

I'm sure u know what kinda roof I'm talking about. it's like a dome and the metal is thin and it has no plywood at all. just kinda sitting there. I'm not a rich man and I would appreciate any idea on what I can do to help keep my home cool and warm

Hi Randy, Yes i get the picture now. The first thing i would look at is Insulation and Ventilation. If the Roof/Ceiling is not insulated then even putting a Gable roof on the building won't stop the heat transfer from the roof space. I would put Insulation batts in first, this may mean that you have to remove the roof sheets. I would also use a reflective insulation blanket between the batts and the Metal and if you can create an air gap that has plenty of ventilation between the metal and the insulation,then that will let the heat disperse outside rather than radiate into your home.

Hi Mate, Conventional refers to the way that the roof is constructed not the type of roof so a Gable roof can be a conventional roof but it can also be a trussed roof.

@@Buildsum thank you 😊

Hi the rule of thumb for any cantilever is that they must be supported to 2/3 of their length and only have 1/3 sticking out.

Always check your local/national building codes. In the US, typically 24", but that can be shorter depending on location and maximum known wind speeds for the area.

@Buildsum This was great, thanks, I have been researching "what should the pitch of a shed roof be?" for a while now, and I think this has helped. You ever tried - Beybigail Nonpareil Breakthrough - (search on google ) ? It is a smashing one off guide for discovering how to create better sheds and improve your woodworking minus the normal expense. Ive heard some super things about it and my cousin got cool results with it.

Thanks Mate

Also how would you have enough room or secure verge planks to the ridge if you're using a 2x4 ridge?

HI Todd, I'm not sure why you would wrap the facia around the verge rafter, it is usually just attached to the outside of the rafter with nails or screws for timber facia and brackets for Metal fascia. The underside is then covered by the eave sheets and the top by the roof finish.

Thanks Davy

Hi Mark, i usually just measure it of the Pattern Rafter, the length from the long point to long point of the verge rafter is equal to the distance along the bottom of the rafter from the plumb cut at the ridge to the start of the level cut of the Birdsmouth. To calculate it you would have to work out the length of the Rafter and then minus the length of the hypotenuse of the Birdsmouth. Hope this helps

@@Buildsum That makes sense. Thanks Buildsum

+Hany Sorial Hi Hany I'm in Australia. Buildsum@gmail.com

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Hi Mate, I can't be 100% certain however there are circumstances where some sizes don't work well with standard member sizes. This means that not only do you get a lot of waste from the process but you also spend extra time and labour cutting members to the required size. Perhaps it is a popular size but just not efficient in using the stock material sizes. Hope this helps.

Hi Jose, i use SketchUp for all my drawings.

Thanks mate

+Tiago Cabral Hi Tiago I use Google SketchUp

Thanks, Mate

Thanks!

Cheers for this, I have been researching "how to build a gable porch overhang" for a while now, and I think this has helped. You ever tried - Beybigail Nonpareil Breakthrough - (search on google ) ? It is a smashing exclusive product for discovering how to create better sheds and improve your woodworking minus the normal expense. Ive heard some amazing things about it and my mate got amazing results with it.

Hi Mate, no not really, you need to have the Ridge in place to build the wall anyway and you need to line the top plates up with the underside of the rafter so that the outriggers will work so it easier to do this once the rafters are in.

If it’s a cathedral/vaulted ceiling then yes it is easier and structurally better to build gable end walls all as one so that you have full length studs to sit your ridge on. Easy if you know how to calculate it all, which doesn’t actually take that long as much as people may argue it does.

This is glorious, I been tryin to find out about "how to frame a gable roof step by step" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you ever come across - Beybigail Nonpareil Breakthrough - (should be on google have a look ) ? It is a good one of a kind product for discovering how to create better sheds and improve your woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some amazing things about it and my neighbour got amazing results with it.

Just wonderful, I been tryin to find out about "sloped roof construction diagram" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you heard people talk about - Beybigail Nonpareil Breakthrough - (do a google search ) ? It is a good one off product for discovering how to create better sheds and improve your woodworking minus the normal expense. Ive heard some amazing things about it and my friend got amazing success with it.

Thanks Mate

Hi James, maybe, however the chance of this roof matching your or anyone elses requirements is pretty small and this video is only to show the steps of erecting the roof, the details of how it is constructed is covered in other videos.

Thanks David

Step 1. Stop whinging and buy a book on roof framing.

@@waltermatthau8329 i was but then i thought that chances are the book is worst..............:) no thank you

Wow, clearly you have no idea which books to buy and how much knowledge you can gain from them when it comes to both simple and complex roof framing. Good luck with it all mate!

@@waltermatthau8329 LOOK KAREN.....I'M NOT HERE TO MAKE HISTORY...........TEACHING IS NOT AS SIMPLE AS 123....not any body has what it takes to teach..........you understand me?.........in short: just because someone writes a book about something......that doesn't mean your book is the biggest great thing.????so do me a favor...........chill the fuck down..........understand.

Yeah I can tell by your spelling and punctuation that you’re too lazy to read a book and possibly too stupid to grasp the trigonometry and geometry involved in roof framing...You’re an idiot and extremely ignorant, in more ways than one 👍🙂.