Hello Mark! You're very welcome, and I really appreciate your words, thank you. 🤓 I think it is so cool you purchased yours new and have been the only owner. I bet your H3 is grateful to have you! Too many are neglected. Let me know how your fuel pump replacement goes. 😎 I had a really hard time trying to get the lock ring off with one of the shop manual designated tools but the punch and maul worked very well.

FOLLOW-UP, completed the task - Advice from H3 Humper was invaluable. LESSONS LEARNED, for starts, my pump had much more corrosion. *Order a new fuel line prior to attempting this. (GM GENUINE 25896785) *Remove the fuel line at the connector clip from the front of the tank. Destroy the push-in clip, best to replace it anyway. (AC Delco W0133-2284058) *Both the E-Vap and fuel feed had to be broken off of the top of the pump. The easiest option, and needed to retain the integrity of the E-Vap connectors. This one was tricky to disconnect, the E-Vap clip on the pump can stay with the assembly and remove once the tank is out. *Carefully using an air hammer was the last resort to remove the lock ring. It was seized really good, guarantee a garage would not invest the time to remove it and would have recommended a new tank.($).. it takes tenacity! *Once the tank is evacuated, use fuel injector cleaner on a lint-free rag to clean the interior of the tank, it acts like a tack cloth. *Lubricate the large o-ring and pump flange prior to installation. You will need to reduce the friction for installing the new lock ring *I didn't do this last one but would recommend replacing all the 'O-rings' in the E-Vap connectors. My "Gas Cap" alarm light just came on and went off again.... leads me to wonder what is not sealed.

@@markmeisner6837 Happy to know you persevered through all the corrosion! Sounds like wise choices on replacing those other parts, too 😎 and thank you for sharing all your helpful tips! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e5d2psKEq73QqJ8.html check this video out for a cheap smoke tester to check your evap!

Agree.

I totally get what you mean with some jobs seeming too time-consuming. I'm happy to know having the process outlined was inspiring! I appreciate your words. Thank you!

Determination sure is needed on some of these projects. I appreciate your kind words, and I hope your repair is going well so far!

I appreciate your words! I take some breaks from time to time but plan to keep the ball rolling. I'm hoping to grow additional viewer support through my Patreon page. If I could start making some money for providing these videos, it would be a lot easier to make more videos.

Thank you, Tom!

Thank you!

Doing auto work in apartment parking lots always stinks... I'm glad you had OnStar! A bad fuel pump turns these things into very heavy toasters haha.

My pleasure, Tom!

Thank you!

Happy to help, Chris! 😎

Thank you!

Hello, and thank you for your support. I do like your idea of creating an access hole for the pump!

Idaho is pretty rust free!

I'm sorry, can you restate your question? I'm not sure if I understand.

I think I've got the same problem with mine. Every time when I refuel, the engine runs rough and cuts out on the first start up, I try it again the second time and we're good. I thought maybe there's dirt in the tank and when refueling it gets stirred up and clogs the fuel filter.

Hello, and it's my pleasure 🤓 Does your key pull out of the ignition in the "on" or "acc" position? Mine would pull out before the "off" position so I would think the power was off but it really wasn't, leading to a dead battery. For my security flashing light, I used HP Tuners to disable it ( kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pJOdd6aAyLeyeIU.html ). I had experienced unusual starting issues one time due to a loose ground cable below the intake manifold from the engine to the frame, which I would also recommend checking. Do you have any check engine codes?

Hello Roger, the filler neck can be removed without removal of the fuel tank. There is a hose clamp holding the rubber hose onto the tank from the filler. I believe you can remove the hose and then remove the fasteners holding the filler neck on at the gas cap. Then, a person could sand it down and refinish it without risking contamination to the fuel tank. Let me know how your repair goes!

@@H3Humper much appreciated

Maybe try applying some thin lubricant to it and see if that helps. Maybe a little bit of petroleum jelly or something?

Thanks! I think it took about 4.5 hours (including draining the old fuel via the fuel line). I had a hard time getting the lock ring off with an actual lock ring tool but a punch and hammer got it right off!

I had intermittent starting issues which ended up being unrelated to the fuel pump, unfortunately. Let me know if you figure out what is causing yours!

