Excellent demonstration thank you so much for sharing

great video

Great insights and workshop. (Is that a poly-urea floor coating?) Thank you for showing the ease, cleanliness, and finesse acquired with the proper tools. Wishing you wellness wherever you are. Kind Regards

After messing with my 12 year old GE washer the last two weeks I learned a lot about how crappy these are made, especially this specific transmission and it's faulty design are, a little google searching finds all the posts and comments all over the web about this notorious POS GE transmission that they knew about since 1995 and have done nothing about. My saga started with a simple minor tub leak, so I decided to buy a new seal and bearing, got those ordered, took the machine apart and found the bottom bearing on the transmission was shot, not wanting to mess with all this plus finding the bearings and parts, I bought a factory reconditioned transmission on Ebay from a big appliance outfit for $128 and a 6 mo warrantee. I got that, put it in, and was putting the whole thing back into the cabinet when I suddenly noticed an 8" long CRACK in the cheap plastic outer tub! $75 later a new one was on my doorstep the next day, the old one was so brittle that just flexing it broke chunks out, Imagine that happening when full of water! I get the whole shebang back in, and with 4 new rubber retainer deals for the tub, new drain hose and went to wash a load, no more leak, but then it wouldn't SPIN, I could get it to spin if I pushed the pully and "jump started" it then the motor would do it. That motor turned free, so the bearings were fine, so I figured the starting capacitor was bad, replaced that $20- same problem! so I figured the stator on the motor maybe had some issue and it was weak, I bought a new in box OEM GE motor on Ebay for $119, but that came damaged in shipping- the aluminum housing was cracked, they issued a full refund, so I ordered another motor from another seller, meanwhile since the stator was intact I took the old motor apart, swopped the aluminum ends onto the other motor and tested it, turned just fine, spun freely, so I put that in, SAME exact problem!!! this new motor wouldn't spin even an EMPTY tub unless I first pushed the pully on it to help the motor start turning. So that was the last straw on this POS, best I can figure is the transmission is too tight internally or something and putting too much of a load on the motor (either the old or the new one- same thing happened) which gets VERY hot- you cant even briefly touch the metal case of the motor after just one small "light" wash cycle. It otherwise agitates just fine. I bought a new machine, told the transmission seller I wanted to return that item as it appears defective, so I got my money refunded on that, and I calncelled the other motor and got a refund on that, so far I'm out $177 I can't recover. This machine's transmission design sucks, you get one tub leak and that's pretty much the end of the transmission bearing and probably even the motor, what pisses me off is this exact transmission is notorious for having a defective design, with many people reporting the brake fails, and the bearing fails. Had I read that before last night I'd have junked the thing- no point repairing a defective design that will have the same problems again.

REPAIR was successful.... The major difficulty I had was getting the Hub Nut off, Yes I had the spanner wrench and turning the correct way.... Many people have this problem..... Easy solution for me was just drill many holes in the nut, ( being careful not to drill to far)..... The nut is soft metal and very easy to drill and then I use a cold chisel to take the nut off in pieces.. Not a hard task.. the rest is just nuts and bolts, just follow Video... ~"ATTENTION"~ I made 1 mistake, here it is so you will avoid doing the same....... Putting things back together I did use a new Hub Seal, but when I was done I looked underneath while it was filling up and agitating, I seen water dripping down the shaft... :( I took the inner tub back out to check and see what was going on and remove the tub seal..........I looked at the top of the hub bearing (I called it a sleeve) something didn't look right so I took my finger and picked at it... There was two small circular very thin springs that came out of the old falling apart Hub Seal...... They were around the shaft between the hub bearing (sleeve) and shaft hard to see.. Remove.,,,,Reassemble it works great now... Hope this Helps someone......

Can you answer me a few questions about the stackable washer dryer he Sells?

Good video

There is absolutely nothing easy about this job. I fix appliances like this for a living and I have one later today and I know from experience it’s a SOB to do in a real life situation. In real life your not in an empty room, with all the tools known to man right next to you and a floor you don’t have to worry about scratching. It would be more realistic if you were working inside a closet with a door blocking you pulling it out.

My 5-7 yr old washer squeaks horribly during agitation only. It's fine during the rest of the cycle. I've noticed a drop or two of water... is the squeak from a wet belt? Any thoughts? Thanks for a great video.

Hi, I’m replacing a transmission for work, in a hot point washer, which I believe is still the same as the one you’re showing. I’m looking everywhere and I cannot find the part number for that spanner wrench. Do you have the part number by chance?

do u have to replace the inner tub with a new transmission or it won’t work correctly

the best

I repair this tramisions for a living here in Puerto Rico , change the oil seals the bearing and the brake and also change the washer seal , theres a lot of money to it

Great video! Im taking my washing machine apart right now after finding a minor leak that seems to be coming from the middle. I am hoping it can be an easy tube seal or O-ring/washer replacement and not the whole transmission. My spanner wrench comes in tomorrow and I'm hoping that when I get the spanner wrench I can get the retaining nut off and get the whole thing taken apart I will be able to easily tell which part needs to be replaced which is causing the leak. The transmission might be ok I think because the spinning seems to be fine and no crazy noises i.e. whining. so im hoping the transmission is ok. I guess what im asking is: will it likely be the tub seal on the interior or the washer on the exterior then which needs replacing? Or maybe the split ring?mGE Model Number GTWN3000M2WS. Once i get it taken all the way apart I'm hoping it will be easy to identify which part is broken and can be cheaply and easily replaced. Any tips on how to identify the broken part other than an obvious crack on the seal? Thanks!

How to replace the brand name Inqlis Citation washer’s shaft.

My GE washer needed the seal ,, when I took the old seal out noticed it fit snug , when installed the new one fits loose it doesn’t seal completely there’s a gap between the basket and the seal I used the WH02X10383 seal it’s the one that my model calls for, any suggestions? Thanks in advance

I think you forgot to reinstall the 4 black rubber tub mounting straps back onto the tub, at the top.

you can replace the bearing on the lower part of the transmission it's by the brake assembly it's not easy but it's doable.

Me also tecnishion I want to do work with you

Did you really say “It’s a really easy job”? I’d hate to see what a hard job is!

How do you tell if the transmission is bad my ge is acting funny and I think it could be it what it does is when its washing the basket spins about half a turn stops then spins then stops and the agitator doesn't move when its doing this so I don't know if that's the way it works or if the agitator is supposed to goes back and forth

The transmission is not hard to repair, if you have tools/workshop. A lot cheaper than a transmission/brake assy.

EZ job?!

My Agitator is a BITCH & REFUSES To Come OFF?!! I've Tried EVERYTHING... WHY Won't It Come OFF?!!

EASY? LOL