Nice.....I would recommend taking the extractor out when headspacing....then lap the lugs and make sure you are getting even contact on the lugs of the bolt and the lugs on the receiver. Some receivers are way off on the lugs. I have seen them as far as .010 off on one side. Basically if you overlook that step, you are headspaced to one lug only...These step are not done at the factory because all parts are made to fit each other perfectly...In the case of building on a receiver made by company X, a barrel made by company Y and parts from a demilled gun, you have to add a few extra steps to get a perfect fit.

Keep the knowledge coming

Bro thank you so much for showing the steps I hate “guides” that is just people talking can’t wait to. Watch 3 keep up the good work

Everyone is an expert on the internet….(comment ppl) Thanks man for the videos. Glad your back

Keep the content rolling! Loving your channel. Keep it up.

use antisieze or grease for consistent torque on barrel threads, lap the bolt to the receiver, remove extractor

Love your channel and your great work.

HS is computed from the Datum line to case end rim, Datum is a theoretical point the ctg maker sets when he builds a round, normally on the case shoulder on a bottle neck and straight wall case front lip. VERY GOOD VIDEO thanks.

Wish I could get a AK in 30-06, since it's one of the only western cartridges you can get in steel.

As you remove material from the barrel shoulder, and an equal amount from barrel face, but have not reamed chamber , how do you know you're not getting false headspace reading by the head space gauge bottoming out in what is now a short chamber?

I’d lap them lugs so that they match the bolt.

Good job!

I do not have a lathe Hopefully whatever kit I get is good

Very well made video man keep it up.

If there’s still a gap, why would cutting in the extractor make a difference?

Does the barrel need an extractor cut?

I torqued the barrel on my SAR till it was snug on a go gauge. It's the first thing I headspaced that wasn't rollerlocked. I tested it and it shot well. No accuracy test yet, just function. Do you think that's too tight to make it snug on a go gauge?

I understand removing material from the shoulder but what is the purpose of removing the same amount from the face of the barrel?

I have a century Golani build that was built from a Nicaraguan parts kit. Seems like a great rifle but… I’m going to be buying the Galil SAR parts kit and the lowers that are available from ATI, if you don’t mind me asking, where can I find someone like yourself to build this rifle as I do not have all the proper tools ie Lathe etc to complete the build? If I can find a builder I’ll buy the kit and send it off plus $$$ to get it completed. Thank you.

Can the headspace gauges be any 5.56 set of gauges or are there specific Galil arm gauges?

what do you torque the barrel to? ive seen so many different answers online

What kind of Lathe is that?

Kinda of a dumb idea to design an AK like this. Pressing a barrel in ,is so much easier.