Same did you find the solutions?

Hey there! These assemblies do not have a sock, which seems unusual. The plastic tub on the bottom holds fuel and is also buoyant, so it lifts up higher to match the fuel tank level (I think!). I believe this is what keeps debris resting at the bottom of the tank from getting sucked into the fuel pump. My tank had about a penny's worth of sand in it before I cleaned it out with water and paper towels, and I did not notice any change in fuel economy. 🤓

Thank you :)

The one I have in the videos is a 2006.

Hey there Joel, the fuel tank and sending unit is not too difficult to replace (all the steps are outlined in this video). The most difficult part for me was disconnecting one of the plastic clips (I think it was the breather hose to tank connection).

Hello Bedge, I think the manual says to do so but I left mine on the whole time. I had enough room to sit up just behind the rear axle and could work on everything from under there pretty well 🤓

Hey there, did you happen to resolve your pump issue yet? I tried searching online and couldn't find one for your model year. I imagine one may be able to rebuild the old pump assembly with a new generic pump. Parts are slowly running out for these things, which is very concerning!

@@H3Humper no couldn’t. But now the hummer needs a new transmission so now that’s the bigger problem.

@@klyn1992 Dang... the transmission sure is a big one. How many miles are on your H3? Do you have the "adventure" package?

@@H3Humper I have 141,000 miles on the hummer. No adventure package.

Hello Gabriel 🤓 the H3 does not have an inline fuel filter. The large plastic bottom of the fuel pump assembly helps "filter" and prevent contaminants from entering the fuel pump.

Oh ok good to know thank you

@@gabrieltrevino8212 you're welcome 😎

Hello Jose, the fuel "strainer" is integrated into the assembly and not the traditional sock-style strainer 😎

Ok I really appreciate your response, I can begin with my build. Thanks again

Do you happen to have any check engine codes yet? If you have access to a scantool, can you go to live view mode and tell me what the fuel trim data reads (often called "STFT" or "LTFT" and in a percentage value). My hunch is a small vacuum leak somewhere and a scantool will provide more convincing evidence. To check for a vacuum leak, I made this sketchy ass smoke machine and plug it into the nipple on the intake manifold facing the battery. I pump the intake full of smoke and then wherever it starts leaking out, I know there is a vacuum leak. If it only leaks out of the air filter and no where else, there is no vacuum leak and the issue is elsewhere. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e5d2psKEq73QqJ8.html

@@H3Humper now my engine trembles and I have code 204, 300 463 please help

Hello Aleksei, and thank you! The Delphi fuel pump assembly was $292.79 from RockAuto.com 😎

Hey there, Regis. Thanks for sharing info based on your experiences 🤓 Based on the product description, the smaller components reflect increased efficiency and the Delphi assembly uses different build materials to prolong the life of the pump as well as withstand ethanol added to most fuels nowadays. I personally see Polaris as a reputable manufacturer for powersports and imagine any sourced components would be of high quality. I find the new pump is very quiet, which I really like! It seems as though the white pump housing would indeed float when looking at the design of the assembly. In what way were you able to test buoyancy? The two outer rails have springs on them and the white pump housing can move up and down the slides with pressure against the springs, which leads me to believe it does actually float. 🤔

@@H3Humper the springs are for give in the plastic tank when it's heavy the plastic gives some. The pump bottom stays firm planted at the bottom of tank. I can assure you 100%. No floating......and rhe original pump is quieter. It has a unisia jecs pump. The original pump is also rated for ethanol. The delphi pump has a plastic impeller while the Japanese pump has a cnc machined gear. Side by side the oem pump is quieter and smoother. The delphi has 5/16th from pump to filter housing, oem is 3/8 throughout....the oem sender is made of better materials. Btw...that delphi pump is 98 dollars on amazon. The one that looks like Delhi for 98 is 100 identical down to factory markings on pump. I have the delphi, carter, us motor, and oem...the delphi is ok for a 3.5 or 3.7...in my observation...I would not put it in the 5.3... especially if towing...oem pump is more expensive for a reason and they last over 15 years...oem pressure regulator has brass internals the pressure regulator in the Delhi is 9 dollars...I could go on...5/16th pump outlet vs 3/8 .....